Why did my new kd-18 motor burn up? wiring diagram is wrong?


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Thread Number: 55606
Why did my new kd-18 motor burn up? wiring diagram is wrong?

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Post# 779958 8/28/2014 at 18:19 (3,526 days old) by ilovemykds-19 ()
Checkrate/Likes KitchenAid Superba KDS-19 INCREDIBLY-AWESOME-AMAZING dishwasher has been soooo good to us, since we got it over 30 years ago. The motor started getting pretty loud from worn bearings, so we bought a new pump/motor kit #4171686 to replace our Hobart KD-18 motor. The new kit comes with a starter relay that must be wired in with the new motor. PLEASE bear with me here. It might get a little confusing, but I DESPERATELY need some help with this. Here's the problem: The old motor has 3 wires - 1 black, 1 green, and 1 YELLOW. The black wire goes up towards the timer in the door; the green is grounded to a screw; the >> plugs into a lead on the drain valve. Piece of cake, right? Well, the diagram with the new kit shows a crappy picture of what they think my old motor's wires are hooked up to, and their picture shows my YELLOW wire being a WHITE wire going to the drain valve. No big deal, right? Maybe they just made a little mistake and wrote down that the wire is white and not yellow, which in reality it is actually yellow. The new motor has 4 wires - 1 black, 1 green, 1 yellow, and 1 white. The crappy pencil-drawn, faded-out wiring diagram in the kit shows Black being the same, Green being the same, ... ... WHITE to 1 starter-motor relay lead, YELLOW to another starter-motor relay lead, then use the kit-included jumper wire to go from the third starter-motor relay lead TO the drain valve lead (remember that the old motor connected a YELLOW to the drain valve). This wiring didn't quite make sense to me, having the new motor's White and Yellow going to the relay and then a jumper wire going to the drain valve, but I did what the diagram showed because hey, what do I know, right? I powered up the dishwasher. I pressed the Normal Wash button. The motor immediately started up (normally it fills with water and the Sani-Heat comes on til it gets to 150deg and THEN the washing starts) and started burning. I shut it down and inspected the motor. Some of the copper coils are black and the whole kitchen stinks like burnt wires/rubber. So, I don't know why the motor immediately burnt up, but something isn't right. Yes, I primed the pump with a couple gallons of hot water. Yes, the new motor's shaft spun effortlessly and quietly when I hand-spun it to check the bearings before installing it. No, there aren't any leaks, thanks to the new seals in the kit. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE can someone help me? I thought I would try to take apart my old motor to see if the bearings are serviceable/replaceable, or if maybe I could switch out the new motor's bearings into the old motor, but I can't seem to disassemble the old motor. I took off the 4 long screws, but it just won't come apart. I can post pictures of the wiring diagram, new motor, old motor, etc. or whatever will help you very knowledgeable guys out there. Did I mention I'm doing all this for my 70 year-old mother? :)

Post# 779959 , Reply# 1 8/28/2014 at 18:22 (3,526 days old) by ilovemykds-19 ()
Checkrate/Likes I'm sorry. Replace ">>" with "YELLOW wire" plugs into a lead on the drain valve. I don't know why it did that.

Post# 779971 , Reply# 2 8/28/2014 at 19:12 (3,526 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)
Checkrate/Likes *Jason --* I think this thread belongs in the Imperial forum where the people with the answers are more likely to see it. You should contact our Webmaster, Robert, and request that he move this over to Imperial for you. Here's a link: CLICK HERE TO GO TO rp2813's LINK

Post# 780006 , Reply# 3 8/28/2014 at 21:49 (3,526 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)
Checkrate/Likes 1 *Not yellow!!* On your original motor it was not a yellow wire, but actually a white wire that Yellowed! The new motor DOES have a white and Yellow lead on it. The start relay MUST be installed with the word "TOP" facing up on the cross member. If it was upside down, you would always have the start windings energized and the motor would run, but burn up!It should have shut down on thermal overload first but anything is possible. I am attaching the wiring instructions for you to compare to your set. Your original motor is serviceable and the bearings are replaceable as well. You need to carefully remove the plastic fan on the top of the motor. If you break it, you cannot get another one. They are not available. Once the fan comes off and you have the lower housing off the motor, you can gently tap the motor out of the top housing and gain access to the top bearing. Remove the bearings with a suitable bearing puller and go to a local bearing shop and buy yourself 2 very high quality bearings, that is, sealed on both sides and reinstall them and then reassemble the motor and hook it back up the way it was originally wired.Don't use the starting relay with the original motor. It is not needed or intended to be used with the old style Hobart motors. What probably confused you was the "color" issue of the "white" neutral wire which made its connection with the neutral of the drain valve.Obivously, that "yellow" wire did not function like the yellow one on the new motor! Hope this helps. Steve View Full Size

Post# 780112 , Reply# 4 8/29/2014 at 14:01 (3,525 days old) by ilovemykds-19 ()
Checkrate/Likes Steve, Thanks for all the info ! Yes, that's exactly the same crappy diagram I have, and I followed that diagram to the "T". I saw on the relay where it said "top" and I screwed it into the crossbar correctly. The wires were all connected correctly. I don't understand either why the overload didn't kick on... unless the motor was bad to begin with and it never actually overloaded but just started burning because it was manufactured wrong. It looks brand new and the shaft turns smoothly. The box says it came from FSP, but I thought Emerson or Ferguson made them. Oh and I definitely broke that thin white fan into a million pieces trying to get it off... after I broke the little metal ring into 3 pieces trying to get it off, even using one of those special pliers. Those pieces were extremely brittle, your honor :) Hopefully, banging on that shaft will pop out the housing on the other side. I was hoping I could Frankenstein the new motor's fan onto the old motor. I definitely don't have a bearings puller but I'm sure I can find one or maybe use my auto pulley puller tool on it. Thanks again for the advice, Jason BTW, I did start this thread in the Imperial section. I have no clue why it was put in here. I've been looking for this thread for the last day, after I wrote it. I'm glad I looked here. Thanks again

Post# 780167 , Reply# 5 8/29/2014 at 20:41 (3,525 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)
Checkrate/Likes *KA DW Motors* I have lots of good used orignal Hobart- KA DW motors that are in excellent condition if anyone ever needs one, $60 + shipping if anyone ever needs one.

Post# 780188 , Reply# 6 8/29/2014 at 21:58 (3,525 days old) by ilovemykds-19 ()
Checkrate/Likes Post a pic of one and I'll definitely take it.

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