Thread Number: 59617
/ Tag: Vintage Dryers
Transplanting a WP/KM/Inglis Dryer Console |
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Post# 822199 , Reply# 1   5/6/2015 at 05:25 (3,250 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
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The lint filter might be a bit of a problem since the Inglis dryer you're looking at probably has the 'short' filter; the newer models would have the longer one. I don't know if the width of the filters would be the same. I've got a '66 Sterling that has the short filter -I have a long filter from a later Inglis in storage but I could double check the measurements for you on the weekend when I get back down to Ogden.
There is also a temperature probe on the older Inglis dryers - this would have to be placed in the 'new' dryer drum correctly to ensure proper operation. I wish I had the blasted manual for my Inglis dryer to better explain this...
But the big consideration would be the cabinet styling... The Inglis machines of this era had bottom panels with the molded edge (see pictures) - I think Inglis may have carried this over into later models for their Canadian models, but I'm not sure.
If you do go ahead with this, make sure you have the wiring diagrams of both dryers - if you can save the entire wiring harness along with the dryer console, so much the better.
This sounds like an interesting project - keep us posted how things develop!
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Post# 822233 , Reply# 2   5/6/2015 at 11:10 (3,249 days old) by RevvinKevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land)   |   | |
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Paul, James is talking about only swapping the console / control panel on to a newer cabinet. As such, the size / shape of the lint filter is a non-issue because it's not effected by a control panel swap.
Paul is correct about the cabinet styling however. The shape / detail is different between the newer / older cabinet styles. Something to consider if all the matching details are important.
Kevin |
Post# 822236 , Reply# 3   5/6/2015 at 11:23 (3,249 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
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Post# 824723 , Reply# 5   5/23/2015 at 01:39 (3,233 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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Hi James,
I missed this thread. I noticed that the door hinges are different from the older ones but you could probably reuse just the handle from the door I sent you. I think the most tricky part will be to mount the console to the top (which is different and quite thin on the fluorescent side). I might be wrong but I think you'll need to drill some holes and maybe block some with body filler and touch paint. I wish the whole top from the older machine would fit but the lint filter isn't located exactly at the same place... Tell us what you find! In the worst case, I think that any Canadian Kenmore, Inglis or RCA Whirlpool from 1966 or a bit older should work. Unlike the US models, they seem to have the same style of door and front panels. And I still have the rest of the parts from the machine if you ever need them! |
Post# 824731 , Reply# 7   5/23/2015 at 06:23 (3,233 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
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James, the coil switch looks like a relay - it's a darned good idea to have one in a dryer like this too. Swapping the wires from an older motor to one of the newer ones should not be a problem if the wires from the older dryer motor are marked to identify which terminal they go to; the terminal numbers should still be the same.
I'm going to hunt around in my 'Big Book of Whirlpool Dryers' to see if I have a more intact version of the wiring on the older Inglis that might help. |
Post# 824878 , Reply# 9   5/24/2015 at 11:23 (3,231 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
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Post# 824916 , Reply# 10   5/24/2015 at 17:29 (3,231 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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Hi James,
Here's a picture of the wiring diagram in my RCA Whirlpool dryer. Not exactly like yours but maybe close enough to help... If you need other pics (like one from the motor of your dryer), I can take some more!
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Post# 824921 , Reply# 12   5/24/2015 at 17:49 (3,231 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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I can tell you I didn't disconnect any wire from the timer or the switches in the control panel and that the motor worked when I connected it to 115 volts (and it did stop on the "Off" positions of the timer. I also think I heard the timer motor running while it was at "off" and I was wondering why it seemed to be running on the off position. I haven't even tested my Whirlpool dryer but I noticed that it's written "Start" next to the 5 pushbuttons on both dryers. I don't understand how it works as there's no "stop" button!
I'm also busy looking at the wiring on my washer! There must be something that has been modified when they installed a single speed motor so it would run in all the cycles. |
Post# 824924 , Reply# 13   5/24/2015 at 17:54 (3,231 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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Post# 824947 , Reply# 15   5/24/2015 at 20:16 (3,231 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Post# 824963 , Reply# 16   5/24/2015 at 21:15 (3,231 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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Post# 824991 , Reply# 18   5/25/2015 at 00:08 (3,231 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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Oh that's good news!
The heater is on the left on the older machines too. I don't recall exactly how far the wires were from it in the original cabinet but tomorrow, I'll try to take a picture of mine to show how the wiring is routed and how far it is from the heater.
I guess you'll have to use the door switch from the newer dryer? Does it have a drum lamp?
I can't tell about the timer motor, I noticed it seemed to run on the "off" position but I didn't investigate much.
Did you fit the console on the top? How does it fit? Were there places to fix the fluorescent lamp ballast and starter on the top of the newer machine? |
Post# 825726 , Reply# 21   5/29/2015 at 22:47 (3,226 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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Wow you got a nice result! Congratulations! Does the door from the old lint filter fits over the hole? There are ling lint filters with a recessed handle available for dryers from the late 1960s and early/mid 1970s.
About your timer, does it stopped as supposed with the door closed? I'll have a look at mine to see how it behaves. |
Post# 825734 , Reply# 23   5/30/2015 at 02:18 (3,226 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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James, I just looked at my dryer and the timer motor does stop when the timer goes to off. It advances when the door is opened but not once it's at the "off" position.
My timer has a different part number and connectors in different locations but it's probably similar in function to yours or interchangeable with it. The first thing I'd suggest you to check with a multimeter (with the dryer disconnected) is the continuity between the neutral prong of the plug (the "L" shaped one) and the TM1 terminal of the timer (on the upper left corner) with the door closed and with the door opened. You should see that there's continuity when the door is closed but not when it is opened. I think that's your problem and that the neutral side of the timer remains energized when the door is opened. If that seems fine, do the same test with the ground prong of the dryer plug to see what happens (since Canadian dryers have separate ground and neutral connections). That could be caused by a faulty switch or a neutral wire that's shorted to the ground between the door switch and the timer. Since I think it had the same issue you described before I removed the wiring from the old dryer, I'd suspect the door switch first. How did you adapt the switch to the new dryer? I thought both styles must have been different since the hinges are. The door switch also cuts the continuity between the "TM" terminal of the timer and one of the "hot" prongs of the dryer plug when the door is closed. The timer itself should cut the continuity between the "Y" contact and the "TM" contact at the "off" positions on the dial. If I'm not mistaken, in both the timed and automatic cycles, the timer goes into 3 steps and makes 3 audible "clicks" at the end of the cycle after the third click at the end of both cycles, there should be no continuity between the "Y" contact and the "TM" contact. I hope I didn't mix things up as I'm a bit tired as I write this (It's now past 4 AM here!) Here are 3 pictures of my Whirlpool dryer's timer. The 4th and 5th ones are pictures I took of yours. This post was last edited 05/30/2015 at 03:46 |
Post# 825755 , Reply# 24   5/30/2015 at 05:57 (3,226 days old) by eronie (Flushing Michigan)   |   | |
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Check the door switch connections . I think you have one swaped . Also germ lamp is on only when door is CLOSED, that light is bad for your eyes. This could be your timer issue. Hope this helps . |
Post# 825785 , Reply# 25   5/30/2015 at 10:21 (3,225 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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Tony, it's true that the light from germ lights is bad for our eyes but most dryers (and washers!) that use them use the drum/tub illumination light as a ballast for the germ light so they come on together when the machine works and when the dryer's door is opened.
The exception is some late-model Frigidaire Filtrator dryers that use the door heater as a ballast for the germ light instead of the drum light. So in these, the germ light only comes on when the door is closed (or when the door switch is!)
(click on the picture to see the video) |
Post# 826172 , Reply# 27   6/1/2015 at 23:56 (3,223 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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James,
Before you order a new switch, if you want to make sure it's really what's causing the problem (and not the wiring itself or something else that I might have missed), you should just disconnect the wires from it, (one at a time, and isolate the terminal with a piece of tape), to make sure removing one of the wires makes the timer motor stop when the door is opened... I never had such a problem or replaced one of those switches so I can't tell you more! |
Post# 834310 , Reply# 29   7/29/2015 at 04:21 (3,166 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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Post# 859254 , Reply# 30   12/31/2015 at 08:19 (3,011 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)   |   | |
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Post# 859276 , Reply# 31   12/31/2015 at 11:36 (3,010 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)   |   | |
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Post# 859291 , Reply# 32   12/31/2015 at 12:38 (3,010 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)   |   | |
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