Thread Number: 55672
Maytag A207 spin problems
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Post# 780633   9/1/2014 at 12:19 (3,496 days old) by dagget ()        

This machine is at a remote cabin that gets used occasionally. Last week we tried to use it and I found I problem that stumped me (after repairing all of the rodent-chewed wires and replacing both belts).

Fills and agitates properly. When attempting to pump out, it attempts to spin the entire drum of water, which, of course, trips the motor overload. If I remove the transmission belt, it pumps out correctly. If I drain all of the water, it will usually spin the empty drum without tripping the overload, but not always.

I expect this has to do with the operation of the brake/clutch, which I don't understand, lubrication or both. Is the cluth that is mentioned in the parts description a centrifugal clutch that de-couples the drum from the belt at low motor speed?

Thanks





Post# 780652 , Reply# 1   9/1/2014 at 13:13 (3,496 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
A207

mrb627's profile picture
These machines are designed to spin and drain the wash water.






Malcolm


Post# 780656 , Reply# 2   9/1/2014 at 13:30 (3,496 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
As per Malcolm, Maytags of this design are supposed to go into spin with a full load of water. They do not drain before spinning.

Did you use proper Maytag-sourced belts? Or did you match generic belts by size?

Maytag belts MUST be used.  The transmission belt has a special coating and functions as the spin clutch.  It's intended to slip on the motor pulley until the drum gets up to speed.  The wrong kind of belt will grab too much instead of slipping, which overloads the motor.


Post# 780668 , Reply# 3   9/1/2014 at 14:02 (3,496 days old) by dagget ()        

Yep, used generic NAPA belts by size. I'll order the Maytag belts and let you know when we get back up there in April.

Thanks


Post# 780690 , Reply# 4   9/1/2014 at 15:24 (3,496 days old) by sel8207 (naples, florida 34117)        
I tried that.

I too tried using the properly sized automotive belts, thinking the belts on my maytag 806 were a little loose and maybe worn. Those auto belts overloaded the motor. Found out online never use auto belts on a maytag 2 belt system. Use only the approved 2 belt maytag belts, and look at youtube as to how to change and adjust them. At youtube type in "two belt maytag". One video site (the applianceman) has short videos on how to replace belts and other mechanical components on these rugged machines. Les

Post# 780787 , Reply# 5   9/1/2014 at 23:08 (3,496 days old) by Kenmore71 (Minneapolis, MN)        

kenmore71's profile picture

You have to use a Maytag specced belt for the transmission belt. This belt is impregnated with graphite to allow the belt to slip during the beginning of the spin while the tub is SLOWLY spinning and the water is pumped out. As the water is pumped out, the speed increases until it reaches the "theoretical" design speed of 618 RPM. The Maytag design is rather ingenious in that it relies on this belt to act as a spin clutch instead of using a separate clutch like most other machines.

 

You can use a standard automotive belt on the pump if you want. Just make sure that the tension is VERY loose on it. You should be able to pinch the pump belt together such that it ALMOST touches before it starts to move the motor carriage,


Post# 780959 , Reply# 6   9/2/2014 at 19:27 (3,495 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Proper Belts For MT Washers

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As Mark mentioned the pump belt is not critical as long as it stays VERY LOOSE when the main belt is tight. I have had very good luck with generic belts for the main drive belt on MT washers, AS LONG AS THEY are made for MT washers, and have MTs part# on them, and I refuse to give WP $20 for a $5 belt, also the pump belt on MT washers will generally outlast the machine, we almost never change a pump belt.

John L.



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