Thread Number: 56573
Estate Elite Washer Problem
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Post# 788868   10/13/2014 at 19:50 (3,453 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

A friend of mine called today to ask me about a washer problem he is having. The machine is a 2001 Estate Elite TL DD washer.

He said he was washing some clothes and when he came back to the machine about an hour later it was sitting there full of rinse water and clothes completely dead. He tried to manually turn the timer dial to spin, and nothing happened. He tried other wash modes and nothing happened. He said the machine appears to be totally dead. He checked the power outlet the machine is plugged into and there is power there. The machine makes no noises whatsoever no matter what mode the timer dial is in.

Where do you start checking on something like this?





Post# 788877 , Reply# 1   10/13/2014 at 20:21 (3,453 days old) by pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)        

pierreandreply4's profile picture
the first thing i would check are the following

a) if there is agitation and if water drains on last spin portion of cycle (if there is no contact bettwen the timer and motor then the motor as burn

b) if its a timer problem

i know what a burn motor is on my 1993 inglis superbII (canadien branded whirlpool) the motor burn out because the washer was overloaded and i suggest posting a picture of the washer and a video it might help fine a solution to the problem


Post# 788880 , Reply# 2   10/13/2014 at 20:34 (3,453 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        
It's Dead, Jim

This washer is totally dead. No sounds at all. No matter where you set the timer dial. No motor noise, no clicks or clacks, nothing at all.

Post# 788908 , Reply# 3   10/13/2014 at 22:51 (3,453 days old) by supersurgilator (Indiana)        

Has he tried letting it sit for awhile and going back later to run it to see it the motor kicked out on thermal overload? It would take a bit for it to cool down and reset itself

Post# 788911 , Reply# 4   10/13/2014 at 23:11 (3,453 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

Told the guy to let it sit for at least two hours and try it again. He said he'd try that and will let me know later. Now it will sit overnight. It's in a laundry room that is barely cooled or heated and it was only 65F in there today. It should cool down nicely overnight and it'll probably be 60F in that laundry room overnight.


Post# 788915 , Reply# 5   10/13/2014 at 23:38 (3,453 days old) by washdaddy (Baltimore)        

Could the lid switch be a possibility for the problem? I know that in some machines if the lid switch isn't "depressed" that the machine will not do anything.

Post# 788923 , Reply# 6   10/14/2014 at 01:02 (3,453 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

If even the timer does nothing, either something comoletly shut of power (so, it could be a lid switch problem if it is wired in line with the whole timer or a line-in filter problem if it even got one) or the timer failed internaly (timer motor or an internal connection).

Post# 788939 , Reply# 7   10/14/2014 at 04:39 (3,453 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
Estate is a Whirlpool DD, so you're in familiar territory.

Check for a wire burned on the drive motor or a loosened connector ... although that doesn't explain the timer not running (assuming it doesn't).


Post# 788954 , Reply# 8   10/14/2014 at 06:59 (3,452 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

I asked the guy if the machine, before it broke could agitate with the lid open and he said it did but not now. In this machine, the lid only needs to be closed for the spin.

I'm going to go over there to help him out today. I'll check the lid switch and the timer/motor connections and look for any burned wires.



Post# 788963 , Reply# 9   10/14/2014 at 07:57 (3,452 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

First, check if the timer does a ticking noise like it would be running and if it advances. Further, set the machine to fill and check for filling. Then, I'd check the lid switch for continuity. Next, I'd check voltage to the timer and from the timer to all other users (motor, pressure switch, lid switch). If nothing seems wrong till here, check the motor.

Post# 788966 , Reply# 10   10/14/2014 at 08:34 (3,452 days old) by thefixer ()        

How about a model number??? That way, I can look at a wiring diagram and be more certain as to a diagnosis or advice.

Post# 788981 , Reply# 11   10/14/2014 at 11:10 (3,452 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

OK, I heard from the guy who owns the washer today. He said that the turned the wash basket 1 full turn to the right, clockwise. About 1/2 way through the rotation he felt something "break loose" and the tub turned much more easily. He turned the washer on and it operated normally.

The load he was washing when the washer failed was small. Two pairs of jeans and three short sleeved T-shirts.

What could cause that problem? A stuck spin clutch?


Post# 789000 , Reply# 12   10/14/2014 at 14:07 (3,452 days old) by thefixer ()        

You said the washer was totally dead, no sounds at all no matter where the timer was set. This is an electrical problem. The clutch would have no effect on that. You should not normally be able to freely rotate the basket as the brakes are applied anytime the washer is not in spin mode. Sounds like an intermittent connection somewhere to me. I don't think the problem is resolved. A model number would be very helpful.

Post# 789042 , Reply# 13   10/14/2014 at 19:45 (3,452 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

OK, here is the model and serial number. Estate/Whirlpool Model TAWS700EQ1 S/N CG0901093. Could this be a 1993 washer?

I finally went down there today to see it for myself. I could hear the timer motor turning and the timer was advancing. The owner said he turned the tub 1 full turn, he didn't.. he turned the agitator 1 full turn, breaking the agitator dogs in the process! That's why the agitator moved so easily in both directions. I looked in the hole for the lid switch and saw nothing in there! The lid switch had disintegrated! I took the cover off and found it in pieces at the bottom of the washing machine base. So I shorted the wires and the machine started to spin. I reset the timer after the spin and the machine filled and agitated. So it just needs an agitator overhaul kit and a lid switch and he'll be back in business.

I've seen machines in better condition than this one. It's starting to rust around the lid hinges, lots of powdered soap debris all over the area around the tub. It looks like somebody doesn't take care of their laundry equipment.


But he has another problem. He has a matching Kenmore Gas Dryer (110.72952100) (S/N ML2908813) that works, but he said it makes a funny noise when it starts up. So he demoed it sound for me. It's like a very loud "Wooooooffff!" of the gas igniting! Last year we put a new belt on this dryer and cleaned it out really well. It's in good condition. However he pointed out that when you open the inside of the dryer it smells of gas. It is a REALLY strong odor of gas. Even when the machine is off. There is no gas smell outside the machine, just inside of it.

I imagine the noise it is making is the interior gas vapors lighting up. Would this be a gas valve to replace or a burner? Something is definitely not right with the gas on this dryer. When I left it I turned the gas off to it and told him not to use it because I don't think it's safe to use.



Post# 789043 , Reply# 14   10/14/2014 at 19:57 (3,452 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
TAWS700EQ1 = (E) 1996 model year
CG0901093 = (G) 1997 (09) 9th week

The lid switch theoretically shouldn't have prevented agitation.  It does on some (newer) models but likely shouldn't on this one, depends on the wiring details which TheFixer said he'll report.  It is possible with force to turn the agitator enough to disengage the transmission toward neutral.  He may have broken the dogs or they may have already been bad.


ML2908813 = (L) 2001 29th week

I don't know gas so someone else will have to address that.


Post# 789051 , Reply# 15   10/14/2014 at 21:08 (3,452 days old) by thefixer ()        

Lid switch on this model only affects drain/spin, not agitation cycle. Definitely have a gas leak there and should keep gas off to that dryer. Need to do a soap bubble leak test to determine if it's leaking at gas line connection to valve assembly. If not, replace the valve assembly. Catastrophe waiting to happen!

Post# 789057 , Reply# 16   10/14/2014 at 22:34 (3,452 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

That's what I thought too. I have seen it agitate in the past with the lid open, and after we bypassed the lid switch it did just that. Strange.

I'll check into the gas valve assembly for leaks next time I am down there. In the meantime I'll remind the owner not to use it and leave the gas turned off.


Post# 789083 , Reply# 17   10/15/2014 at 06:28 (3,451 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Dryer that smells like gas

combo52's profile picture
Yes this dryer needs to be checked for gas leaks before it is used again. It is however most unlikely that the accumulated gas is causing a small fireball in the drum as the dryer lights. The dryers blower will quickly clear any gas in the drum and cabinet long before the ignitor heats up and the dryers gas valve opens.

The way gas dryers are designed you can have the dryers gas valve fully open spewing gas with the machine running and it will never ignite even if you had a fire inside the drum or in the exhaust duct. As soon as the gas a foot from the orifice it is too diluted to ever ignite, gas dryers are generally much safer than gas ovens for example.

It would not be possible to break agitator dogs by turning the top of the agitator by hand, on a 17 year old machine they were already broken, I am sure when you replace them you will find they are very brittle, if they are even there at all.


Post# 789122 , Reply# 18   10/15/2014 at 10:55 (3,451 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        

Thanks for the info about gas dryers. I've never had one, so my knowledge in that area is pretty thin. I'll do the old soapy water test to see if I can determine where the gas leak is on that dryer before proceeding.

I know what you mean about the agitator dogs. My own 22 year old WP TL has gone through two sets already. And when I have changed them out, they are pretty brittle.


Post# 790120 , Reply# 19   10/22/2014 at 20:31 (3,444 days old) by whirlcool (Just North Of Houston, Texas)        
Finished!

Worked on this Estate beast today, installed a agitator kit, but only really needed new dogs. And installed a lid switch. Machine is operating perfectly now.
It will agitate with the lid up, but it won't spin with the lid up. So everything is now fine with this machine. It runs and sounds like a new machine. It literally purrs now.

I put a light coating of lithium grease on the agitator dogs and a very light coating on the gear ring that the agitator dogs interface with. I know when I replaced my agitator dogs back in 2006 it came with a small tube of grease. But I have seen recently that this is no longer included.

Now working on that lid switch was a real PITA. The cover did not want to come off that machine! Two of us wrangled with it and it finally came loose. It was as hot as hades in that laundry room they have it in and there is not much room to maneuver in there. They you had to play with the clips and wires and ground screw.
We got the job done in about 1:15. The last 15 mins was spent wrangling the cabinet back on the machine.

This machine has some significant rust spots on the lid and where the hinges are on the top of the machine and around the bleach dispenser. Right now it's just bubbling paint, but I told the owner those have to be addressed real soon because I have seen some of these machines have their cabinets just rust away while the machine continues to work. I didn't see any rust on the base of the unit. Can you just sand the rust away and coat with an appliance primer and some appliance paint?

I now know why appliance repairmen make their money!



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