Thread Number: 56298
70s Westinghouse washer Belt
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Post# 786300   9/29/2014 at 18:10 (3,490 days old) by mohnashaat ()        

Hi every one, i really need your help. I am not an expert in washers, it is may be the second time i touch a washer from inside :) i moved in an apartment where there was an old Westinghouse TL washer the model is LA460PW and the belt was broken.

The belt number is Q181623, i knew after that that this washer is 40 years old as Westinghouse was discontinued , I bought another belt Q181625, they told me it is the same, now how to install it ? there is a third poly that moves with a magnet, is the belt all around ? i tried this but there is something wrong, it keeps rotating instead of draining


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Post# 786328 , Reply# 1   9/29/2014 at 19:45 (3,490 days old) by washdaddy (Baltimore)        

what are you referring to that is rotating instead of draining?

Post# 786332 , Reply# 2   9/29/2014 at 19:55 (3,490 days old) by mohnashaat ()        

the agitator

Post# 786867 , Reply# 3   10/2/2014 at 13:33 (3,487 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)        

looks like you have a westy old enough for nuetral drain :) As i recall, the pulley with the solenoid(magnet)presses against the outsie of the belt to tighten the the belt-can't remember if the solenoid tightens the belt to spin or agitate or if the solenoid pulls back the idler pulley to loosen the belt and allow the "neutral drain"tub pumpout before spin.

Post# 786903 , Reply# 4   10/2/2014 at 17:47 (3,487 days old) by coldspot66 (Plymouth, Mass)        

I beleive that was called a pre-pump solenoid. Used on early Westy top load washers to loosen the belt during pump out.

Post# 786905 , Reply# 5   10/2/2014 at 17:51 (3,487 days old) by coldspot66 (Plymouth, Mass)        

Also new part # for Q181625 is 5308001832. Still available.

Post# 786914 , Reply# 6   10/2/2014 at 18:52 (3,487 days old) by laundromat (Hilo, Hawaii)        

laundromat's profile picture
Mine needs a new hub cap shaft pt # Q000168762 . $38.70

Post# 786918 , Reply# 7   10/2/2014 at 19:06 (3,487 days old) by mohnashaat ()        

thank you cfz2882 and coldspot66, it is now more clear for me but what is neutral drain ? and is not normal that even the belt is quite loosen, the agitator is still spinning, because it tried it without clothes and when it was supposed draining with only water inside, the water started to spin and was almost falling

i added some photos here, i started a new post before seeing your replies


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Post# 786978 , Reply# 8   10/3/2014 at 01:31 (3,487 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

Do you have the matching dryer for your washer? Here's a dryer that looks very similar in Mirabel...

 

www.kijiji.ca/v-laveuse-secheuse/...


Post# 787023 , Reply# 9   10/3/2014 at 08:49 (3,486 days old) by mohnashaat ()        

It seems they were separated twins since birth :)

No one replied about the belt


Post# 787039 , Reply# 10   10/3/2014 at 10:16 (3,486 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

turquoisedude's profile picture

I wish I could help - I had a washer like this years ago, but never did any work on it...


Post# 787382 , Reply# 11   10/5/2014 at 09:06 (3,484 days old) by gizmo (Victoria, Australia)        

I suspect you may have the belt mounted incorrectly.

I think the solenoid pulley runs on the outer edge of the belt, not the inside edge.

to explain "neutral drain":

Top Load washing machines operate in either of two ways when pumping out -
"Spin drain" - when washing is finished, the machine immediately starts to spin. The drum is still full of water and it slowly spins at first, as the water level drops, spin speed increases till when drum is empty, spin speed is maximum.

- OR -

"Neutral Drain" - when washing is finished, the pump operates first, draining the water from the drum before any spinning starts. Spin only commences when the drum is empty of water.

There is no clear agreement which is better - everyone has their preference.

Your Westinghouse has neutral drain - the solenoid pulley releases belt tension at the start of pumping out, so the pump operates without the belt driving the spin. After the pump has emptied the drum, the solenoid will engage spin by tightening the belt tension.


Post# 787397 , Reply# 12   10/5/2014 at 10:02 (3,484 days old) by golittlesport (California)        

golittlesport's profile picture
My family had a very similar Westy top loader, maybe one model down with water temps selected by the timer dial, purchased in 1971 or 72. It used a spin drain. The fact that the tub and agitator rotates but the water does not pump out makes me wonder if your pump is frozen or if something is jamming it. Have you opened the pump to inspect it?

Post# 787402 , Reply# 13   10/5/2014 at 10:25 (3,484 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
Ignorance is bliss?

mrb627's profile picture
So does the solenoid energize to add tension to the belt? Or to loosen it?

That is, is the solenoid energized for agitation and spinning or for neutral draining?

On a side note, that machine is in amazing condition for its age!

Malcolm


Post# 787521 , Reply# 14   10/5/2014 at 20:10 (3,484 days old) by gizmo (Victoria, Australia)        

Oh, sorry, I mis-understood the original post.

If the machine isn't draining then the fault is the pump, not the belt. The pump is driven directly by the motor, so belt problems don't affect the pump.

Possibly the pump is blocked, or the tub-to-pump hose, or the outlet hose.


I can't remember whether the solenoid energizes to loosen or tighten, but from vague memory the belt idler pulley is tensioned by a spring, and the solenoid pulls in against the spring to slacken the belt. So the solenoid would loosen the belt.

no guarantees that is correct, though.

These machines were manufactured in Australia for quite a few years, by the Email company. So they had both "Westinghouse" and "Email" logos on them. They have no brake to slow down the tub after spinning (or a very weak brake, I can't remember), so later ones were fitted with a lid lock.


Post# 787530 , Reply# 15   10/5/2014 at 20:34 (3,484 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
WH TL Washer Problems

combo52's profile picture
The Pre-Pump Solenoid was only used on a few early versions of this machine in the US and it was also available as a add on kit for later models to solve various problems that are always possible with spin-drain washers. When the solenoid is energized the belt is loosened so the washers tub can drain with almost no spinning action.

If the motor is running and the machine is not draining the pump is either blocked or otherwise broken, of coerce this is assuming the motor is running in the correct direction, otherwise you may have a timer problem.


Post# 787539 , Reply# 16   10/5/2014 at 21:27 (3,484 days old) by mohnashaat ()        

@golittlesport

I think mine is spin drain too, the pump is working fine, without the belt every thing is perfect, only no rotation.

@gizmo

This is my question since the beginning the solenoid pulley runs on the outer or the inner side of the belt.

I tried both with only water and in both case it was rotating when it started to pump out (drain), and because there was no clothes the water was agitated and almost falling out so i stopped the washer, so i cannot really say if it was draining or not.

here is the 2 cases: check the photo, i made a handy diagram

if the belt is all around the 3 pulleys, i had to press on the solenoid pulley to install it (almost as if the solenoid is engaged), so your explanation fits here (not on the outer edge) with the only thing that even if the solenoid is engaged and the belt is not really released may be less tightened.

the second case: the solenoid pulley runs on the outer edge of the belt so when the solenoid is engaged (pumping out) the belt is more tightened.

@ mrb627

this is the question, depending on how it is mounted, but in both cases i think it is a spin drain

i am really confused



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Post# 787624 , Reply# 17   10/6/2014 at 08:36 (3,483 days old) by gizmo (Victoria, Australia)        

Your machine is designed to be neutral drain, that is what the solenoid is for.

It seems to me that if your machine pumps out correctly when the belt is disconnected, then your pump is fine.

The reason your machine is spinning too fast when full of water and almost spilling water over the top is because the solenoid is not releasing the tension enough, so even though the solenoid engages during pump out, the belt is still tight and the spinning action continues.

This suggests one of two problems:
1. The belt is not threaded properly, I'm afraid it is too long since I repaired one of these machines and I don't remember the correct pattern to install the belt.

2. The belt is the wrong size - too small.

I think both of your diagrams are wrong. The section of the belt closest to the solenoid should go in around the idler pulley.

i am trying to make a diagram but I have it saved as .odg file (open document draw file) and can't upload it as it isnt a .jpg.
I will try tomorrow to save it as .jpg but now I need to go to sleep.



Post# 787625 , Reply# 18   10/6/2014 at 08:42 (3,483 days old) by gizmo (Victoria, Australia)        

here, try this:

good night.


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Post# 787629 , Reply# 19   10/6/2014 at 09:00 (3,483 days old) by mohnashaat ()        

The idler pulley is on the other side of the solenoid as in my diagram, your reasoning makes sence but needs a longer belt to do so. I bought the same belt length and asked the previous owner if he changed it before and he said no, so i think it is the original (40 years old may be !)' is there any way to check the belt type using the model number or a user manuel of old Westinghouse washers ?

Post# 787795 , Reply# 20   10/7/2014 at 09:29 (3,482 days old) by mohnashaat ()        
Spin drain ?

i found this video on youtube it is almost the same washer as mine, may be 1 year before or after


and as i can see it is a spin drain, so i think mine is a spin drain too, the author of the video had some posts here too about his belt and it had the same number

www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/T...

Now do the solenoid loosen or tightened the belt during the spin drain ?


Post# 787888 , Reply# 21   10/7/2014 at 19:58 (3,482 days old) by mohnashaat ()        

Any help ?

Post# 787973 , Reply# 22   10/8/2014 at 10:43 (3,481 days old) by mohnashaat ()        

Today i will install the belt and i'll try both configurations, any suggeations ?

Post# 787983 , Reply# 23   10/8/2014 at 11:32 (3,481 days old) by mohnashaat ()        

i tested a full washing cycle without the belt and the solenoid only energizes only when it is full of water and is pumping out, once the water is almost out, the solenoid is not energized. During washing, cool down, rinse and final spin the solenoid is not energized. So i believe that the role of the solenoid pulley is to loosen the belt while draining ? or the inverse ?

Post# 787991 , Reply# 24   10/8/2014 at 12:14 (3,481 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
I am not familiar with this Westinghouse mechanism, but the belt would logically need to be loosened, so as to slip on the pulleys, during a neutral drain period.

The pump is direct-drive per a post above (mounted atop the motor?) so the pump will still run at full speed with a "loose" belt.

Stands to reason that the belt should be tight around the motor and transmission (and clutch) pulleys during both agitation and spin.

Is the idler pulley spring-tensioned to apply pressure on the belt to tighten it when the solenoid is not energized?  Does the solenoid pull the idler away from the belt against the spring tension to loosen it?


Post# 787995 , Reply# 25   10/8/2014 at 12:32 (3,481 days old) by mohnashaat ()        

I am not sure it is a neutral drain, as i saw on the video of a similar washer (link in a previous reply), i think it is a spin drain.

yes the pump is mounted atop the motor.

When the belt is mounted all around the three pulleys as in my diagram above, i had to push the spring to its maximum (as if the solenoid is engaged) this means that when the solenoid will engage it is not really loosening the belt.

to answer your question :(Is the idler pulley spring-tensioned to apply pressure on the belt to tighten it when the solenoid is not energized? Does the solenoid pull the idler away from the belt against the spring tension to loosen it?)
yes the idler pulley spring-tensioned to apply pressure on the belt when the solenoid is not energized. the solenoid is supposed to pull the idler away from the belt to loosen it but as i said the way the belt is mounted, the sprinng is at its max and the solenoid has almost no effect

I tried with a small load , when it is time to drain, it started to spin and the water was almost falling and the motor stopped.


Post# 787999 , Reply# 26   10/8/2014 at 13:07 (3,481 days old) by mohnashaat ()        

Is is spinning to fast when it starts to drain and suddenly it stops (it is not supposed to) may be and overload ?

is the Belt Q181623 equivalent to the Q182625 ? this can explain every thing if the belt is quiet shorter


Post# 788000 , Reply# 27   10/8/2014 at 13:12 (3,481 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

Mohamed,

I have no experience with any Westinghouse washers but from what I understood in the previous posts in this thread (including yours), the solenoid releases the tension on the belt at the beginning of the drain cycle to remove some strain on the motor. 

 

From what you say, once the tub is empty, the solenoid de-energizes and the belt has more tension for the spin, which would be normal (I guess!). 

 

If the solenoid has no effect, maybe the belt with the different number is just too small! Not releasing the tension on the belt at the beginning of the drain cycle could cause an overload... On some washers that have a clutch to slow the spin speed at the beginning of the spin-drain cycle, if the clutch fails to slip, it often overloads the motor which causes it to stop for a few minutes. In your washer, I guess the solenoid that loosens the belt acts as a clutch (like the clutch in my cheap lawn tractor which just releases the tension on the drive belt!). 

 


Post# 788011 , Reply# 28   10/8/2014 at 14:07 (3,481 days old) by mohnashaat ()        

Thanks Phil, i think this is the conclusion the belt is may be few millimeters too short.

Some one told me that the motor can be shifted to adjust the belt ?



Post# 788029 , Reply# 29   10/8/2014 at 16:34 (3,481 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture

Oh, I guess that's another possibility! If there adjustment slots for the motor. Keep us informed!  Do you already have the matching dryer for your washer?


Post# 788047 , Reply# 30   10/8/2014 at 18:31 (3,481 days old) by mohnashaat ()        

i'll try this possibility but there a nut in a very narrow place.

no i don`t have the dryer,i saw you posted one in Kijiji but i am in Quebec city + i don't have space for it.

By the way i am not a vintage washer collector, this is supposed to be my everyday and only washer, i moved last month to this apartment and the washer was already there, and i am asking myself is it worth all the time and energy that i am spending ? for me it is a challenge to make it work but my wife is telling me why are you repairing a washer older than you !!!


Post# 788052 , Reply# 31   10/8/2014 at 18:50 (3,481 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
Why would there be a need for the mechanism to incorporate the solenoid and idler pulley and trigger it in the cycle sequence as you describe -- engage at end of wash or rinse agitation when the tub is full, disengage at near-empty when the water has drained (presumably when the water level pressure switch resets) -- if the machine is to function as a spin-drain unit?  Seems to me it's intended to be a neutral drain system.


Post# 788056 , Reply# 32   10/8/2014 at 19:16 (3,481 days old) by mohnashaat ()        

Well i can say it is a mix of neutral and spin drain, check the video above, when it is time to drain the solenoid engages and the belt is lquite loosen, so u can see the tub full of water starting to rotate (due to the friction of the belt) and when the water is almost drained the solenoid deengages and it spins.

I think there is two reasons, first as it happemed to me if it spins while full of water , the water is falling from the top, second when the tun if full of water and clothes it is a huge load to the motor to start spinning

I don't how neutral drain can be done with the belt monted on both pulleys


Post# 788079 , Reply# 33   10/8/2014 at 21:40 (3,481 days old) by brisnat81 (Brisbane Australia)        

I have one of these style of machines, and the tub should be stationary while the neutral drain is occurring.

If the tub is moving, then its the wrong belt, or its installed correctly.

The belt sits there loosely against both pulleys during the drain and the motor pulley spins, but the belt isn't tight enough that it grabs.

When the tub is nearly empty the solenoid turns off and the belt tights and starts to spin.


Post# 788095 , Reply# 34   10/9/2014 at 00:55 (3,481 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA)        
Westinghouse belt replacement

jons1077's profile picture
The green Westinghouse washer in the YouTube video is mine and I had to do a belt replacement in it for the exact same reason. The washer sat unused for too long and the belt layers eventually split apart. I did find a new replacement belt known as a "clutch belt" and purchased two of them so I know I have an extra stored somewhere. When I find it I will post the brand and model number. According to my repair manual the belt model number is Q-63260 and is a V-belt. I just can't remember where I purchased mine.

I went ahead and scanned a couple of pages from the service manual I have. My machine dates from about the mid 1970s, has a fast agitation and a spin drain. The belt tightness can be adjusted by selecting a slot on the idler spring adjusting link. I tried to place it in the same spot that it was originally in. If it's throwing water too fast then loosen it a notch or two. FYI, it is normal for this machine to have a slight "hot belt" smell during the spin drain. That's just the friction on the belt which is what it's supposed to do.

Hopefully these scanned pages will help a little.


Post# 788096 , Reply# 35   10/9/2014 at 00:56 (3,481 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA)        

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Post# 788120 , Reply# 36   10/9/2014 at 07:47 (3,480 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Early 70s WH TL Washers

combo52's profile picture
The pre-pump solenoid was not used on many machines that were sold in the US, in almost 40 years of repairing appliances I think I have seen one. It was too bad that they did not go to the extra cost of adding this solenoid to all the washers as it would have saved a lot of belts, as Jon mentioned the belt in these washers actually gets hot and smells a little as this machine struggles to pump out the water and spin at the same time.

The ONLY REASON why any TL perforated basket washer does a spin drain is that it is CHEAPER to build a machine that does not need to do an extra function of a neutral drain. Westinghouse apparently went to the extra cost of building ND machines for markets where clothes dryers were not as common, this was done to minimize complaints of lint and dirt being redeposited on clean clothing.


Post# 788129 , Reply# 37   10/9/2014 at 08:56 (3,480 days old) by mohnashaat ()        

Hi Jon,

Yes i saw your post at first and then found your video in my long searches about my belt. But in your post you said that the belt model number is Q181623 which is exactly same as mine, i found one Q181625 sold as an equivalent but after several trial i came into conclusion that is is quite shorter so that when the solenoid is engaged and the belt is supposed to be loosen. I didn't find yet another one so i'll try to move the motor.

And that you very much for the manual.

@ John (combo52) thanks for the info, but in conclusion is it a good washer ?


Post# 788131 , Reply# 38   10/9/2014 at 09:28 (3,480 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Early 70s WH TL Washers

combo52's profile picture
Is it a good washer?

For an everyday driver, No, your Wife is correct.


Post# 788141 , Reply# 39   10/9/2014 at 10:44 (3,480 days old) by mohnashaat ()        

I pushed the motor to its maximum with the four slots (as in jons phtos), it is now better,a technician told me that the idler solenoid should be in midway, it is about 25% , so when the solenoid is engaged the belt isn't loosen as it should be, but better than before, i completed a full normal cycle but with minimum load, no overload , quite speedy spin when draining because the belt isn't loosen enough, so little water falls.

may be because the belt is still new, may be after several use it will fits more and will be less tightened.

But the spin is really noisy, don`t know if i close the back and put it in its place it will be better. i have neighbors in the floor in the bottom floor !!



Post# 788178 , Reply# 40   10/9/2014 at 16:15 (3,480 days old) by jons1077 (Vancouver, Washington, USA)        

jons1077's profile picture
Glad I could at least help a little. I actually like this machine and have been using it quite a bit for various types of loads. I think it does a good job. The spin can be noisy when it's off balance. I'd love to see more pics of your machine and maybe even a little video if possible. I would love to get one of the hand wash ramp agitators. They look even more aggressive and probably do really well. Anyways, hope it works like a charm for you!

Jon



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