I may be over-simplifying things, but while Emerson may have built the dishwashers, the design and specs were still all from Hobart until Whirlpool came in, and even then Whirlpool made no major/visible changes until production began on the series 23 machines.

Steve T. posted a link to that same injunction document quite some time ago, and it was very informative.  I happen to own two InSinkErator Classic Supreme dishwashers (one is my daily driver, the other a functional spare) which are clones of KA series 22 machines.  Part of the agreement allowing Emerson to put the ISE badge (or any others) on KA machines required them to come up with a different lock/latching system so a lower priced ISE wouldn't look identical to a KA.  $250K later, Emerson had a design for a new latch with a side-to-side movement instead of the KA type that flipped up and down.  I've come to prefer that design over KA's after using my ISE for the past couple of years.

If you want a "true" Hobart machine, you should be looking for a series 20 or older.  Those will have the non-reversing motor that was dropped starting with series 21 machines, which used reversing motors made by Emerson.  Personally, I'd pursue a series 18 or 20 (I want the option of a heated dry cycle which the 19's don't have) because they employ a separate wash arm for the upper rack which facilitates carefree loading.  Series 17, 16 and 15 have just the single 4-way Hydrosweep wash arm and as a result loading the lower rack will sometimes require a strategy.  If you're OK with a single wash arm, I suggest not going for anything older than a series 15.  Prior to that, the capacities were smaller, rack design was still based on the earliest KA home models, and there were fewer options.  As was stated further upthread, set your sights on a Superba model for the most options and visual appeal.

It shouldn't matter much how you transport the machine, but if you're going to lay it on its back or side, remove the racks first.

Since it's a portable, IIRC the coupler for the faucet connection is at the top rear on these machines.  If you lay the machine on its back, you may want to pull the hoses out so the coupler isn't down by the floor of the vehicle, otherwise you may have some leakage if there's any water sitting in the pump.

After examining the components in the machine's sump area and before you attempt to run it, dump maybe 1/2 gallon of very hot water (but not boiling) into the sump area and let it stand for a while to soften up the rubber pump seal.  This is standard operating procedure with a machine that has been sitting idle for a long period.  If you see any drips under the machine when you do this, make sure they're not getting inside the motor or the presence of water will short it out.  With use, a small leak will often seal itself back up.  Just be vigilant in the beginning.

I don't know if BKF is recommended, but someone else here can perhaps advise on that.  I used Lemishine (Target carries it) to clean the interior and freshen up my In-Sink-Erator (KA series 22 clone) once in a while.

Depending on the softness/hardness of your water supply, you may need to include a phosphate additive with your detergent.  Bubble Bandit is one brand of automatic dishwasher detergent that still contains phosphates, or you can invest in a big tub of STPP to supplement in whatever dosage provides satisfactory results.

Again, since your machine has only the lower wash arm, you'll need to be careful about how you load the bottom rack to make sure no large items like pots prevent the spray from reaching the top rack.  A single pot probably won't be a big deal, but if you have a few of them to wash, they could effectively block the spray and compromise cleaning of contents on the top rack.

You're right -- it's an 18 series so you have the upper and lower rack wash arms as well as the shower from the top.

Definitely don't dump any oil into it!

I'm pretty sure the bottom should be exposed just like with a built-in.

On the Hydrosweep lower arm could be worn out or broke.  The thudding you heard was likely the wash arm jumping up and hitting the lower rack. When this happens the majority of the water is deflected back into the wash tank never reaching the arms.   Also any water spraying from the lower arm cleans only part of the rack as it won't turn.  My mother's KDP 20 developed this issue.  A new lower wash arm should fix it, it did in her machine.

WK78 

You're making excellent progress, and it's clear you're energized over restoring your Superba to proper working order.

I have always found loading a two-armed KA to be fairly intuitive.  On the lower rack, large plates will only fit in the front-to-rear formation on the left side and everything else can go pretty much wherever.

I'm still having a time of it with getting a loading routine down for my recently acquired Miele.  I suppose if I just start to approach it like a well-disciplined German, it will come to me.

Here's a shot of the results in my ISE series 22 clone that was loaded down after having guests for dinner:

Here's a different load where it was a total free-for-all on the top rack:

I've completely fallen in love with this machine LOL... I'm single, live in a studio apartment and have managed to use this guy over 3 times a day since I fixed the wash arm. Just trying to figure out how to fill the racks with all my stuff.

It holds all the sizes of my cutting boards.

From AutomaticWasher.org

Curious question: How many of you wash your enameled cast iron in the dishwasher?

From AutomaticWasher.org

I really like how deep the Top rack can get :-)

From AutomaticWasher.org

I'm trying to decide what cleans better, cascade powder or my melaleuca detergent.

I just need the constant rinse arm to arrive and this machine will be complete.

I do appreciate all the help, information and support you guys gave. I wouldn't have found this one or tried this if it weren't for the wealth of knowledge on this forum! :-) On a side note, SteveT, if you happen to see this, I sent an email your way (the one listed on your profile), I had a few questions for ya if you have a moment.

The next on my find list is a Miele Futura Diamond. I'm hoping to build a house soon when Lot prices come down and after looking at my storage unit the other day, it seems I am building my house from the inside out.

I wash enameled cast iron in the dishwasher without any hesitation.

Three loads a day for a single guy?  You sound like a normal, healthy male to me.  ;-)

Heh you should see what I can accomplish when I'm on a day off :P

How do you keep the cast iron rims from rusting?

Oh, and I just learned something... I can't use liquid detergent in this machine because it leaks out of the cups when you close the door... :/ I was looking at the differences between my machines and noticed the cup on the edgestar had a seal on it.. Then I noticed I hadn't started the KA yet and opened the door and saw that all the soap leaked out ... :/ Oh well lol... Guess that solves the questions I had about what detergent to use.

I don't own any cast iron cookware that has lids, if that's what you meant.  I have a Copco enameled casserole dish that belonged to my mom.  Putting it through the dishwasher hasn't harmed it at all.

Some folks have had luck rebuilding these DDs, they should also be mounted upside down to prevent short and fire hazards, this way if they ever leak in the future the detergent laden water will not leak on live electrical parts.

The KA DW for sale NH is a KDS-16, built between 1968 and 1970, these are my favorite one arm KA DWs, you have to watch your loading because of the lack of an upper wash arm.

That's a great idea!  I never would have thought of that.  I guess I always thought they had to go in exactly as they were designed.  When I read this post about the DD I wondered why they would design them that way but never thought about turning it around.

The other thing I always wondered is why they didn't just use a solenoid to control the DD doors like they did in the earlier models?  Wouldn't that be less complicated than the bimetal solution?

WP turned them upside-down on the KD22 models after they reviewed how many fires and other problems KA had had in the past decade or so when they bought out KA, I have done the same thing on many machines that I have worked on or rebuilt and resold.

The bi-metal openers for the DDs are much cheaper and probably more reliable than a solenoid, also solenoids can be NOISY Buzz y etc. The DUMB thing that KA did with their bi-metal DD openers was wiring them in series with the main motor instead of the water heater element.

They did this because at the time KA started using BMO for their DDs they were building KD-17 series DWs and only the TOL DW had heaters. Using the main motor as a load dose not provide a constant load, so when the main wash filter was dirty the DD BMs would not open the dispenser doors and then cleaning performance really went to hell fast.

WP also corrected this design problem on the KD-23 series.

John L.

Is the heating element on the whole cycle on the 17-22 series? Otherwise you couldn't open the BM's.

Hi Jon, KA 17 and 18 series DWs did not have water heating elements on any but the TOL models, although they could have used the dry heater if they wanted.

The water heater element would not need to be on for the whole cycle for it to be used to open the DD, the timer is clever enough to just turn on the heater for 60 seconds while sending the heaters load current through the DD BM it wants to open.