Thread Number: 59687  /  Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
TL vs FL washer
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Post# 822994   5/11/2015 at 20:41 (3,264 days old) by cuffs054 (MONTICELLO, GA)        

I know this is likely to start a lively conversation but that's not what I am aiming for.
I'm selling my 1898 home and moving into a 1869 version. I want all the toys I can afford. The washer issue has me confused. I know that FL are the new thing, but I can buy a matched GE (or Maytag) set of TL that offer the same capacity and will do the load in less than a hour for around $500. That is less than just the washer would be if I went with FL. I won't get steam or any other things but I can't understand why the FL are going to be better. Talk amongst your selves.





Post# 822999 , Reply# 1   5/11/2015 at 21:43 (3,264 days old) by pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)        

pierreandreply4's profile picture
well for 1 thing a top load washer cleans clothes better as well as save time

Post# 823004 , Reply# 2   5/11/2015 at 22:48 (3,264 days old) by washer111 ()        

Modern TL washers are not going to get you anywhere near what you are expecting from a washer.

I think the present recommendation for the "Modern TL" category falls to the new Whirlpool BD machines, which seem to work reasonably well enough from the videos I've seen.
Or the SQ machines - however... There has been controversy here recently over their warranty practices and the build-quality of the machines.

If you want to wash in warm to hot water, most modern machines without heaters (FL machines) are not going to deliver this. Period.
We are now faced with "energy regulations" where smart-asses in Government think they can tell us how hot "hot" should be. As a result, Warm washes are now around 85ºF (30-35ºC, IIRC). That's warm for a swimming pool, but barely tepid to the touch, otherwise.

And, if you do want to wash in truly warm-hot water, with today's energy prices, its seriously worth considering an FL with a booster heater. The cycles named "Steam," "Allergens," "Bulky," "Permanent Press" are the codewords for cycles that use enough water, and water that is as hot as you like.

Recently, I had trouble with staining and the likes on my shirts, with our Miele FL. I was cynical about the performance, and was questioning how it can possibly be working for everyone but me.
It turns out, despite the warm-hot water, cool presoaks and long washes, the detergent I was using wasn't up to the task (Take that "Choice" and your claims of Omo being the best you can buy!). Switching back to an old favourite, Bio-Zet, I found things were looking up. Big time. I also got the local supermarket to order in Drive for FL's, since they stopped stocking it recently.

My recommendation, personally, would be to find something with more European origins. I still have my reservations about the US style machines (FL)... They seem hideously big for the job they're meant to do. However, others may be able to rebut these reservations, and offer positive thoughts.

And fair warning - You've just sent the first gunshot in World War 3, or AutomaticWasher.org's Debate on Which Washer is Best Number 963,931.
I'm getting the popcorn. This is gonna be pretty funny to watch :P


Post# 823018 , Reply# 3   5/12/2015 at 00:51 (3,264 days old) by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.)        

ea56's profile picture
I realize that many who view this website don't want to recognize that GE still makes a TL that is as close to traditonal as you can get next to the Speed Queen. I have been using mine since July 2012 and I can honestly say that it is one of the best washers I have owned in 45 years of owning washers. I've owned Maytags, Fisher-Paykel, Kenmore, Whirlpool, Frigidaire automatics,wringers, twin tubs, auto TL's and FL's over the years. This GE has never disappointed me. There is no ATC, hot is tap hot. It gives a full fill wash and rinse, there is no locking lid, computer or "load sensing". It has never unbalanced and every load comes out thoroughly clean and rinsed, the first time. The controls are simple electro-mechanical, using an old fashioned timer and the price is very reasonable. In my opinion the GE GTWN2800 is far and away superior to the current breed of Whirlpool TL's, but that is just my opinion. I replaced a Whirlpool Cabrio with this GE. The Cabrio was POS. The only other washer that I was ever as pleased with was a Westinghouse FL, it gave 7 years of trouble free service and we sold it with the house and the new owners used it without problems for several years more. But the new FL's have too much computer control to suit me, so I'll stay away from them.



This post was last edited 05/12/2015 at 01:20
Post# 823023 , Reply# 4   5/12/2015 at 02:41 (3,264 days old) by Gpevas (Parma Heights Ohio )        
Top loaders & front loaders?

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I have a wringer washer I mostly do my wash in. I used to have a Kenmore top loader that I trashed after 20 years. I just bought a Kenmore Elite front loader. I got the matching dryer which I LOVE!! The front loader in my opinion does NOT get my cloths clean as my wringer washer. I know parts of our country has a water problem (not enough). We in the Cleveland have our lake and other parts of America have no water issues so I wish they sold regular top,loaders like in the past. Just me venting!!

Post# 823024 , Reply# 5   5/12/2015 at 02:53 (3,264 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        
I switched

askolover's profile picture

to FL in 1997. I grew up with Mom's faithful Maytags and can't complain one bit on their function. My first washer of my own was a used GE filterflo...however, way back in 1988 or 89 I was working in the library in high school and on slow days I could sit and look at all those fancy magazines like "Southern Accents" and "Architectural Digest"....and that's when it happened. I saw an ad for a FL washer from Germany. I called the 800 number (no web address imagine that) and had info sent to my house. It had multiple brands in the packet...Miele, AEG, and maybe Bosch. I knew then I'd have one some day. Forward to 1997...I'm getting ready to buy a house and I've found another brand from Sweden...Asko. I like what I see and read about this brand at this time. So...based on the information I'd read and heard up until that time regarding European products and how good Volvo's were back then (I know, a real educated purchase) so I decided to get one. It was a simple machine, all mechanical, heats its own water, etc. It gets delivered and installed. I wash my first load.....I should have popped some popcorn because I was hypnotized. I thought it was going to fly away when it kicked into high speed spin. It cleaned so well! It got out stains the GE crawled away from. It used hardly any water and my detergent use was cut to 1/4 (no HE detergents then). My clothes dried in 20 minutes in that old $50 Whirlpool electric dryer I found at a yard sale.  Forward to 2005...the motor goes out on the Asko...so I decide to get a "larger American size" machine to replace it.  Got a Maytag (Samsung) Neptune.  HATED IT!  Too darn big! Returned it to Lowes 2 days later and replaced the motor in the much smaller Asko.  You know Everything in America has to be Bigger!  Our fridges are bigger, our washers, dryers, food portions, you name it.  Bigger is not necessarily better.  I personally think these super sized FL machines are going to self-destruct from all the G forces inside with heavy wet clothes.  I'm dreading the day my little Asko can't be fixed because it means I'll have to find some electronic piece of junk to replace an outdated mechanical marvel that's now 18 years old and I just installed its 3rd motor.  Still cheaper than a new washer.

 

As Washer111 said above: 

"My recommendation, personally, would be to find something with more European origins. I still have my reservations about the US style machines (FL)... They seem hideously big for the job they're meant to do."

 

It's late and I'm sleepy so I'm rambling...sorry....I'll say this...I'm still using the same bath towels and washcloths I bought over 12 years ago in a bundle from Costco.....they aren't worn out yet and they get bleached in hot water several times a week.  Mother has replaced hers a few times since I left home after being beaten to death in her faithful old Maytag.  And since the FL uses less water even with a prewash and 4 rinses built in (and I mean deep as in half way or more up the door glass), I don't have to skimp on my showers with a tiny little showerhead that has less water pressure than I do.  My water bill is cheap and my gas bill even cheaper.  And in my big American GE gas dryer, things dry super quick since they are almost dry when they go into the dryer.  Just my .02 at almost 3 in the morning.


Post# 823052 , Reply# 6   5/12/2015 at 09:03 (3,264 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

Usually I'm all for FL.
BUT... You mentioned your new house is 1869... Not knowing how it's build, I will generally question the advantage in such a situation.
You see, FLs wash. Better. Not as fast, but better. If they would not, they wouldn't be all over the globe by now (oppossed to TLs).
Now, the only problem is: While a TL only creates horizontal forces during spin, a FL transfers its force into the flooring.
I'm not a architect, but I guess in a house build in 1869, that could cause a lot of vibration all over the house. So you might check how the flooring is.

But on a set for 500$: DO NOT BUY IT. I mean, OK, it sounds OK, but a washer AND a dryer for 500$ as a set will just never get you any kind of flexibility or durability.
I'm not someone who says only TOL is the best (for most, MOL is just fine), but just think what it means to produce 2 big applainces which need a certain amount of metal, plus quite a work to produce, plus transportation, plus the stores profit. Your washer would be produced for a good 100$, at the most. You simply can't demand anything from a washer that might cost 250$. It *might* *clean* *ok* (and yes, that is spelled intentionally this way), but for how long? Under what circumstances?


Post# 823053 , Reply# 7   5/12/2015 at 09:08 (3,264 days old) by washer111 ()        

While I think vibration may be an issue, I would think people with houses like these might have the set placed in a basement, outdoor laundry or on the ground level where vibration is an issue.

The lessened water loading on the (presumably old) plumbing would probably be beneficial, too.


Post# 823062 , Reply# 8   5/12/2015 at 10:13 (3,264 days old) by washerdude (Canada )        
Well for me..

Its front loader now. We used to have an inglis direct drive top loader. I thought it was the best cleaner out there at first. But when it began to show signs of *major* problems, we thought maybe we should give modern units a try. IMHO, I really don't see HE toploaders being all that effective still and pretty rough on clothing. So we then went for a Whirlpool Duet front loader (WFW72HEDW). When we got it delivered we noticed that the feet were kinda...bent. We used the thing but vibrations were really bad even in a balanced load. Keeping in mind that our laundry room is on the second floor. So we bought new ones, and vibration was cut down by 50 percent. After using this washer for about 7 months. I'm happy with our choice. Vibrations are low for being on the second floor, EVERYTHING comes out clean even on the normal cycle and cycle times are way shorter then our old washer. So my personal choice from now on is a front loader. As for vibrations, I think you should check the floor consdering that its 1869 or have the floor reinforced.

Post# 823069 , Reply# 9   5/12/2015 at 11:38 (3,264 days old) by mr_b ()        
Recent FL Convert

Living in drought ravaged San Diego, when it was time to replace our top load washer of twenty years, we went with a Speed Queen front loader. Our water went from 45 gallons a load to under around 12 gallons a load. A normal wash is done in 45 minutes and it has dynamic balancing during the spin cycle thus no vibration. This machine runs quiet and it came with a 5 year warranty. Oh, and it cleans clothes well also. It holds almost three bushel baskets of laundry (22 lbs. or 3.43 cubic feet) and is no bigger than my previous washer being 27 inches wide (about 69cm). I have been using Tide detergent with great results and I am planning on trying Pesil when the Tide runs out now that it is available at Walmart. This machine is not fancy but it gets the job done faster than most FL's.

Post# 823101 , Reply# 10   5/12/2015 at 16:03 (3,264 days old) by liamy1 (-)        
As much...

As I love TL machines, FLs win in every respect. FL clean better, are gentler on clothing, in most instances offer a bigger capacity and of course are more energy efficient.

Of course, a machine (whatever type) is only going to be as good as to the needs of the user it meets.


Post# 823106 , Reply# 11   5/12/2015 at 16:19 (3,264 days old) by jerrod6 (Southeastern Pennsylvania)        

As someone mentioned above water use plummets with the use of a FL, and this is ONE of the reasons I won't consider a Top loader.  Even the energy efficient TL are rated by efficiency in  "Their class" because even these use more water than a FL.  

 

Also agree that buying one for $500 today is equivalent to buying a $250 model 15 years ago.  You know it isn't going to last at all. 


Post# 823111 , Reply# 12   5/12/2015 at 17:21 (3,264 days old) by cuffs054 (MONTICELLO, GA)        

EA56, that's exactly what I'm looking for. I don't know if the new GE will actually give tap hot and full rinse, but I just can't see the big bucks for a FL that may not last. SQ still has tap hot and full rinse but they are very proud of them.

Post# 823114 , Reply# 13   5/12/2015 at 17:47 (3,264 days old) by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.)        

ea56's profile picture
Cuffs054, that was exactly the way I looked at it too. I know that the current GE GTWN2800 will still give a full fill rinse simply by using the Power Rinse option, And I'm pretty sure that you will still get hot water at the same temp as it comes from your water heater, mine does and I don't see that they have made any changes. If the Speed Queen FL wasn't so expensive, $1,799.99 in my area, plus $79.95 for del. I would consider it as I do feel guilty using so much water during our drought here in Calif. But I conserve water every other way that I can and I really do love my GE TL, it works great, its simple and it completes a super size load in 45-50 mins., plus I can wash a king size comforter or bedspread, saving the expense and inconvenience of going to the laundromat. I can complete a full weeks wash for 2 adult men( except bedding, I change the bed on a different day) in 2 hrs. 15 mins. thats 3 loads washed and dried. To me thats pretty good. I don't often recommend products, but I feel confident that anyone looking for a good, basic, old school washer at a reasonable price (on sale the washer and dryer are approx. $500 to $539 each) will be happy with this machine.



This post was last edited 05/12/2015 at 20:46
Post# 823845 , Reply# 14   5/17/2015 at 09:57 (3,259 days old) by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)        
FL washer!!!

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as long as it has a built in heater and cycles like bulky, allergen, etc that use more water - would be my choice.

Post# 824004 , Reply# 15   5/18/2015 at 10:37 (3,258 days old) by cuffs054 (MONTICELLO, GA)        

The search continues. Went to my default site (Sears. Actually Kmart) and found this washer. The best it can offer is a Downy Ball for softner!

CLICK HERE TO GO TO cuffs054's LINK


Post# 824007 , Reply# 16   5/18/2015 at 11:09 (3,258 days old) by electron1100 (England)        
Dirty for years

electron1100's profile picture
I am puzzled, I have the impression that America washed its clothes in centre post machines for about 40-50 years, now FL machines are making inroads into your country, am I to assume that Americans walked around in grubby clothes for all those years? I think this because of the superior washing claims made for FL machines.

I grew up with twin tubs and FL machines and on the one occasion I had a centre post machine it washed and rinsed really well

Also the efficiency of a machine cant be commented on until the machine dies, thinking of one member on here who lives in a European country that produces some of the best machines available chose a machine that was made half way round the world and so had to be shipped from the far east to Europe and it then only lasted 18 months, is this good efficiency I think not.

So machines that use as little energy as possible, do get dirty clothes clean all the time and are made in the buyers country and last a good 10 years can be perhaps be considered efficient.

Also from what I deduce about machines in America the SQ is a home made machine that is well built and performs well, if they made one with a heater then you might be on to something, other than that sneak over here and buy a European machine :-)

If you are going to live in area that does not have water issues why not get a older centre post machine, plenty of help if you need it on here and washday will be so much more FUN :-)

Good Luck
Gary


Post# 824012 , Reply# 17   5/18/2015 at 12:12 (3,258 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        
Was that me? ;)

Yeah. The Panasonic was a great machine. As long as it worked. (Sorry if you did not mean me!)

TLs do wash. They do rinse. They do both fine. But when it comes down to stuff like pillows, heavy soiled whites and such, FLs are just outscoring. Mostly just by the basic physics of the FL it self.

You have to divide between efficency and ecological impact.
Efficency it self is defined by the cost for the consumer buying, using and getting rid of the product.
The efficency we usually talk about only focuses on the usage of the machine as buying and trashing usually cost the same for about equal TLs and FLs. That data deterines it's running efficency as well.
You talked about the overall impact a machine has on the enviroment. That includes production, shipping, using and trashing. So, efficency is not equal ecoloigcal impact.

On a side note: Washers and simmilar big goods are usually shipped by ship (no pun intended) if they come from China etc. And ships are incerdibly efficent in terms of fuel on long distance journeys if broken down to what they can transport in one go. They still produce a lot of CO₂, but are far better than planes for example.


Post# 824015 , Reply# 18   5/18/2015 at 12:37 (3,258 days old) by electron1100 (England)        
amusing

electron1100's profile picture
an amusing response in as much as you cannot see that a machine with a short service life does not reflect on its efficiency and ecological impact, to me the two are very much part and parcel of the same deal.

What would be the point of buying a machine that used only 2 ltr of water to do an entire wash if you had to buy a new one every 6 months because it wears out

Your Panasonics environmental impact was initially in the country where it was made, then the shipping and transport of the machine from the docks to your home, the time and effort spent trying to get it repaired, this machines claim to be "ECO" friendly is 0.

The new rules in France makes absolute sense about the length of Guarantee, the price of parts for the item, this will perhaps keep the public from buying junk just because it is cheap.

Expected life should always be factored in to the efficiency rating of a machine

Gary


Post# 824019 , Reply# 19   5/18/2015 at 13:21 (3,258 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

For us, the machine wasn't efficent at all by your definition.

But though it was rather resource efficent when used, it was everything but cheap when baught. It had rather big impact on the enviroment, however, that did not make it less efficent in terms of usage.
Efficent during use: Yes.
Efficent while production: Average.
Efficent during shipping: less.
Final impact on the enviroment: Bigger than usual.

You do make a perfectly true point: One SHOULD consider the whole impact, not only the efficency.
But, who should rate the impact how? I mean, one can guestimate the way through, but then companys would sue the heck out of the EU as one could argue you can't unify the impact and durability testing.
However you can unify the testing for the usage.

And, being honest, I doubt that transportation is such a tremendous difference seen what it takes to produce a washer. Just think about what it takes to produce the metal and get it into shape. Not knowing the exact numbers, but I guess if one WOULD go picking numbers about that, CO₂ emmisions for steel production would outweigh the transportation emmisions by quite a bit.

And personally I think a consumer should have enough mind about what he is buying him self. Not that I don't mean regulations are bad, but I think a consumer can weigh for him self if he is OK with a machine beimg shipped from China.


Post# 824020 , Reply# 20   5/18/2015 at 13:21 (3,258 days old) by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)        
No Grubby Clothes

mark_wpduet's profile picture
Most of the conventional agitator TL washers did a great job if you didn't over load them, but they could be rough on clothes. I think the ONLY reason FL washers started making their way into the USA is the need for energy conservation. If you notice when the first entered they were HE (high efficiency), but the ones in EURO weren't, they were just normal front load washers all those years....When we finally get the FL washers becoming popular here, they are all HE....Not to mention that we don't have 220 or 240 voltage for washers....We do for the dryer, range, so why not a washer? I dunno....

Post# 824054 , Reply# 21   5/18/2015 at 19:28 (3,258 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        
220v

askolover's profile picture
Yeah, the only way to get a 220/240V washer is to get one from across the pond...like Asko, Miele, Bosch, Fagor, Blomberg, etc. I'd gladly buy an American one if I could get it with a true boosted HOT wash for whites! I wish I could build my own. Asko is my favorite due to their front door seal simplicity, but their reliability has gone to pot in recent years.

Post# 824068 , Reply# 22   5/18/2015 at 20:56 (3,257 days old) by laundromat (Hilo, Hawaii)        

This post has been removed by the member who posted it.



Post# 824075 , Reply# 23   5/18/2015 at 21:25 (3,257 days old) by laundromat (Hilo, Hawaii)        

laundromat's profile picture
In all the decades i've been collecting appliances and have seen or had pretty much every method of agitation in washing machines, my preference is front loading washers. Unlike most people who assume they're a new idea,you're wrong. Bendix introduced them back in 1938. They had a pre wash,main wash,three ringers (one spray to remove excess suds and soap scrum, a spin,then two deep rinsed and a final high speed spin dry.) Sound familiar? Yes the Westinghouse Laundronats had a similar method. You can wash shoes,sleeping bags,tents,huge bed spreads,rugs,stuffed toy animals...,etc. Not recommended to be washed in a top loading agitator washer. No sharp agitator gains,lower water usage,lower detergent usage,higher speed spin that extracts more water and no transmission.Flush,lift,turn,tumble about 60 times a minute. Twelve seconds of clockwise tumbling,a three second pause then twelve more counterclockwise. In my LG models, there is no pre set spin direction. A rarity. because the others are set to spin counterclockwise at the factory.Fourteen hundred rpm final spin,huge capacity and a great reputation in CR for most dependable, fewest repairs,great performance and friendly design.i have had mine four years now and got them free from Sallys Shop and Smith's. No washer I ever had before outperformed my LGs. They also have quick cycles. A wash with two rinsed in 35 minutes. I use that for bath towels and daily wardrobe. I use the longer cycles for bed linens, rugs,and Jim's work clothes.Extremely quiet and fun to watch as it gets my clothes spotless.

Post# 824147 , Reply# 24   5/19/2015 at 10:12 (3,257 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

My SQ, Creda and both Mieles spin clockwise.

Post# 824165 , Reply# 25   5/19/2015 at 12:18 (3,257 days old) by oliveoiltinfoil (England, UK)        

oliveoiltinfoil's profile picture
It is surprising to hear that some Fl washers in North America don't have heating elements for the water.

Heating elements in modern washers are more efficient and more durable than they used to be. Most European machine these days are cold fill only, however, EBAC, the British washer manufacture are bringing back hot fill as they claim it is quick and cheaper to sue hot fill than for a washer to heat its water, but I am not sure that would suit everyone, although it will be nice t have the option.

Front loaders spin faster, are generally quitter, clean clothes better while using less water and energy and take up less space.


Post# 824173 , Reply# 26   5/19/2015 at 12:52 (3,257 days old) by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)        
It is amazing though

mark_wpduet's profile picture
that even at 110 V, my American Duet gets REALLY hot on sanitary. Obviously not boiling hot, but in the 150's F I think, although I think the newer Duets get to the 130s F on Sanitary? I'm not sure why that temp went down and I could be wrong, it's just something I remember reading. But when my Duet is on Sanitary, the outside of the machine feels like dishwasher that's been running a long time, so you know that water is HOT and you know what comes out of there is going to be clean...Having had a built in heater on my washer for ten years, I just couldn't go to one without one, and that's the only reason I wouldn't get a SQ, because I know SQ's are superior quality to the others.

Post# 824179 , Reply# 27   5/19/2015 at 14:05 (3,257 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        
130°F

Than, sanitation won't be approved by the NSF most likely. They require to remove 99,5% of bacteria to be removed. Though they do not mention a temperature, it's rather difficult to reach this at 130°F. 140°F sounds more like what's doable. But of corse, one could programm a temp hold from, let's say, 130°, for 20 minutes, with a target temp of 150°. That would shorten the cycle, probably ensure sanitation and get you a super hot wash.

The Allergy approvement requires 131°F for 3 (in think not consecutive) minutes. So, an Allergy cycle will most likely be faster, but not as sanitary.

However: I can still get 180°F out of our AEG (Electrolux) and probably more from the Bauknecht (Whirlpool; probably north of 190°, close to 200°). How I love my 240V ;)


Post# 824181 , Reply# 28   5/19/2015 at 14:31 (3,257 days old) by jerrod6 (Southeastern Pennsylvania)        

Growing up my mother had a westinghouse FL machine so it is correct that they are not a new technology in the USA.  There were separate instructions on detergent one for top loaders and one for front loaders, so one detergent was used for both.

 

I got my Miele washer in 2003 and I don't think the new version of front loaders were on the market here in the USA until after that.  There was no He detergent until these washers hit the market.  The thing that makes them He is nothing more than the fact that they were using less water than a traditional top loader so I think the term He was branding used to get consumers to buy the product and ofcourse the Energy Star program played a large role in this.

 

My machine is 220V and the advantage is that it can start with a cold fill in a prewash and heat it to warm or hot , very fast.  My machine can do a 190F load in 54 minutes, so I think the advantage of 220V is high heat and less time required. 

 

We probably don't have 220V washers here because the entire country is running off 110V.  To use an electric dryer or range you must pay extra to run 220V to the appliance.  Most people pay for a dryer, but no one is used to having to pay to run electric to a washer.....Thus we are minus 220V washers. 

 

Miele still sells a 220V machine but it is more expensive than other washers on the market.  Most people are not going to buy it.


Post# 824182 , Reply# 29   5/19/2015 at 15:19 (3,257 days old) by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)        
Wait.

mark_wpduet's profile picture
Could you just unplug the dryer and plug the washer into the dryer outlet, then when the wash is done, plug the dryer in?

LOL - I know that isn't very practical, but I guess if you have easy access to the plugs, you could.


Post# 824193 , Reply# 30   5/19/2015 at 16:43 (3,257 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
Heaters in Washers

mrb627's profile picture
Are slowly going away. Even now, machines that have them are getting cooler and cooler hot limits. Detergents will have to get better to keep up, but it is happening...

Malcolm


Post# 824196 , Reply# 31   5/19/2015 at 17:00 (3,257 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

I don't think so.
LG swapped out most of their steam generators for washes at 65°C (150°F) or simmilar on the US models.
Everybody still offers Sanatize cycles without Oxi and they need at least 140°F, if not more.
Washers with heaters can be found further down the line today.
And even TLs now get heaters.


Post# 824202 , Reply# 32   5/19/2015 at 17:19 (3,257 days old) by LordKenmore (The Laundry Room)        

lordkenmore's profile picture
>Could you just unplug the dryer and plug the washer into the dryer outlet, then when the wash is done, plug the dryer in?

>LOL - I know that isn't very practical, but I guess if you have easy access to the plugs, you could.

More practically, perhaps someone could create an adapter of some sort. Perhaps an adapter that creates 2 outlets out of one. Or perhaps the washer could have a plug that is like Christmas tree lights. Plug it into the dryer outlet, and plug the dryer into the back of the washer plug.

However, there would be problems. The big one is that I'm guessing it would only be safe running one appliance at a time. And the washer and dryer would need to be close to each other. They usually are, but I've seen plenty of setups where the dryer is located away from the washer. Indeed, my current laundry room is such a setup, although I think a cord from a washer could still reach the dryer outlet. But I have seen at least 2 basement installations where the washer is quite a distance away.





Post# 824209 , Reply# 33   5/19/2015 at 17:57 (3,257 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        
Asko

askolover's profile picture

If a person has an Asko pair, the washer just plugs into the back of the dryer...and you can use both at the same time.  I don't have a pair...my dryer is a GE gas one.  I don't like electric dryers.  Gas does the same job for much much less $$$ in this part of the country.  And it's my understanding that our electricity is cheaper than most other parts of the country due to TVA.


Post# 824213 , Reply# 34   5/19/2015 at 18:13 (3,257 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
Nope.

mrb627's profile picture
Heaters are a dying fad my friend.
Sanitary temp went from 170 down to something like 130 in a couple of years. Soon, sanitizing will be chemically handled, not thermally.
It is coming, accept it.

Malcolm


Post# 824215 , Reply# 35   5/19/2015 at 18:44 (3,257 days old) by laundromat (Hilo, Hawaii)        

laundromat's profile picture
Tom,
The Miele Touchtronic giant capacity washer I have and the SQ commercial ones I used at the laundromat spin counterclockwise.


Post# 824216 , Reply# 36   5/19/2015 at 18:47 (3,257 days old) by laundromat (Hilo, Hawaii)        

laundromat's profile picture
I use the sanitary cycles for rugs,bath towels,sheets and pillows. Once in a while,my running shoes. Otherwise,hot or warm wash,cold rinse.

Post# 824217 , Reply# 37   5/19/2015 at 19:00 (3,257 days old) by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture

My 2 year old Duet, Sanitary is 155 to 158.  Mark, Allergen is what heats to 130 degrees.  It has an NSF certification, but different than the 155 degree sanitize certification. 


Post# 824218 , Reply# 38   5/19/2015 at 19:01 (3,257 days old) by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture

Malcolm, I hope not all models will have that end result.  I hope they'll still offer one model with the heating capabilities. 


Post# 824220 , Reply# 39   5/19/2015 at 19:02 (3,257 days old) by murando531 (Augusta, Georgia - US)        

murando531's profile picture
I wouldn't be surprised if heaters disappear from dishwashers entirely as well. Ironic, because I've always been told that it takes less energy for a dishwasher with a well placed/well performing heating element to heat the small amount of water than for the water heater to be set to 140+ to have the same effective temperatures.

In my opinion, chemicals are an aid, but shouldn't be relied on entirely for effective cleaning. Any chemicals that are meant to replace natural heat, water , and time can't be good for skin or our environment.


Post# 824230 , Reply# 40   5/19/2015 at 19:58 (3,256 days old) by logixx (Germany)        

logixx's profile picture
If the washer and dryer shared one outlet, manufacturers could programm/sync the appliances so that the dryer won't start until the washer has finished heating - or the dryer could run on a lower heat setting while the washer heats.

I don't think heating elements are on their way out... but they might be replaced by alternatives like heat pumps. V-Zug already has a dishwasher that combines both heating methods and can still run a full cycle (2x wash, 2x rinse, dry) in 43 minutes if needed. They also have a washer with heat pump and regular heater.


Post# 824235 , Reply# 41   5/19/2015 at 20:19 (3,256 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
140 Tank Heat

mrb627's profile picture
Will be gone sooner than you think, too. Replaced by tankless water heaters. Tank heaters are already being banned in many areas. The Eco-police will get their way, you'll see.

Malcolm


Post# 824245 , Reply# 42   5/19/2015 at 21:36 (3,256 days old) by Imperial70 (MA USA)        

It's scary but true.  I think Malcolm is correct.   What's next after that.  No more heating elements on stoves. Raw uncooked food is more efficient. :-)

 

That may be a joke, but actually it is scary to think about hot water being a thing of the past.


Post# 824247 , Reply# 43   5/19/2015 at 21:38 (3,256 days old) by warmsecondrinse (Fort Lee, NJ)        

Most older homes in the US are heated by steam or hot water radiators. All of these allow for a hot water coil to be installed as well. Cold water is piped into what is essentially a radiator that is suspended in the tank of the boiler. The now heated water flows out to the rest of the house.

In the winter this saves energy as one is heating the water in the boiler anyway to heat the house. In the summer it's less efficient as one has to turn on the boiler to heat up a large tank of water in order to take a shower. even when other types of heating were used, the notion of heating all one's hot water in one place remained, hence large water heaters.
---------------
Perosnally, I'd lean toward a FL. However, were I to go with a TL, it would HAVE to have a manual adjustment for load size, an internal heater, and both 'sanitary' and 'allergen' cycles to ensure that both hot and warm washes are actually available.

Jim


Post# 824269 , Reply# 44   5/20/2015 at 01:35 (3,256 days old) by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)        
When was it EVER 170F?

mark_wpduet's profile picture
Having a ten year old FL washer, mine heats on Sanitary to the 150s F. I thought the newer Duet/Maytag's etc temp went down to 130, but appnut just said that was allergen, not sanitary....So my ten year old duet and his 2 year old Duet have the same sanitary temp. If that's true, then it didn't go down.

Post# 824274 , Reply# 45   5/20/2015 at 03:01 (3,256 days old) by tolivac (greenville nc)        

240V for washers.I know of a man that had TWO 240V outlets run in his garage for his woodworking power tools.A 15A outlet for his table saw and a 60A one for his planer.I would think if it could be done for tools--why not a washer?The washer would have its own outlet and line-so bote washer and dryer could be used at once-same with the woodworker-he could have someone using the saw at the same time the planer was used.The tools came in handy--he replaced the tile floors in his home with wood salvaged from a barn and a mill.Its very nice!

Post# 824277 , Reply# 46   5/20/2015 at 04:14 (3,256 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        
tankless water heaters

askolover's profile picture
Post# 824279 , Reply# 47   5/20/2015 at 05:27 (3,256 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)        

foraloysius's profile picture
Solar water heaters are hot here. (No pun intended). They are always combined with a tankless water heater for guaranteeing a minimum of temperature.

Post# 824281 , Reply# 48   5/20/2015 at 05:45 (3,256 days old) by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture

I live in an all-electric house.  I doubt there's enough total power coming into my house to support the added voltage needed to support what's already here plus add what's needed for a tankless electric.  Cost a freakin fortune with an electrician.  what if I didn't have the money?  My kwh/month consumption went down when I got my Whirlpool EnergySmart water heater in 2003 and I can control the temp up to 160 degrees. 

 


Post# 824282 , Reply# 49   5/20/2015 at 06:07 (3,256 days old) by washer111 ()        
@appnut

Did your electrical consumption worsen or improve with the arrival of your FL machine, and frequent high-temperature washes?

(Only curious. Ours went up, Cold fill Miele. Our previous TL was cold-only, hot tap wasn't working, never repaired. Hot would be free for us, if it were fitted)


Post# 824294 , Reply# 50   5/20/2015 at 08:50 (3,256 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
Bosch Nexxt machines

mrb627's profile picture
heated to 170 on the Sanitary program.

Malcolm


Post# 824297 , Reply# 51   5/20/2015 at 09:45 (3,256 days old) by PassatDoc (Orange County, California)        

Here in California, given our drought situation, most people buying new machines choose a FL because they save water. We don't have the luxury of using 2-4 times more water per load. They take longer to do a load than a TL, but most of the time is recouped by shorter drying times, since the load is spun so much drier by the FL. So the total time to wash AND DRY a load is somewhat less with a FL.

Post# 824314 , Reply# 52   5/20/2015 at 11:13 (3,256 days old) by vacbear58 (Sutton In Ashfield, East Midlands, UK)        
Warning

vacbear58's profile picture
Askolover

Can you remove that link from your last posting, as my antivirus (ESET) pricked up a Trojan on it - better check your computer too

Al


Post# 824321 , Reply# 53   5/20/2015 at 11:58 (3,256 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
Askolover, it'd be interesting to read but the link you provided doesn't work for me.  I went to the source site and clicked the article link there, still doesn't work.  Several links there don't work.

I don't think tankless *electric* water heaters will ever become the unit of choice due to the large instantaneous current demand they pull.  Electric utilities like steady loads so they don't have to keep a lot of reserve capacity available.  Gas tankless units are fairly popular.  They also pull a large gas draw but that's generally less of a concern/problem than a sudden uptick in electric amperage draw.

That being said, I do like my electric tankless (which I didn't choose, it was already in the house I bought).  It's small, wall-mounted, requires no venting, and can produce heated water at any temp from 50°F to 140°F for as long as the water runs.  I keep it set at 102°F (which helps keep the electric demand draw down) for showering, adjust as needed for washing clothes or occasional hand-washing dishes, dishwasher has on-board heating.


Post# 824328 , Reply# 54   5/20/2015 at 13:08 (3,256 days old) by jerrod6 (Southeastern Pennsylvania)        

In the USA when Miele was selling 220V washers they had a plug so that you would plug the washer and the dryer into the same thing. My machine is older so there is no such thing as a sanitary cycle. Instead you have cycles by fabric type(cotton, perma press, delicates, wool, silk,jeans, dress shirts) and then within each cycle you select the temperature you want to use. So on Cottons the temperatures you can select are tap cold, 105F, 120F, 140F, or 190F, other cycles have different ranges. The model before this one had more selections in the cottons cycle. I don't really care if things are sanitized that much but I do have one load that is done at 190F. Other than that I use 105 - 140F. 140F only on cottons and not all the time so usually 120F is my norm. The thing I like about 220V is that I can do a pre-wash in cold water and have it gradually heated to warm so that stains can be treated, the other thing is that it is fast...no long waiting around for the temperature to rise. I also read someplace that 220V is actually more efficient that 120V so in energy terms you are using a little less than if you did the same cycle at 120V.

 

The only other thing about my model is that chlorine bleach is not allowed to be used in it because it has a solid stainless steel outer drum, so I guess it's 190F if you want to actually really kill anything.  I am holding on to this thing until it cannot be fixed.


Post# 824346 , Reply# 55   5/20/2015 at 15:51 (3,256 days old) by warmsecondrinse (Fort Lee, NJ)        
Regarding TL's...

I don't think I was a little too vague in my earlier post. One must differentiate among top loaders. There are 2 basic types.

1. 'Old fashioned' (i.e what we grew up with) with an agitator and user selected water levels.

2. HE machines, with a rotating washplate at the bottom. to my mind these fall into 2 groups;

a) Fully automatic, load sensing machines in which the user does NOT select the load size or water level. I'm not aware of any that have a recirculating spray of wash water. It seems to me that most people who hate HE TL's are talking about this group. ALL of my previous negative comments about HE TL's referred to this group.

b) Very similar appearing machines that allow a person to select load size and/or water level. Many of these also have a recirculating spray. Just my opinion, but I think most people who are happy with their HE TL's have this type.

Until very recently I was unaware that type 2b even existed. I just want to make the distinction in case others are unaware as I was.

I WOULD buy a washer like 2b if I read enough positive reviews, but there's no way I'll ever spend my money on a 2a.

As always, if I've gotten something wrong, PLEASE correct me!

Jim


Post# 824359 , Reply# 56   5/20/2015 at 17:41 (3,256 days old) by logixx (Germany)        
Group 2a

logixx's profile picture
HE top loaders with recirculation are available from Whirlpool, Maytag, GE, Samsung, Fisher & Paykel and probably others. The one big brand without this feature would be LG. Instead, these washers use WaveForce (if so equipped) to throw water over the load as the drum spins during the wash ->

CLICK HERE TO GO TO logixx's LINK


Post# 824408 , Reply# 57   5/20/2015 at 23:47 (3,255 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        
Vacbear

askolover's profile picture

The link was to waterheaterrescue.com

When I click on it it works and my Norton didn't kick it out.  I've been reading that site for years without any problems.  I don't know what the trouble is. 

 

DaDoes - I just now went to the site and clicked every link and they work for me.  Who knows what's going on? 


Post# 824411 , Reply# 58   5/20/2015 at 23:54 (3,255 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        
Bleach

askolover's profile picture

Asko says bleach isn't "recommended or required" in my machine, but I've been using it for 18 years no problems...and it has stainless inner and outer drums.  No crud build up either.  I can take the paddles out and there are large access holes in the inner drum to retrieve any items that may have gotten in between.  The outer drum is still shiny all the way around!


Post# 824428 , Reply# 59   5/21/2015 at 02:22 (3,255 days old) by qualin (Canada)        

Without beating this thread to death...

My 2004-vintage GE toploader consumed 180 litres of water per cycle. 90 litres every single time the tub filled. If a second rinse was selected, it would consume 270 litres of water.

Comparing that to my Huebsch, it normally consumes about 83 Litres of water per cycle. About 90 litres if I select an extra rinse.

So, therre is absolutely no doubt in my mind that the operating costs of a front loader are certainly lower than that of a traditional Non-HE top loading machine.

What I can't understand is why there isn't more traditional top loading machines which have spin cycles which match that of front loaders. (Not counting the old Fridgidaire machines) The LG and Samsung HE top loaders will reach what, 1200 RPM on a high speed spin?

Another thing I thought I should mention is that ever since I switched to using a front loader, my clothing isn't getting ripped or torn anymore. My GE top load machine seemed to hate my comforter slips (Maybe this was just user error) and occasionally would rip one of my shirts, despite the short stroke agitation.

The debate on FL vs TL has been going on a while in this forum and it is a hot topic which has been discussed numerous times. On this forum, it could almost be considered a "religious" matter. :-)

Realistically? IMHO I'm glad I switched to using a front loader. My biggest beef about it is that when loading it, clothes tend to fall out until I lightly pack them in. Ideally, my perfect washer would be a European style top loading H-Axis washer. (Think of a front loader, but with the door being on the top.)

It is a shame they don't sell them in Canada.. and I've heard lots of negative things about Staber washers, so in some ways I'm glad I didn't buy one.


Post# 824433 , Reply# 60   5/21/2015 at 05:28 (3,255 days old) by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture

My electric consumption went down.  Shorter drying times.  Lowered my water heater temp to 120 since washer & dishwasher heat their water during cycles. 


Post# 824444 , Reply# 61   5/21/2015 at 07:00 (3,255 days old) by Frigilux (The Minnesota Prairie)        

frigilux's profile picture
Front-loader, for all the reasons listed by previous posters: Less water and energy consumption, excellent cleaning, super-fast spin speeds, gentle on fabrics.



Post# 824473 , Reply# 62   5/21/2015 at 10:48 (3,255 days old) by washerdude (Canada )        
Heres another thing about front loaders

When we got our new duet, we could tell a difference in how dry the clothing was right away. Further more, this resulted in clothes being dryed in just 30 minutes. With our old washer they toke about 50-40 minutes. I also notice how i dont need to split drying towels in a different load because of how wet they are. Now, everything in the washer goes right into the dryer without splitting. This is just another reasons why i think front loaders are far better.

Post# 824475 , Reply# 63   5/21/2015 at 10:55 (3,255 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)        

foraloysius's profile picture
Ah yes, Staber!

www.staber.com/washingmachines...

They don't get mentioned much here. Anyone bought one lately?



Post# 824479 , Reply# 64   5/21/2015 at 12:03 (3,255 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        
@qualin

Give me 20 years and if everything works out like I'd like, you'll have them ;)

Just today on the way home I thought: Why not a Westinghouse FL style cabinet with a drum simmilar to a EU TL? Would seriously be quite an innovation...


Post# 824514 , Reply# 65   5/21/2015 at 15:24 (3,255 days old) by LordKenmore (The Laundry Room)        

lordkenmore's profile picture
>What I can't understand is why there isn't more traditional top loading machines which have spin cycles which match that of front loaders.

My assumption is that washers with higher spin speeds end up being more expensive to make. At one time, energy was cheap and seemingly endless, and so reducing drying time was probably considered of little importance. When energy costs did go up for the first time, companies were stuck with older washer designs, and re-engineering was probably expensive. There may have been the mentality of "spend as little to address energy savings as possible." A cold water rinse as standard is easier/cheaper than a revised transmission...


Post# 824533 , Reply# 66   5/21/2015 at 17:09 (3,255 days old) by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)        
Good point.

mark_wpduet's profile picture
Are SQ's made as well now as they were 30 years ago? Who knows. But I'm sure they are still better made than the others.

Now, I know back in 2005, when I bought my Duet and started acct on this forum and another forum, (back then) - and people were talking about everything being "JUNK" today (back in 2005) and not made like it used to be, so that hasn't changed ten years later. I would have never believed after years of hearing spiders failing, control boards, explosions from spinning, etc, that my washer would still be working great. It would be interesting to know whether they have cheapened the washers even more than in 2005, because on my Duet, I was sure the handle would break because it's a very cheap handle, but I've always been careful with it.

Could it be just luck? Or my washing habits? Who knows...


Post# 824692 , Reply# 67   5/22/2015 at 20:30 (3,253 days old) by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.)        

This post has been removed by the member who posted it.



Post# 824755 , Reply# 68   5/23/2015 at 09:47 (3,253 days old) by PassatDoc (Orange County, California)        

My Frigidaire 2140, purchased March 2006, gave me eight years of perfect service. I gave it and the matching dryer to my neighbor last year, it's still working fine more than nine years after purchase (I bought a new Electrolux set when the neighbor's washer gave out, then handed the Frigidaire set over to him).



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