Little Giants electrics....

Do not I repeat do not run a dedicated ground rod. It will do nothing for safety. Being able to get an impedance low enough to generate enough current to trip a breaker via a standard 8 foot ground rod is difficult if not impossible. One would need exceptionally low soil resistance or many, many deeply driven rods to get a low enough resistance. Even then that may not be enough if the transformer neutral isn't grounded well enough through the soil on the other side. Hence why it isn't allowed in the NEC. If a fault did occur in the oven chances are the ground rod would become energized. The rod will end up passing current continuously which will start to dry up the soil around it; if there are any flammable materials near by (such as dry brush or leaves) the dryness and heat can start a fire. The stove will still be a shock hazard if a fault occurred within it sine the rod may not give equal potential to the other ground reference points (ie refrigerator or sink plumbing)

What the stove needs is bonding with the buildings equipment grounding/bonding system. If all you need are 2 phases and an equipment grounding conductor as long as 3 wires are present then your all set on the stove side. All that's needed is to know what is going on the other side of the cable feeding the range outlet.


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Post# 722918 12/24/2013 at 13:37 (3,767 days old) by MieleisdaTits ()
Checkrate/Likes Happy Christmas to you all !! My presents have stood in the kitchen for weeks, in the form of a 68 inch tall shimmering silver tower that (although mute) refuses to cease strutting-its-stuff that is German perfection! I've even peeked inside ..... everything is so deluxe compared to the already nice outgoing W1215 pair. However the electricians are less deluxe.. a non-present nightmare to be blunt, The new machine's NEMA L16-30 plugs dangle down their backs from their luxuriously long thick leads! ..... The new receptacles and plates lay on the floor!! It's 'getting old' and beginning to wreak of more BS than I have the energy to type about.... So I'm going to take matters into my own hands and get these working !! Heres the deal... The old 1215 and the matching dryer use regular garden-variety NEMA 4 prong dryer plugs "2 hots and a neutral" (ground is not used here) and my new Little Giants utilize 16-30 plugs utilizing "2 hots and a ground" There is no 'ground' in this building as it predates that standard although the NEUTRAL IS GROUNDED. If necessary, I'm prepared to drop a Ground wire down the building to ground to a dedicated grounding rod, (total pain in the derri�re though, as I'm on an higher floor of a large building) Another electrician I spoke to about this predicament said "neutral is grounded here, so just connect the ground to that".... Thoughts anyone?? I'm determined to see how fun these new babes are to use! (and also to see if one really does only have to empty this massssssive but marvelous lint filter once every week or two!! I'd appreciate some advice from the electrically savvy..... Gratefully...Screwdriver in hand!

Post# 723048 , Reply# 1 12/25/2013 at 09:22 (3,767 days old) by eronie (Flushing Michigan)
Checkrate/Likes *ground* ground and neutral are connected to the same buss bar in my circuit panel. stove is 4 prong, dryer is 3 prong .

Post# 723056 , Reply# 2 12/25/2013 at 09:49 (3,767 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)
Checkrate/Likes maybe this will help you....no wiring conversion of any type required, get the version of plug you need, and in seconds, your all set.... shop online, or any electic warehouse should have them.......PlugPro 3 to 4 conversion......theres also a 4 to 3.....for either the dryer, or the stove.... other than that, the only choice is to change the cord.....or change the outlet... CLICK HERE TO GO TO Yogitunes's LINK

Post# 723057 , Reply# 3 12/25/2013 at 09:51 (3,767 days old) by chetlaham (United States)
Checkrate/Likes *Any pics of the electric box and the stove outlet?* Do not I repeat do not run a dedicated ground rod. It will do nothing for safety. Being able to get an impedance low enough to generate enough current to trip a breaker via a standard 8 foot ground rod is difficult if not impossible. One would need exceptionally low soil resistance or many, many deeply driven rods to get a low enough resistance. Even then that may not be enough if the transformer neutral isn't grounded well enough through the soil on the other side. Hence why it isn't allowed in the NEC. If a fault did occur in the oven chances are the ground rod would become energized. The rod will end up passing current continuously which will start to dry up the soil around it; if there are any flammable materials near by (such as dry brush or leaves) the dryness and heat can start a fire. The stove will still be a shock hazard if a fault occurred within it sine the rod may not give equal potential to the other ground reference points (ie refrigerator or sink plumbing) What the stove needs is bonding with the buildings equipment grounding/bonding system. If all you need are 2 phases and an equipment grounding conductor as long as 3 wires are present then your all set on the stove side. All that's needed is to know what is going on the other side of the cable feeding the range outlet.

Post# 723062 , Reply# 4 12/25/2013 at 10:41 (3,767 days old) by chetlaham (United States)
Checkrate/Likes *L16-30* Just though of the plug, are you sure its a L16-30? L16-30 is a 3 phase 480 volt locking type plug. Perhaps you were referring to a 6-30R?