Thread Number: 52763
Hobart WM-1D dishwasher
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Post# 750735   4/17/2014 at 17:30 (3,632 days old) by mikeCL ()        

I could really use some help with this, first of all I don't know the age of it. But it's installed in a church with the external hot water heater.

First is I can't get it to pump any water into the dishwasher..

Second is the motor only hums for the cycle time.

And last is I can't find any info at all about this dishwasher and no manual.

I do have pictures but right now my internet is being crazy right now and it took me 5 min just to get to the create a new message thread here.

I do have a youtube video which should hopefully explain things









Post# 750745 , Reply# 1   4/17/2014 at 18:13 (3,632 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
Share some info

Mike,
Send or post the serial number and I can probably give you a ballpark idea of its creation date. Also, if you have the ML-Number, that will provide the exact parts manual you need and I may be able to help there too. Don't get your hopes up too high as they stopped making these in the very early 80's and not much is available for it from Hobart. Some parts are available. Getting water into it isn't too much of a problem so let's explore the possibilities..
If you put water into it manually, does it actually make more than a humming noise? It will sound like it's only humming if there is no water going in. And of course, is the water actually turned on? Maybe someone turned it off fearing that the water line may freeze???
Steve


Post# 750755 , Reply# 2   4/17/2014 at 18:48 (3,632 days old) by mikeCL ()        

Thanks Steve for the help, I was fearing no one knew anything about this :)

Now that my internet speeds are working this should be more help


Post# 750756 , Reply# 3   4/17/2014 at 18:50 (3,632 days old) by mikeCL ()        

Oh I forgot to say I haven't tried to put water in it manually yet but I will try again tonight.

Post# 750767 , Reply# 4   4/17/2014 at 19:38 (3,632 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
Start from the beginning

Mike, it sounds like your timer was in the middle of the cycle and was trying to fill for the short fill before the final rinse. Close and latch the door and let it finish the cycle. Once it stops, when you lift the latch, the timer will reset to the start position and will run thru a fill, wash, drain, short fill, drain, final fill and drain. There are 2 complete cycles in 360 degrees of rotation on the timer.
It also sounds like the motor is jammed. You may want to remove the wash arm(not an aerator) and then the part it sits on. That is called the wash arm support. Once off, you will see the wash pump impeller. See if it turns by hand. If it doesn't, then the motor is stuck and may need to re replaced.

You need to find out the story with the water supply. A WM-1D had dual fill fils, one for the wash which used building hot water and then the other one was supplied by the booster for 180 degree rinse. However, it was not unusual to see it plumbed to the booster for both wash and rinse.



Post# 750769 , Reply# 5   4/17/2014 at 19:47 (3,632 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
Age check

Based on what I can see of the serial number, I did not hit a direct match but the machine with serial ending in 878 was built in late 1987 which should put yours not too much older that that time.

These machines used all the same pump parts and drain parts as the Kitchenaid 16 and 17 series.
They actually had the same dual strainers as the Kitchenaids when they first were built but went to a redesigned wash arm support and a single stainless steel filter.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO stevet's LINK


Post# 750772 , Reply# 6   4/17/2014 at 19:59 (3,632 days old) by mikecl ()        

Does the wash arm just pull right up? Good to know it uses parts from another model, that's a relief.

Post# 750773 , Reply# 7   4/17/2014 at 20:03 (3,632 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
yes..but...

Make sure that you position the "X" so that it clears the rack supports on the side of the tank. Then just pull up by the hub not the arms and it should come out, It sounded like it was loose when you spun it.

If you want to get a feel for the spray action,look on youtube for videos of KD 15 16 or 17 series machines


Post# 750777 , Reply# 8   4/17/2014 at 20:24 (3,632 days old) by mikecl ()        

OK got the wash arm off but the motor is locked tight.

Post# 750785 , Reply# 9   4/17/2014 at 20:49 (3,632 days old) by mikecl ()        

Not so good news is the drain hose that connects to the drain line snapped the connection looks like corrosion.

Post# 750794 , Reply# 10   4/17/2014 at 21:22 (3,632 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
Can you be more specific?

Pics of what and where it broke?
Start l,ooking for a kd15/16/17 motor or pump. I bet you will find one here.


Post# 750799 , Reply# 11   4/17/2014 at 21:38 (3,632 days old) by mikecl ()        

I hope this works I'm not at home.

Post# 750801 , Reply# 12   4/17/2014 at 21:46 (3,632 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
problem...

That part is so expensive from Hobart and only Hobart. You may want to try to solder it back together but may be better off going to a good plumbing store and take it with you and they should have something similar to it in brass, chrome or pvc. It may not be exactly like it but for all intents and purposes, this is a gravity drain machine. It can be drained into a drain line into the wall but not many homes or places are set up to line up with this setup.

Post# 750814 , Reply# 13   4/17/2014 at 23:22 (3,632 days old) by mikeCL ()        

I might try and solder it instead.. what I have a hard time finding out is removing the dishwasher from under the canbet.. I assume it's all hard lines? The booster is taking up my room from seeing what I need to see.

I think I saw a KDS-17 on youtube.. it's arms looked the same but the flow rate was impressive!

The other dishwasher we have is a kitchenaid KDI-18 That one does work, I did not get to put any dishes in it since I did not have anything to put in the dispenser.

So I assume the whole locked up motor issue is the bearing? It's not possible to free it up? It really stinks of mildew inside of the washer.


Post# 750936 , Reply# 14   4/18/2014 at 12:20 (3,631 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
Not a bad job

to change the bearings on one of these motors.It can be done a number of ways but they all require that the motor be removed from the tank which is not all that bad.

Send me an email and I will provide you my phone number and we can discuss the whole process. Meanwhile, I will look for a parts manual for you and scan it so yu will have it at your side!
Steve


Post# 751081 , Reply# 15   4/18/2014 at 23:20 (3,631 days old) by mikeCL ()        

Hey Steve I sent you a email if I do the bearings would they be easy to find?

Also I looked a bit harder behind the limited space of the DW and I did see two lines but it's hard to say where it's going.. One of the lines comes from under the sink to the DW and the other goes to the booster.

I assume the water fill is a solenoid operated?


Post# 751297 , Reply# 16   4/19/2014 at 19:13 (3,630 days old) by mikecl ()        

Steve here are some pictures I took yesterday.

Post# 751298 , Reply# 17   4/19/2014 at 19:17 (3,630 days old) by mikecl ()        

The black hose is from the booster pressure relief valve.

Sorry The picture got rotated sideways


Post# 751855 , Reply# 18   4/22/2014 at 07:28 (3,628 days old) by mikecl ()        

Will try and start unbolting the parts to get the motor out. Meanwhile try and figure out the water flow.

Post# 751923 , Reply# 19   4/22/2014 at 13:24 (3,627 days old) by mikecl ()        

Around 3 min you see black water come from the inlet. Water will always fill inside the DW unless water is turned off.. Can't find booster water valve yet..

Hobart dishwasher:




CLICK HERE TO GO TO mikecl's LINK


Post# 751991 , Reply# 20   4/22/2014 at 19:27 (3,627 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
This just keeps growing!

Figured I would answer your email here since you sent the same video to me earlier in the day.

First,you need to disconnect the pump power by disconnecting the black and white wires that come out of it. If you ever intend to use it, you don't want to keep cooking the windings and the start switch contacts.Remember, I told you that you can't buy that start switch anymore!

Second, your fill valve diaphragm is shot and that is why it is leaking.So make plans to rebuild or replace both of the valves as the second rinse valve will probably be just as bad.

Third,you photographed the supply valve for the booster a few days ago so you will need to turn that on to see if the water will run thru the booster and how well the second fill valve works.

The normal sequence is fill with valve 1 and wash pump runs, then drain solenoid opens(pump running at same time), then it closes and then valve 2 opens to partially fill and then drain snaps open again, then valve 2 opens to fill completely and then the drain solenoid opens again to drain it. The pump stops as the timer comes to the end of its cycle.

I told you that the timer has 2 complete cycles within 360 degrees of rotation. It will stop cycle 1 at 180. If you unlatch the door which you did at the end of the video, it will advance to start another cycle as seen in your clip. The machine doesn't care if the door is opened or not, it has a switch mounted at the latch to make the timer ready itself to start again as soon as the door is closed and latched.


The black stuff could be crap inside your building plumbing or the diaphragm as well. All you need is a piece of galvanized or black pipe somewhere in your water line that someone may have used in a pinch and you can get the black stuff coming out. But getting the machine working is the first priority.

In all honesty, Mike, you will probably have a much easier time pulling the machine out when you are really ready to tackle this project. You have too much stuff to fix in a very small area in which to work and it is much easier to be able to attack it from all four sides and to even turn it over if need be.(please remove the wash arm before turning it over)

You know how to reach me if you need to as well as anyone else here on the forum.
This should be enough to ponder for you for now!

Later
Steve


Post# 752008 , Reply# 21   4/22/2014 at 20:16 (3,627 days old) by mikecl ()        

I did find in the blueprints of the pluming the booster hookup while I'm not home right now I took pictures of the solenoids valves. I noticed is the booster must be on the same line, if I open the valve the water entering in the DW slows, when I close the valve on the booster it begins to build in the booster but can't fully because of the valve leak.

Post# 752044 , Reply# 22   4/22/2014 at 22:50 (3,627 days old) by mikeCL ()        

Ok here are the pictures

Post# 752045 , Reply# 23   4/22/2014 at 22:51 (3,627 days old) by mikeCL ()        

And one more

Post# 752112 , Reply# 24   4/23/2014 at 10:31 (3,627 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
A real Nightmare!

Those line strainers in front of the water valves look like they are cast iron instead of brass, You do NOT want to touch those clamps as the screws will probably break. The actual solenoids are the older style 3/8" Asco valves. I will check to see if there are still rebuilding kits available thru Hobart for you. You will definitely want to pull the machine out to rebuild and replace those parts.
They are flanged to the inlet piping so those 2 bolts on the egg shaped pieces will come out and the flanges will separate. You will need o-rings to reseal them when put back together.
Like I said before, this is not a quick fix project until you get it out and really look it over and determine if you can handle it.


Post# 752183 , Reply# 25   4/23/2014 at 18:40 (3,626 days old) by mikeCL ()        

I was doing more searching since they were good with keeping everthing I found these two things.. Looks like the DW was serviced in '85 but the person wirting did not press hard enough on the carbon copy so I can't make out what was serviced.

It wont be untill few weeks until I can look at this due to all the moving around, I want to store and work on it in a storage closet so once everything dies down I will start.

And I agree Steve it would be far better to have full asess of the DW you can move much faster by just having enough room.

I thank you again for the info you given me on the phone, having said that the health inspector like you said will test the water temp as I saw his report on the dishwasher which I only saw up to the year 2000.

I'm ok doing this I just hate working in limted space because of no freedom of movement.


Post# 753033 , Reply# 26   4/27/2014 at 01:30 (3,623 days old) by mikeCL ()        

Oh boy.. so I guess me turning on the water valve under the sink.. it now causes a very tiny waterflow stream into the DW now.. so now the DW is always full of water the next day after you drain it..

Post# 753092 , Reply# 27   4/27/2014 at 11:38 (3,622 days old) by ectofix ()        

That's an easy fix compared to your Hobart machine. That orange-handled gate valve (feeding the pressure reducing valve) in your picture in Post# 751297 probably just needs a new rubber washer. Any hardware store can hook you up. I recommend taking it apart and take the parts you removed with you to the hardware store.





Post# 753476 , Reply# 28   4/28/2014 at 16:22 (3,621 days old) by mikecl ()        

Found the shut off maybe next week I might be able to free it under the sink.

Hey Steve I've been running the other DW and I noticed I can't turn the motor by hand as well.. At least the spindle part. Any info on how much it pumps a min and its psi?


Post# 755787 , Reply# 29   5/8/2014 at 19:27 (3,611 days old) by MIKECL ()        

Yikes.. I'm not really sure how I can get to the two pipes to the back of the DW.. I have my tools ready to take it apart but because the side of the sink just has a cutout for the drain, water inlet and pressure valve the rest is all solid metal.. My only other option is to cut a section out of the metal under the sink.. I can't swing my tools from the booster side because it's on the far end and narrow.

It seems like the sink was installed around the DW and any repairs to it or line disconnection was a afterthought.

I turned the main water valve off for the DW so no more filling up when it's not on, not sure if you had any luck looking for info on the solenoid valves.


Post# 755791 , Reply# 30   5/8/2014 at 19:45 (3,611 days old) by MIKECL ()        

Ok I think I will just disconnect from the booster and do it that way.. hopfully will be able to pull it out before I leave.

Post# 755804 , Reply# 31   5/8/2014 at 21:25 (3,611 days old) by MIKECL ()        

Ok it's out! I have the info on the solenoid valves

The conduit had lots of rust so I will be replacing that.

[IMG]i57.tinypic.com/2rrl8ic.jpg[/IMG]...
[IMG]i60.tinypic.com/2ajqmxl.jpg[/IMG]...


Post# 755887 , Reply# 32   5/9/2014 at 09:55 (3,611 days old) by mikecl ()        

Motor is out! That part was pretty easy

Post# 755899 , Reply# 33   5/9/2014 at 11:58 (3,610 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
Gorgeous!

Who wouldn't want one of these in their kitchen today? A Classic beauty in the best of Hobart tradition.
Mike, I emailed you on some of your questions.
Steve


Post# 755912 , Reply# 34   5/9/2014 at 13:46 (3,610 days old) by MIKECL ()        

It's cleaning up pretty well I cleaned the front door.. the mirror finish is amazing for the age!

I think the picture speaks for it's self


This is the part I got stuck on now

[img]i59.tinypic.com/2agkrvd.jpg[/img]...


Post# 755914 , Reply# 35   5/9/2014 at 13:55 (3,610 days old) by MIKECL ()        

Btw Steve are you sugesting I get new solenoid valves instead?

Post# 755984 , Reply# 36   5/9/2014 at 20:51 (3,610 days old) by mikeCL ()        

Well because I can't get the drain pump off because of the last screw and my impact screwdriver is not helping on this one.. I may have to drill it out..

meanwhile I took off the cover on the underside of the motor and that bearing is fine and spins freely.


Post# 756133 , Reply# 37   5/10/2014 at 17:19 (3,609 days old) by MIKECL ()        

Well got the motor apart but I lost the fan on the motor, I still have the shims

I assume because of all that the motor is no longer good? No fan replacements.. it keeps telling me the number has changed.. on each thing which ends up taking me to a $500 motor and gasket set.


Post# 756286 , Reply# 38   5/11/2014 at 10:23 (3,609 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
Pricey...Yes...but

You are probably looking at the Hobart issued replacement motor for it. That is a complete motor kit with the starting capacitor and is an Emerson sourced motor similar in design to the Emerson square sided motors that first appeared on the Kitchenaids in the 21 series. Eventually, all the older round Hobart/Kitchenaid motors were replaced by the square sided models. They had one for the WM series and another for the WM-5 series which was the same as the motors that replaced the KD 18 thru 20 series motors as well as being used in the Hobart SR24 series commercial machines which were produced up until late last year.

As you know, you can get the motor for you machine on Ebay so make sure that you get yourself one for a much more reasonable cost.


Post# 756319 , Reply# 39   5/11/2014 at 13:42 (3,608 days old) by mikecl ()        

Yes I will be getting that motor and will be ordering the drain pump. I don't remember if I sent you the pictures but one line strainer was fully blocked and the other had that black stuff.

Post# 756324 , Reply# 40   5/11/2014 at 14:19 (3,608 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
Got therm!

Yes, I got the pictures of the line strainers. I figured it was a non issue as you said you would be ordering the new style valves with the built-in strainers.

Post# 756328 , Reply# 41   5/11/2014 at 15:01 (3,608 days old) by MIKECL ()        

But what is that black stuff? And how can I prevent that from happening again? I did end up buying that motor and will order the drain pump tomorrow morning.. Now I was at home depot today and I looked at that Lquid tight conduit and the sizes they have are way.. way too thick for where it's going.. but I don't want to use that flexable metal conduit again.

Also did you say not to use stranded 14 AWG or solid?


Post# 756332 , Reply# 42   5/11/2014 at 15:15 (3,608 days old) by MIKECL ()        

Oh.. One more thing I picked up a metal tailpeice for the dishwasher.. the orginal was 6 inches long and the new one is 8 inches so I will get a pipe cutter to cut it to size.

Feeling good things are starting to go into motion now.



Post# 756344 , Reply# 43   5/11/2014 at 16:25 (3,608 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
Good move, Mike

You should be able to make it work just fine and in metal, you won't have to worry about the hi rinse temp water warping it like a pvc fitting.
The project is moving along.


Post# 756359 , Reply# 44   5/11/2014 at 18:19 (3,608 days old) by mikeCL ()        

Yeah at first I picked up the PVC but then thought about the drain temp, I think I should be OK with that PVC nut to the trap, the guy game me one that was 1 1/2" but it was too small to fit the pipe so I ended up getting the PCV one because it was the only one the store had that fits.

Any sugestions on detergent? I had bubble bandit in mind


Post# 756689 , Reply# 45   5/13/2014 at 07:24 (3,607 days old) by mikecl ()        

One question the tailpeice I got has the drain pipe a little bigger so the stock hose won't fit.. My question is the hose to motor will a larger hose be a issue?

Post# 756734 , Reply# 46   5/13/2014 at 12:18 (3,606 days old) by mikeCL ()        

Picked up 25 Ft of AC for the power I decided to hold off on the pipe cutter for the time being due to the fact I can't really do anything yet.

I'm not sure if I should order new screws? I see they are like $3 or so each at Hobart..


Post# 756778 , Reply# 47   5/13/2014 at 17:02 (3,606 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
So many questions...

Here are some answers..
Get the screws from Ace hardware in Stainless Steel. If they don,t have the exact ones, then you may have to go to Hobart as they do have a shoulder on them. Remember to put anti-sieze on them so you can get them out another day.
You should be able to use a 5/8" heater hose from the auto parts store for the drain line fron the drain valve to the tailpiece. Just make sure you use screw type hose clamps, not the spring type that the machine may have come with.
As I told you in one of our phone conversations, domestic detergents are made to work slowly and they will not power thru the food on the dishes in the 3 minutes it has to do the cycle. There are powdered detergents out there like Commercial Cascade you can buy. They used to sell a powdered detergent in large bags but they can go rock hard if not used quickly or stored properly. You CAN install a detergent feeder for a liquid as well as a rinse agent feeder. Ecolab can provide that equipment aand the detergent and rinse agent.
The power feed for the detergent is taken off the first fill solenoid terminal and the rinse agent actually has a terminal on the timer to connect to.

Bubble Bandit won't do in this machine.You can use it upstairs in the domestic unit.


Post# 756795 , Reply# 48   5/13/2014 at 19:01 (3,606 days old) by MIKECL ()        

I was going to try the local hardware place I just did not know if they would have it as you noted because of the sholder.. I think they should have it however.. Good call on the heater hose I did not think about that one I will have to check that out. The Ecolab sounds pricy.. Is it some type of automated control or something? We wont be washing everyday, I'd say maybe every 3 weeks at the most.. which will pick up in Aug to almost every day.

Post# 756802 , Reply# 49   5/13/2014 at 19:25 (3,606 days old) by MIKECL ()        

Holy cow that hatco temp gauge was a pain to get off.. took lots of heat and PB blaster.. I ordered a replaced guage today.. part of pipe fitting came off due to the forces, but I can fix that.



Post# 756813 , Reply# 50   5/13/2014 at 20:24 (3,606 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
Hatco Gauge

Mike, I guess you didn't hear me whenwe talked on the phone the other day.I said that I had a few new spare Hatco gauges and would send you one if you wanted it. Impulse buying is expensive! Can you cancel it?

Post# 756822 , Reply# 51   5/13/2014 at 21:11 (3,606 days old) by mikecl ()        

Ah shoot I forgot about that.. I'm afraid it's too late as it shipped already. I think it was around $27 or so

Post# 756976 , Reply# 52   5/14/2014 at 17:36 (3,605 days old) by mikeCL ()        

Motor will be in Friday so at least I have a date now! And the shipping for ground with UPS is fast only a day which is nice to know.

Post# 757259 , Reply# 53   5/15/2014 at 20:49 (3,604 days old) by MIKECL ()        

Question say I got a ecolab dispenser where would it connect? I assume it would tie in before the solnolid as far as the commercial cascade I can't seem to locate any but I noticed a few ecolab dispensers on ebay and was wondering if something like this would be good?

Post# 757292 , Reply# 54   5/15/2014 at 21:24 (3,604 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
Didn't I tell you where

in an email I sent back to you?
It should be an easy hook up but would likely need calibration by an ecolab tech.
You would probably be better off having them do the whole thing since as long as you buy the detergent and rinse agent from them they will install and maintain the equipment for free.
As far as the commercial Cascade goes, you can purchase it from GFS (Gordon Food Service) stores which are popping up all over or online. You won't find it in a supermarket.

Sadly they have reformulated it without phosphates like there older product.I have not tried it yet but the older formulation worked well and defintiely had chlorine bleach in it and wiped out stains well.


Post# 757295 , Reply# 55   5/15/2014 at 21:58 (3,604 days old) by mikeCL ()        

See they are not looking for any extra expense, and having ecolab to come in and set that up they would not go for that, remember I'm fixing this dishwasher with my own out of pocket money.

The only reason why I asked about the ecolab was I can see someone putting normal powder or a tablet in the dishwasher not know it's just a 4 min cycle.

I will say if cacade dropped the phosphorus in the commercial version then what are commercial users using now for powder degergent?


Post# 757346 , Reply# 56   5/16/2014 at 07:33 (3,604 days old) by mitch (Atlanta)        
Zep Chemical

Make a powdered product called Zepomatic that seems to be old school. Grainger and other places list it.

Most interesting thread--good luck!

Mitch


CLICK HERE TO GO TO mitch's LINK


Post# 757358 , Reply# 57   5/16/2014 at 08:16 (3,604 days old) by MIKECL ()        

Yeah I grew up around a lot of Hobart stuff so I have respect for them, anyone else would of just tossed this :(

I would guess by the time I'm done I will have spent around $400 out of pocket not really worried about that I rather see this fine DW back in service.

I will check out the stuff at Grainger, thanks for the tip!


Post# 757361 , Reply# 58   5/16/2014 at 08:35 (3,604 days old) by MIKECL ()        

Hmm I see a powder zep product on Grainger but it's not the same product number, the only two places I've seen is on a medical supply place.

Post# 757777 , Reply# 59   5/17/2014 at 22:06 (3,602 days old) by mikeCL ()        

Finally Donated here :-)

Picked up the motor today, it should of been here on Friday but it did not arrive at the post office until this morning, I was lucky enough to have them give it to me without having to wait until Monday because they wont leave it at my door step.

After all this, it's just the valves and extend the copper and that's pretty much it!



Post# 757795 , Reply# 60   5/18/2014 at 00:50 (3,602 days old) by dustin92 (Jackson, MI)        

You could TRY regular Cascade gel, it has chlorine bleach in it so should work pretty much the same as the Commercial Cascade powder. I know the hot water and high pressure does most of the cleaning. For a while, the liquid detergent despenser on the dishwasher at our church had stopped working and we just poured a bit of bleach in at the start of each cycle- It did a fine job of cleaning and the bleach was just to kill off any nasties, although the 185°f final rinse probably took care of that :)

Post# 758539 , Reply# 61   5/21/2014 at 05:50 (3,599 days old) by mikecl ()        

Thanks to Steve for sending me replacement drain pump bolts and a new temp/pressure gauge! I will start putting this stuff in today.

Post# 758570 , Reply# 62   5/21/2014 at 09:38 (3,599 days old) by MIKECL ()        

So working with the motor now and it's NICE that the parts bag was included in the price of the motor.. and it was un-opened! but what I noticed is when I was banging the old motor apart to get the old pump housing off the shims must of flew off someplace in the storage room where I was working.. Now to get this right the shim is what keeps enough pressure on the ring? the parts bag came with a lot of stuff so I just wanted to know what I should be looking for and what should be at what thickness level.

And thanks again Steve for the screws.. that was my biggest stumbing block, they were OOS on the Hobart parts site and trying to find some with the excact thread pitch and lenth and head was a bit of hassle. I did make sure to put anti-seize on them however so it wont happen again.


Post# 758589 , Reply# 63   5/21/2014 at 11:27 (3,598 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
SHIMS....

Mike

I will send you the shimming instructions when I get home. They are actually different diameters so you have to use the correct ones in the correct places. The instructions will also give you the dimensions for the correct working ht of the wash impeller as well. remember, I said you could do it on your ktichen table with a set of feeler gauges so sit tight and we will get this set up for you.


Post# 758605 , Reply# 64   5/21/2014 at 12:58 (3,598 days old) by MIKECL ()        

Ok I have plenty of feeler gauges so I will wait for the instructions. Wished I remembered to bring my calapers today.. I assume the way the service manual lists the numbers is the order they should go in?



This post was last edited 05/21/2014 at 15:51
Post# 758721 , Reply# 65   5/21/2014 at 20:22 (3,598 days old) by mikeCL ()        

Well since I'm home now I'm just going to use my calipers, if I run into any issues I will let you know.

Post# 758738 , Reply# 66   5/21/2014 at 21:22 (3,598 days old) by mikeCL ()        

Seems to be right

it's stacked in this order from lower to the top

.005"
.015"
.030"
.048"

I got the email from Steve looks like I will need to screw the wash impeller down in order to make sure it's correct.


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This post was last edited 05/21/2014 at 22:26
Post# 758743 , Reply# 67   5/21/2014 at 21:28 (3,598 days old) by cuffs054 (MONTICELLO, GA)        

Can y'all help me the the concept of using shims? I realize they are "spacers" of a sort but why not mill the pieces to fit without them?

Post# 758744 , Reply# 68   5/21/2014 at 21:34 (3,598 days old) by mikeCL ()        

Correct me if I'm wrong but from what I searched around here it's to deal with the pump pressure and seal when the wash arm is on.

Now as to why and not just mill the parts that's a good question.


Post# 758882 , Reply# 69   5/22/2014 at 11:50 (3,597 days old) by MIKECL ()        

Oh boy did I have it all wrong lol.. Steve had to help me with this one turns out the really biggest shimming was going to be for the wash impeller and the feeler gauge really helps on this, so as in the service manual he sent me with a feeler laying across the body and the wash impeller .025" should touch the impeller and .015" should clear it without touching so finally I got it like that by using a single .030" shim for the wash impeller.

Also those marks on the impeller is that machining marks or wear?


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Post# 758979 , Reply# 70   5/22/2014 at 18:51 (3,597 days old) by MIKECL ()        

Today was pretty slow, between helping a friend move stuff on a moving truck and getting the shims right so the clerance is right the motor is finally mounted in the DW now, so I just came back from Home Depot to get some clear plastic sheeting and some tape.

So hopfully we will not leak any water and the pump pressure will be good.

Having said that I STILL forgot those screw clamps.. I gotta go back to the store anyways after work in the morning.. I guess that's the good things by working the graveyard shift the stores are not that busy in the morning.

So I have the DW in a state to put water in it so I hope I can post back with some good news! :)


Post# 758984 , Reply# 71   5/22/2014 at 19:57 (3,597 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
not machne marks

Mike, the impellers were molded and smooth. Somthing must have gotten in there and scraped it up. Not to worry. You should have plenty of pressure when it gets put back together.

Post# 759000 , Reply# 72   5/22/2014 at 21:13 (3,597 days old) by MIKECL ()        

Holy cow I underestimated the hurricane in a box I had a hard time keeping the tape down and sealed.. I ran it free standing so water was also shooting out of the overflow tube

It sounds so sweet washing, i filled the DW with 140F water I did let it sit, I did not notice any leaks, water from the splashing seems to be dripping near the motor but I will doubble check on that.

Well that's it for today another Hobart saved! Now I do need to call Hobart to see if I can get a ETA on those valves or order or whatever, should be $120 for the two of them.

Now I must clean up my mess of water on the floor.








Nice those valves are in stock now! Well wait a sec.. it will let me add one but not two of them, it will say Limited Stock Available.

That's a little odd.




This post was last edited 05/22/2014 at 23:34
Post# 762061 , Reply# 73   6/7/2014 at 09:21 (3,582 days old) by MIKECL ()        

Might have to complete this near the end of this month Also for the drain I think this is what I'm going to do.. keep the orginal from the drain solenoid to the old hose then put a hose barb to the larger drain hose to fit on the DW drain



Post# 762131 , Reply# 74   6/7/2014 at 18:24 (3,581 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
You're back!

I was wondering what happened to you! I figured that you got it all back together and was showing it off to everyone who came into the kitchen!

Post# 762561 , Reply# 75   6/9/2014 at 18:19 (3,579 days old) by MIKECL ()        

Hah not yet Steve it's still sitting in my office

Post# 779423 , Reply# 76   8/25/2014 at 22:47 (3,502 days old) by mikeCL ()        

Steve do you happen to have the part number for those new valves again? I seem to have misplaced the email which is odd because I don't remember deleting any of it. I've gotta get this dishwasher out of my office space LOL

Post# 781748 , Reply# 77   9/5/2014 at 20:30 (3,491 days old) by mikeCL ()        

The valves came in so i'm a bit confused on how the stock setup is so I'm looking at adding about 5 inches of new copper?

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Post# 781756 , Reply# 78   9/5/2014 at 20:41 (3,491 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
Improvise!

Mike, IIRC, the original valves sat in a single bracket next to each other. See if the new ones will fit the bracket even if they are in there loosely. You will probably have to come up with a way to make them stay in line and not flop around.

Try to use as much of the original plumbing that went from the outlets of the valves to the manifold that holds the bulb for the temp gauge. That should be a solid start and then add some new copper tubing and compression fittings to the inlet sides and you should be okay.

Remember that the wire from the timer marked "fill 1" gets connected to the building supply and the wire marked "fill 2" gets connected to the line from the Hatco booster.


Post# 781759 , Reply# 79   9/5/2014 at 21:01 (3,491 days old) by mikeCL ()        

But I'm still having to get rid of the old Wye strainers I think they are 3/4" but they sit back a ways from where the old asco valves used to be.

Hopfully it wont be too much to get the old stuff off


Post# 781851 , Reply# 80   9/6/2014 at 11:27 (3,490 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)        
Out with the old..

In with the new!
Get rid of everything from the Asco Valves back to and including the old WYE strainers. The new valves have their own built in strainers. You may have to use some of the old pipes to be able to mount them in the brackets.
Check the parts breakdown again to be sure.


Post# 782032 , Reply# 81   9/6/2014 at 22:17 (3,490 days old) by MIKECL ()        

OK had a busy day.. came to work on the dishwasher and ended up dealing with flooding in one of the rooms due to a storm :(

But I figured since I was here lets start with it.. OK so after a little luquid wrench I got the old stuff off.. I do have a little problem getting the last wye straner off from one of the copper lines.. but I hope they have a 1/2 to 3/4 connection at the very least I can make one as the connections to the wye strainers were 3/4.

And to make the pipe a little longer does not seem like it will be much of an issue

So this is where we stand now



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Post# 782037 , Reply# 82   9/6/2014 at 22:28 (3,490 days old) by MIKECL ()        

Got the connections made.. good thing the wires themself are labeled F1 & F2 I still need to get a adapter fitting for the drain due to the new Y-pipe drain having a larger opening then the old one that broke.

Post# 782345 , Reply# 83   9/8/2014 at 12:46 (3,488 days old) by MIKECL ()        

Ok ran into a bit of a snag.. this time it's back to that drain hose.. so the new drain a 7/8" ID hose is what fits but I think the hose that connects to the drain solenoid is 1/2" ID? My question is how do I connect the two?

Post# 784782 , Reply# 84   9/20/2014 at 19:57 (3,476 days old) by mikeCL ()        

Ok I cut the copper pipe a tad too short and water for F1 it's at a odd angle should not too be hard to fix I hope by the end of the month it will be in place LOL


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