Thread Number: 5437
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Post# 115736   3/16/2006 at 21:36 (6,587 days old) by westytoploader ()        

I installed the new cord on the '55 Maytag 101P today. The motor runs quietly, and both the timer and mega-solenoid work. I primed the pump with hot water, per Robert's advice, and even though it's a little rough, it works. The water valve even buzzes, though I'm not sure of its operating condition yet. And the light still works in the control panel!!

However, even though I somewhat expected it, I was still disappointed. Ready for the bad news? It won't spin. I can hear the loud "BANG" of the solenoid, but it keeps right on agitating. I talked to Robert on the phone and he thought it was a bad T-key. Hopefully it's not a bad torque spring. So there WAS a reason why this machine was put in the closet early on!

I was able to defeat the safety lid mercury switch successfully. Here are some pictures...and an explanation on how the lid-mounted water level control works...quite simple really!





Post# 115737 , Reply# 1   3/16/2006 at 21:37 (6,587 days old) by westytoploader ()        

Under the lid...

Post# 115738 , Reply# 2   3/16/2006 at 21:37 (6,587 days old) by westytoploader ()        

Under the lid 2

Post# 115739 , Reply# 3   3/16/2006 at 21:38 (6,587 days old) by westytoploader ()        

Under the lid 3

Post# 115742 , Reply# 4   3/16/2006 at 21:48 (6,587 days old) by mayken4now (Panama City, Florida)        

mayken4now's profile picture
Austin:

Try to run it on Damp Dry without any water in the machine. Wait until it has been unplugged for about 24 hours, then try it. See if it will spin then. If it has set up for so many years, it just may need some running and use to create full operation.

Steve


Post# 115751 , Reply# 5   3/16/2006 at 21:58 (6,587 days old) by westytoploader ()        

Almost forgot to add...

Afterwards, I washed a nice "stress relief" load in the WO-65-2 with Tide and some DIRTY rags from the AMP!


Post# 115754 , Reply# 6   3/16/2006 at 22:01 (6,587 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Very nice picturs Austin, glad you got the pump running. I would put any water into the inner tub until you can get the machine to spin.

If someone removed the T-Key and put it back incorrectly that also could cause the machine not to spin. Did you get your service manual yet? I would study the section on removing and installing the T-Key first, this is sort of a pain to do, and if its not done right, no spin. There are a few other things to check, like is the solenoid bracket attached to the shifter level properly?


Post# 115755 , Reply# 7   3/16/2006 at 22:02 (6,587 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
I would put any water into the inner tub until you can get the machine to spin.

I meant to say I WOULD NOT.


Post# 115758 , Reply# 8   3/16/2006 at 22:07 (6,587 days old) by westytoploader ()        

Hi Robert,

I have a 1965 Maytag "Repair-Master" on its way (supposedly this covers many AMP procedures alongside the Helical Drive) as well as the other manuals from Greg...haven't received it yet. Jerry H. in Ohio did send me a new boot that arrived today, at least I have one just in case.

I believe Greg mentioned to me on the phone that he was putting together a goodie box for you as well; now we can both tease him about not sending them out yet! ;-)


Post# 115766 , Reply# 9   3/16/2006 at 22:43 (6,587 days old) by brettsomers ()        

There simply MUST be a video made with the AMP processing a good load of clothes. David

Post# 115767 , Reply# 10   3/16/2006 at 22:47 (6,587 days old) by golittlesport (California)        

golittlesport's profile picture
Thanks for the pictures, Austin. I could never quite get the Maytag AMP water level control...duh! I understood the agitator cap floated up and tripped the switch, but didn't get how different water levels worked. Now I know. Thanks. I came home from a rough day at work yesterday and washed a load in my 55 Unimatic...total stress relief!

Post# 115768 , Reply# 11   3/16/2006 at 22:51 (6,587 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        
Hey Austin -

swestoyz's profile picture
Nice progress here! Thanks for the detailed photos of the lid assembly, and the lit control panel! I'm not very versed on the AMP, but found this scan from the Maytag Auto Washer repair manual very useful in trouble shooting your issue. I couldn't find my Maytag Master's manual to see if it was this detailed - I don't remember it being so.

Sounds like Robert is on the money with this one. Looking forward to the next step - under the skirt!

Ben


Post# 115771 , Reply# 12   3/16/2006 at 22:59 (6,586 days old) by westytoploader ()        

Thanks Ben for the illustration...this looks like a job (calling Geoff Delp; where are ya?).

Will have to wait for the manuals to proceed further; in the meantime I can get my GE Dispensall running and installed when the parts arrive.


Post# 115840 , Reply# 13   3/17/2006 at 08:32 (6,586 days old) by geoffdelp (SAUK RAPIDS)        

Hi Austin ... I'm here!! Yes, I pulled my "T" key out last summer and turned it upside down and reinstalled it. One side was sort of "flat". It worked like a charm; the machine would go into spin after that. I remember using a very thin needle-nosed pliers to do this. Be careful to not turn the tub when you remove the key. Just remove the key, turn it upside down, and reinstall it. Then try it in spin again. A friend of mine who worked on these in his Dad's Maytag shop said that the "T" key was the biggest culprit in non-spinning tubs. He said they went through a lot of them.

Robert told me about the T key, too. I think that if the key hadn't been turned over before (which mine hadn't; one side was still new) you could get a lot more life out of the other side. The other side of my key looked like new.

The trick is lining it all back up when reinstalling the key. You have to push the collar back up so you can see where the key goes. I tilted the machine and set it on bricks to do this. It was easier for me to get the collar to stay up to reinsert the key.

I, on the other hand, turned the tub with the key out!! I then had to turn the tub by hand to get the Drive Tube to line up with the collar so I could reinstall the key. It was a hassle because you turned the tub just a little bit then had to check the Drive Tube; you then turned the tub a little bit ... etc.

I wish that I had brought my repair manual to work with me today!!

It sounds worse than it is; I was afraid I'd get it apart and couldn't get it back together (like the water valve!!).

Good luck, Austin; you are a smart guy and I know you can get this dear washer working again! It's too beautiful to not to!!!! That's how I feel about mine.

I want to make a short video of my 101P, my Porta-Washer, and one of my wringers to put on the website. I have to get some video equipment first, however.


Post# 115948 , Reply# 14   3/17/2006 at 19:48 (6,586 days old) by trainguy (Key West, FL)        
Mine Has The Same Symptoms

trainguy's profile picture
Jimmy gave me a 102P a few years ago with the same problem. It tries to spin but only goes about 20rpm. Once the weather breaks, I'll turn the key around and hope for the best.

Post# 116100 , Reply# 15   3/18/2006 at 21:34 (6,585 days old) by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
Austin

jetcone's profile picture
Thanks for the clear explanation of the float mechanism, its better than the manuals.
I have the factory manual on this tranny, would you like a copy? Or do you have one already?

Jon



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