|
Thread Number: 57837
/ Tag: Vintage Dryers
Vintage Commercial Dryers |
[Down to Last] |  |
|
| Post# 802734 , Reply# 1 1/7/2015 at 04:47 (3,394 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea)) | ||
Getcha one then, if you have the space, gas, high-volume venting (8" duct). Takes 3 residential washers to fill it to an efficient level. Assuming you can do the rebuild (zero labor cost) the parts are probably available.
The 'worn out' part is a balance between how cheap they sell and rebuild costs. I mean, if it were economical to rebuild at the point where they were retired, don't you think the commercial laundry would have? I worked at a hotel briefly and their aged dryers constantly failed from one thing or another. Their washers weren't much better, only the newest Wascomat pretty much worked, the two Unimacs took turns breaking down. | ||
| Post# 802736 , Reply# 2 1/7/2015 at 05:32 (3,394 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod) | ||
My Experience...
Has been Hoyt, Huebch, and Speed Queen Commercials.
Milnor Washers. We had at the Yacht Club I worked a 35# Milnor EP35 Washer and a 75# Reverse Tumbling Dryer. (Natural Gas) During the 3 years I was there, we had no Service Calls at all on either Machines. That Milnor was built better than a Tank. The Main Bearing was that compared to the bearing they use in the trucks for a Rail Road Car. Yes, That Heavy Duty. If I owned my own home, I would definitely love to have a Commercial Set up just to wash Comforters and Large Items to see Water really slosh those items around. The Miele 4842 I bought 3 years ago even with the WaterPlus feature set, still does not provide enough water. | ||
| Post# 802746 , Reply# 4 1/7/2015 at 06:54 (3,394 days old) by nmassman44 (Brooksville Florida) | ||
A quick fix to the air movement issue would be to open a window. I do that with my dryers since they will suck the heat out of the house in the winter, plus they dry faster with the dry winter air we have going on now. Granted when they are running together pulling 180 cfms for my Profile dryer and 200 cfms for the Frigidaire built GE dryer, it's quite breezy in the basement when they are on.
| ||
Post# 802915 , Reply# 6 1/8/2015 at 06:20 (3,393 days old) by Tomturbomatic  (Beltsville, MD) |
||
|
Does the room have a window you could open while the dryer is in operation? | ||
|
Post# 802943 , Reply# 7 1/8/2015 at 11:44 (3,393 days old) by RevvinKevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land) |
||
You will NEED to have an open window.....
I was just looking at the specs for new commercial dryer (in this case Uni-Mac). I thought they'd require a larger gas line connection, but even with the 75lb dryer @ 165K BTUs only requires a 1/2" gas line.
On airflow, both the 50 & 75lb dryers have an airflow rating of 750 CFM! Granted a "vintage" commercial dryer the airflow may be less, but I doubt it will be as low as 300 CFM......... Unless you're not talking about large dryers like 50 lbs or more??
A different 30lb commercial dryer I found is only 400 CFM, but that's still a big step up from a residential model.
Kevin | ||
|
Post# 802952 , Reply# 8 1/8/2015 at 12:47 (3,393 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
||
Opening a window
While running a dryer indoors can be a good idea but it will not dry faster with cold outside air than the warm 70 degree room air that the house likely has.
Used commercial gas dryers are easy to find if you look in the right places. We have a 50lb SQ dryer that we are going to install in the back of the museum alongside a 35Lb SQ bolt down commercial washer. The dryer has a 6" vent and is 85,000 BTUs. | ||
| Post# 803038 , Reply# 9 1/9/2015 at 01:03 (3,392 days old) by A440 () | ||
|
Tom, Yes the room does have three windows next to where the dryer could go. I would just love a huge gas commercial dryer. I am a dryer nut. B | ||
|
Post# 804435 , Reply# 11 1/16/2015 at 11:21 (3,385 days old) by philcobendixduo (San Jose) |
||
On the subject of "makeup air" for dryers
I have a 1967 California tract home that has a "rare" indoor laundry room.
Most California houses of this vintage have the washer and dryer hookups located in the garage. I always wondered why my furnace had an intake (return air) vent located on the outside wall. I actually blocked it off many years ago because when the wind blew, the draft from the INDOOR intake vent located in the family room would really make the room cold - and drafty! It also allowed outdoor smells like wood burning smoke, skunks and car exhaust to be sucked into the furnace and blown throughout the house. I just read in an online forum that many homes have these furnace return air vents allowing outside air to come in to make up for bathroom vent fans, kitchen vent fans, fireplaces and dryers that suck air OUT of the house creating negative pressure. I just had my house fully insulated and a chimney top damper installed so my house is now much more energy efficient AND there are less places for air to leak in. To avoid sucking conditioned air out of the house when I run the dryer, I open the door from the laundry room to the garage a "crack" to allow air to come in from there and I close the door from the laundry room to the house. I think todays modern "energy efficient" homes have an air to air heat exchanger that allows for outside air to come inside without wasting energy and causing drafts. I wonder how many people have never considered that a dryer "sucks" air out of the house (if it's a vented dryer)? | ||
| Forum Index: |
| Other Forums: |
|
|
|
|
|
Comes to the Rescue!
;){kind=link}
;){kind=link}