Thread Number: 49670
How old is my Maytag A510? |
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Post# 717931 , Reply# 1   11/26/2013 at 20:52 (3,797 days old) by kitty ()   |   | |
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You could look its serial # up and it should tell the manufacturing date. The model # should tell you the capacity, spin speed, ect. Cheers! |
Post# 718006 , Reply# 2   11/27/2013 at 00:02 (3,797 days old) by Kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN)   |   | |
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It was made in December of 1983. The A 510 was the lowest model of the "Large Capacity" machines that Maytag made at that time. The water capacity of the tub was 19 gallons (72 liters) on the highest setting. Total water usage per load was about 40 gallons (152 l.) on the highest setting. To my knowledge, Maytag never offered a cubic foot measurement for these tubs. Generally speaking a Large capacity Maytag was good for 10-12 lbs. (approx. 5-6 kg) of dry clothes.
Most folks here would say that this a very fine washing machine (myself included). If you are replacing it because it is failing or needs expensive repairs that is one thing, but if you are replacing it thinking that you will recover the cost of a new machine in reduced water and energy usage you may want to think again….
Also, while Maytags were never at the top of list in terms of top-loading performance, today's machines are really not all that great either in my opinion. |
Post# 718007 , Reply# 3   11/27/2013 at 00:03 (3,797 days old) by dnastrau (Lords Valley, PA)   |   | |
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It looks like your A510 was built in December, 1983.
Whoops - we must have posted at the same time! |
Post# 718061 , Reply# 5   11/27/2013 at 11:12 (3,796 days old) by Kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN)   |   | |
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You will most likely have a difficult time removing the agitator from that machine. The better thing to do would be to fill the machine about 1/4 to a third of the way with the hottest water available. Let it soak for a while until the water cools a bit and then go after the dirt with a stiff brush and see where you get.
The fact that there is this much crud on the agitator would lead me to believe that it's not agitating well or at all. There are three things that combine to cause this on a Maytag. 1. Overloading (Maytags do not like to be overloaded, the rule of thumb is to drop clothes in LOOSELY until they are level with the top row of holes in the tub) 2. Broken or weak motor carriage springs and/or motor carriage glide issues 3. A badly worn drive belt
The second issue is the most involved for an amateur to fix, but would be a very common repair that needs to be made on a Maytag of this age.
Tell us a little bit about how you wash. How full do you fill the machine? What temperature water do you use? What kind of detergent? Do you leave the lid open for the inside of the machine to air out for at least a day after you do laundry?
If you are washing in only cold water that could be part of the odor problem. In your part of the world I would bet that most of the year your cold water is below 60 degrees (15 c.). For all of the "push" for cold water only washing, most detergent manufacturers consider cold water to be 70-85 degrees (20-30 c.). I would bet that if you set your machine to wash in warm and measured the warm water temp today that it would most likely be in that "cold" water range.
If all of this seems like too much bother you would probably benefit from a new machine. From what I hear pretty much anything else you buy today that is under $1,000 will most likely clean better than the Maytag is currently cleaning and likely last for 5 - 8 years before needing a major repair. |
Post# 718062 , Reply# 6   11/27/2013 at 11:28 (3,796 days old) by laundromat (Hilo, Hawaii)   |   | |
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Post# 718068 , Reply# 7   11/27/2013 at 11:51 (3,796 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)   |   | |
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I don't remember exactly when the change happened, but sometime in that 1983-1985 range, the agitator changed from a friction fit to a set-screw fit. If it is indeed a set-screw style agitator, it is relatively easy to remove. All you need is a 1/4 inch nut driver or a 1/4 socket on a ratchet to release the set-screw. Feel around the base of the column for a screw. You don't need to remove it all the way, just enough to get the agitator to pull off.
If you find that your agitator doesn't have a set-screw and is indeed of the friction fit style, it is a toss-up on how easy it will come out. I've had some machines that were beautifully clean but the agitator refused to come out, while others were dirty, nasty machines and the agitator pulled out will little effort. Good luck! Ben |