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Thread Number: 6310
Maytag wringer Question
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Post# 127967   5/11/2006 at 07:02 (3,142 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

Could anyone tell me if and how the wringer comes off a round Maytag from the 70's? It is one of the last wringers made. I need to transport it on the bed of a truck safely.
Bobby in Boston





Post# 127969 , Reply# 1   5/11/2006 at 07:08 (3,142 days old) by mayken4now (Panama City, Florida)        

mayken4now's profile picture
grab the shaft and tug straight upward, it should come off. If not, that means it is stuck and then a tub full of hot water may loosen it after sitting for about an hour.

Steve


Post# 127972 , Reply# 2   5/11/2006 at 07:33 (3,142 days old) by geoffdelp (Foley, Minnesota)        

Bobby ... turn the handle to the "swing" position first. You can then swing the wringer away from the washer and lift it straight off the wringer post shaft.

I think we're supposed to post wringer questions in the Super Forum. :-)



Post# 127986 , Reply# 3   5/11/2006 at 08:26 (3,142 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

Steve, are you talking about the agitator? I need to take the wringer off.

Geoffdelp, When you say "swing" position, does this mean away from the tub? As if you were putting clothes in the tub?

Sorry if I put this in the wrong forum. I'll give myself a whack with the cord when I get the darn thing. You guys are the best!
Bobby in Boston


Post# 127989 , Reply# 4   5/11/2006 at 08:34 (3,142 days old) by coldspot66 (Plymouth, Mass)        

The lever that controls the starting and stopping of the wringer....move that lever so it faces opposite the wringer head....then you can move the wringer outward so it is not over the tub...then just lift the wringer head straight up off the body of the machine. Be careful....it's HEAVY!!!!
How are you....met you at Rich and Chuck's a few months ago.

John


Post# 127995 , Reply# 5   5/11/2006 at 08:44 (3,142 days old) by geoffdelp (Foley, Minnesota)        

Bobby ... that's right; move the wringer head away from the tub and lift it straight up. John is right; it is heavy and I've almost dropped one before ... that would not be good! When you put it back on, make sure the handle is in the "swing" position again or you won't be able to get it to sit properly on the wringer post. You might have to move it around to get it to drop fully back in place.

Before you put it back on, put a thin coating of lubrication on it; like motor oil or 3-in-1 household oil. It will make it easier to swing and remove when you want. Some people, in the past, used cooking oil or shortening; that turns rancid after a while ... don't use it. Try not to use Vaseline on it; it turns gummy after a while. 3-in-1 is a lot thinner than motor oil but it works OK.

But ... do put a thin coating of Vaseline on the agitator shaft once a month. :-)

Geoff


Post# 128000 , Reply# 6   5/11/2006 at 09:01 (3,142 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

Geoff and John,
Thank you both so much. I will let you know how I make out. You are awesome. John, another wash-in is in the works. Hopefully we can meet up again soon. I'll try to post pics when I get the wringer.
Bobby in Boston


Post# 128009 , Reply# 7   5/11/2006 at 09:52 (3,142 days old) by geoffdelp (Foley, Minnesota)        

Bobby ... word of advice ... remember not to lay it on its side or turn it upside down. If you have to lay it down, lay it on its front ... where the decal and agitator control are. If you don't, you will lose a significant amount of transmission oil. It will be best to have it in an upright position.

Post# 128018 , Reply# 8   5/11/2006 at 10:43 (3,142 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

Geoff,
I figured as much. I will keep it upright at all times. I figured out how to secure it with self tightening belts (thanks to Chuck in Southboro, Mass) and heavy moving blankets. It appears to be in mint condition, one of the last made.
Bobby in Boston


Post# 128024 , Reply# 9   5/11/2006 at 10:56 (3,142 days old) by geoffdelp (Foley, Minnesota)        

Bobby ... then it will look like mine (see link)!! Mine was made in October 1983; Maytag stopped producing these in November 1983!

A bit of Americana at its finest!! :-)


CLICK HERE TO GO TO geoffdelp's LINK


Post# 128026 , Reply# 10   5/11/2006 at 11:02 (3,142 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

Goeff,
Looks like we have twins!! Remember Maytag's last ditch effort to sell wringers in the Middle East? It flopped, and the wringers were discontinued. I have that newspaper article somewhere back home in NY. I thought it was earlier than '83, but my memory is like..... something!
Bobby in Boston


Post# 128031 , Reply# 11   5/11/2006 at 11:18 (3,142 days old) by geoffdelp (Foley, Minnesota)        

Bobby ... go to Super and look at thread 6317.

Geoff


Post# 128034 , Reply# 12   5/11/2006 at 11:29 (3,142 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

Done, Geoff. Thanx
Bobby in Boston


Post# 128221 , Reply# 13   5/12/2006 at 08:29 (3,141 days old) by abcomatic (Bradford, Illinois)        
Love the Maytag wringer

Hi Geoff, I have the same Commander Maytag and use it all of the time. Mine was made in 1973. Gary

Post# 128289 , Reply# 14   5/12/2006 at 13:14 (3,141 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

Can someone tell what year it was manufactured with the serial #? When did Maytag start using the blue poly agitators and buttons on the wringers? By the way, I'm picking it up on Sunday.
Bobby in Boston


Post# 128350 , Reply# 15   5/12/2006 at 19:34 (3,140 days old) by frontaloadotmy (the cool gay realm)        
B DR

the first letter following the ser # designates year,
second letter month of production according to the list
I have.


Post# 128516 , Reply# 16   5/13/2006 at 12:02 (3,140 days old) by geoffdelp (Foley, Minnesota)        

Bobby ... January 1966 was when Maytag switched from the red accents and black agitator to turquoise accents and agitator. They also eliminated the chrome letters on the Model E around the same time and when back to the "Maytag" decal for all wringer machines.

Geoff


Post# 128859 , Reply# 17   5/15/2006 at 07:14 (3,138 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

Hi All,
The Maytag was picked up this Sunday in a torrential rainstorm. It's in my kitchen, ready to be prettied up. It's in great shape, just a tiny bit of rust near the legs. Once I figure out what to do with it, I'll post pics. Seriously, I wouldn't have the foggiest idea how to fire this thing up.
Bobby in Boston


Post# 128866 , Reply# 18   5/15/2006 at 08:22 (3,138 days old) by abcomatic (Bradford, Illinois)        
sounds like fun Bobbby

Make sure the adgitator it securely in place. (center it and push down until you feel and hear a sort of pop). Make sure the hose is in the upright position, you don't want water all over the place. Fill with water(Water and clothes in the load limit level would be to just below the line or point on the stem of the adgitator). Plug in and pull the center knob(the one in front and below the Maytag logo). Pull it out sharply, don't just pull it out gradually or you could grind the gears.
The wringer is easy too: if it isnt already set, take the bar on the top of the wringer and turn it clockwise until it clicks and the wringer is good to go. Have fun. We want to know how you do. Gary


Post# 128896 , Reply# 19   5/15/2006 at 11:31 (3,138 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

Thanks Gary,
but the wringer is out of whack. The release bars don't seem to release. The center knob seems a little resistant to pull, plus, there is a crack in the knob. Can anyone tell me what the tubing that comes out of the bottom is for? And how do you get this baby to drain? (the Maytag king reduced to a toad by a wringer...geeez)
Bobby in Boston


Post# 128898 , Reply# 20   5/15/2006 at 11:38 (3,138 days old) by geoffdelp (Foley, Minnesota)        

Bobby ... you're not reduced to a toad!!

You push in on the release bars to get them to release. You turn the reset on top of the wringer one quarter turn "clockwise" to reset. If the rollers are locked up (about an inch or so space between them) you then press on the release bars and turn one quarter turn "counter-clockwise" to drop them down and then one quarter turn clockwise to reset.

The center knob you are referring to is the agitator start knob? You don't have to pull with all of your might, but you should pull it "quickly" to start the agitator.

Is your machine a pump model? You can tell by the Off/On lever on the right side of the machine by the drain hose. If there is no lever, then you have a non-pump model and you simply lay the hose down to drain the water.

Does that help?

Geoff


Post# 128900 , Reply# 21   5/15/2006 at 11:41 (3,138 days old) by geoffdelp (Foley, Minnesota)        

P.S. The machine needs to be plugged in to be able to pull out on the agitator knob. There is a cam gear in the transmission that turns back and forth when the motor is running and it rises to engage the agitator when you pull out on the knob.



Post# 128917 , Reply# 22   5/15/2006 at 13:46 (3,138 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

Hi Geoff,
It must be a pump model, because it has the on/off lever next to the hose. It also has a curved top (top of the hose). The release bars and reset don't seem to do a thing, but I can lift the top section of the wringer off, at least one side, the other side has a catch pin. ????? Still hopping around green and toadlike.
Bobby in Boston


Post# 128920 , Reply# 23   5/15/2006 at 14:09 (3,138 days old) by geoffdelp (Foley, Minnesota)        

Hi Bobby ... still don't believe you are a toad! :-)

The curved top of the hose is designed to go over the wash tub for draining. When ready, you put the curved top over the tub and turn the pump lever to "On". The water then comes out ... usually rather fast.

You're right about the wringer; there should be a catch pin on one side. Do the wringer rollers sit together well? When you try to turn the pressure lever on top clockwise, what happens? Do you hear a little "click"; if so, then you did it.

Have you tried to run something wet through the wringer to see if it works? You turn the control lever on the left hand side to start the rollers. Push the lever forward to the first click to get the rolls to turn away from you ... the most common position.

Is this an N2LPS? If so, to get the rollers to turn, you have to step on the foot pedal. If not, they should just start to turn.

Have you plugged it in yet to test everything? You don't need to have water in it to do that.

Geoff


Post# 128938 , Reply# 24   5/15/2006 at 18:12 (3,137 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

Geoff,
foot pedal?
Is that what the small gray tubing is? Looks like the foot pedal is missing.
Bobby in Boston


Post# 128964 , Reply# 25   5/15/2006 at 19:11 (3,137 days old) by polkanut (Wausau, WI )        

It sounds as though your pedal may have have rotted away, or been removed some other way. The wringers run on air pressure with that stupid contraption. My mother-in-law had one of these Maytag's. When I got it the hose was rotten from sitting in a very damp basement. I was able to order a new one, but that was in 2001. I would think that they should still be available. Keep us posted.

Post# 129012 , Reply# 26   5/15/2006 at 23:19 (3,137 days old) by abcomatic (Bradford, Illinois)        
foot pedal- what a pain

Bobby, Here is what I did with mine. I took the grey tubing off and where it joined the machine, I put a screw in there that was the right diameter. No more problems with that ridiculous pedal. Gary

Post# 129041 , Reply# 27   5/16/2006 at 06:48 (3,137 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

Hi All,
tubing is in new condition. I think the pedal was simply pulled off. Is it kosher to just get rid of the tubing and plug the hole? I hate altering the oldies. The model # is N2LPS. Serial # is 620877. Still haven't fired it up yet. Too chicken.
Bobby in Boston


Post# 129056 , Reply# 28   5/16/2006 at 08:00 (3,137 days old) by geoffdelp (Foley, Minnesota)        

Bobby ... chicken, schmiken!! Fire it up; that's the only way you're gonna know how it operates!

No ... it's not "Kosher" to just remove the hose. The air from pressing on the foot pedal engaged a clutch within the wringer post causing the rollers to turn. The only way to get around it is to remove the entire actuator assembly.

Gary is right ... look underneath and see where it connects to the wringer post. Just unscrew the white actuator. Take it down to the local hardware store and get a (long) bolt that is of the same diameter (I think it's 1/2 inch). Screw it into the hole where you removed the actuator assembly and then turn on the machine and start the wringer. If the wringer still isn't turning, turn off the machine and screw the bolt in a little more. Keep doing this until you get the wringer to operate.

I took the foot pedals off my machines, too. Actually, I sort of liked them when wringing a large article (like a blanket or rug) because you could stop the rollers and readjust the article of clothing. The hassle was moving the foot pedal around the tubs when rinsing.

The foot pedal was Maytag's answer to additional safety of the wringer. It provided "remote" control of the wringer. I don't think you can purchase these any more.

Did you get the manual I sent you yet? I mailed it last Friday. That might "help" you be a little more confident. Relax ... you're gonna enjoy washing with your little Maytag!!

Any pictures yet?

Geoff


Post# 129069 , Reply# 29   5/16/2006 at 08:20 (3,137 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)        
Is it kosher to just get rid of the tubing and plug the hole

toggleswitch's profile picture
If you got rid of the tubing wouldn't you want to open the hole?

Post# 129089 , Reply# 30   5/16/2006 at 09:08 (3,137 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        
Toggles,

Remind me to run your dirty mind thru the Maytag when I see you.... And your you-know-what thru the wringer. *SMACK* :-)
Bobby in Boston


Post# 129115 , Reply# 31   5/16/2006 at 10:13 (3,137 days old) by geoffdelp (Foley, Minnesota)        
Serial Number

Bobby ... don't forget the 2 letters that go with the serial number for proper dating. I didn't bring the key codes with me today, but can remember it tomorrow. We can then get you a month and year your machine was made. Since it is an N2LPS, it would have been made after 1968 when the foot pedal was introduced.

I didn't understand the Toggles comment and apparently, that must be for the best! :-)


Post# 129119 , Reply# 32   5/16/2006 at 10:24 (3,137 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

Geoff,
the serial # is only numbers, there are no letters. Does this make sense? Looking at the cord and tubing, this machine is 1970's, I guess.
Bobby in Boston


Post# 129141 , Reply# 33   5/16/2006 at 11:09 (3,137 days old) by frontaloadotmy (the cool gay realm)        
The Maytag Date Code

list that I have lists wringers from 1949 - 1965
as having a five digit ser # with 2 letter suffix.
Apparently all automatics of the same vintage have a 6
digit # double letter suffixed.

The next section of the list covering dates 1966-2013
doesn't differentiate #ing relative to Automatic or Wringer.
It simply states that all serial #'s are 6 digits double
letter suffixed, I assumed (God forbid!) that the wringers would be #ed the same way. misnaken once again!


Post# 129154 , Reply# 34   5/16/2006 at 12:57 (3,137 days old) by geoffdelp (Foley, Minnesota)        

Bobby ... do you have the silver decal on the back? Look closely at the serial number and just to the right should be two letters. The first letter tells us what year it was made in and the 2nd letter tells us what month it was made in. The "number" of the serial number is more like a series ... Model N's had a certain series of numbers as did Model E's, Model J's, etc.

So ... to date the machine we will need the letters.

Darrel ... your date codes sound great! Maytag did number the automatics different than the wringers.

Geoff


Post# 129163 , Reply# 35   5/16/2006 at 13:45 (3,137 days old) by shabby ()        

Hey, guys. This discussion just told me everything I was looking to find out. Thanx for asking all of the right questions, Bobby!

I just got a 1964 (I think) E2LP Maytag. It's a beauty. Works great - real quiet. There was something clogging the drain hose but we cleaned that out and now the water shoots out!

We didn't know why the wringers wouldn't work. I was hoping it had something to do with that tube and the foot pedal. The pedal disintegrated in my hand when I squuezed it.

So tomorrow I am off to the hardware store to locate the proper bolt. I sure hope the wringer works after that.

Here is a picture.


Post# 129164 , Reply# 36   5/16/2006 at 14:16 (3,137 days old) by geoffdelp (Foley, Minnesota)        

Well ... Shabby ... isn't that a beauty!!! I bet your wringer will work when you remove the actuator and start using a bolt. You don't have to tighten the bolt all the way in; in fact, don't go too far. If you look at the end of the actuator, there was a little plastic piece that would come out and disengage the safety clutch within the wringer post. It doesn't come out very far so the bolt doesn't need to go in very far. I just keep tightening it (with the motor off, of course ... safety first!) until it starts the rollers.

Good work on the drain hose!!

Your machine has to be made after 1966 ... because ... the turquoise accents were first used January 1996 and the safety pedal wasn't added until sometime in 1968 or 1969.

Good luck; that's a great looking machine!


Post# 129165 , Reply# 37   5/16/2006 at 14:17 (3,137 days old) by geoffdelp (Foley, Minnesota)        

Ooops ... I meant January 1966!

Post# 129174 , Reply# 38   5/16/2006 at 15:01 (3,137 days old) by oldwasherguy (ladson sc)        

your right geoff,I think this is one of the last made in the early 80s.

Post# 129186 , Reply# 39   5/16/2006 at 17:11 (3,137 days old) by shabby ()        

Really? I didn't check the serial numbers like you guys said to do. I was going by a notation in the Owner's Manual. Someone wrote March 13, 1964 $129.

I will have to check the numbers. I just got it home today and spent the whole morning cleaning it up. My husband thinks I'm nuts - but I love it!

I am so glad I found this board. Great info here.


Post# 129191 , Reply# 40   5/16/2006 at 17:42 (3,137 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

Shabby, what a gorgeous machine. I love the square tub w/ ss interior. Geoff, the plate on the back is just a gray and black sticker. I'll look again tonight, at that white piece of art in my living room!
Bobby in Boston


Post# 129213 , Reply# 41   5/16/2006 at 20:34 (3,136 days old) by fixerman ()        

I believe that would be square tub aluminum, not stainless steel.

Post# 129226 , Reply# 42   5/16/2006 at 21:14 (3,136 days old) by geoffdelp (Foley, Minnesota)        
Super Thread 6317

Hi gang ... this is getting fun!! It would be great to figure out the manufacturing dates of both Bobby and Shabby's machines.

I'll go resurrect Thread 6317 in the Super Forum. Super Forum is where wringers should go. I don't want anyone to get upset.

I'll bring my book to work tomorrow if you guys post your serial numbers, I'll help with the dating.

Geoff


Post# 129229 , Reply# 43   5/16/2006 at 21:26 (3,136 days old) by shabby ()        

Thanx, Geoff! I'll post the numbers in the morning.

I was going to sell this baby on Ebay but now I am thinking I'll keep it. Hubby is already finding places we can put it.

Nite.


Post# 129269 , Reply# 44   5/17/2006 at 06:52 (3,136 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

I stand corrected, Fixerman. Aluminum is correct. It shines so nicely I assumed SS.
Bobby in Boston


Post# 129293 , Reply# 45   5/17/2006 at 08:18 (3,136 days old) by abcomatic (Bradford, Illinois)        
ill check mine too

HI guys, Great Geoff, I will check my serial numbers too to see when my Master was built. Same turquoise colors. I think it would be a riot to have a wringer wash in? Can't wait for school to be out so I can wash in the Maytag or ABC and hang the clothes out on the line. Thank, Gary

Post# 129297 , Reply# 46   5/17/2006 at 08:31 (3,136 days old) by shabby ()        

OK. The serial number is #287443.

The year is............?????????????


Post# 129327 , Reply# 47   5/17/2006 at 09:57 (3,136 days old) by geoffdelp (Foley, Minnesota)        

Hi Shabby ... move over to the Super thread #6317.

Post# 129421 , Reply# 48   5/17/2006 at 17:28 (3,136 days old) by mickeyd (Hamburg NY)        
Mama Mia, Mama Mia, Mama Mia, Let me go---Beelzebub !!

mickeyd's profile picture
Shabby, that thing is gorgeous. Makes me want resurrect Freddie Mercury to sing Bohemian Rhapsody. No wonder why Consumer Reports christened it the Cadillac of washers. Five years ago, when the "Kolopinski Brothers Appliances" sold me my commander, Mr. K . told me that Maytag will make you a brand new Wringer Washer for 650 Dollars. Wonder if that's still possible.

A WRINGER WASH-IN would be fabulous.


Post# 129551 , Reply# 49   5/18/2006 at 06:42 (3,135 days old) by bobbyderegis (Boston)        

Hi all, no, there are no letters following the serial #. Numbers only. It does say 745G in small script above the UL listing logo.
Bobby in Boston





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