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Thread Number: 58038
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Maytag A712 Question |
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Post# 805163 , Reply# 2 1/21/2015 at 12:31 (3,376 days old) by rp2813  (Sannazay) |
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 Redcarpetdrew is another good resource. He's an authorized Maytag repairman.
Also, click on the Super Searchalator link at the top right of this forum's index page. Type something like "maytag orbital" in the field and threads discussing that topic will be displayed.
Redcarpetdrew has posted some detailed threads about Maytag repairs, but I can't say for sure if they address your specific transmission and the related repair process.
I can assure you that there are people here who can answer your question. You may have to allow them some time to check in here and notice your thread. | ||
| Post# 805164 , Reply# 3 1/21/2015 at 12:32 (3,376 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA) | ||
Orbital?
Does your transmission look like this?
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Post# 805182 , Reply# 6 1/21/2015 at 14:37 (3,376 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay) |
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I was wondering about a 712 having an orbital transmission as well, but I don't know when Maytag made the switch.
It's my understanding that the later orbital transmission provides a quick short agitation stroke and the older "helical" or pitman type provides the classic long agitation stroke associated with the virtually indestructible vintage Maytag washers beloved by many members here.
If using the Super Searchalator as I suggested above, modify your search terms accordingly. | ||
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Post# 805191 , Reply# 8 1/21/2015 at 15:16 (3,376 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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 The (newer) style that looks like a car's differential is referred to as "orbital" per the gearing inside that drives the agitator (output shaft) ... which is different from the style shown in Reply #3. However, both types are helical drive, which refers to the method used to drive the tranmission's input shaft. So, they're both helical drive ... but one is orbital and one is not. :-) | ||
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Post# 805193 , Reply# 9 1/21/2015 at 15:34 (3,376 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay) |
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I'm not familiar with this level of repair, but let's say the transmission was fine and you were only needing to replace the brake. Could you do it without messing with the transmission? If so, you have your answer.
Strange that you're restricted to 30 minutes between replies as a new member. I've never heard of that, but it might be a defense against spammers and hijackers that our webmaster has implemented. | ||
| Post# 805196 , Reply# 11 1/21/2015 at 16:03 (3,376 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
Hi Colloquor,
May we refer to you as something else? There's not much in your profile, which is Okay, but some kind of name, whether it be an alias or not would be nice. I have to go to an appointment and when I get back I can post some links to other threads that will help you. I guess you know that you can upgrade your account and have full access to all the features offered here like the Super Searchalator, the different forums and so forth. It's only $12.00 a year and there's lots of great information here on all kinds of topics that you can only see if you're an upgraded member. Not trying to pressure you into anything. Just a suggestion. Looks like PayPal and several different type of credit cards are accepted. And the people here are fantastic. Some of the nicest people you'd ever want to meet or chat with, whether it be in person or over the internet. As for the transmission/drive confusion thing; that comes up all the time. There's the orbital style and older standard (Pitman) style transmissions, but the drive is the same on both types of machines, unless you're talking about something really old, like early '50's stuff and before. Helical drive refers to the "helix" that's on the end of the drive shaft that the pulley climes up on when the motor reverses. I'll see if I can give you some more info when I get back. Brian This post was last edited 01/21/2015 at 20:51 | ||
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Post# 805199 , Reply# 12 1/21/2015 at 16:26 (3,376 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions) |
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| Post# 805239 , Reply# 16 1/21/2015 at 20:35 (3,376 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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Here are some threads that might help you. Some of the information will apply and some may not. Most of these threads have the older style Pitman transmission in them, but most of the basics are still the same.
CLICK HERE TO GO TO beekeyknee's LINK | ||
| Post# 805240 , Reply# 17 1/21/2015 at 20:37 (3,376 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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| Post# 805241 , Reply# 18 1/21/2015 at 20:40 (3,376 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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A stop lug adjustment thread. Seems to cause confusion sometimes if you're unfamiliar with it. CLICK HERE TO GO TO beekeyknee's LINK | ||
| Post# 805242 , Reply# 19 1/21/2015 at 20:44 (3,376 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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A long post I made a few years back. Some of this information may help. CLICK HERE TO GO TO beekeyknee's LINK | ||
| Post# 805248 , Reply# 20 1/21/2015 at 21:33 (3,376 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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Post# 805310 , Reply# 21 1/22/2015 at 07:49 (3,375 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Rebuilding an A712 MT Washer
It sounds like you have it pretty well covered, answers to a few of your questions.
You should assemble the damper housing, supension springs, tub support arms and then screw the brake assembly in from below the baseplate, and then set the transmission in place. The brake assembly just gets screwed completly in place and locked in with the little bolt and clip. The spring on the old agitator shaft is part of the old agitator shaft seal [ the new seal is an improved lip seal, so you don't need this part ], at this point it just gets recycled along with the old transmission. It looks like you are having a fun rebuilding project and hopefully you will get many more years use out of this washer, however one of the problems of doing a rebuild like this is many of the NEW replacement parts are not as good as the orignal parts and the machine is not reassembled with the same quality controls as it was orignally, as result it will not likley last as long as it did the first time around without doing additional repair work over the comming years. John L. | ||
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Post# 805365 , Reply# 25 1/22/2015 at 14:40 (3,375 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay) |
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Post# 805419 , Reply# 26 1/22/2015 at 21:19 (3,375 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Rebuilding an A712 MT Washer Hi Don, I assume you are replacing the main water seal in the outer tub, it comes in a kit kit called a mounting stem assembly, this seal kit includes the aluminum part that the wash basket is bolted to. This mounting stem has a lip type water seal installed in the top of it, this lip type seal does not need the spring that is on your old transmissions agitator shaft. | ||
| Post# 805442 , Reply# 27 1/23/2015 at 04:21 (3,374 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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Don,
If you read Drew's thread> www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/T... again thoroughly you will see that the agitator drive shaft seal isn't absolutely necessary. It's just something that he added to help the new type mounting stem with built in lip seal work better. They have a tendency to fail more than the old type mounting stem with separate drive shaft seal. The spring and washer are inside the agitator drive shaft seal and you normally don't see them. It's reply #22, 23 and 24. I've done it and it worked well for me. www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/T... Reply #138, 139 and 140. This is what it looks like. Like John said, you don't have to do this but it might make your repair last longer. www.repairclinic.com/Shop-For-Par... RepairClinic Item # 1480327 or this> partsdr.com/part/6-0a57420-agitat... You put the small end down over the drive shaft, add some grease to the inside threads of the mounting stem and the top of the drive shaft seal, put the mounting stem on, turn it down until snug and give the spanner wrench a few taps with a mini-sledge , (not a rubber mallet like I mentioned in my thread) following the rest of Drew's instructions. You'll be able to see the agitator drive shaft seal pushing up against the lip seal on the mounting stem. That's what makes it last longer. It's just a suggestion. And the rubber water deflector that's on the bottom of your old transmission will need to be moved to your new one. This thing> www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/b... Brian | ||
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Post# 805457 , Reply# 29 1/23/2015 at 07:00 (3,374 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Rebuilding an A712 MT Washer Top agitator shaft seals, Hi Everyone, The orignal type seal was pressed against a SS washer, I am very skeptical as to whether it is a good idea to put this upward pressure against the bottom of a lip type seal that is being used in the new mounting stem. If this pressure dislodges the lip seal you are done, or if the pressure just causes the seal to open up a little again you are done, the old type seal will not work without the SS washer being held in the proper place with the retainer clip, are you also putting the clip and washer under the lip seal ?.
John L. | ||
| Post# 805477 , Reply# 30 1/23/2015 at 08:51 (3,374 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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| Post# 805488 , Reply# 31 1/23/2015 at 10:38 (3,374 days old) by bendixmark (Winchester Mass) | ||
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seal You cant use that old seal with the new stem and seal,the new seal is better they hardly ever leak. | ||
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Post# 805490 , Reply# 32 1/23/2015 at 10:39 (3,374 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Rebuilding an A712 MT Washer Hi Brain, I did not say Drew's method is necessarily wrong and yes I saw his orignal post about using the extra seal, I am only saying I WOULD NOT DO IT, with a brand new transmission- agitator shaft I don't see the need and it might cause a problem and without the SS washer it will not likely work in any event.
After this dual seal method is used on a hundred or so machines and after 15-20 years goes by I might change my mind, but at this time I don't think it is a good idea.
John L. | ||
| Post# 805508 , Reply# 33 1/23/2015 at 13:24 (3,374 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO) | ||
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Well, the old seal can be used with the new stem mount because I've done it. The stainless washer isn't used. That's explained in my thread as well as Drew's. Whether it lasts for ten or fifteen years, I'll have to let you know. It's worked well for over three and I'd do it again if needed. Drew might chime in on this since it was his idea but if I were him I'm not sure I'd want to. Peace out.
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| Post# 805557 , Reply# 34 1/23/2015 at 18:56 (3,374 days old) by DigAPony () | ||
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upward pressure against the bottom of a lip type seal I've wondered about that myself. How about simply reusing the original stem mount with a new boot and agitator shaft seal? | ||
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Post# 805777 , Reply# 36 1/24/2015 at 18:37 (3,373 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay) |
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Post# 805871 , Reply# 38 1/25/2015 at 04:53 (3,372 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions) |
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| Post# 805882 , Reply# 39 1/25/2015 at 06:08 (3,372 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA) | ||
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Wow | ||
| Post# 805948 , Reply# 40 1/25/2015 at 14:04 (3,372 days old) by colloquor () | ||
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Malcolm, That's why my wife wanted to keep it! She really takes care of her appliances. Thanks again to everyone for the kind words. Don | ||
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Post# 806646 , Reply# 42 1/29/2015 at 21:30 (3,368 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio) |
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a FEW MORE YEARS, you say?
like maybe 15 or 20, damn fine work you did. While you still have the bug to restore well built appliances, take on the dryer. De-linting EVERYWHERE inside, a thorough blowout of the motor and then some few drops of oil in the motor bearings, some minor lithium grease on the drum spindle or glides, a firm swipe of rubbing alcohol across the thermostats, a new belt after all this time and a drop of oil on the idler pulley, that matched set of sturdy workhorses might be a reliably working pair for another 15 years.
Your hard work will pay off. | ||
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Post# 806655 , Reply# 43 1/29/2015 at 22:06 (3,368 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay) |
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| Post# 806663 , Reply# 44 1/30/2015 at 00:08 (3,368 days old) by washdaddy (Baltimore) | ||
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CONGRATULATIONS That machine looks great. You did a phenomenal job on it and it should outlast anything new that's out on the market now. | ||
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Post# 810096 , Reply# 46 2/19/2015 at 14:32 (3,347 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Post# 810097 , Reply# 47 2/19/2015 at 15:18 (3,347 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay) |
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I don't know all of the differences, but capacity doesn't appear to be one of them per the water level selector and the copy below the Maytag logo on the left. The 612 has Maytag's version of an "extra large" tub.
With fewer buttons than the 712, that means fewer options, like you can't have a slow wash speed with a normal spin speed -- it's all slow, or it's all normal. Wash and rinse temperature selections are fewer than on the 712 too, with no warm rinse option on the 612.
I think the cycle selections on the timer dial are pretty much the same on both.
Others may have more detailed information about the differences in these two models, and about the dryer as well.
I think $150 is reasonable for the pair, considering that at $75, you're paying less than 10% of the price for a new and frustrating electronic junk front loader, and getting something that will easily outlast one -- even after already providing over 25 years of service. | ||
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Post# 810100 , Reply# 49 2/19/2015 at 16:01 (3,347 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions) |
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Post# 810108 , Reply# 50 2/19/2015 at 18:07 (3,347 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay) |
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Post# 810118 , Reply# 51 2/19/2015 at 19:26 (3,347 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Maytag LA-612 The L is for limited edition, LOL, no it it means that the machine is almond in color.
Your laundry choice should not be between a Samsung [ yuck ] and an old MT that is an energy hog and was only an average performer back in the day. I would look at a new Speed Queen front Load washer, a new SQ could last you the rest of your life, [ depending on your age of course ]. | ||
| Post# 810137 , Reply# 52 2/19/2015 at 20:03 (3,347 days old) by nyvram (Nashville) | ||
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Im intrigued by speed queen but I have made several costly $1500 mistakes with bad front loader after bad. I long for the relative simplicity of my old sears top loader I owned for 15 trouble free years. I regret the day I sold it for $20 as nothing has worked nearly as well since. | ||
| Post# 810154 , Reply# 53 2/19/2015 at 23:06 (3,347 days old) by DigAPony () | ||
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I'd grab them, $150 is a fair price especially since the dryer may need some work. If you come across an A712 in the future the control panel/wire harness could be swapped onto the A612 to keep the matching almond set intact. | ||
| Post# 810166 , Reply# 54 2/20/2015 at 00:53 (3,347 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA) | ||
Don't hold back, John... | ||
| Post# 810363 , Reply# 55 2/20/2015 at 22:34 (3,346 days old) by nyvram (Nashville) | ||
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Quick update: picked up both units today and will hopefully install them next week. Very excited. | ||
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Post# 857815 , Reply# 57 12/22/2015 at 07:57 (3,041 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!) |
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Buy the washer you already have. If it's been running well, a little maintenance will keep it in good shape.
It sounds like you just need to replace the motor glides & springs and re-lube the tracks the motor moves in. A new set of belts probably would be a good idea now too. The video link should help guide you through this relatively simple process. I've recently been working on a new arrival, a 712 version. It's in testing mode in the garage now. What a nice washer. CLICK HERE TO GO TO gansky1's LINK | ||
| Post# 857824 , Reply# 58 12/22/2015 at 08:57 (3,041 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH) | ||
Bearings.
Take out the inner tub and see if it will spin.
Has it been leaking water? You might Need to replace the bearing in the bottom of the outer tub below the mounting stem / boot seal assembly. If it's been leaking, you may need to replace the mounting stem / boot seal, or a part in it. There is also an even cheaper bearing in the top of the brake below the transmission that can have issues, especially if it gets wet. That one tends to make soem noise when it fails. Dave | ||
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