Thread Number: 62983  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
My new Maytag A407
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Post# 855417   12/6/2015 at 20:00 (597 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        

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Just picked up an A407 ser# 459759UB from a friend and cleaned her all up and washed my first load and love it. How do I find the year it was made? I know right off the bat its going to need belts they look original and stretched. The slides on the motor are kinda sticky and will need cleaning. I was surprised the trans didnt have a fill plug to top off any oil. The pilot light also flickers when the machine is on so that will need replacing and I noticed after the machine came to the end of the cycle and shut off the light didnt go off either until I pushed the timer knob in. Is this normal? Other than that it runs great and was worth the $50.00 plus free help getting it home.I hope I get some years out of it unless an older model with back lit panel in better shape comes along first. :)

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Post# 855418 , Reply# 1   12/6/2015 at 20:09 (597 days old) by FEster (Lafayette La USA)        
Good score !

I dig those center dial Maytags. My faves have the one with the back lit glass, but the blue/green and gold backs are a close second.

Post# 855419 , Reply# 2   12/6/2015 at 20:11 (597 days old) by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor)        

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Yes, you do have to push the timer in to shut the pilot light off. It is definitely from the 60's but is the same as my 84 Maytag as far as its construction.

Post# 855425 , Reply# 3   12/6/2015 at 20:45 (597 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        

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Thanks for the info. Where is the best place to buy the correct belts online? Is that pilot light something impossible to find? Its a small issue but I want it to be on solid like it should when running.

Post# 855428 , Reply# 4   12/6/2015 at 20:59 (597 days old) by scoots (Chattanooga TN)        
Hi John and welcome to the club

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Somebody will be along to look up the build date from your serial number, but I'd guess you have a late 60s model. You'll notice that half the dial is taken up by a timed soak? This was for the enzyme pre-soak detergents that were popular at the time but the cycle is now pretty much obsolete.

You'll also notice a button for "Permanent Press"? The permanent press fabrics of the time required elaborate water changes in the rinse cycle to cool the fabrics down correctly so that they didn't take wrinkles. Fabrics are now no longer made this way, so this feature is also obsolete and would be a real water-waster.

Hold off on replacing the belts, they may be old but Maytags MUST have Maytag specific belts that are much slacker than you'd expect (the motor deliberately "slips" at some points in the cycle.) They are super-easy to replace, perhaps take a few pictures for expert opinions on condition. One belt runs the agitator and this is the unit that typically needs replacement. The other just runs the pump, and these are rarely in need of a change out.

Maytag gear boxes typically don't have an oil fill plug: The transmission is intended to be a permanently sealed unit and the grease is replaced at the time of a pull out and rebuild.

Nice looking machine. Have fun with it.

Post# 855429 , Reply# 5   12/6/2015 at 21:00 (597 days old) by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor)        

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To get original Maytag belts its either Whirpool parts or e-bay. Grandson of the Maytag dealer I bought it from came and put a new motor pulley and belts in 15 minutes, told me my motor slides are fine and its good for another 30 years.

Post# 855430 , Reply# 6   12/6/2015 at 21:01 (597 days old) by scoots (Chattanooga TN)        
Regarding the Pilot Lamp

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On some lower models, the pilot lamp was a dummy, on the upper end units, they actually worked. The 407 is towards the top, perhaps somebody knows specifically if it should work.

Post# 855446 , Reply# 7   12/6/2015 at 22:18 (597 days old) by 70series ( Connecticut.)        

The pilot light will definitely work. A neighbor who lived across the street from me had this model with the matching dryer. I believe this is an early 70s build.

Post# 855456 , Reply# 8   12/7/2015 at 00:08 (597 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        

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re:belts. They look really worn and stretched esp the pump belt. In fact the pump has been adjusted to its farthest point to take up as much slack as possible and the machine does make some chattering when it goes into wash mode for a few seconds that could be similar to noises refered to as bad belts in a post I read on here. The lamp does flicker which I cant see how its possible seeing as how its a neon bulb like those cheap 120v outlet testers have only it has a resistor on it in the socket. Its a pet peeve and wont make the machine run better but Im the kinda guy if something was made to work a certain way and it doesnt anymore than I replace it. Not sure if Im going to find this part unless its from a junk machine.

Post# 855459 , Reply# 9   12/7/2015 at 00:33 (597 days old) by rp2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        

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If it's just a small neon lamp, you can likely replace only the lamp and not the whole assembly.  I've done this with indicator lamps for old coffee makers and on vintage lighted dial GE clocks.  Snip or un-solder the bad lamp and solder the new one on. 


I'm sure someone here will be able to advise on the specific lamp number you will need, such as an A-2-B or something like that.  It would look something like this:



Post# 855463 , Reply# 10   12/7/2015 at 01:25 (597 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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The pump belt normally is quite loose ... almost alarmingly so.

Correct adjustment is by pinching the pump belt together halfway between the pulleys. There should be 1/4" space when the motor carriage begins to move against the spring tension.  More than 1/4" indicates the pump is adjusted too tight.

Post# 855471 , Reply# 11   12/7/2015 at 01:51 (597 days old) by mrsalvo (New Braunfels Texas)        

It's a beautiful machine and I hope you get 30 years out of it trouble free. Even though I wasn't the biggest fan of Maytags, this model is definitely something I could live with, very much so. Always thought they were they were more of the quiet machines built and just went about there business quietly. Sure were a lot of them in laundrymats that had this model, in years past. Nice machine, very nice.

Post# 855621 , Reply# 12   12/8/2015 at 00:17 (596 days old) by hippiedoll (tucson, arizona u.s.a.)        

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I looked up your serial number & got this information:
Brand: Maytag
Type: Clothes Washer
Country: USA
Model: A407
Serial: 459759UB
According to the serial number this product may have been manufactured January of 1974.

Post# 855624 , Reply# 13   12/8/2015 at 00:53 (596 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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all kinds of neon bulbs on ebay

Post# 855642 , Reply# 14   12/8/2015 at 03:12 (596 days old) by appnut (TX)        

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The pilot light staying on after the load finishes is just to remind you there's wash in the machine that needs to be put in the dryer.  Incidentally, the user manual also said that if you wanted an extra rinse, to simply use the perm press cycle.

Post# 855729 , Reply# 15   12/8/2015 at 18:44 (595 days old) by ken-n-nancy (Bedford, NH)        

FYI, there's a matching dryer (DE407) for your washer for sale in Rhode Island not too far away.

I have no connection with the seller -- I've just seen the ad while waiting for an A806/DE806 pair...

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Post# 855730 , Reply# 16   12/8/2015 at 18:54 (595 days old) by ken-n-nancy (Bedford, NH)        

There's also a DE606 for sale in Manchester, CT.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO ken-n-nancy's LINK on Hartford Craigslist

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Post# 856019 , Reply# 17   12/10/2015 at 14:45 (593 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        

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Many thanks for the replies. The driers look tempting but alas I have the landlords drier to use and space is scarce. I ordered a pair of FSP belts online and will install them in the next day or so. It really needs them as the agitator barely works with a large load and it doesnt spin as fast as it should plus I can hear the belt chirping its slipping so bad. Prob original belts. The neon bulb has a resistor on it, Im wondering why? I thought of getting just a plain bulb but they must have installed that for a reason. Also, my motor has red wheels and not square slides. Whats the best way to clean the muck from the tracks and should I lube the rollers or leave it dry? I was thinking Zoom Spout on the wheel axles. So far I love this thing its really made well. Thanks again.

Post# 856375 , Reply# 18   12/12/2015 at 23:19 (591 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        

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I installed the new belts and even hit the rollers with some Zoom Spout but I still get a belt noise so I think maybe the slides need a good cleaning and greasing. The tub still takes too long to come up to speed and pretty much drops to its knees when the rinse cycle is happening its slipping so bad. Almost comes to a stop. Im deff gonna order new motor springs also as I think these lost some tension. Minor set backs but hopefully it will be working as its supposed to in short order. Any suggestions?

Post# 856381 , Reply# 19   12/13/2015 at 00:05 (591 days old) by LaVidaBoem (South Carolina)        
Tell us More...

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OK a little info needed for clarification...


"Comes to its knees during the Rinse..."


Do you mean the spin rinse after wash?


Until later,

Maytags that tear up the belts fail in 2 areas usually.

If they eat the belts only when spinning, its usually the spin tube sleeve/bearing.

If they eat the belts during all operations, (agitation) its usually the transmission.


Post back, and others and I will try to narrow it down.


Hope this Helps,


Post# 856409 , Reply# 20   12/13/2015 at 09:30 (590 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        

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Yes during the rinse/spin cycle it practically comes to a stop from the clothes being weighted from the water from a long rinse period while spinning but it seems to come up to normal spin speed slower than videos Ive seen of these. The belts I replaced really werent bad but prob stretched as Ive found out they were originals. Ive saved them for spares. I also dont seem to notice a difference in agitator speeds when I switch from normal to gentle etc while its working. Im kinda leaning towards the slides needing cleaning/lubing and new motor springs as a fix but I could be wrong. Im gonna try and figure out how to post a video of it running and making that noise. Many thanks for the help.

Post# 856413 , Reply# 21   12/13/2015 at 09:51 (590 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
Slipping main drive belt on a MT

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Are you sure that the pump belt is VERY loose if it is anything resembling tight the main drive belt will slip too much as the tight pump belt pulls the motor inward slightly and causes the main belt to slip more.  If the motor carriage moves freely you do not need new rollers.


Other than these possible problems you probably have a much serious problem as the last poster stated.

Post# 856418 , Reply# 22   12/13/2015 at 10:40 (590 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        

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Hmm, well Ive tried several times to post a video on the comp and also my phone but it just isnt an option it seems. Is it possible or just pics?
re: pump belt. Yes its quite loose. I saw a video online how to adjust it and followed it precisly. I almost think its too loose as the tub doesnt seem to pump out as fast now. A video would really help me explain it if I was able to upload it. Its weird because when the machine goes into spin it takes right off like its going to spin like hell but looses steam after 30 seconds or so and would eventually come up to speed if the rinse cycle didnt bog it down weight wise with water. This is driving me nuts.

Post# 856420 , Reply# 23   12/13/2015 at 10:45 (590 days old) by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor)        

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One of our AW members posted a video of a Maytag 906 a while back doing a complete cycle and the ins and outs of operation. I am sure it is in the archives and maybe by watching how one properly operates, you may be able to see just what is wrong with yours.

Post# 856421 , Reply# 24   12/13/2015 at 10:54 (590 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        

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I tried uploading the file in a reply but the movie doesnt seem to show up in the folder in my comp and when I tried in my phone it didnt appear in my videos folder. Its in .MOV format should I change it?

Post# 856429 , Reply# 25   12/13/2015 at 11:27 (590 days old) by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor)        

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It was originally posted from You Tube so check it out there. Title is Maytag 906 extravaganza

Post# 856430 , Reply# 26   12/13/2015 at 11:27 (590 days old) by LaVidaBoem (South Carolina)        
Pump out on Maytag

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Only got a few before I feed Pharaoh's Army today; but your clues lead me to believe that the old girl can't get rid of the water fast enough.

And maybe possibly more...

I'll list a few steps that a would tell a man to do...

At wash drain...

Stop the machine, flip the belt off of the tranny, but leave on the pump; take a 5 gallon bucket, time the fill, should fill that thing in almost no time.

Empty the washer this way.

Stop. Replace belt on tranny...turn off cold...spin...Any better?


A pump can go bad or have a restriction, a piece of rust, thingy's,...etc.

Your clue about the drain faster before the adjusted the belt too loose tells me that maybe bearing is going bad in pump/restriction making it hard to turn.


Anyway, others can tell you of their shortcuts to finding out.


If spin as above starts out, and then bogs down after time...dragging brake or spin tube bearing as I stated.


more to come later,


Post# 856436 , Reply# 27   12/13/2015 at 12:42 (590 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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Videos cannot be posted directly here.  They must be placed online via some other storage service and linked.  Most people use YouTube.

Post# 856437 , Reply# 28   12/13/2015 at 12:44 (590 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        

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The pump itself does spin freely. In fact I took the little screw out on the side and squeezed some Zoom Spout in there but Ive turned it by hand and it spins very easy. I did turn the water valve off once to eliminate the rinse cycle and she spun like a banshee once it was able to get up to speed without the added drag of water being added. I did forget to mention that when the machine first goes into the agitate cycle when first started the agitator moves slowly and the tub seems to want to spin instead of staying stationary then once the agitator comes up to speed the tub just turns in small notches. With the front off it does want to agitate and come up to spin quickly. I moved the motor back when it engaged into spin mode to tension the trans belt and I lt go because I was afraid water was going to splash over and go on the floor because the pump wasnt pumping it out as fast as it was trying to spin. If I could load that video I think that would help. Any ideas on that???

Post# 856446 , Reply# 29   12/13/2015 at 13:35 (590 days old) by kenwashesmonday (Haledon, NJ)        

A full tub of water (large) should empty in about 90 seconds.

Post# 856447 , Reply# 30   12/13/2015 at 13:35 (590 days old) by LaVidaBoem (South Carolina)        
A lesson to be learned now...

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I think its important to get something out of the way now.

This is why people are reluctant to help someone who is not familiar with a couple of things>>


1. Follow Directions

2. ..."Oh I forgot that it..."


Kindly put, not to make anyone feel bad...but its so important to a tech, either over the Interweb, or in person, get your shit straight before you go flailing around with problems.

That bit about the slow agitation is critical in this Long-Distance Free Advice.


I'll go out on the limb now, and say its the sludge in the tranny that used to be a lubricant.

And that brake is off, no movement at All of a Maytag is tolerable.


I have to now take a break...its time the throw some garments and run a few hundred gallons of water to wash a weeks worth.

Time, for me, to have that Marlboro in the right hand, a little Mary Jane in the left, and sit back and watch the washers....


Good Luck,

We are still hereto help,




Post Script:

Are you familiar with the normal working of a sure you aren't stuck on low speed only??

That old girl may have just gone loosey-goosey on you...might be time for an overhaul.

This post was last edited 12/13/2015 at 13:50
Post# 856457 , Reply# 31   12/13/2015 at 14:18 (590 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

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It's possible something in the outer tub is blocking the drain, causing it to drain slow.

Post# 856458 , Reply# 32   12/13/2015 at 14:21 (590 days old) by LaVidaBoem (South Carolina)        
Spot On>>Goat Farmer...

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Yes indeed, don't forget as I do, every time on one these old girls...not as common as the inside motor/speed queen iteration, but a sock or washcloth will throw over a Maytag...


Take that tub top off and look>>


Good Luck


Post# 856467 , Reply# 33   12/13/2015 at 15:17 (590 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        
Finally !!

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I wasnt going to let this get the best of me today because Im the type of person that 1- doesnt buy cheap il-designed garbage, and 2- if I own it, its in perfect working order. I went downstairs and ran a large load of water through a full cycle. Pump wasnt really doing much and the drain sound didnt have the authority it should, the machine on the rinse cycle would just barely start to come up to speed when the spin cycle was over and it would have to stop and begin its second fill. I did two empty loads like this and the second was even worse. The tub wouldnt even completly empty at all and the drain sound was barely a trickle. I flipped the machine back and popped the belts off and peeked under and noticed the trans pulley had a film of oil on it from all the years. Not serious but what I call a sweat leak over many years. I was careful to notice the kitchen floor of the house we removed it from all those years because if it left spots on the floor I wasnt going to take it. There were none. So I looked in the pulley sheave and although it looked clean when I ran my fingers through it I did get slippery fingers. I took some LA's Awesome and cleaned all the sheaves and belts off of any oil whatsoever then reasssembled and tried again. A little better but it wasnt pumping the water out like it should. The motor slides were smooth and not binding in any way. My last resort was tipping the machine back again and doing another pump ajustment as it seems insanely loose. I loosened the three screws and slid it to its farthest point. Slightly tightened the one closest to the motor then stuffed the motor back to tighten the trans belt. The pump didnt move at all and the belt still had less than the 1/4" play. Long story short I had to leave the pump at its farthest point to get the adjustment. If I needed any more I wasnt getting it lets just say that. And these are factory FSP belts to boot. Set the machine back on the floor and even levelled it better than it was before because it was 1/2" too far back. Now it works perfect. Im thinking it was a combo of the two but more the pump belt adjustment because it couldnt evacuate the tub fast enough. What an ordeal! But feeling accomplished. I also think the moving tub issue was the slipping trans belt because it doesnt do it now and agitates like it means it along with pumping like Engine 51.

re: workings of a Maytag. Nope. Im a small engine guy that also restores antique powered mowers and old diesel Mercedes. I play with vintage fans, Edisons, Monitor Tops etc but not washers or driers. Thirty years ago when I was a kid I helped the old guy around the corner in his appliance repair biz so went out on calls on these but pretty much forgot it all over the years although its slowly coming back. He was a smart old German and also collected the machines. I remember an Easy copper tub wringer, Locomotive, two tub Westinghouse, L-4-48 Westinghouse, WD something or other Westinghouse, and his mint 1958 Westinghouse W1000 and D1000 set in dark grey. The washer needed an escapement that was discontinued and he found a NOS one a fellow repairman had for $100.00 but was too cheap to buy it. He was a Westinghouse guy for sure and even had metal Westinghouse kitchen cabinets! There still may be some in the basement of his old house.

Anyway many thanks for all the replies and advice I really appreciate the help. Lets hope this is the last of it for a while so I can enjoy it. :)

Post# 856470 , Reply# 34   12/13/2015 at 15:45 (590 days old) by LaVidaBoem (South Carolina)        
Very Very Good...

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You see, I bet all three of us >>Goat>>Combo52 and I just gloss over them leaking trans...

Never saw one that didn't have at least one drop.


Anyway, all of us here probably would have degreased the old girl, and just took for granted it just can't be that!

Nothing wrong with using spray carb cleaner, and  compressed air to dry a Maytag. Even the motorbase/glides.

Then grease what you want...

We all were scratching our heads and other parts,...cause we know its that simple,...a Maytag won't spin till it gets rid of that water...and any drag, is usually all that'left.


We are very happy for you...and you taught everybody not to forget the obvious.


Happy Maytagin'


Post# 856474 , Reply# 35   12/13/2015 at 16:41 (590 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        

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Well I learned a lot from all the advice given and would still be scratching my head had I not already joined here a few weeks prior to finding this machine simply by a chance convo with a friend. I did consider the carb spray at first but the fumes would have had my upstairs neighbor running down in a panic. I get that LA's Awesome at the dollar store and its the best degreaser Ive ever used and if you get any on your hands it doesnt sting. I highly reccomend it. In fact in the next week or so when I get time Im going to remove the front again and wipe clean as much of the bottom and insides of it with some rags after I spray it down. It should clean up nicely. Maybe a new thread with before and after pics. As much as I like this machine Im still saddened of that mint 1962 A101 I had to sell when I moved 10 years ago. It was a cream puff and silent as a whisper when it ran.

Post# 856790 , Reply# 36   12/15/2015 at 20:00 (588 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        
A new symptom.

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Well all was going good the past few loads with the washer and all of a sudden its aquired a new glitch. It seems when its halfway through its first spin cycle before it goes into rinse mode the machine simply shuts off. If I push the timer knob in then back out it goes on it merry way through the rest of the wash cycle. I dont even have to turn the timer just a quick one two of the knob does it. Im thinking timer now?? Is this a good time to say yikes!?

Post# 856867 , Reply# 37   12/16/2015 at 06:50 (587 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        

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Replacement timer needed.

Post# 856909 , Reply# 38   12/16/2015 at 11:37 (587 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Great find!! We bought one new in 1970

Identical to our family washer I washed many loads in ours. replaced in the 2001.
In 1972 I bought the matching dryer for my mom. Her old dryer shocked me every time I touched it. Geeze No one else just me. So with my first pay check we got a new dryer.

Post# 856913 , Reply# 39   12/16/2015 at 12:18 (587 days old) by LaVidaBoem (South Carolina)        

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Hello, as Combo52 states, that is your problem.


Now with that said, yes, you can open them up.

What you will find is that as the timer is approaching a new detent, the points for that position are burned, corroded, or just gone.

You are advancing it just slightly for it to continue to feed the timer circuit, even though you are just stopping/restarting the machine.

Very typical on Whirlpool/Kenmore dryers with age on them.

I have fixed many although it is more time consuming than it is probably worth.


Hope this Helps,


Post# 856943 , Reply# 40   12/16/2015 at 16:12 (587 days old) by sel8207 (naples, florida 34117)        
spring replacement

1975 806 unit here. Had similar problem with it being slow to agitate. Took off one the springs, went to Ace hardware, found a very similar replacement spring. Reinstalled the original spring, and added the new spring also. I installed the third spring in the middle of the plate. Problems with agitation completely ended for $2.50 spent. Miy tub also indexed too, but I understand that is caused by a problem with the brake assembly being shot. (haven't got around to replacing that yet.) Still, it washes pretty good, even with the tub indexing somewhat. Good luck. Les.

Post# 857092 , Reply# 41   12/17/2015 at 12:36 (586 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        

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I found a timer online for $127.00 plus Im getting a motor spring kit also. This should finally take care of this beast but at least I know what I have which is better than todays garbage. Hopefully the timer is a direct fit. Again, I cant thank you guys enough you've all been awesome. I will deff keep you updated on my progress. John.

Post# 857127 , Reply# 42   12/17/2015 at 15:13 (586 days old) by Robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        

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Hmm, ordered a timer from a few sites and my order got cancelled as NLA. Anyone know of a timer source? Thanks.

Post# 857129 , Reply# 43   12/17/2015 at 15:25 (586 days old) by LaVidaBoem (South Carolina)        
Post the part # of the OEM Maytag

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We'll see wht we can do...


Post Script:

2 on ebay, if its Maytag 204889


Post# 857208 , Reply# 44   12/17/2015 at 23:13 (586 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        

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As luck would have it I found a new one for $115.00 ( Cheapest online price I could find) and a motor sping and slide kit for $28.00. Wish I checked here first on my comp when I got home instead of a fast Google phone search at my shop. Oh well. Should be here in about a week. Heres hoping.

Post# 857611 , Reply# 45   12/20/2015 at 20:09 (583 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        

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Hi guys. While doing clothes today I noticed when its spinning there was a knocking noise coming from the tub. I took the agitator off and noticed the upper seal is starting to leak a small amount trans fluid. Im not getting any spotting on the clothes though. How hard is this to change and should I replace the bearing also as is has some play? Why am I getting the feeling Im going to end up over hauling this beast?!?

Post# 857613 , Reply# 46   12/20/2015 at 20:23 (583 days old) by LaVidaBoem (South Carolina)        
How Much?

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How much play, side to side or end play?


How much fluid?


Did you mean that the knocking is coming from the "play" you speak of??,

If so, yes maybe time for a tranny...If anyone has a new one on ebay...they are usually cheap.

I have a few in stock...


The tub removal & seals, and spin tube sleeve are not that hard "here", just depends on how much corrosion is under those seals as you tear down to the  outer tub.

Some, I have had to grind off tub nuts, sleeves on the transmission. etc.

But you know...when you do a few...they just seem ordinary.


Its not uncommon to find a tub anchor bolt working loose...will make a heck of a knock.

(The ones the springs hook onto from bottom to top)


All will have a little fluid, but if its side seal can stretch but so much.

The action of the agitator causes water to be pulled down, and pushed out from under the agitator.

It might not show up on clothes if using hotter washes, plenty of detergent.


Let us know a little more...but I have a reason that you got it for 50 bucks to begin with is becoming apparent.





Post# 857754 , Reply# 47   12/21/2015 at 17:50 (582 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        

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I know, you may be spot on with that assesment of price. Right now Im in a holding pattern until the timer and motor slides and springs come in but I plan on removing the motor and spit shining the slide area clean then greasing and reinstalling the motor with new slides and springs plus the timer as the trans belt is still slipping. The tub indexes which means a tired brake assy I guess. Its also still slowing to a crawl on the rinse cycle when its spinning even if I turn the water valve off so it can spin the rinse water from the load it never comes back up to speed just spins about 1/4 as fast as it should. I just put it in spin with a dry tub and I can hear a "hiss " which is telling me the radial tub bearing is tired and should be replaced which isnt hard if I had the spanner to remove the brake unit which I would also replace. The knocking I think may be the spin tube sleeve which again doesnt look hard but I havent the spanners. Another symptom I have is when its on its first wash cycle and I push the button from "Normal" to "delicate" it stops agitating. "Permanent press" makes no change at all, it just seems to agitate at normal speed. Im hoping someone here in CT will chime in that has the spanners I could borrow for a fee because I would replace all that needs replacing and be good for many years with this thing. As it is I cant trust it to run through a complete cycle like it should.
I did take a pic of the top of the trans with the agitator off but for some insane reason when I try to upload them half the pics on my folder dont even show up to down load through the site. Do I have to change the format? I hope this hasnt gotten too long winded but Im trying to give as much info as possible. Maybe if I can remember my youtube password I will try and download a video. Thanks again. John.

Post# 857755 , Reply# 48   12/21/2015 at 17:56 (582 days old) by LaVidaBoem (South Carolina)        
I hear you...

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Just a note...the spanner wrench is dirt cheap off EPray.

Note too, that an entire trans is only about a bill, and that covers a bunch.


Good Luck,



Post Script: Picture format now?

Use IrView (IrFan View) to quickly do it pic editing...its the bomb.


Post# 857762 , Reply# 49   12/21/2015 at 19:01 (582 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        

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I just hate buying three spanners I will never use again. Should I look for a new counter balanced trans of go with the orbital one? The orbital one looks cheaply made.

Post# 857886 , Reply# 50   12/22/2015 at 15:09 (581 days old) by LaVidaBoem (South Carolina)        
Hey there>>Long stroke for me...

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I am sure those orbit jobs do fine, have some here in the collection.


But I prefer hands down the long stroke.

But I like the long stroke even better with a dual action agitator, even if you can't close the lid!


Good Luck,


Post# 857888 , Reply# 51   12/22/2015 at 15:34 (581 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        

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Well I'll keep my eyes open on Ebay I guess. I may buy a brake assy and radial tub bearing and try to tackle it with what tools I have here. Can the upper trans bearing/seal assy be replaced? I would give that a shot too.

Post# 857891 , Reply# 52   12/22/2015 at 15:41 (581 days old) by LaVidaBoem (South Carolina)        

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The seals can be serviced...just remember if the play you spoke of is too great, ie.,stretching the seal too'll leak anyway.

Must replace bushings/bearings to kill any play.


I got my books today from the fellow member, haven't had time to open yet...I wanted to be able to put some pages up for all, just have to learn how to do that, and have time.


I'll see if later I can send you the ones on the upper part/neck of the tranny.



Post# 858025 , Reply# 53   12/23/2015 at 15:17 (580 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        

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Yeah Im having a very hard time uploading pics. Not sure why theyre there when I go into my files but disappear when I open thr file through the upload link here.

Post# 858063 , Reply# 54   12/23/2015 at 17:55 (580 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        
Wrong timer

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Got the timer today and they goofed. Sent me a #204899 for $115.00 so I called and will ship it back for refund, not to mention it was used in an open bag when they stated new. Used your Ebay link and got the #204889 for half that. I will use the saved cash towards a brake unit and radial bearing?!? Many thanks again.

Post# 858079 , Reply# 55   12/23/2015 at 19:21 (580 days old) by LaVidaBoem (South Carolina)        
Well, Hot 'Dern It...

lavidaboem's profile picture

I can't stand things like that...

I do well on EPray, but I will tell you, it happens to all of us.


I have bought 3 dishwasher racks for my Kenmore Ultrawash with the part # from Sears crossed over, and got 3 different ones over the last so many months...finally bit the bullet and got a top that will work...still using one of the bottoms that I took the rollers off to make work...

So, I know the frustration too.


I got scanner/printer problems...don't know, haven't had time to see what's wrong.

Anyway, I have you about 5 to 6 pages, that I don't know any other way than to copy them on the office one, and mail them too charge, just as the other fellow member did for me.


Email me here, and I'll be glad to send these out, you may not get them until Wednesday or Thursday of next week...


Hope this Helps,


Post# 858170 , Reply# 56   12/24/2015 at 13:11 (579 days old) by Combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
New brake and radial bearing

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A radial bearing is either bad or it's not. If it's bad it will roar when spinning.

The brake assemblies never go bad unless they screech horribly when the machine is stopping.

I would save your money for other parts that you're much more likely to need in the future.

Post# 858356 , Reply# 57   12/25/2015 at 23:00 (578 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        

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Thanks for the advice on those. Im just wondering on the brake assy as the tub is indexing while the wash is agitating. What would cause that? I wonder if its the tub bushing that could be making noise and not the radial bearing? I have a funny feeling if I cant replace the top transmission seal and bushing that its going to need a trans. It left a brown spot on two towels last load. Im really wishing I didnt buy this and waited for a better one but it was from a trusted friend.

Post# 858357 , Reply# 58   12/25/2015 at 23:33 (578 days old) by Combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
Indexing on a Maytag washer

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Can be completely normal and doesn't hurt a thing. If the radial bearing is badit will sound like a freight train When it is spinning with no load in the machine.

Post# 858442 , Reply# 59   12/26/2015 at 14:08 (577 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        
More investigating today

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I removed the agitator today and saw what appeared to be a brown encrusted mess. The oil leak didn't look as bad as before and I wiggled the shaft looking for play and didn't notice any at all. Looks like a snap ring and washer to replace the seal so I'm going to try to source a part number online. I did wire brush the corroded locking ring clean. It will need a good soaking in Kroil before trying to remove it. I did rock the tub side to side and there is a definite knock to it. Gonna need that tub bearing I'm thinking its that bad. I may as well change both bearings, bushing and top seal as well as clean and replace motor slides and springs which those will happen Sun then the correct timer when it arrives. All that other stuff along with spanners I'm going to start acquiring then spend a few hours tearing this thing down. Let's see if these pics load this time.

  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 2         View Full Size

This post was last edited 12/26/2015 at 14:27
Post# 858445 , Reply# 60   12/26/2015 at 14:17 (577 days old) by LaVidaBoem (South Carolina)        
Looks Good, and Normal>>

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Hey again,


For its age, not bad...don't worry too much about that collar/lock ring.

If it doesn't turn after taking the screw out, then use a Hammer and Sharp Chisel.

Breaks right into on about the third lick. Made to do that anyway.


Tranny diagram, part#'s and more, in the mail...


Good Luck,


Post# 858450 , Reply# 61   12/26/2015 at 14:43 (577 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        

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Im going to have to take another peek I didnt notice a locking screw. The pics seemed to load no problem from my tablet. Not sure why they didnt from my comp. When the time comes if I cant remove that ring should I angle the chisel like Im trying to loosen it or straight down from the top to split it? Sun will be to concentrate on the motor area then take some LA's Awesome and wipe the pulleys, belts, and overall general area pained grey in the belly and underneath as clean as possible. This thing will need a good going through for sure and Im going to be sinking more money than I hoped but at least when its done it will be good for many more trouble free years. I still wish I had found a cleaner older unit with lighted panel close by but one will show in time. I cant imagine what they washed in this thing all those years to brown the tub although this was on a farm so who knows.

Post# 858452 , Reply# 62   12/26/2015 at 14:46 (577 days old) by LaVidaBoem (South Carolina)        
At an angle, straight down...

lavidaboem's profile picture use trying to turn it with the chisel...


But be careful, you don't want to hit the porcelain tub, and knock out a chunk.


Good Luck,



Post# 858593 , Reply# 63   12/27/2015 at 10:41 (576 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

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I've had pretty good luck turning them with a chisel and hammer. Also, IIRC, the threads are reverse of what is normal.

Post# 858688 , Reply# 64   12/27/2015 at 22:59 (576 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        
Youtube video

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Just downloaded this video and I hope it comes out. I started it at the last few seconds of the first wash cycle through drain/spin to the rinse cycle where it slows down during rinse then tries to recover once rinse has ended only to have to stop spinning as the second wash starts. You can hear a knocking sound and also a sloshing while its slowing down during the rinse phase. The timer also did its thing while spinning also but I nudged it to keep it running. I removed the motor and cleaned both metal brakets with a wire brush they were pretty rusty. Then I greased the slides and reinstalled it with new springs. The belt was still slipping and agitation was slow even after I cleaned any trace of oil or grease off the pulleys and belts. I even wiped the inside of the machine and bottom. I ended up going with 3 springs on the motor. Hope this helps. Thanks. John.

Post script: Forgot to mention this load had two pairs of jeans, two sweat shirts, 6 tee shirts and 6 pairs of shorts. Not sure if I over did it??

CLICK HERE TO GO TO robbinsandmyers's LINK

Post# 858698 , Reply# 65   12/27/2015 at 23:32 (576 days old) by LaVidaBoem (South Carolina)        
Drain Problem #1

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Hey Man,

Just like in my first impression when this started...


You have a drain problem.


Follow all the steps above from removing tub lid (band type on that model), and look in the outer tub for anything.

Remove Drain Hose @ tub...then at intake to pump.

Same with outlet hoses from pump to siphon-break, all the way to the end of drain hose.


Post another video of it draining into a couple 5 gallon buckets.


If the drive belt is not slipping on the pump, (infrared rpm meter), its the pump.


Although video cam/sounds can be deceiving, its sound like the radial bearing.

I DO NOT think its the spin tube bushing/bearing/sleeve.


Let us know,


Post# 858933 , Reply# 66   12/29/2015 at 10:22 (574 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        
Pumps and timers

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Hmm you've got me thinking on that now. I'll have to remove the top sometime this week and see if somethings floating around in there partially blocking the drain to the pump. The stand pipe is about 4' away from the washer and about 18" higher than the top of the machine. Not sure if that distance and height matters? Doesnt seem to have an issue on the final drain and spin speed but then again it doesnt rinse on that one. One time when it was slowing in the rinse/spin mode I thought the belt was slipping so I pulled back on the motor slightly to put more tension on it. It actually bogged the motor to the point the starting switch was kicking on and off it was loading down that bad so there a deff drag on that tub then when this happens. Even more so when it first goes into spin mode with a full tub of water.

The correct timer came today and I tried to install it but stopped. There was a couple of terminals that didnt have the same numbers as my old timer. Are there a few wires that go to different terminals or dont get used at all? The new timer looks nothing like mine. Mine is a square box where the new timer has a flat profile. I havent sent the incorrect one back yet and looked at both and externally the 204889 and 204899 look the same. Are there online wiring diagrams to show timer replacement? Thanks.

Post# 858948 , Reply# 67   12/29/2015 at 12:23 (574 days old) by LaVidaBoem (South Carolina)        
I don't know on the timer diagrams.

lavidaboem's profile picture

OK great on the water/drain problem.


Your clue in the video is the fighting of the water over the top of the tub...and then on the rinse/spin, it is accumulating water rather than getting rid of it...


It should be able to easily pump out more than the spray/rinse is pumping into the machine.

Yes, I am sure about the motor boggin', suds lock or water lock will stop them in their tracks.


Four Feet?

Hmm...maybe. I am not really sure on a Maytag.

Never had one in that position.


But, that is why I want you to at least empty into a bucket...get the hose down low, and see if it pumps the volume that it should.
One can tell a bunch in the time it takes to do this...And, I never thought, I assumed everyone has 5 gallon buckets around...Maybe not.


The timer, I should be back up with a scanner soon, just hold on...will send you the diagrams out of the book...tell me one more time exactly the timer # you have now.

The stop in the timer advancement is in the  same position as when the water is accumulating in the basket...Those are the points that are worn out...because of the excessive current draw of motor fighting the water buildup during rinse/spin.


We may end up fixing the drain problem...and you might decide to fix the points in your original timer.


And hang in there...we going to fix this old girl yet...



Post# 858973 , Reply# 68   12/29/2015 at 14:52 (574 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
Drain Hose?

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Out of curiosity, do you have the correct drain hose on this machine or a different one?


Post# 858992 , Reply# 69   12/29/2015 at 16:49 (574 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        

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La VidaBoem, I can get a bucket at Home Deopt and try that over the weekend on Sun. Problem is most of the basement is part of the tailor shop where I live. Its in front of the house and goes into the basement where its closed off. My landlord is old school Italian and if he hears me tinkering or playing with water he will rock the boat and be a pain so I work on this in cloak of darkeness when he's closed like after 6PM weeknights or Sun/Mon when the shop is closed. I agree it fighting the water.

Malcom, yes its the original drain hose with the machine, Only thing I did was cut the bend off the end and stick a metal sleeve inside and added another foot plus elbow from the landlords dead Whirljunk. The machine is 4' away from the wall where the standpipe is but the hose has a nice graceful flow to it no kinks. I will try and make a video of the machine and pipe location but its an ordeal loading it unless Im screwing it up as usual. Give me a rusty 1929 Locke lawn mower thats been sitting outside 40 years and I can get it running no problem but comp stuff still stumps me after 16 years LOL. Thanks as usual for the help guys.

This post was last edited 12/29/2015 at 17:05
Post# 860330 , Reply# 70   1/5/2016 at 21:49 (567 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        

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Sorry for the delay. Havent been feeling too well lately plus the holidays. My timer is a 204889. Here is a pic of the machines location to the standpipe. Its about 5' from the wall. I cut the elbow off the original drain hose and spliced the extension you see in the pic. The splice is just out of site at the top of the dryer. Hope this helps. I hope you guys had a great Christmas and New Years. Thanks. John.

Post# 863276 , Reply# 71   1/21/2016 at 11:34 (551 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        
Still need help on this guys

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Just bumping this thread up. Its still doing its thing and its such a hassle now to bbaby sit it when using. I need to replace the timer but the new one doesnt have the same terminals as my old one. Does anyone have a wiring diagram for these? It seems my lifeline has disappeared and I never recieved the diagrams I was told were mailed a month ago and my emails arent getting returned. I tried removing the top cover on the tub to see if a sock was blocking the drain but the inner and outer tub are so close even with a flashlight I couldnt tell. Looks like the inner tub has to come out for that. The machine doesnt seem to spin as fast in the first cycle as it seems to do in its last spin mode. Not sure if this is normal? I also noticed when washing if I press the button from regular to premanent press it stops agitating. Normal to delicate makes no change in agitation speed. Maybe the switch is shot? Thanks for any possible help on this.

Post# 863290 , Reply# 72   1/21/2016 at 12:45 (551 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

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There "should" be a wiring diagram on the front of the outer tub, pull the front panel. As to pushing the PP button, IIRC, it may stop, depending on where the timer is. PP on that model is an agitation, and a soak, repeated.

Post# 863405 , Reply# 73   1/21/2016 at 22:38 (551 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        

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There is but Im wondering if anyone knows if some wires dont get used when replacing the timer? The new timer is flat where the old one is more box like. Both are Kingston though but the new one is short a few terminals the old one has.

Post# 863407 , Reply# 74   1/21/2016 at 22:47 (551 days old) by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor)        

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My Fabric-Matic does the intermittent agitate soak wash only on delicate. PP does a partial drain with cold refill after wash but all at full speed.

Post# 863548 , Reply# 75   1/22/2016 at 18:21 (550 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture

There should be NO wires hanging out in space. Some of the timer terminals may not wired, but all the wires should be used.

Post# 863811 , Reply# 76   1/24/2016 at 11:25 (548 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        

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Thanks. Will double check the timers again. I had started swapping over the new timer one wire at a time then ran into a wire off the old timer that I couldnt find a terminal for on the new timer so put it back together and called it a day. Supposedly this is the correct timer for an A407.

Post# 863837 , Reply# 77   1/24/2016 at 14:15 (548 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

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IIRC, the wires on that Maytag will have a number on them, that correspond with a timer terminal number.

Post# 865496 , Reply# 78   2/4/2016 at 12:40 (537 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        
Ah yes, more updates

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Ive not gotten around to the timer swap yet as Ive been busy with this new oil leak staining my clothes. I just purchased off Ebay hopefully all the parts I need to fix the leak and also replace the tub bushing assy ( which I think is causing the knocking sound) and seal kit plus the spanner wrench to do it all. Ive also noticed the water level switch may be going or coming out of adjustment as the large setting only fills up to the bottom of the second hole from the top on the agitator. When I first got it it was the bottom of the top hole which I think was still too low. Here is a link to the auction. I hope this will fit my A407 as I just assumed lol. While I have it all apart Im going to see if I can replace the oil in the trans somehow. By the time Im done this whole machine will be reworked! Ive also figured out my first spin cycle issue of the tub slowwing to a crawl. Firstly it doesnt come up to speed as fast as it should, Im thinking the tub bushing is dry and worn and binding somehow although its final spin is just fine. The other thing is once all the water is spun out of the tub and its trying to come up to speed, all the rinse water never gets pumped out of the tub. Ive proved this when the rinse is just about to shut off and the tub has almost stopped turning its going so slow to the point I reached in and stopped it with the machine running. There is all the rinse water in the bottom of the spin tub dragging it down. Not sure why this is happening. Whether it be the stand pipe is too far/high that a small amount of water is unable to be pumped out of the tub or there is in fact a piece of laundry in the outer tub blocking the drain hole. I removed the top cover and tried looking between the spin and outer tubs but they are too close and I couldnt see anything with a flashlight. I'll know for sure when its torn down. Does this kit look right for my machine? Thanks.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO robbinsandmyers's LINK on eBay

Post# 866045 , Reply# 79   2/7/2016 at 21:57 (534 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Hamden CT)        

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I had some free time today and finally swapped out the timer. The new timer wasnt compatible at all. I unplugged one wire at a time so I wouldnt mix them up. There ended up being two unused terminals on the new timer. Once reassembled it seemed most settings on the dial were agitate once the tub was filled with only one small area of the dial for spin and it would only spin a few minutes. So I took the two end covers off the old timer and found two pairs of contacts that looked burnt and flat. I cleaned them up a bit and also noticed the top contact on them should have been bent at 90 deg but was bent outward making a loose connection so I bent them downward so they were level. Reassembled it and it seems to work OK now timer wise. Once the tub bushing and seal come in Im swapping those out to see if that knock is gone. So now I have a new in the box Maytag #204889 timer for $55.00 if anyone needs one.

Post# 866197 , Reply# 80   2/8/2016 at 17:05 (533 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

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It sounds like you're getting a handle on the situation, congratulations!

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