Thread Number: 56562
Older Kenmore washer question |
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Post# 788721   10/12/2014 at 21:44 (3,454 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Hi guys
Just helped a friend pick up a second hand kenmore washer model 110 92578210 Got it home, hooked it up, seems to work, but noticed that there is a long (about 8 min) pause after the rinse/agitate, before it goes into drain/rinse spin? Is this normal? Also noticed thar on the gentle cycle, that it fill for the rinse, but dose not agitate, just sits still (for about 8 min) then drains and rinse/spins? Also wondered about how old it may be? Serial # is ce2839560 |
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Post# 788728 , Reply# 1   10/12/2014 at 22:19 (3,454 days old) by coldspot66 (Plymouth, Mass)   |   | |
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Sounds like a bad timer. |
Post# 788822 , Reply# 2   10/13/2014 at 13:13 (3,453 days old) by thefixer ()   |   | |
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Washer was manufactured in July 1995. Timer part number is 3946452. |
Post# 789130 , Reply# 3   10/15/2014 at 11:51 (3,451 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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For the info and part number.
I was over there yesterday and we ran a load, it seemed to go through the cycles just fine? Going to hang on to that timer part # just incase! Something I did notice, there is a small water drip twords the front of the machine? It's near the right foot? I took the cabinet off and looked, everywhere that I thought water could leak from is dry! It's puzzling, because there is no water connections near that spot? Felt the bottom of the tub as best I could, and nothing? Any ideas? |
Post# 789227 , Reply# 4   10/15/2014 at 23:24 (3,451 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)   |   | |
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On our WP machine when washing permanent press, the last 5 minutes of the cycle are slowed down agitation. Then one of the speeds of the motor went out and it just sat there for 5 min before continuing on and draining and spinning instead of agitating at a slower speed. Maybe that's what's wrong with your washer? |
Post# 789258 , Reply# 5   10/16/2014 at 01:24 (3,451 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 789300 , Reply# 7   10/16/2014 at 11:19 (3,450 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 789306 , Reply# 8   10/16/2014 at 12:12 (3,450 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)   |   | |
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Those are good washers. You can still do laundry the way you want to do it rather than how the government wants you to do it. Plus parts for those DD washers should be available for the next 25 years, at least! |
Post# 789314 , Reply# 9   10/16/2014 at 13:04 (3,450 days old) by thefixer ()   |   | |
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No clue where that water is coming from. Would have to run the machine with the cabinet off to figure that out. |
Post# 789336 , Reply# 10   10/16/2014 at 15:37 (3,450 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 789515 , Reply# 11   10/17/2014 at 21:01 (3,449 days old) by Lorainfurniture (Cleveland )   |   | |
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It is very common for the water pump to drip, and the water runs down the frame and comes out at the leg. Next load, feel the metal clip under the water pump for moisture |
Post# 789531 , Reply# 13   10/18/2014 at 01:17 (3,449 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Guys for the suggestions
I'm going over next week and run it with the cabinet off and try to find the leak. (Its worse with so HOT water use) If it is the pump, is there a sealer or patching to fix? Or would it need a new pump? Is there a sealer that can be used if it's leaking from the tub? Id like to save this one, it's a nice machine. |
Post# 789538 , Reply# 15   10/18/2014 at 03:55 (3,449 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 789561 , Reply# 16   10/18/2014 at 11:12 (3,448 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)   |   | |
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You may have to jumper the lid switch or the terminals where it connects so it will spin. Other than that it should work just fine. |
Post# 789564 , Reply# 17   10/18/2014 at 11:54 (3,448 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Post# 789625 , Reply# 18   10/19/2014 at 00:45 (3,448 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Decided to run the washer with the cabinet off, and immediately spotted a small leak from the pump. So I've ordered a new one as suggested. I also spotted a small leak that may be coming from the tub seal, but that went away quickly. I try and deal with that if it persists later, as well as the possible timer problem. I noticed that the upper part of the agitator was not working properly, so I've ordered new dogs for it. The pump and the dogs are going to set me back all of $12.00 LOL
Pic 1 is where the pump drips. Pic 2 is where I saw a drip, that might be the tub seal. Let me know if you think I'm on the right track with this, |
Post# 789626 , Reply# 19   10/19/2014 at 00:53 (3,448 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Where I found a broken dog.
I haven't tried (too hard) to separate the upper agitator from the lower yet. Or take it apart, Didn't seem like that was going to just slip apart very easy. I'm guessing that the ones that are still there have lost there teeth? Thanks guys for all the tips, and advice for this.
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Post# 789627 , Reply# 20   10/19/2014 at 02:43 (3,448 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)   |   | |
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I found that in order to separate the top agitator section from the lower, just put the lower part between your two feet and grasp the upper part firmly and give it a yank. They'll separate. They go back together much easier. Like I said before, parts for these machines are pretty plentiful and cheap. |
Post# 789633 , Reply# 21   10/19/2014 at 04:18 (3,448 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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that when I get the new parts! Thanks for the tip!
I spent some time today cleaning it. I took off the tub ring and cleaned up under it. I filled the machine with hot water, and 2 cups of washing soda, and let it soak for about 15 min, then ran it, watched the detergent residue break loose from the outer and inner tub. After a few min (without added detergent) it started sudsing! By the time I was done, most of the scale an gunk that could see was gone, and the perfume smell of the old detergent was gone. And of course stopped sudsing. Cleaned out the water fill dispenser (not sure what that part is called) it was full of hard water scale. Took off the bleach dispenser, soaked and cleaned it. Underside of the cabinet is badly rusted where the bleach dispenser snaps on, so will sand prime and paint that spot later. Just what little I've done so far, has made it look, and smell younger LOL |
Post# 789637 , Reply# 22   10/19/2014 at 05:35 (3,448 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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The agitator auger (technical name is clothes mover) on a "virgin" disassembly is probably anchored onto the base via a couple tabs ... which are there to facilitate factory assembly. The instructions I've seen for the replacement dog kit advises to pull the auger off the base as Allen advises above, then break off any remaining bits of the anchor tabs as they're not needed. It helps when reassembling to turn the auger upside down with your hand inside to hold the cam and dogs in place, then set the agitator base into the auger and hold them firmly together when turning it right-side up for placing back onto the drive shaft. NOTE: The bolt down inside the agitator DOES need to be removed and the entire agitator pulled out of the machine. The auger cannot be removed with the bolt in place. Tighten the bolt snugly when reassembling so the rubber seal seals properly but not so tight that the bolt cuts the seal. An airtight seal is formed to maintain an air bubble under the agitator to help keep water away from the centerpost bearings. |
Post# 789666 , Reply# 24   10/19/2014 at 13:36 (3,447 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 789678 , Reply# 25   10/19/2014 at 15:53 (3,447 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)   |   | |
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The very first repair I ever did on a washer was to install one of these agitator overhaul kits in a WP TL machine. The entire job took 20 minutes, start to finish. One of the easiest things to do. These machines are not that hard to work on. I'd be more concerned about the cabinet rust. I've seen some pretty bad cases of that before. |
Post# 789680 , Reply# 26   10/19/2014 at 15:58 (3,447 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 789702 , Reply# 27   10/19/2014 at 18:08 (3,447 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)   |   | |
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If the only thing that is damaged is your agitator dogs, then you are good to go. I purchased the agitator overhaul kit which includes all the parts that go inside the agitiator, including a new top seal for the plastic cover. I just don't want to take any chances that I was missing something. |
Post# 789725 , Reply# 28   10/19/2014 at 21:33 (3,447 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 790151 , Reply# 29   10/23/2014 at 00:32 (3,444 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Got Lucky!
Parts came in! Installed the new pump, and the new agitator dogs, not much to it, and seemed to sove the problems! I watched, and listened to it go through a full cycle...no leaks, and agitator pulled the clothes under efficiently. Timer seemed to work fine for now...Only thing I noticed was that on this occasion, it decided to spin at the same time it was suppose to be doing its neutral drain, and of course spun again at the time that it was suppose to! I'm guessing that it will do this in occasion because the neutral drain pak is also worn? I told my friend not to worry about it for now. If it becomes a problem, that I'll address a new clutch (or spring) and new drain pak if it got worse. Another one saved! Thanks to all! |
Post# 790155 , Reply# 30   10/23/2014 at 03:04 (3,444 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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just curious..
On these Kenmore machines, is there a off balance cut off? Somewhere I got the idea that when there was a off balance situation, that the machine stopped, and that this feature was conducted through the lid switch? Honestly I can't remember where I heard that? Maybe this model just keeps spinning? |
Post# 790157 , Reply# 31   10/23/2014 at 04:43 (3,444 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Whirly/KM direct-drive units (& Roper, Estate, Inglis, Maytag, etc.) typically don't have have off-balance switches, except the Catalyst models and it's possible Sears spec'd for it on some higher-end models as an 'exclusive' feature as they sometimes do vs. the Whirlpool equivalents. The Catalyst machines have a bump-switch on the rear panel unrelated to the lid switch so presumably that'd be the method on any model that has it. (switch with white arm inside a protective sleeve) |
Post# 790487 , Reply# 32   10/24/2014 at 21:49 (3,442 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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For the pic, and explanation.
Talked to my friend today, agitator, is working well, and no leak at the new pump. However there is another leak! Facing the machine, it comes from the left side, my friend say it only dose it when hot water is used? Not on warm or cold? Pic below is pointing to where it leaks from. I'm going over sometime soon to check it out. Should I be suspicious of the tub seal?
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Post# 790967 , Reply# 33   10/28/2014 at 10:55 (3,438 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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Post# 791264 , Reply# 34   10/30/2014 at 02:51 (3,437 days old) by stan (Napa CA)   |   | |
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This is what the machines control panel looks like. Just for I.D purposes!
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