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Thread Number: 5915
Bradford Heating Element |
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Post# 122462 4/16/2006 at 15:38 (6,577 days old) by pulsator  (Saint Joseph, MI) |
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Post# 122507 , Reply# 2 4/16/2006 at 19:22 (6,577 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI) |
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Okay, the heating element, when disconnected, measures 14 ohms. The safety thermostat is bouncing back and fourth between 0 and 200 ohms... The only other thermostat mentioned in the schematic is the control thermostat, which I can't find. I don't have a seperate controller for that on my dryer, so I think it's built into the timer...
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Post# 122522 , Reply# 3 4/16/2006 at 20:39 (6,577 days old) by coldspot66 (Plymouth, Mass) |
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There has to be a cycling thermostat....prolly around the blower housing somewhere....also check the terminal block where the cord is attached to the dryer. Are you getting 220 volts at the receptacle on the wall? | ||
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Post# 122550 , Reply# 4 4/16/2006 at 22:27 (6,577 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis) |
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Jamie when you test those thermostats for continuity with you multimeter set on ohm's be sure to remove one wire from the thermostat. It doesn't matter which wire, but one of the two wires has to be removed. Please don't test that 240volt dryer plugged in and live, its dangerous, its much easier and safer to test for continuity with the dryer unplugged. That's how I always do it. | ||
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Post# 122645 , Reply# 5 4/17/2006 at 11:14 (6,576 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains) |
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control thermostat
These are often placed in the front of the machine, presumably because the temperature at that point comes closest to the temperature the clothes are actually being dryed with. Since it is hooked up in series with the power to the heating element (I doubt this manufacturer went in for fancy relais...) you can ultimately find it by tracing every wire that runs away from the heating element. One of them must lead to the control thermostat. Can you post a shot of the schematic or a few shots of the resistance element wiring, etc?. I put some ideas on your other posting...probably the only one worth repeating here Robert has already mentioned: Don't work on a live circuit if you can avoid it. Apart from the fact that the voltage you measure is of no particular value in diagnostics, it is just plain too dangerous. Good luck!
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Post# 122995 , Reply# 6 4/18/2006 at 18:56 (6,575 days old) by pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI) |
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Post# 123107 , Reply# 7 4/19/2006 at 02:41 (6,575 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains) |
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it does indeed - that double shoe on the bottom
I bet it is, too - that double shoe on the bottom is a give away.(shoe? hope that is the right word...after speaking German for the last 20+ years my English has become kinda kinky). When you replace it, make sure the new one has not only the same temperature rating, but also the same rise/release time. Or as close as possible. The timer settings are based on a certain heat range in the drum. I once dropped the temp 20°Celsius and the customer had to dry everything "twice". She was happy, however, that it no longer baked in the wrinkles... If it is showing infinity, you might want to short the connectors going to it (with insulation tape all around) and see if the heating now runs. If so, that was the problem. Hope my cautious ways aren't driving you crazy - just have a healthy respect for electricity... | ||
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