Thread Number: 52743
Tweaking Whirlpool Automatic Dryness Control |
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Post# 750533 , Reply# 1   4/16/2014 at 13:55 (3,633 days old) by imperial70 (MA USA)   |   | |
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Are you sure it's the dryness control and not clogged ductwork (internal to the dryer and external to the dryer)? My dryness control started doing that and I found that would warn me that I've waited too long to clean things out. |
Post# 750535 , Reply# 2   4/16/2014 at 16:00 (3,633 days old) by tsteves5 ()   |   | |
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I periodically check the ductwork and clean out the dryer. It's always done it. Even when the house (and ducts) were brand new. |
Post# 750627 , Reply# 3   4/17/2014 at 09:33 (3,632 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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The first thing to check is when you put a large load in the dryer the timer should not start advancing till the heater cuts off and that should be 15-45 minutes minimum, if it starts advancing immediately with the heater on you have a bad timer. the 2nd thing to check is weather the heater is cycling on the operating thromostat or the heater box safety thromostat, if it is cycling on the safety the dryer will cut off before the clothing is dry. If this is happening try running the dryer with no vent system attached for a 1/2 dozen loads and see how the AD cycle works.
These auto dry systems on WP dryers give almost no problems and generate almost no complaints in the field, almost always when we get this complaint the dryer is cycling on the heater box safety because of a bad exhaust system or problem within the dryer itself resulting in poor airflow over the heating element. I have never seen any reason to modify this system as there is a large range of dryness selections on the timer so that the dryer should always be able to dry any size load. Do keep in mind no auto dryness dryer is designed to dry all items in a load if you try to dry bath towels and sheets in the same load or if you try drying dress shirts with blue jeans, the dryer will shut off when the lighter items are dry. |
Post# 750634 , Reply# 4   4/17/2014 at 10:12 (3,632 days old) by KenmoreBD (Mass, usa )   |   | |
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Thanks for this thread, I have started using an 87 Whirpool Dryer and was kind of stuned to see the timer move when the dryer is off. I normally preset the drying cycle on the dryer when loading the washer, it spooked me to see timer move with dryer off. |
Post# 750746 , Reply# 6   4/17/2014 at 18:13 (3,632 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)   |   | |
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quick read thermometers, not thermostats. |
Post# 750804 , Reply# 10   4/17/2014 at 21:57 (3,632 days old) by tsteves5 ()   |   | |
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I also confirmed that the timer motor is 60 Hz. |
Post# 750868 , Reply# 11   4/18/2014 at 07:00 (3,632 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 750884 , Reply# 13   4/18/2014 at 08:22 (3,631 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Just to say ... the LDE7800 (super capacity Supreme 80, 1976 vintage) dryer we had often cycled on the hi-limit thermostat for a while when a large/heavy load was run (the timer advanced for the brief periods when the element cut-out). It would settle down and cycle on the operating 'stat *after* the load progressed a ways toward dryness. I was working summers at the local Whirlpool dealer (where it was bought) at the time and brought it to their attention. We did a "service call" to investigate, no obvious problem was found. Ted fashioned a sheet metal plug to cover the hole at top of the element duct, to no effect on the machine's behavior. |
Post# 750899 , Reply# 15   4/18/2014 at 10:14 (3,631 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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The exhaust on our aforementioned dryer was not excessive in length. The dryer was located perpendicular to an outside wall so the duct made one 90°F turn from the dryer and out the wall. I sometimes would clean the filter mid-way through when a large load of towels/cottons was running and causing the hi-limit cycling. As I said above, the dryer was disassembled, examined for bad seals, clogging, etc., and it still exhibited the behavior under some load conditions. Maybe we were overloading it but a washer load should be a dryer load and the machines were a matched pair. |
Post# 750902 , Reply# 16   4/18/2014 at 10:36 (3,631 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)   |   | |
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Post# 750914 , Reply# 17   4/18/2014 at 10:54 (3,631 days old) by tsteves5 ()   |   | |
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I replaced the dryer felt seals and the door seal a couple of years ago. It made no difference. |
Post# 750929 , Reply# 20   4/18/2014 at 11:46 (3,631 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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A WP dryer like this should NEVER be cycling on the safety thromostat, this is an unsafe condition.
You have one or more problems, Toms suggestion about possible clogging of the lint screen should be checked, but I suspect that the real culprit is the long exhaust system. You may also have slightly higher voltage than 240 volts which will also cause this type of problem especially with anything less than an ideal vent, you may also have a safety thromostat that is failing [ they often become too sensitive before they fail ] I would change it. Often when we have run in situations where the vent is long, voltage high etc I have installed a smaller heating element to make the dryer operate properly, improve durability of the heating element and most of all improve safety. |
Post# 750938 , Reply# 21   4/18/2014 at 12:32 (3,631 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)   |   | |
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Post# 750954 , Reply# 22   4/18/2014 at 13:50 (3,631 days old) by tsteves5 ()   |   | |
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John - I will check the voltage too. Just out of curiosity, do you know the part number for a smaller heating element? |
Post# 750955 , Reply# 23   4/18/2014 at 13:51 (3,631 days old) by tsteves5 ()   |   | |
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Malcolm - It's a top lint filter. |
Post# 751162 , Reply# 25   4/19/2014 at 09:52 (3,630 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)   |   | |
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You also have very high line voltage. You probably could get by with the smaller heater. John can give you the part no. That and a new hi limit thermostat should have your auto dry working properly. How many elbows do you have in the vent run, 2? |
Post# 751204 , Reply# 27   4/19/2014 at 12:12 (3,630 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)   |   | |
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The elbows are the problem. If you read the installation instructions, you will find that the air flow is too restricted. 15 feet of vent is a lot even with one elbow. |
Post# 751214 , Reply# 28   4/19/2014 at 12:44 (3,630 days old) by tsteves5 ()   |   | |
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There isn't anything that I can do to shorten or straighten that exhaust run. Maybe an exhaust booster would help if I can find one that will fit. |
Post# 751344 , Reply# 30   4/19/2014 at 23:59 (3,630 days old) by tsteves5 ()   |   | |
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I'm definitely on board with a smaller heating element. Just kicking around some other ideas too.
If anyone knows the part number of the smaller heater, I'm all ears. |
Post# 751833 , Reply# 32   4/22/2014 at 05:38 (3,628 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)   |   | |
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Wonderful news! I am glad for your success. |
Post# 752950 , Reply# 33   4/26/2014 at 18:11 (3,623 days old) by tsteves5 ()   |   | |
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I added a "check engine" light to the dryer. It comes on if the high limit thermostat opens up before the operating thermostat. It will help detect thermostat and air flow issues in the future. |
Post# 752954 , Reply# 34   4/26/2014 at 18:36 (3,623 days old) by KenmoreBD (Mass, usa )   |   | |
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Cool I like that warning light! Good luck with dryer I think I have the same model as you, did your dryer ever make the high pitched"whistle" when the lint trap was getting full? |
Post# 752955 , Reply# 35   4/26/2014 at 18:36 (3,623 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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