Thread Number: 51797
I would love to get my sensitemp to work. |
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Post# 741909 , Reply# 1   3/14/2014 at 17:55 (3,687 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)   |   | |
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The problem with your Sensi-Temp burner is almost certainly the sensor (the part in the center of the burner), or the responder (behind the knob). Given that you're hearing a hum and feeling the knob vibrate, my money would be on the responder. To put things in terms that are perhaps overly simple, the sensor determines the temperature of the pan, and the responder adjusts the temperature to give you what you set. The sensor's job is to tell the responder what is needed.
One member here, John, whose handle is combo52, sometimes has parts for these units. He's going to need to know your range's model number and serial number; both these numbers will be on a metal plate on the frame of the oven door opening. John can also help you diagnose the problem better. Parts also turn up on eBay. John can probably help you diagnose and repair the problems with your other burners as well. I can see one problem on your right rear burner (the 8-inch unit without Sensi-Temp); the burner looks as if it could have been badly overheated. This often occurs when someone has been cooking on high heat, takes the pot or pan off the burner, and then forgets to turn the burner off. Your range is a top-of-the-line 40-inch range from about 1972. It originally had a griddle, a rotisserie and a meat probe thermometer. If yours still has all those accessories, you have some real rarities. The range is very much worth keeping and repairing. You will not find anything on today's market that even begins to approach the quality level of that unit. |
Post# 741928 , Reply# 3   3/14/2014 at 18:51 (3,687 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)   |   | |
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Once you have a model and serial number, John can advise you of parts availability and cost. Be aware that Sensi-Temp parts are not cheap, but I have always found John's pricing to be very fair.
John runs a busy appliance repair service in the D.C. area, so it can be a few days before he has time to log on here, scan the threads, and find ones that he needs to look at. Please don't despair; John is a businesslike person and will get to it. Also, as you look at repair costs on your range, it will be useful to go to your local Home Depot or Lowe's and look at their ranges. Look at the cheapest ones you can find, and you'll be shocked at what these stores are asking for pieces of garbage. When you are totaling up repair costs for your range, they will not be as much as that, and you'll have something worth owning when you're done. |
Post# 741937 , Reply# 4   3/14/2014 at 19:21 (3,687 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)   |   | |
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Looking a little more closely at the photo you provided, your range is later than 1972.
In the mid-1970s, the Feds regulated a feature that had been on ranges for a long time - convenience outlets. Those were electric outlets on the backguards of ranges; ranges with automatic ovens like yours usually had two - one regular outlet, and one timed outlet controlled by the automatic oven timer. You could use the timed outlet to start percolators, etc. automatically in the morning. However, your range does not have these outlets, so that makes it mid-'70s or later, after this feature was regulated out of existence. The Feds felt that stupid people might melt an appliance cord on a hot burner, so they made sure no one could have convenience outlets. Here's a photo of a slightly earlier range that does have the convenience outlets, at the very bottom of the backguard, under the burner control knobs. The photo is cut off, so only one is in the picture, but there were two on this model: |
Post# 741972 , Reply# 5   3/14/2014 at 21:04 (3,687 days old) by zinniz ()   |   | |
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The Model Number is J CP 6800 1 WH Serial Number: DZ 224927 G Based on a chart for serial number/manufacture dates, it looks like this puts it at February 1976. |
Post# 742016 , Reply# 6   3/15/2014 at 02:05 (3,687 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)   |   | |
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John combo52 will hopefully be along presently. I've also sent him a private message to let him know you're in need of assistance, linking him to this thread.
P.S.: Glad to see you found the GE date decoder and used it by yourself. If you're going to keep vintage appliances running, that kind of initiative really helps. |
Post# 742036 , Reply# 7   3/15/2014 at 07:10 (3,686 days old) by robinsondm (Upstate NY)   |   | |
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I have a 1966 40-inch GE Range, and the Sensi-Temp feature is definitely worth having. I repaired my Sensi-Temp in 2000, and it has continued to work since then. My range needed both a sensor and a responder, and back in 2000, GE still sold both parts (not any more, unfortunately).
According to repairclinic.com, which is usually pretty accurate, your Sensi-Temp sensor is part number WB21X5207. That's the same as on my range. Repairclinic doesn't report your responder part number, but IF it's the same as on my range, that would be WB21X153. That part is available on eBay now. As Sandy mentioned, John (combo52) may also have the parts you need.
Another tip: If you want to confirm the above part numbers, you can call GE Appliance Parts at 1-877-959-8688. For an older range like yours, they may need to look up the part numbers on microfiche, which takes several minutes -- and you may even need to call twice before getting all the information you need -- but this is a helpful service.
Good luck with the repairs, to a fellow owner of a vintage GE range!
Dean |
Post# 743356 , Reply# 8   3/19/2014 at 19:30 (3,682 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Hi Carrie, the most likely failure is the sensor, you can check it by testing the resistance across it, if it is OK you should come up with about 17.5 ohms, if it tests bad and you want to check weather the responder is good just connect the two yellow wires together and the burner will heat at FULL HEAT, it is not a good idea to leave the sensor bypassed [ you will end setting fire to something ]. I do have some good used sensors that I will sell if you find this is all you need and want to try fixing this neat feature, if it were me I would fix it.
It is also fairly easy to install a regular infinite switch on this range and if you do you do not lose the three size burner or the grill feature. Deans advice is good, your range uses the same sensor that his needed, the responder however would have a different part#. For the record the Feds had nothing to do with convenience outlets disappearing from ranges. This was done by UL Underwriters Laboratory, which is a private [ non government association ] that is supported by the appliance industry [ and others ]. This was a good regulation and an easy one to get range manufacturers to agree to BECAUSE it saved them MONEY and because everyone dropped the feature at the same time there was no sales disadvantage in eliminating convenience outlets, at the same the push to turn safety controls also became mandatory [ another life saving feature that your range has, both of these features became a UL regulation in 1974. John L. |
Post# 743360 , Reply# 9   3/19/2014 at 19:41 (3,682 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)   |   | |
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I gladly stand corrected on the source of the mandate against convenience outlets, but I will forever wish that it had not happened.
On my present GE J 370 with convenience outlets, I have the happy option of starting my Farberware perc automatically in the morning, without the use of a cluttering plug-in timer. The non-timed outlet also gives me an additional outlet on that side of the kitchen, and outlets are manna from Heaven in houses built when mine was, which was 1950. I'm glad to hear you think Carrie's problem is the sensor. That's easier to get to and to replace than the responder, at least for us non-pro types. I'm sure either assembly would be a piece of cake for you. |
Post# 743368 , Reply# 10   3/19/2014 at 20:22 (3,682 days old) by norgeway (mocksville n c )   |   | |
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Any feature you want, they have removed, anything useless they have added!!!lol! |
Post# 743375 , Reply# 11   3/19/2014 at 20:41 (3,682 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Hi Sandy And Hans, yes I agree with both of you, convenience outlets on electric ranges could be very useful in older homes that did not have enough circuits in the kitchen, many a portable dishwasher was run on these outlets along with waffle irons, clothes washers and on and on. The convenience outlets were less useful on gas ranges because they were usually just plugged into the general kitchens wiring, but on an electric range you got a separate dedicated 15 or 20 Amp outlet.
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Post# 743380 , Reply# 12   3/19/2014 at 21:05 (3,682 days old) by norgeway (mocksville n c )   |   | |
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The waffle iron/electric frying pan or the electric deep fryer, also the crock pot,they are also great when making 7 minute icing,'portable mixer"..The push to turn knobs spelled the end for pushbuttons, which I always loved. |
Post# 743467 , Reply# 13   3/20/2014 at 04:50 (3,682 days old) by robinsondm (Upstate NY)   |   | |
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Carrie (zinniz),
There's a Sensi-Temp sensor on eBay now, for what I think is a good price. Of course, John (combo52) may be able to sell you one at an even better price. I'll leave that up to you and him.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NOS-GE-RANGE-SEN...
Dean |
Post# 743471 , Reply# 14   3/20/2014 at 05:17 (3,682 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)   |   | |
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Post# 743483 , Reply# 15   3/20/2014 at 07:08 (3,681 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 743510 , Reply# 16   3/20/2014 at 09:04 (3,681 days old) by zinniz ()   |   | |
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Woo hoo! I just got that part on eBay. Even if that's not what's wrong right now, it will be great to have it for future needs. John--I will test the sensor after work today. I really appreciate your advice! |
Post# 743554 , Reply# 18   3/20/2014 at 12:57 (3,681 days old) by robinsondm (Upstate NY)   |   | |
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Carrie,
Great job nabbing that eBay sensor! You're welcome. ;-) If you're talking about that gray blob on the bottom, when you say the sensor doesn't look normal -- actually, that is normal! I've replaced my Sensi-Temp sensor in the past, and they do have that gray blob of stuff -- I assume it's a high temperature adhesive and/or sealant -- on the bottom. I just wanted to mention this, so you won't assume something is wrong with your new sensor. Good luck, Dean |
Post# 743679 , Reply# 21   3/20/2014 at 19:26 (3,681 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Hi Drew, it is important that the cookware be flat and most importantly the center of the pan must be in good contact with the sensor for proper operation.
Keep in mind when cooking on these Calrod style surface elements, and you are using high heat, THE ELEMENT SHOULD NEVER GLOW RED HOT, if it does you need better cookware, this is true of any electric range with conventional elements. Drew it is fairly difficult to remove the cook-top on your range, it is usually best to just clean through the burner openings. |
Post# 743687 , Reply# 22   3/20/2014 at 19:41 (3,681 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)   |   | |
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Post# 743699 , Reply# 24   3/20/2014 at 20:02 (3,681 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)   |   | |
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The full GE instruction manual for Sensi-Temp burners is available from Automaticwasher.org's "sister" site, Automatic Ephemera. It gives full instructions and cookware recommendations. It is available for paid download, at only $1.99. The download comes to you in PDF (Adobe Reader) format, in the most amazingly high-quality scans you ever saw. Automatic Ephemera accepts PayPal.
The link to the Sensi-Temp instruction book is: www.automatice.org/cgi-bin/index.... |
Post# 743836 , Reply# 25   3/21/2014 at 09:25 (3,680 days old) by Drewbiz ()   |   | |
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Thank you all for the good info. I am going to order the sensi temp manual and the owners manual they have. This forum is very helpful. |
Post# 744162 , Reply# 27   3/22/2014 at 13:53 (3,679 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)   |   | |
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I am so glad to hear - and see - that your range is looking and working great, ready for a few more decades of culinary adventures.
In case you do not have it, the GE Sensi-Temp instruction manual is a must, because Sensi-Temp doesn't work exactly like many people think it does. A lot of people try to use it strictly with the temperature settings, when in fact you need to use the "Boil" settings when cooking with liquids. And it never needs to be cranked up red-hot, as John combo52 mentions above. Again, the Sensi-Temp guide can be downloaded from Automatic Ephemera for only $1.99. Robert, the owner of this site, runs AE as well. A link directly to the page for the Sensi-Temp guide is below. Again, congratulations on your first vintage appliance "save," and I am willing to bet there are more in your future! Glad we could help. CLICK HERE TO GO TO danemodsandy's LINK |
Post# 744166 , Reply# 28   3/22/2014 at 13:58 (3,679 days old) by robinsondm (Upstate NY)   |   | |
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Post# 744568 , Reply# 29   3/23/2014 at 18:32 (3,678 days old) by zinniz ()   |   | |
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Sandy, Thanks for the link! I got it downloaded and love the anthropomorphic illustrations in it. I learned a lot from the booklet. It's definitely a must-have for anyone with one of these burners. Carrie. |
Post# 744573 , Reply# 30   3/23/2014 at 18:51 (3,678 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)   |   | |
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Glad you like the Sensi-Temp guide! The cookware drawings in the book are of a Wear-Ever line of cookware called Hallite, which turns up a lot in thrift stores and on eBay. I keep meaning to nab a couple of pieces and see if it's any better on the Sensi-Temp than my aluminum-clad Farberware.
Not that anyone's going to pry me away from my Farberware, you understand.... |
Post# 744749 , Reply# 31   3/24/2014 at 09:22 (3,677 days old) by sarahperdue (Alabama)   |   | |
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Hi Carrie,
I'm Sarah. I love seeing your range and have enjoyed this discussion about the Sensi-Temp burner. I have a Hotpoint with Hotpoint's version of the Sensi-Temp and hope to take on fixing it sometime in the not so distant future. I love your analog clocks. Mine has the mechanical digital clock, but it was a major upgrade from the 30" Kenmore with the rusted through oven liner, so I bought it especially since the large oven is self cleaning. Glad you found AW. I agree with Sandy, once you successfully repair an old appliance, it is hard to resist taking on another. Sarah |
Post# 789433 , Reply# 34   10/17/2014 at 05:50 (3,471 days old) by danemodsandy (The Bramford, Apt. 7-E)   |   | |
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Post# 789456 , Reply# 35   10/17/2014 at 10:03 (3,470 days old) by Julie ()   |   | |
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Yes, it is awesome! It is a 1969 model, I looked it up. It also has the electrical outlets. I will try to patiently wait on John. Thanks for your response! |
Post# 846243 , Reply# 38   10/17/2015 at 16:20 (3,105 days old) by norgeway (mocksville n c )   |   | |
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Was a great feature.....WHEN it worked, unfortunately I have never seen one that did work, as many old stoves as I have had down thru the years, only the ones that were on gas ranges worked, and they were great. |
Post# 908074 , Reply# 40   11/22/2016 at 15:42 (2,703 days old) by hginvt (Boston)   |   | |
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I have a vintage GE stove, circa 1963, and I also am looking for a sensor. Model #J 346 14711. Anyone have one or could you point me to one? Thanks in advance. |
Post# 908078 , Reply# 41   11/22/2016 at 16:22 (2,703 days old) by ken (NYS)   |   | |
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First automatic GE burner was the hydraulic controlled "Automatic Calrod". Around 1960, I believe, it was changed to an electric control and renamed "Sensi-temp". The first Sensi-temp used a different sensor than later Sensi-temp. I don't know what year that change was made. The part number for the second style is WB21X5207 and has yellow leads. Im sure someone here knows year of change and part number for the earlier sensor.
Best bet is to look on ebay. I got one there earlier this year. They are usually quite expensive but keep watching and eventually one will be listed at a "reasonable" price. You can follow a search and ebay will email you an alert when one is listed. Look at this old thread for a picture of one version of electric sensor. Its referred to as being the earlier one. Looks like it had white leads. www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/T... |
Post# 924327 , Reply# 42   3/1/2017 at 07:38 (2,604 days old) by nikita (Kingston)   |   | |
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my sensi temp needs to be replaced GE part # WB21X5207. any ideas? i checked ebay and online w/ no luck. thank you! |
Post# 924420 , Reply# 45   3/1/2017 at 20:10 (2,604 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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70-80% of the time the sensor is bad, Part # WB21X5207 is the sensor that was used on all GE STBs after around 1962-the mid 80s when GE discontinued this wonderful feature.
The other 20-30% of the time you either have a bad transformer or responder. In rare cases you may have a broken wire where the wires connect to the element and even more rarely you could have a bad element. The elements seldom failed on STBs because the sensor system protected the element from the overheating abuse that many users of electric ranges put the surface elements through by running them red hot with warped or too small a pan on larger elements.
John L. |
Post# 924569 , Reply# 47   3/2/2017 at 22:16 (2,603 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Hi Sirena, thanks for asking but unfortunately we have exhausted our supply of these sensors at this time. They were used for a long time so if you keep checking on line you may find a good new or used one. Two weeks ago I was working on one of our customers ranges that had a bad sensor and I converted to a regular infinite switch.
John |
Post# 924606 , Reply# 48   3/3/2017 at 07:32 (2,602 days old) by nikita (Kingston)   |   | |
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thank you john - combo 52. i am so sad...this stove has been in the family for 50 yrs! is it expensive to convert to a regular burner? |
Post# 925115 , Reply# 49   3/5/2017 at 13:27 (2,600 days old) by Janit (Richmond)   |   | |
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Combo 52, What are you referring to when you said you converted a unit to a regular infinite switch? My sensor is out on my stove. The last time I replaced it GE still had the part available. They show up on eBay but are pricey. Janit |
Post# 925158 , Reply# 50   3/5/2017 at 16:11 (2,600 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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You can install a regular infinite switch in place of the responder control and the burner will work like a newer range.
GE had a kit to do this on any ST burner range they ever made, I dough that the kit is still available but any good tech can install a regular inf Sw kit in about 30 minutes so you will still have full use of the burner. |
Post# 925244 , Reply# 51   3/6/2017 at 06:24 (2,599 days old) by Janit (Richmond)   |   | |
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Excellent! Thanks combo 52. |
Post# 960099 , Reply# 53   10/1/2017 at 19:34 (2,390 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)   |   | |
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The thermostatically controlled burners prior to induction were all (at least in my experience and that of everyone I know, whether in the US or Europe) next door to useless. At best. I'd not worry about it. The bottom heating element is not going to be too hard to find. I'm too far away, but, gosh - it sure is pretty. |
Post# 960105 , Reply# 54   10/1/2017 at 20:08 (2,390 days old) by ken (NYS)   |   | |
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This link will take you to GE's site showing the chart to date your range. The first two letters in the Serial number designates the month and year of manufacture.
CLICK HERE TO GO TO ken's LINK |
Post# 960115 , Reply# 55   10/1/2017 at 21:44 (2,390 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Was one of the best features of these great ranges, the only time we found customers that did not like this feature was when people had no mechanical sense and never read how to use it.
You could not only cook almost anything with just one initial setting of the dial including baking a cake or even baking things like potatoes in a regular sauce pan with out a lid or water in the pan.
Your element that is not sitting level is easy to fix, it looks like the drip pan is sitting on the trim ring [ it is supposed to sit in the opening of the white cook-top and then the chrome ring sits above ] Also if the burner does not drop all the way to a level position the pivot stop needs a drop of oil.
John L. |
Post# 960185 , Reply# 56   10/2/2017 at 08:56 (2,389 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)   |   | |
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I don't question that the sensi-temp under ideal conditions worked well. At least when the entire system was running. Just - the restrictions were considerable as to material, size, etc. I'm old enough to have used many variations on the system, here and in Europe and, well - let's be fair here - given that it's not the least bit unusual for a regular burner/control to run without adjustment or repair for over 50 years, how long does one get from a temperature controlled unit before there's this, that or the other major problem? Two years? Five? It sure as heck isn't long, not compared to how the indirect controls last. |
Post# 960319 , Reply# 57   10/2/2017 at 22:52 (2,389 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Do not have to be used under ideal conditions, I use glass and cast-iron cook ware on mine, and they are actually more durable than non heat controlled elements, in fact I have NEVER seen a bad element on a GE ST element, because it is hard to abuse a heat controlled element the elements are not stressed and never burn out and warp.
The hydraulic controlled elements that were used on European and many US electric and GAS ranges alike almost never failed in the life of a range, I have no idea of where this 3-5 year life crap comes from Keven but they haven't even built many of the controlled elements we are talking about since the 70s and into the 80s and I never saw any that only lasted 3-5 years, I don't know where you come up with this crap.
John L. |
Post# 971310 , Reply# 58   12/3/2017 at 15:43 (2,327 days old) by Coop58 (Texas)   |   | |
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I recently replaced the sensor but the burner will not work. I disconnected the sensor and connected the leads and it works on high temp without sensor... all the buttons work..did I get a bad sensor? |
Post# 971325 , Reply# 59   12/3/2017 at 17:27 (2,327 days old) by speedqueen (Metro-Detroit)   |   | |
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Post# 971331 , Reply# 61   12/3/2017 at 18:06 (2,327 days old) by spacepig (Floridas Emerald Coast)   |   | |
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Post# 971341 , Reply# 62   12/3/2017 at 19:15 (2,327 days old) by Coop58 (Texas)   |   | |
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Ebay |
Post# 971350 , Reply# 63   12/3/2017 at 20:17 (2,327 days old) by spacepig (Floridas Emerald Coast)   |   | |
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Post# 971353 , Reply# 64   12/3/2017 at 20:39 (2,327 days old) by Coop58 (Texas)   |   | |
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Yes wb21x5207 |
Post# 971409 , Reply# 65   12/4/2017 at 06:32 (2,326 days old) by spacepig (Floridas Emerald Coast)   |   | |
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Post# 971413 , Reply# 66   12/4/2017 at 06:37 (2,326 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 971466 , Reply# 67   12/4/2017 at 11:10 (2,326 days old) by Coop58 (Texas)   |   | |
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Thanks John..does the sensor connect directly to the responder? Also do the T S T S connections on the responder mean T for transformer and S for sensor? |
Post# 971545 , Reply# 69   12/4/2017 at 18:33 (2,326 days old) by spacepig (Floridas Emerald Coast)   |   | |
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I do have the GE parts manual downloaded from the ephemera, and I usually check it against part numbers of the e-bay sensors. So far, no match on the part numbers.
I would even be ok with losing the sensi-temp and putting a regular burner/coil there, but that looks a lot more complex than it sounds (at least to us since we don't know what we're doing). |
Post# 971571 , Reply# 70   12/4/2017 at 20:37 (2,326 days old) by Coop58 (Texas)   |   | |
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I know I wouldn't attempt changing over to an infinite switch either...what was the sensor number you are looking for? |
Post# 972153 , Reply# 71   12/7/2017 at 13:55 (2,323 days old) by DocG (Michigan)   |   | |
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I know this is an old thread but I am looking for a burner too... |
Post# 972213 , Reply# 72   12/7/2017 at 19:43 (2,323 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 972408 , Reply# 73   12/8/2017 at 17:03 (2,322 days old) by Coop58 (Texas)   |   | |
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When I disconnect the sensor and then connect the leads and the burner works does that mean the responder and transformer are good? Gary C. |
Post# 973165 , Reply# 74   12/12/2017 at 04:31 (2,319 days old) by Coop58 (Texas)   |   | |
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Can the sensor be tested right out of the box or does it need to be tested through the responder? Gary C. |
Post# 973198 , Reply# 75   12/12/2017 at 09:09 (2,318 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 973517 , Reply# 76   12/13/2017 at 19:18 (2,317 days old) by sel8207 (naples, florida 34117)   |   | |
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Mine is a 1961 model stove with a sensi temp and the sensor is rated at 10 ohms. Wouldn't the earlier models be the same rating also. Then later on they changed to a 17.5 ohm sensor. His is about a 57' model I think. Les. |
Post# 975638 , Reply# 78   12/26/2017 at 22:18 (2,304 days old) by Coop58 (Texas)   |   | |
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Well the new responder didn't help...the new sensor must be bad ...I'm only getting about 10 ohms...the transformer is good so I don't know what else it could be. Gary C. |
Post# 975649 , Reply# 79   12/26/2017 at 23:37 (2,304 days old) by speedqueen (Metro-Detroit)   |   | |
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It looks as though you have only one option left at this point. Before you go spend more money on another sensor, check for continuity and resistance on all connections and if necessary clean contacts, just for good measure. You don't want to throw parts at is if it could be as simple as a dirty connection or open wire. As the resistors and phenolic terminal strips under the high voltage cage on my 1964 RCA color TV have told me, heat isn't kind to electronics and wires.
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Post# 975708 , Reply# 80   12/27/2017 at 08:37 (2,303 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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What is the age of your range ?, You might have already posted the model #, but I do not have time to go back and reread all the posts for it.
The older GE ranges had a 10 ohm sensor, these had white wires, by the mid 60s they used a 17.5 ohm sensor with yellow leads, these two sensors are not interchangeable.
One should always check for broken or disconnected wires, however dirty contacts have never been a problem on senceatemp system on GE ranges either in the sensor circuit and certainly not in the 120 and 240 volt circuits.
John L. |
Post# 975928 , Reply# 83   12/28/2017 at 22:36 (2,302 days old) by Coop58 (Texas)   |   | |
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Mine doesn't come on at all with the sensor connected...when I disconnect the sensor and connect the leads together that run to the responder then it comes on high and stays on high because the sensor has been bypassed. |
Post# 975949 , Reply# 84   12/29/2017 at 06:20 (2,301 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Hi Gary, you can test the sensor circuit and wiring by testing for 17.5 ohms at the responder, remove the two wires from the responder from terminals marked S and test across these two wires for 17.5 ohms. If you are getting 10 ohms you either got a bad sensor or the wrong one, does yours have white or yellow leads ?
John L. |
Post# 977754 , Reply# 88   1/10/2018 at 10:59 (2,289 days old) by Coop58 (Texas)   |   | |
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Purchased another sensor and the ohms were 17.5 hooked it up now working. Obviously the first sensor I bought was defective...ohm readings were all over the place. Next project is the clock and timers. Gary Cooper |
Post# 1178660 , Reply# 90   4/20/2023 at 20:50 (363 days old) by 63Kenmore (Burlington, North Carolina)   |   | |
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UPDATE: Sensor is at 17.5 ohms, so it looks like it needs a responder. |