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Thread Number: 52713
More questions regarding Maytag A308 repair |
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| Post# 750171 , Reply# 1 4/15/2014 at 01:38 (3,657 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
Tightening up what seal? I don't know what you mean. The transmission will turn if you over tighten the mounting stem, but you shouldn't need to do that. Just tighten it tell it's snug and the set screw isn't over any of the three flutes on the transmission neck. The transmission will spin when you remove or replace the brake package.
The cap catches grease that runs down the drive shaft and keeps the end of the shaft and drive lug clean. They're hard to find. | ||
| Post# 750314 , Reply# 4 4/15/2014 at 15:03 (3,656 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA) | ||
Maytag dependable care brake assy's
If your brake is squealing when the tub stops spinning, all you do is put about a tablespoon or so of transmission oil in it to lube the brake pads. This brake, unlike just about every other brand's brakes, is a WET brake. Not dry. Lubing a dr brake is a common and easy repair for me in the field. I can count on the fingers of one hand the number of Dependable Care brake assemblies I've actually had to replace.
Can you post a picture of the cap you're looking for. There were a couple of them. As far as centering the tub, you will need to put the cabinet together and spin the tub. Let it stop and observe the off center. Tighten the spring(s) opposite the lean a bit to pull the tub back towards center. Re spin to check your adjustments. The mounting stem... Tighten it by hand then use the wrench to tap it about a 1/8-1/4 turn, making sure the set screw is not in a channel on the transmission or you'll get a knock noise in agitate. Don't ask me how I know that! Let's just say I learned it as I was learning how to repair. Reading up on 'proper service procedures' is important but getting advice when you're stumped is important, too. RCD | ||
| Post# 750315 , Reply# 5 4/15/2014 at 15:05 (3,656 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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There's a mounting stem under the agitator and what's called a boot seal between that and the outer tub. You tighten the mounting stem on with the spanner wrench after you twist the boot seal down on the outer collector tub flange. Be careful with the carbon ring. Clean the flange on the outer tub and put a light coating or dish liquid or turbine oil and twist on the boot seal in a counter-clockwise direction until the bottom of the boot seats to the collector tub. Careful with the carbon ring at this point. Then run the machine in with no water to to make the carbon ring and mounting stem mate for a water tight seal before introducing water. Check thread #38714 if you haven't already. It might help you. Also "redcarpetdrew's thread #25520 is good.
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| Post# 750448 , Reply# 7 4/16/2014 at 03:46 (3,656 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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Hi Richard,
I don't know if I have any extra rubber caps like that or not. I don't have time to look right now. I'm leaving for Reno tomorrow. I can look when I get back. If you know anyone who's parting out a machine, you might be able to find one. Try your local independent appliance dealers. Some of them might have some old machines that are going to scrap or setting around. Older folks will usually be more helpful. B. | ||
| Post# 753423 , Reply# 9 4/28/2014 at 12:35 (3,643 days old) by maytag308 () | ||
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Bump... | ||
| Post# 754348 , Reply# 11 5/2/2014 at 03:44 (3,640 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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Did you try spinning the pulley by hand clockwise, if you're looking at the bottom of the machine, or counter-clockwise if you're just reaching under the machine and turning it? It should climb the helix disengage the brake and start to turn the basket and transmission.
Did you get the rotor bearing on the right way? If you took the pulley off there's a chance you left it off, got it upside down or the stop lug could be out of adjustment. Read link. If that doesn't work, did you remove the tub cover? If you did and you pushed it down too far it could be in contact with the top of the basket and keeping it from turning. Did you disassemble the transmission? If you did, did you put the bronze spline washer on the drive shaft first, then the lug washer? That's all I can think of. CLICK HERE TO GO TO beekeyknee's LINK This post was last edited 05/02/2014 at 04:06 | ||
| Post# 754405 , Reply# 12 5/2/2014 at 12:19 (3,639 days old) by maytag308 () | ||
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Will try the Pulley method. The Rotor Bearing is installed correctly. I will check the tub cover but I believe that there is nothing binding it up. | ||
| Post# 754500 , Reply# 13 5/2/2014 at 17:47 (3,639 days old) by maytag308 () | ||
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Still getting a burning rubber odor but the transmission is spinning ...slowly however. Making progress. I think ? I'm going keep adjusting the drive lug till I get this. Rotor bearing is fine. | ||
| Post# 754531 , Reply# 14 5/2/2014 at 19:29 (3,639 days old) by maytag308 () | ||
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Well, I'm gettig frustrated... I've adjusted and followed procedure but still getting the burning rubber odor while the tub is spinning slowly. I've taken a photo of the drive/stop lug assembly. It appears to be aligned correctly ? Any suggestions ? 
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| Post# 754532 , Reply# 15 5/2/2014 at 19:31 (3,639 days old) by maytag308 () | ||
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...and one more of the belts. They have been tightened accordingly. I hope ? 
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| Post# 754616 , Reply# 16 5/3/2014 at 00:34 (3,639 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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Well, I'm not even there and I feel your frustration too. You know, this whole thing is kinda cryptic. You got this thing going on two different threads and there's steps that have been left out. I take it you've never done this before and you're flying by the seat of your pants, so to speak, so I am too. I'm not trying to crawl your frame, but it's kinda hard to help you.
Did you ever download the Maytag Helical Drive Service Manual from Automatic Ephemera? If you've never done this before a service manual can help. Here's somethings to check, some of which may require disassembling your machine again. Start with the easiest things first. Can you spin that basket by hand with the pulley fairly easily? If you can, what kind of belts are you using? If you're using non-Maytag belts - car, lawn mower belts, etc. - it won't work. You have to use cloth covered Maytag belts. The belts have to slip and not make burning rubber smells. If you've been using the wrong belts, clean all that burnt rubber off those pulleys and start over with Maytag belts. If you were using Maytag belts and that problem occurred you'll need to track down what's causing the problem. After you find it you will need to clean those pulleys again and replace the drive belt with a new Maytag belt(s). That one's ruined. Next consider the radial bearing. Not likely to cause burning belts but would be really noisy when spin speed increased. Is the motor carriage lubricated with poly lube, assembled properly with the right springs and carriage glides? I'm gonna make another stab in the dark and guess that you're not using Maytag belts??? The first time I did this over thirty years ago I spent most of the summer fiddling with a machine and the only thing wrong was I wasn't using Maytag belts. But I didn't have a service manual and there was no internet, of course. Hope this helps. This post was last edited 05/03/2014 at 04:27 | ||
| Post# 755360 , Reply# 19 5/6/2014 at 22:47 (3,635 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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Well, congrats, Richard. I figured it was a belt or tub cover problem. Slight squeal when spin begins? Did you clean off the burned rubber from the pulleys and replace the burned belts? That will make a squealing sound. Also real Maytag belts in the blue bag are much better than those stupid FSP belts.
B. | ||
| Post# 759732 , Reply# 22 5/27/2014 at 00:33 (3,615 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona ) | ||
AH RIGHT!!! | ||
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