Thread Number: 48427
New Speed Queen Top Loader; what re rinse cycle Temp. options?
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Post# 701710   9/7/2013 at 08:55 (1,692 days old) by Pumice (Wisconsin)        

I plan to buy a new Speed Queen Top Loader. I searched around on their website but can't find mention of the Rinse Temp. setting options . What is the Rinse temperature for Wash temperature: Warm, Hot, Cold ?

Only the Wash Temp. setting options has a Knob : Cold, Warm, Hot.

The model is the AWN542

OR below Commercial Top Loader

Post# 701711 , Reply# 1   9/7/2013 at 09:08 (1,692 days old) by golittlesport (California)        

all rinses are cold

Post# 701737 , Reply# 2   9/7/2013 at 11:43 (1,692 days old) by Pumice (Wisconsin)        

Is there a way to easily modify the Rinse to provide Hot or Warm rinse?

Post# 701738 , Reply# 3   9/7/2013 at 11:49 (1,692 days old) by nmassman44 (Boston North Shore Massachusetts)        

nmassman44's profile picture
Unfortunately no, or not that I know of. What you see is what you get. Unless you reverse your inlets and you will get a hot rinse and cold will be hot and hot will be cold kinda thing.

Post# 701755 , Reply# 4   9/7/2013 at 13:14 (1,692 days old) by thefixer (USA)        

This mod would make rinse temp same as wash temp.

Post# 701759 , Reply# 5   9/7/2013 at 13:20 (1,692 days old) by JeffG ()        

FYI according to Alliance the last SQ TL model with a warm rinse option is the AWS75, circa 2006/07. If you can find one of these older models it's the easiest solution.

We missed it by several months and wound up with its successor, an AWS76, cold water rinse only. So we installed a splitter on the water taps and all is well. We never rinse in cold water, strictly hot/warm or warm/warm loads in our house.

thefixer: Do you have a similar hack, but instead to make cold water always warm? It would allow us to get rid of the extra plumbing behind the washer. :)

This post was last edited 09/07/2013 at 14:34
Post# 701782 , Reply# 6   9/7/2013 at 15:04 (1,692 days old) by Pumice (Wisconsin)        

So easiest would be to connect HOT Water supply pipe to the COLD water inlet of the machine and the COLD water supply pipe to the HOT water inlet of the machine. This would give:

WARM wash + HOT rinse
HOT wash + HOT rinse
No COLD wash possible.

Have I got it right?

Post# 701783 , Reply# 7   9/7/2013 at 15:11 (1,692 days old) by thefixer (USA)        

No, you would have only hot rinse, hot wash when set to cold, cold wash when set to hot, and warm wash when set to warm.

Post# 701803 , Reply# 8   9/7/2013 at 16:28 (1,692 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

That seems like s simple enough hack to do. If you want a warm rinse all you have to do is turn the water temp knob to warm during the spin between wash and 1st rinse.

Post# 701808 , Reply# 9   9/7/2013 at 16:43 (1,692 days old) by pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)        

pierreandreply4's profile picture
or for a warm rinse you set it back after the first spin for a warm fill rinse before its start filling with cold water reset to the main wash so your washer fill with warm water then go back to the rinse portion of the cycle so the washer rinse and do the final spin

Post# 701816 , Reply# 10   9/7/2013 at 17:29 (1,692 days old) by washer111 ()        
Reversing Taps:

Here's my understanding:

On Dial Setting -> Actual Result
HOT -> Cold
Warm -> Warm*
COLD -> Hot

As the rinse is cold inlet, you would get a hot rinse. As for the *, I used that to indicate that you would get a HOTTER Warm wash, as the SpeedQueen has flow restriction on "HOT" to make a 40% Hot 60% Cold Wash. Now, you would get 60% Hot, 40% cold, which is much better.

Hot rinses are ultimately better if you use Fabric Softener, Starches or really bubbly detergent on a frequent basis (Helps to prevent excessive buildup in the last rinse. Truly a "Self-Cleaning" washer!). Perhaps it isn't so good for your clothes, though.

As for mixing the water, you could run two lines off the hot tap, and have a water valve fitted onto the merging point between Hot/Cold to control how much hot the cold line gets. Just remember to turn that off after each use, to prevent mixing of your Hot and Cold supplies.

Post# 701821 , Reply# 11   9/7/2013 at 17:49 (1,692 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
Wiring Hack

mrb627's profile picture
If you chose to go the wiring modification route, the temperature for rinse will always be the same as the wash temp. So, basically, once your machine starts washing, reset the temp knob to the desired rinse temp and your done. No need to run back at the end of the first spin and reset the timer or fool with any hoses. It is the best solution in my opinion.


Post# 701829 , Reply# 12   9/7/2013 at 18:37 (1,691 days old) by Pumice (Wisconsin)        

To Malcolm
So with the electrical hack, I can get:

Cold Wash + Cold Rinse
Warm Wash + Warm Rinse
Hot wash + Hot Rinse

Can I get Hot Wash + Warm Rinse?

I am leaning towards this solution but does this adversely affect the reliability of the machine, because I plan on sending it overseas after a few months to mom's house in Ceylon. There are no Top Loader American style Agitator machines available there; I spent weeks searching for one.

Post# 701833 , Reply# 13   9/7/2013 at 19:00 (1,691 days old) by pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)        
i think the only way you could get a hotwash warm rinse woul

pierreandreply4's profile picture
i think the only way you could get a hot wash + warm rinse would be for you to look into buying a vintage machine or earlier models thats still have that option as not much washer has that option anymore sadly like this washer or earlier speed queen models that have 5 temp from cold to hot water wash including warm rinse credit to the original picture taker for the pic i am using

Post# 701850 , Reply# 14   9/7/2013 at 20:35 (1,691 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
Warm Rinse ?

combo52's profile picture

Current SQ TL washers use a 30/70 inlet valve that gives 30% hot water when both coils are energized.


Unless you have free solar heated hot water a warm rinse in any washer and especially a TL washer wastes far too much energy [ Global Warming Is Real ] A warm rinse also allows bacteria etc to thrive in your clean laundry and in the washer itself. It is also harder to rinse out detergent in warm or hot water, there is a reason that NO detergent manufacturer OR washer manufacturer recommends ANYTHING except a COLD rinse for ALL laundry loads.

Post# 701882 , Reply# 15   9/7/2013 at 22:19 (1,691 days old) by JeffG ()        

John, you drank the Kool-Aid. Open the lid of any top loading SQ washer made between 1958 and 1989 and tell us what it directs for a rinse temperature for cottons.

95% of what we own is cotton and cold water rinses SUCK for cotton. And some people wonder why their towels stink!

Post# 701883 , Reply# 16   9/7/2013 at 22:29 (1,691 days old) by pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)        
my duet washer

pierreandreply4's profile picture
My duet washer i have a whirlpool duet washer thats all cold rinse and i notice because of the all cold rinse that my dryer takes longer drying a load when its rinse in cold water and if you look credit to gansky1 for the pic i am using look at the temp button you will see that it has a wam rinse option with a hot water wash as well as a warm wash warm rinse

Post# 701888 , Reply# 17   9/7/2013 at 22:48 (1,691 days old) by washer111 ()        

Whilst it may hurt the environment, Warm rinses probably are better for clothing items that are especially prone to shrinkage (if washing in Warm or Hot). There is less temperature change between the Wash and Rinse.

And lets face it, mould will grow in your washer regardless of wash/rinse temperature (within reason, of course) if you don't care for your machine. Thats a fact of life, unfortunately.

Post# 701893 , Reply# 18   9/7/2013 at 22:59 (1,691 days old) by thefixer (USA)        

If instead of doing the mod I showed, you could tap into terminal R of the timer which is pin 18 of the timer connector (normally not connected to anything) and jump that to pin 3 of the temp switch, you would always have a warm rinse and normal function of the wash temp as per temp switch setting.

In wash cycle, timer terminal P connects to terminal H and V connects to W. In rinse cycle, P connects to V and V connects to R (R not normally used).

Post# 701900 , Reply# 19   9/7/2013 at 23:40 (1,691 days old) by JeffG ()        

thefixer: THANK YOU. About how long of a jump is it from the timer connector to the temp switch?

Post# 701937 , Reply# 20   9/8/2013 at 08:10 (1,691 days old) by thefixer (USA)        

Looks like a couple feet of wire should do it. Timer is on right side of panel, temp switch on left. Iv'e not done this mod. As far as I know, there is no wire connected to terminal R so you would have to add one. If your handy, this should be no big deal.

Post# 701979 , Reply# 21   9/8/2013 at 11:48 (1,691 days old) by Pumice (Wisconsin)        

To the fixer

Does this look right; connecting a lead from Terminal R (of timer) to Pin 3 of Temperature?

Post# 702004 , Reply# 22   9/8/2013 at 12:43 (1,691 days old) by thefixer (USA)        

Yes, that would be without doing the other mod. You can buy individual terminals for the timer connector. Speed Queen part number 00188. You might want to confirm that terminal V connects to terminal R when timer is in rinse mode. According to wiring diagram and timer chart, it does.

Post# 702022 , Reply# 23   9/8/2013 at 13:42 (1,691 days old) by JeffG ()        

thefixer: fantastic info. can you do us a favor and never, ever, EVER leave this forum? :)

EDIT: Just found the part online. They want $0.61 for the terminal and $18.50 for shipping lol.

This post was last edited 09/08/2013 at 14:02
Post# 807075 , Reply# 24   2/1/2015 at 13:47 (1,180 days old) by Pendelton ()        
Here's how to modify a SpeedQueen AWN542 to get a warm r

Rinse temperature modification instructions for the Speed Queen AWN542

These directions were written for the Speed Queen AWN542SP assuming the person doing the repair is standing in front of the machine at the time of the repair. Time needed is fifteen minutes or less.

1. PULL THE PLUG! Cut any electrical connection to the washer before you do anything else.

2. Using a ¼ inch socket, remove the 3 screws at the top and behind the console. You only need to remove 3 screws; one in the middle and one at each end. All three screws are vertical. Remember to turn them to the LEFT to loosen and RIGHT to tighten. (When you’re done and buttoning up, tighten these screws VERY gently. When starting them into the hole it helps to gently rock the console back and forth just a bit to help the screws find their grooves.)
Once the screws are removed and the console is loose, very gently roll the top of the console back towards you paying very close attention to any strain on the wires inside. Don’t ever place a strain on any wires.

3. Use the pliers to pull the Black/Pink wire off of terminal #4 then tape it securely with electrical tape, covering it so that it can never come in contact with any metal surface. Fold it over and tape it again to be sure. Use a very small electrical zip tie to secure the tape so that it will never come loose.

4. Locate the grey wire, which you will notice goes down the thru-hole to the motor with the rest of the wires. When you cut the grey wire, cut it far enough to your right so that you leave the grey wire leading up out of the thru-hole long enough that it has plenty of slack when it attaches to terminal #4 in order to avoid ever having a strain on it which could cause you much grief later on. This will leave the grey wire leading from the timer short so add wire to it using a 12 inch piece of either grey or yellow (grey is hard to find so I suggest yellow as there is no other yellow wire in the harness) wire using an 18 gauge insulated butt-splice crimp connector. Strip 3/8 inch of plastic off of each wire for the butt connection.

5. Locate the single grey wire that leads up from the thru-hole and strip ¼ inch of plastic covering off of the end. Twist the wire strands together and insert it into the 18 gauge female connector opening and crimp it, then connect it to terminal 4.

6. Use the pliers to pull the black/blue wire off of terminal L and cut off the connector as close as you can in order to leave the wire as long as possible. Strip 1/4 inch of the plastic cover off and twist the wire strands. Join (twist) the black/blue wire to the grey (or now yellow) wire that leads from the timer mechanism and insert both into the 16 gauge female connector and crimp together. (if you like you can trim some of the extra wire from the 12 inch piece that you added earlier before you join it with the black/blue wire but make sure you don’t cut it too short) Now that the black/blue wire and the grey (or now yellow) wire are joined, connect to L.

This is how it should look when you’re finished –

A. The grey wire that leads up from thru hole is connected to 4.
B. The red wire never moves from terminal 3.
C. The black/pink wire is tapped off securely and out of the way.
D. The black/blue + Grey (or now yellow) wire from timer is connected to L.

You will now have a hot water rinse when you set the wash temp to hot, a warm rinse when set to a warm wash and a cold rinse when set to a cold wash.

Tools and parts you will need:

One female 18 gauge non-insulated push on wire connector
One female 16 gauge non-insulated push on wire connector
One male push on wire connector
One 18 gauge insulated butt connector.
a wire stripper
a wire crimper
a small pair of square nose pliers
a small wire cutter
a 1/4 inch socket and driver
a one foot long piece of grey or yellow insulated 18 gauge stranded insulated wire
a knife or scissors
a very small electrical zip tie to cinch around the end of the taped up back/pink wire to insure the electrical tape never comes loose.
a flashlight or work light and someone to hold it for you
Electrical tape

1. Sometimes wire connectors have hidden ‘burrs’ on them so you should ‘exercise’ the wire connectors before you start by inserting a male connector into the female connector to insure that there are no burrs in the female connector. You’ll only be installing the female connectors onto the terminals but a male is needed for the ‘exercise’. By fitting them together once or twice you’ll remove any potential burrs which will make connecting them to the washers terminals much gentler, greatly lessening the risk of doing any harm to a terminal.

2. Because insulated connectors are a bit more common you might find it easier to find and buy insulated connectors and then use a sharp knife to cut the plastic insulation off. Remember to leave the insulation on the butt connector. High heat connectors are probably the best quality.

3. Using a sharp knife to cut off the plastic wire covering is a very common rookie mistake and a bad idea. (learn from my mistakes) It’s very difficult to strip wire with a knife without cutting some of the copper strands and you don’t want to lose any so make sure you use a good quality wire stripper to cut the plastic wire insulation. Once you cut the plastic, gently pull the cut plastic off with your fingers rather than using the stripper to pull the plastic off because you'll lose far fewer wire strands by using your fingers.

4. If you intend to leave your washer in place for this repair (as I did) you’ll find a mirror very handy to see where the screws are located on the back of the control panel.


Post# 808833 , Reply# 25   2/11/2015 at 19:03 (1,169 days old) by Huebschman (Quebec, CA)        
Rince temp

I read this post diagonally and if someone mentioned it before... sorry ... but do no invert in cold/hot inlet. You'll end up with a flimsy spray rince due to the hot water restrictor since spray rinces are cold (spray rince could already be longer/better than what it is now) and that will make you want to use a 2nd rince.

Post# 808839 , Reply# 26   2/11/2015 at 19:30 (1,169 days old) by rapunzel (Sydney)        

Placing issues in some kind of rational perspective, using the warm rinse option on a domestic washer is a relatively benign action in comparison to uncontrolled breeding, chemical and conventional warfare, poor hygiene and sanitation, disposal of millions of tons of trash into waterways and our oceans daily, poor economic management based on the unsustainable continued growth model etc.. Throw into this mix globalization, which legitimates slave labor and contributes greatly to environmental pollution - the list is inexhaustible.

My Speed Queen does do warm water rinses and I do use them a lot without any personal feelings of guilt whatsoever. Guilt is for Catholics and I renounced that faith a long time ago. BTW, I like the idea of a warmer planet. Evidence supports the scientific view that a warmer planet will be a much greener and fecund planet. Think of it this way, warmer planet = less need for heating. More fun in the sun and more people engaged in outdoor activities. Fewer clothes required resulting in fewer laundry loads and you can extrapolate this rationale ad infinitum.

Post# 808868 , Reply# 27   2/11/2015 at 23:44 (1,169 days old) by washer111 ()        

Just don't let anyone know that as an Australian, (and one in Sydney, at that)...


(Where's the "spoiler" pop-open?)

You have access to a 'relatively abundant*' supply of solar-heated water


*Thats economics talk, seeing as you brought it up. Hot water is technically a scarce resource, after all :P

Unless... You leave the electric boost on all the time as recommended to "reduce the legionella risk" (And technically having it off is breaking the law, if you go by that. Gee, I feel the need for confession coming on again!)

Post# 808966 , Reply# 28   2/12/2015 at 19:18 (1,168 days old) by rapunzel (Sydney)        

I've got gas hot water, but am thinking of geothermal down the road. Apparently I can heat the pool, spa, have central heating/cooling and hot water using that. The solar panels don't do much for my electricity bill. Right now I am still getting the rebate that was introduced under Labor, but that's coming to an end in a year or two and I am not all that keen to spend thousands on more solar panels if it only saves me another fifty or hundred bucks a quarter.

Post# 808989 , Reply# 29   2/12/2015 at 23:17 (1,168 days old) by washer111 ()        
(Off-Topic) - @rapunzel

I have to wonder how cool the ground must be if ground-source cooling actually works... Trouble would be the dehumidification of the air that would annoy me, not necessarily the temperature. 

The idea of being able to heat everything under the sun from geothermal would be great though. I'd sign up to that, since you can cut down a big amount of 'energy' consumption. Would be nice to go swimming in a warm pool on a frigid day, too!


Personally, I feel the solar panels are a bit of a ripoff at the moment. And as more people take up the offer, electricity charges go up (Something has to pay for what people are generating, and "giving back" to the grid, right?).

Several towns around here have reached quota, and there are many furious residents who would have liked to contribute (I mean, we get the most annual, average sunshine on the planet), but couldn't because our power company pulled the plug!


Post# 809097 , Reply# 30   2/13/2015 at 15:12 (1,168 days old) by thefixer (USA)        

"do no invert in cold/hot inlet. You'll end up with a flimsy spray rince due to the hot water restrictor since spray rinces are cold (spray rince could already be longer/better than what it is now) and that will make you want to use a 2nd rince."

The spray function is actually during the spin cycle of the wash cycle, not the rinse cycle although it is a cold water spray regardless of temp switch setting. With the wiring mod, if your temp is set to warm, you would get a warm spray with both hot and cold valves on which would give the highest amount of water for spray. If you want a hot wash and warm rinse, you would need to change the temp switch over to warm directly after the washer has finished filling with hot water in the wash cycle. If you really want a hot rinse, you would then need to switch back to hot sometime between end of spray and beginning of rinse fill.

Post# 927791 , Reply# 31   3/19/2017 at 19:53 (402 days old) by toenail (Texas)        
LWN311SP111TW01 No hot water

I was interested in doing the wiring changes to my SQ but the colors and wiring diagram does not match my machine. I have only cold. I don't think there is even a small amount of hot water. The envioro Natzis did a great job on the machine. I don't use hot very often but when I do I want and need it.

Post# 927834 , Reply# 32   3/19/2017 at 23:18 (402 days old) by chetlaham (United States)        

chetlaham's profile picture
Post a pic of your machines wiring diagram if you need a conversion. :)

If you truly are not getting any hot water in the wash fill your fill valve screens may be clogged. If your not getting any hot water in the rinse, that is normal. All the Speed Queens that I know of fill with tap cold in the rinse cycle.

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