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Thread Number: 49082
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| Post# 710701 10/21/2013 at 23:00 (3,836 days old) by keny (Detroit, Michigan) | ||
I've made some progress with both the washer and dryer. However now I've got more concerns and questions about both machines.
As far as the dryer goes, I got the new drum glides in, the "limit switch" or thermostat on the top of the gas burner area in, and put it all back together. I turned it on, and it seemed to heat fine; the flame cycled off and on. Though watching it internally, with the top off, I didn't know the flame travelled and blew all the way to the back of the machine. That looked a little scary, but I THINK that's the way it is supposed to work. Anyway, I let it operate with a first real cycle with damp clothing, but noticed a burning plastic, electrical burning, or chemical kind of smell after about 15 minutes. Something like a strong "magic marker" permanent ink odor. I can't tell where it's coming from, but when I get my nose around the timer area, it seems to be strong there. Perhaps that's only because it's the highest point on the machine. I let the dryer complete the cycle anyway. The clothes ended up properly dry, but reeking of the burned smell. Never any visible smoke I might add. I did put a small bit of electrical tape over that old heat resistant cardboard cover from the old thermostat to hold it in place. And, I could probably remove that board altogether as John L. said, but I don't know if that's the source. It smells like more electrical or as described above. I hope it's not the new part melting and about to blow again for some reason. Also, the end of cycle buzzer might need a "limit switch" of its own. Near the end of a drying cycle it buzzes seemingly endlessly and annoyingly, until you move the timer forward manually, or go insane (whichever comes first). Is there any way to adjust this? Though I could live with the feature turned off. Obviously, I am mainly concerned with the burning smell. Any recommendations or thoughts? In regard to the washer, after struggling to turn and remove the tub bolts, I finally got them out. So now, I am about to install the new boot or tub seal. Wondering if I should put a bead of silicone around the sealing/band tightening area, or not bother. I'd like to get it right, and completely sealed the first time. Also, I purchased a new belt and just need to know if I have to remove the pump to put it on. I know it shouldn't be that difficult, but I just don't see how it could easily be done. Please kindly advise. Thank you. Note to Greg: Obviously I didn't get the repair manual, and I probably should. I may yet. | ||
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Post# 710709 , Reply# 1 10/21/2013 at 23:49 (3,836 days old) by Yogitunes  (New Jersey) |
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Dryer....not sure about....just keep an eye on things, or others may chime in as to what may be the cause......maybe take a chance and remove that cardboard and see if that makes a difference....yeah, with that airflow being pulled in, that flame does hit the back wall, and seem like it is turning upwards, that has always seemed normal to me....
Washer...I do put a small bead of silicone around just to be safe and make sure everything seals snuggly.... for the belt, theres two ways....you have to remove one of the clamps for the pump, usually the pump side is easiest to reinstall, I do it laying down, JohnL does it standing up...what ever is easier for you... second way is to remove the motor nuts, and plugs, drop the motor a little and fish the belt around/under and into place without removing the pump belt....then put the nuts and plugs back in place and tighten.... anything else, let us know how we can help | ||
| Post# 714500 , Reply# 2 11/11/2013 at 00:11 (3,816 days old) by tecnopolis (Ocala/Dunnellon, Florida 34481) | ||
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Post# 714550 , Reply# 3 11/11/2013 at 07:48 (3,816 days old) by super32 (Blackstone Massachusetts) |
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Smell in the dryer | ||
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Post# 714556 , Reply# 4 11/11/2013 at 08:28 (3,816 days old) by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers) |
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ooo Scott | ||
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Post# 714631 , Reply# 5 11/11/2013 at 15:53 (3,815 days old) by super32 (Blackstone Massachusetts) |
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Platinum edition Nexxt | ||
| Post# 714655 , Reply# 7 11/11/2013 at 17:13 (3,815 days old) by rustyspaatz () | ||
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Not this. . 
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Post# 714692 , Reply# 8 11/11/2013 at 18:51 (3,815 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Sad Burned Dryer | ||
| Post# 714728 , Reply# 10 11/11/2013 at 22:09 (3,815 days old) by keny (Detroit, Michigan) | ||
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GE gas dryer update
Thanks for responding Rusty. I thought my post was history.
Flame doesn't sound right. It should be staying in the flame housing, where the metal is thicker and can handle the direct, concentrated heat from combustion. ... It's hitting the back wall of the dryer, looking like it's traveling up. The rear porcelain interior of the drum does have brownish scorch marks or some kind of stain. It sounds like your dryer may be set up for Propane and your using Natural Gas, or vice versa. One is a higher pressure and the corresponding emitters are smaller. ... Most people in my area use Natural Gas, and it is hooked up to my gas line. I've never heard of needing to partially close the gas valve for proper operation. Is there some other way to tell if the dryer is meant to be used with propane? The model number is DDG9280DBL if that is of any help. Any pictures? They are kind of a requirement here. ...If I get a chance tomorrow, I'll try to post a photo of the flame. I believe it is blue for the most part. Also, there is an update note on the dryer. I removed the heat resistant cardboard above the limit switch. When I did that however, pulling the cardboard off, the base of the switch stayed screwed in place, and the top half of the part separated, so I just snapped it back together. Hope that doesn't mean I damaged it. Anyway, at that point I tried another load of wet clothes in the dryer. This time there was much less of any burning smell. However, there was still some. So maybe that was part of the reason. One final question I alluded to before; does the "stuck" end-of-cycle signal mean the timer needs replacement? It buzzes much to long when the load is almost complete. I won't replace it for that reason alone, I was hoping it might be adjustable somehow. But that's the least of my concerns with this appliance. I don't want to call GE for service if I can help it. I just want to be able to use it without worrying about it causing injury to me, or damage to my home. | ||
| Post# 714737 , Reply# 11 11/11/2013 at 22:32 (3,815 days old) by barcoboy (Canada) | ||
The dryer end of cycle buzzer behavior you are describing sounds normal... at least that's how my GE dryer's buzzer works. I think it is meant to go off before the end of the cycle so that the operator can remove the clothes before the dryer stops and wrinkles have a chance to set in.
Does your dryer have a switch to turn the buzzer on and off? | ||
| Post# 714738 , Reply# 12 11/11/2013 at 22:46 (3,815 days old) by keny (Detroit, Michigan) | ||
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Post# 714873 , Reply# 14 11/12/2013 at 14:37 (3,814 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions) |
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| Post# 714875 , Reply# 15 11/12/2013 at 14:49 (3,814 days old) by camMURRAY22 (Savannah,Georgia) | ||
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Gas Explosions THE SAME GOES FOR FLOOR FURNACES. Watch Rescue 911 | ||
| Post# 714964 , Reply# 17 11/12/2013 at 20:53 (3,814 days old) by rustyspaatz () | ||
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Don't know what else to say. wish you the best of luck. CLICK HERE TO GO TO rustyspaatz's LINK 
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| Post# 716324 , Reply# 18 11/19/2013 at 17:16 (3,807 days old) by kitty () | ||
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I don't know. All I have to say is that I like electric dryer rather than gas dryer. | ||
| Post# 716495 , Reply# 19 11/20/2013 at 12:05 (3,806 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA) | ||
End Signal | ||
| Post# 716499 , Reply# 20 11/20/2013 at 12:29 (3,806 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA) | ||
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Found this Online:
Dryers - Benefit of the End of the Cycle Signal
Many GE dryers feature an End of Cycle signal. There is less chance of clothes getting wrinkled if they are removed from the dryer promptly, and the signal alerts you that the cycle is about to end. 1995 and newer dryers give several short buzzes a few minutes before shutting off. 1994 and earlier models buzzed for approximately 1/2 minute to 2 1/2 minutes just prior to the end of each drying cycle. (Normal is 1 min. 15 sec, minimum is 18 sec. and maximum is 2 min. 12 sec., depending on the model.) To stop the buzzer on these models, advance the timer to the OFF position, (or turn the end-of-cycle signal selector to OFF). Opening the door may not terminate the signal. GE offers 3 signal types: Variable: This signal can be turned on and off and has an adjustable tone. Most models can be programmed for one of three tone levels. Deluxe: This signal can be turned on or off and is not adjustable. Fixed: This signal is "fixed" and the volume cannot be adjusted. It will buzz automatically at the end of the cycle and once the timer moves to the OFF position, it will automatically shut off. On some models, a Signal Option switch will disable the buzzer when not wanted or needed. See the Owner's Manual for model specific information. Who knew... | ||
| Post# 716572 , Reply# 21 11/20/2013 at 16:46 (3,806 days old) by rustyspaatz () | ||
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as was covered in reply #13 geee, You mean instead of writing word for word as I did, I could have just gone on line... copied and pasted. hmmm. clever. Do you have a source? | ||
| Post# 716575 , Reply# 22 11/20/2013 at 16:56 (3,806 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA) | ||
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Cut and paste | ||
| Post# 716579 , Reply# 23 11/20/2013 at 17:01 (3,806 days old) by rustyspaatz () | ||
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lol. you sexy stinker. | ||
| Post# 716599 , Reply# 24 11/20/2013 at 18:28 (3,806 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA) | ||
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1/2 right | ||
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