Thread Number: 56422  /  Tag: Wringer Washers
Just rescued a 1-owner Maytag Gray Ghost!
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Post# 787293   10/4/2014 at 21:39 (3,483 days old) by zenith82 ()        

Hello all,

After months of searching, I finally dragged home an early gray Maytag wringer washer. I believe it's a model 90 from the late '20s, but if someone could confirm the model number and manufacture date, I'd appreciate it! The serial number on the edge is 428139N.

This came from an estate where the owner passed away over ten years ago at age 98, but the house had not been cleaned out until now. The family *thought* this washer was purchased new around 1928 and it was in regular use until about 2001. Then, it sat in the basement of that house until I dragged it out today. Had I not saved this, it would have likely gone to a scrapper.

The top soft rubber roller is dry rotted and mice had a field day with the power cord, but other than that, it seems to be in decent shape. The interior of the tub doesn't have any serious corrosion, pitting, or other condition issues and the agitator slides on and off the shaft smoothly. The lint filter is still present underneath the agitator. The motor was made by General Electric and appears to be the original. I haven't taken the cover off the belt, but I am assuming it will need to be replaced after sitting for 13+ years.

I've worked on many vintage electrical and mechanical appliances over the years, but this will be the first time I've tackled a wringer washer. My wife is looking forward to using this. Can anyone tell me what normally needs to be done to one of these to get it back in running order? I figure I will have to clean and lubricate the motor and possibly clean and re-pack the gear boxes at a minimum. Are there any gaskets that need to be replaced?

Any advice or comments are appreciated! A picture of the Maytag is below, along with a link to my album with more pictures.



Thanks,
Tom



CLICK HERE TO GO TO zenith82's LINK


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Post# 787298 , Reply# 1   10/4/2014 at 21:46 (3,483 days old) by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
Now thats a find!

jetcone's profile picture

Like my 1936 Monitor top, I'm the second owner too. Thats neat !


Post# 787328 , Reply# 2   10/4/2014 at 23:47 (3,483 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture
I know that the riveted tubs are early machines, but I can't exactly date when they went away from them at the moment. Nice looking 'Tag!

Ben


Post# 787333 , Reply# 3   10/5/2014 at 00:31 (3,483 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)        
Suggestion for parts...

bradross's profile picture
Hello Tom ... that is an amazing find! And to think you'll be only the second owner - that's really neat. It appears to be in beautiful shape, and to have an aluminum tub of that age that's not pitted or cracked is a bonus! My 1935 model 30 has significant pitting, probably from having corrosive water being left in it when it was outside for decades!

If you don't see any significant leaking around the power unit's gasket, or at the top where the tub meets the power unit, I would suspect they're still fine. I recently replaced both of my gaskets, as per this earlier thread --- www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/T...

Amazingly, when I opened up the power unit, it was still full of grease. Unless it was layed on it's side at one time and oil leaked out of the vent hole on top of the power unit, these units were pretty much packed and sealed for life (or, several lives!) The exception may be the wringer gear box, which is easy enough to open up and check the grease. There is also a small oiling port on the top of the wringer shaft housing/tube, where it connects to the wringer head. A few drops there will ensure the drive shaft doesn't seize.

Regarding the missing components, such as the drain hose, do you have a source for old parts? If not, consider contacting Emil Weyerts in Gurley, NE. He is known for restoration work on a significant collection of Maytag wringer washers (and the gas engines.) There are also club members here who have Amish contacts that may have parts. I've seen reproduction hoses listed on ebay, but I'm suspicious as to how authentic they are.

The model A-30 parts list is readily available from several members, including myself. Just ask one of us and we'll be happy to forward it to you by e-mail.

I've attached a list of serials numbers, but unfortunately this list doesn't narrow it down to a specific year or month. There are a couple of members (Geoff Delp comes to mind) who can get an exact month/year of manufacture for you.

Hope you and your wife enjoy using your model 90! Such great machine, and a wonderful living piece of fine American engineering!


Post# 787413 , Reply# 4   10/5/2014 at 11:09 (3,482 days old) by zenith82 ()        
Thanks!

Thanks to all who have commented.


Brad,

I've seen your videos of the Model 30 you restored. Excellent job! You transformed a machine that many would have said was a lost cause.

I'm going to need to find out who has parts. Reading a few threads on here, I've seen people mention the Amish guys in Ohio, a guy in NY, and the one that you listed. As of right now, I know I need to replace the top roller in the wringer assembly and the drain hose. I have grounded appliance cord and I should be able to find a belt that will work. If I don't have one, the Napa store down the road should.

There was a drain hose lying on top of the machine when I got it, but I believe it was for a different washer, as the diameter was much too small to work with the fitting on my machine. Apparently she had a later Maytag wringer as well, but it was gone by the time I got there. The drain fitting on this machine has female threads. I was thinking of threading a nipple into it and clamping a hose of the right diameter to the other end if I can't find an original style hose.

The data sheet you provided says the 90 was made between Oct '27 and Jan '30, which would put the family's alleged purchase date of 1928 in the right timeframe for when this model was available.


Post# 787446 , Reply# 5   10/5/2014 at 14:15 (3,482 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)        
Two different hose connections ...

bradross's profile picture
Tom,

Your machine has the drain hose connection I've only seen in photos, where the hose fits inside the connection. I would be interested to know how that actually worked - if the end of the hose has some sort of thread on it. My machine has the later connection, as shown in the attached photo, where the hose clamps on the outside of the drain pipe.

You could probably find that later connection through one of the aforementioned sources, if you're unable to use the existing connection.

Is the top roll completely deteriorated? Mine had a major flat spot due to the wringer being left clamped in the summer heat, where it had actually melted onto the lower roll. I was able to repair it with "Permatex Ultra-Black gasket maker".


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Post# 787456 , Reply# 6   10/5/2014 at 14:44 (3,482 days old) by zenith82 ()        
The top roll

The top roll has completely hardened and has spiderweb cracks all across it. Each time it's touched more pieces crumble away. If this machine uses a roll that's hard to find, I might try the Permatex gasket maker and see if that will work at least as a temporary fix. Thanks for the suggestion!

The drain hose will be interesting. I'll first try to see if I can find a fitting that will work with what's on there before I swap it out.

I'll probably start on this machine next weekend. It will take a day or two just to clean up the motor and underneath the tub. Although the original owner did an excellent job of keeping the tub and the top of the machine clean, I don't think it was ever cleaned underneath. I had to let automotive engine degreaser sit on top of the motor for about 15 minutes to loosen all of the buildup that was obscuring the data plate on the top.


Post# 787734 , Reply# 7   10/6/2014 at 21:51 (3,481 days old) by mr-maytag (Minneapolis, MN)        
lint filter/hose fitting

mr-maytag's profile picture
Great looking machine! Brad...do you think that lint filter along with the threads where the hose end connects could mean it had a pump on it at one time? I don't know much about these, but seems like that could be the case. I did once see an old style model like this with a pump on it.

Post# 787793 , Reply# 8   10/7/2014 at 09:18 (3,480 days old) by zenith82 ()        
Lint filter

I'm thinking the lint filter may have been added later. I don't know if this model came with one originally or not. I've gone over the underside and I don't see anywhere that a pump would have been mounted.

Post# 787794 , Reply# 9   10/7/2014 at 09:28 (3,480 days old) by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, IA)        

swestoyz's profile picture
I believe the 30 series models (model 32) were the first to come with the direct drive pumps. These came after the 80/90 series washers.

You may want to check with J. J. Short on getting the roller recovered. A buddy of mine had him recover a few typewriter platens, and they came out amazing.

www.jjshort.com/Hard-To-Find-and-...

Ben


Post# 787989 , Reply# 10   10/8/2014 at 11:53 (3,479 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)        
Model 30 with pump ...

bradross's profile picture
I'm attaching a couple of pics, showing the pump set-up on a Model 30. Given that Tom's machine (and my machine) did not come with the goose-neck on the drain hose, I'm assuming that the lint filter was just added, eventhough not really necessary with a gravity drain.

What I would give to get a Model 30 with pump, in good working condition! The only ones I've seen on ebay have been too far away. Didn't see any at Sander's Hardware Hank in Early, Iowa.


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 3         View Full Size
Post# 788661 , Reply# 11   10/12/2014 at 16:09 (3,475 days old) by zenith82 ()        
Update

So I've started cleaning up the motor and the area surrounding it. I replaced the power cord with a grounded 14-gauge appliance cord and put a couple of drops of turbine oil in the port on top of the motor. I plugged the new cord into a surge protector and switched it on for a couple of seconds to test the motor.

The motor powered on and moved the pulley and belt maybe 1/32 of a turn before it wouldn't move any more. The motor still had power after it stopped, so I'm thinking that the motor is ok. I killed the power as soon as the motor wouldn't move.

The cover over the belt is stuck on and I have not been able to get it off yet. I'm thinking that something is seized at the other end of the belt since the motor tried to start. I'm hoping it's just gummed up with solidified grease, but I'm usually not that lucky when I work on something. The motor and its mounting board had hardened grease all over it. The only way I can think this happened is that someone routinely applied grease to all of the moving parts on the underside of the tub. The parts underneath that control the agitator have a ton of old grease on them. And as expected, that grease has been a magnet for decades of dust.

There is one thing that concerns me. There is a lot of old oil that has run down the back leg where the transmission unit is. None of it is fresh, so I'm not sure if it's anything to be too concerned about or not.

I'll try to add some pictures tomorrow of the areas in question. Thanks for listening! And if anyone has any ideas on what I should do next, please let me know!

Tom


Post# 788735 , Reply# 12   10/13/2014 at 00:11 (3,475 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)        
Sounds familiar ...

bradross's profile picture
First - regarding the motor. Since you have not yet been able to get the belt cover off, I would suggest testing the motor itself to see if it's running properly. Loosen off, or remove completely, the bolts attaching the motor to the base, so you can slide it over to loosen off tension on the belt. If the motor runs smoothly, then I would suspect the problem lies with the drive shaft/worm gear at the other end of the belt. If that is seized, you would probably have to take apart the power unit to gain access to the round part of the unit where the power originates (refer to the attached photo.)

Second - if there is a large amount of seeping oil/grease down the leg where the power unit is attached, I would suspect the cork gasket has deteriorated. I recently replaced mine, having made a new gasket myself. The following thread that I posted a while back may help you out.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO bradross's LINK


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Post# 788778 , Reply# 13   10/13/2014 at 08:10 (3,474 days old) by zenith82 ()        
The motor

I removed the motor. She powered up and runs smooth and quiet. The belt had hardened to the point where it broke when I removed the motor. The front of the motor and the pulley need a good cleaning as they are covered in old grease.

With the motor out of the way, I'll look at the power unit next.

Thanks for the tip about the gasket. I figure all of the old gaskets in this thing are dry-rotted and need to be replaced. The fun part will be getting the old ones out. I'll review your thread and the diagram of the model 30.

Slightly changing subject, I found a 1" nipple lying around and it fits the drain fitting perfectly. Now I just need to clamp a hose to the other end and I think I will have improvised a drain solution. It's not pretty, but it's underneath.

Thanks again for your help! With any luck, this old girl will be back in service soon!


Post# 788789 , Reply# 14   10/13/2014 at 09:03 (3,474 days old) by wringer (x)        
I

was given as a decoration a lint filter from a Maytag Model 30 that had a pump on it. It is made of brass and is so thin it is nearly like aluminum foil. It looks exactly like the one in my 1948 E which is also brass but much heavier. I polished it up but had to be careful I didn't dent/bend it. I am amazed they made such a flimsy lint filter for such a heavy machine as the 30 is. I doubt that many 30's had pumps on them. Just my 2 cents.

Jim


Post# 790028 , Reply# 15   10/22/2014 at 07:58 (3,465 days old) by zenith82 ()        
Delay

I apologize for the lack of updates. Not much has progressed since last week due to my work schedule other than more cleaning and de-greasing.

I've decided to keep the original paint on the body and wringer head, but may look at repainting the legs since there is a good bit of spotty rust and most rust removers that I have used in the past tended to dissolve paint. Has anyone out there repainted one of these? What did you use? I'm sure I'll have to get this battleship gray color mixed, but I'm looking for tips on how to get as close of a match as possible.


Post# 790047 , Reply# 16   10/22/2014 at 11:44 (3,465 days old) by mr-maytag (Minneapolis, MN)        
Bon Ami

mr-maytag's profile picture
Hi Tom,

Before you repaint the legs... Have you ever tried Bon Ami scouring powder? It might be worth a try. It won't scratch... I've cleaned tons of vintage items with it.


Post# 790049 , Reply# 17   10/22/2014 at 12:18 (3,465 days old) by zenith82 ()        
Scouring powder

I'll give it a shot. I tried cleaning it with Mean Green, Bar Keeper's Friend, and Novus #2, all of which I've had luck with in the past. Haven't tried Bon Ami, but will look for it. I want to keep the paint original if at all possible.

Post# 790050 , Reply# 18   10/22/2014 at 12:21 (3,465 days old) by mr-maytag (Minneapolis, MN)        

mr-maytag's profile picture
Sounds like you've tried quite a few cleansers already...I'm not sure Bon Ami will do any better, but maybe worth a shot...

Post# 790058 , Reply# 19   10/22/2014 at 13:14 (3,465 days old) by mr-maytag (Minneapolis, MN)        

mr-maytag's profile picture
Another thing I've used is rubbing compound for cars. (I've used Turtle Wax brand - it's a white paste)

Post# 790109 , Reply# 20   10/22/2014 at 19:59 (3,465 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada)        
Paint suggestions...

bradross's profile picture
Hi again, Tom,

As you can see in the photos of the restoration of my Model 30, I chose a green from Valspar (Lowe's) called "Leafy Rise" in satin finish. It's not quite as gray-green as the original, but since I was repainting the entire machine, it was as close as I could find.

If you're interesting in trying to get a custom mix, here is a formula (can't remember from where I got it, but it was probably from a clubmember here, or perhaps the Maytag Collector's Club. Formula as follows -

Paint mixing formula for Maytag Model 30 (circa 1933):


Dupont Centari paint for one quart the formula is:

758S 45.5 732A 105.5 756A 185.5 705A 545.5 700A 945.5

--------------------------------------------------------------

Hope to see some pics as your restoration progresses!





Post# 792132 , Reply# 21   11/5/2014 at 07:49 (3,451 days old) by zenith82 ()        
Unexpected break

I got called out of town unexpectedly for work and had to put this on the back burner for a couple of weeks. I'm back and will be starting again this weekend.

I was able to find a complete original service bulletin for the Models 80 and 90 that was printed in 1952. I am going to study it this week before proceeding further.



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