SQ solid tub what now?


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Thread Number: 50658
SQ solid tub what now?

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Post# 728761 1/19/2014 at 13:12 (3,743 days old) by everythingold (Grand Rapids, Michigan)
Checkrate/Likes I got the motor and agitator off. There was change and stuff under the agitator. How do I get the bolts/screws out without shearing them? They are in there good.

Post# 728762 , Reply# 1 1/19/2014 at 13:14 (3,743 days old) by epixstar128 (toledo)
Checkrate/Likes Apply some heat to them first and penetrating. Lube at least over night

Post# 728800 , Reply# 2 1/19/2014 at 16:22 (3,742 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)
Checkrate/Likes *then* and chip away at the dried crud/scum and then resoak, so you know the PB Blaster gets down under the bolt head. Make sure to use a 6 sided socket, not 12, so all your force goes into turning the bolt, not into ruining your socket. Don't be afraid to use a rubber mallet, one hit or so to TIGHTEN, believe it or not, then lots of hits to loosen. Anything is better than shearing them off. You may get a few out and then need more advice and more old tricks to get the next few. PATIENCE. As for the screws, same process of soaking and scraping away crud and resoaking, then get a vise grip on your biggest screwdriver for extra torque. Heat one screw. Also apply pressure downward on the screwdriver so your force goes into turning the screw, not jumping out of the grooves. PATIENE.

Post# 728887 , Reply# 3 1/19/2014 at 19:40 (3,742 days old) by washman (o)
Checkrate/Likes *Keep us posted please!* I look forward to seeing this grand old piece of history in operation once again.

Post# 728908 , Reply# 4 1/19/2014 at 20:45 (3,742 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)
Checkrate/Likes 1 Don't remove the 8 screws that hold the tub to the agitator post, just remove the four bolts around the mid-section. Apply heat and they should come right out. Once those are out, you can rock the tub and get it loose from the spin hub. The new agitator post kits came with new screws as it was rare to get the old stainless screws out of the pot metal base of the post.

Post# 729025 , Reply# 5 1/20/2014 at 09:26 (3,742 days old) by everythingold (Grand Rapids, Michigan)
Checkrate/Likes *Thanks* That helps. I will get out the torch and lube : )

Post# 729032 , Reply# 6 1/20/2014 at 10:03 (3,742 days old) by maytagman806s ()
Checkrate/Likes Hey Matt, I've got to hand it to you for taking a gamble on trying to save this machine. I went through the same thing 2 years ago when I restored my DA6191 solid tub. Except there were several changes I made along the way during the restoration. And one of them was the addition of a Suds-Return system. Those screws that hold the inner tub to the agitator post assembly(8 #3 Phillips) will come out relatively easily, but my advice is to not remove them unless you really need to. I would recommend getting someone to help you if they must be removed because it is much easier with 2 people. I wouldn't waste my time with a propane or map torch, both take too much time and it is much easier to concentrate the heat source with Acetylene-Oxygen. Have plenty of Blaster handy and heat the area around the screws from the underside of the inner tub. You don't have to heat them, spray them, and pull them out all at once. Odds are they won't come out anyway. Heat each one a little and soak it, and go on to the next. You know how to do all that. Spray each screw again after you heat them and let them sit overnight like the fellas are saying. When you go to take the screws out if need be, lay the inner tub on its side. Go to Lowe's or HomeDepot and get a #3 Phillips screwdriver about 12-16 inches long. Now here is where you need your help. Have someone heat around each screw slowly as you attempt to remove the screw. They will come out, but I guarantee it will be a heat and work type deal for 8 screws, but they will come out. Be vigilant in examining the agitator post. I don't recommend scraping at any area on the post. My first choice would be a good wire brush either by hand or on a drill. An old vacuum cleaner works well for collecting all the soap dust and crud. I would say there is at least a 50/50 shot that you are apt to find perforations in the area about 1/2 way to 3/4 way to the top. These can be repaired with JB weld, but Metalset A4 works much better, and can be machined, drilled, tapped and painted or coated. The rubber seals for the screws can be made from simple faucet washers if they are damaged when removing the screws. And screws that you take out, make sure you coat all of them with anti-seize before you put them back in. I guess I do not know what was the bigger challenge in this restoration. Getting the machine apart without destroying it and finding all the parts to put it back together(anything I did find, I bought whatever the suppliers had left.), or putting a good suds-return system on it. Either way, new replacement parts are mostly NLA, and the information is not easy to find. So if there is anything I can do to help you, just ask. But I will be the first to tell you (cause I have been thru it) and the rest of the gang will tell you, restoring one of these "gems" if you will, is a good lesson in patience for anyone. If you like, we can chat via e-mail if you are in need of further assistance. Good luck and keep me posted. Walt

Post# 729088 , Reply# 7 1/20/2014 at 15:13 (3,741 days old) by everythingold (Grand Rapids, Michigan)
Checkrate/Likes tx. we will see how it goes : )

Post# 731575 , Reply# 8 1/29/2014 at 15:32 (3,732 days old) by everythingold (Grand Rapids, Michigan)
Checkrate/Likes *Got the tub out!* Can I use epoxy to repair the leaking nut? It seems like it should hold.

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