Thread Number: 63306  /  Tag: Vintage Dryers
1959 Whirlpool dryer thermostats
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Post# 858978   12/29/2015 at 15:34 (488 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        

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My dryer is 165 degree high temp, 135 low temp, and I'm thinking of switching the low over to 120. There's 3 wires on each thermostat, but all they say is THERMODISC, 165, 111-13, 24006, I can't find any near replacemnet on Ebay, it's all 2 or 4 wire designs? Of 6 dryers, so far I only like one's low temp, so I want to swap this one out while it's apart for maintenance

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Post# 859250 , Reply# 1   12/31/2015 at 07:30 (486 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        

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anyone have info?

Post# 859391 , Reply# 2   1/1/2016 at 06:20 (485 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        

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Mark do you have the schematic for the dryer.

Post# 859400 , Reply# 3   1/1/2016 at 07:25 (485 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        

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This may work but to really know you need the schematic.


Post# 859401 , Reply# 4   1/1/2016 at 07:39 (485 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        

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Post# 859407 , Reply# 5   1/1/2016 at 09:04 (485 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        

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THANK YOU, Supco LD120 is exactly what I need, Ebay $5.95. Here's the schematic, see line 8 for the 135 thermo. Now I'm gonna do some good staring and thinking before the new thermostat arrives. And I will take a good closeup pic of the installed, wired, existing thermo before I try anything.


Post# 859413 , Reply# 6   1/1/2016 at 09:20 (485 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
and more

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here's the contact info on Therm-O-Disc 60t13, bottom 2 lines of attachment.
Weird thing, I have been in electronic sales for ages, I used to rep them in the 90's!
Well, I can't seem to attach a PDF! But I have it, and it's a standard spec sheet, detailing functioning of contacts 1,2,3

Post# 859415 , Reply# 7   1/1/2016 at 09:34 (485 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        

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Post# 859426 , Reply# 8   1/1/2016 at 10:40 (485 days old) by mopar65 (Almont MI)        

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your welcome. I hope it will work the way you want it to. :)

Post# 859470 , Reply# 9   1/1/2016 at 14:56 (485 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        

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the cycling thermostats are mounted next to each other on the edge of the blower housing, 135 and 165 degrees. The high limit safety thermostat, same exact design, is located at the top of the air intake, just behind the drum bulkhead, and it's 145 degrees. What??

Post# 859477 , Reply# 10   1/1/2016 at 16:03 (485 days old) by eronie (Flushing Michigan)        

The high limit safety thermostat should stay cool, unless the vent or lint trap is plugged. Then the heat backs up in the heater box thus tripping the safety.

Post# 859487 , Reply# 11   1/1/2016 at 17:24 (485 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        

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I just assumed the high limit would be 200 or something. You are correct, by finger feel the metal around the high limit is warm to the touch, the metal housing around the cycling thermo's is hot to the touch.

And by reading the schematic, it appears there is no cool down on the automatic cycles, only on the timed Wash n Wear one.

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Post# 859608 , Reply# 12   1/2/2016 at 10:23 (484 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        

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Thank you Robert for all your work here, and for the ephemera sister website.

And it turns out reading the repair manuals helps!

The dryer cycles fine on high and low temp, but the initial startup worried me, sometimes 3 or 4 minutes until the gas came on. In reading the late 50's dryer repair manaul from this site, it turns out there's a warp switch that must heat up before the gas pilot and main burner ignites, allow 3.25 to 5 minutes! It's a White Rogers gas valve assembly, works as it should!

I can see why manufacturers turned to quicker gas igniting systems, but this one works and I am amazed after seeing the basement it sat in since 1959. I think I will also learn to leave the dryer running until the cycle ends, no opening to take out what's already dry, leave the rest for 10 more minutes. That would add 33.25 to 5 mminutes each time I opened the door!

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Post# 860633 , Reply# 13   1/7/2016 at 21:09 (478 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
New belt and thermostat

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The belt, and dissecting the dryer and lubing all spindles, lubing the motor and pulleys, etc, de-linting all over, quieted it down to a normal level as opposed to first time I fired the old girl up.

The swap from 135 low temp thermo to 120 degrees seems very nice, I barely trust other machines for a truly low temp, this one now has it perfectly. The only other one I trust is a MOL 1960 Kenmore 2 temp I have, electric.

It's an average size drum for it's day, not huge at all, but what I call a heavy load (jeans, towels) seems to get done on the medium setting on high temp. Who but one of us would lay on the floor with an iPhone stopwatch to see how long the flame cycles? So the next load will go in between med/light and I'll see.

Weird thing I thought was wrong: Even on the air setting, the pilot lights. But a good read of the schematic shows that the AIR/HEAT switch only controls the main gas valve, not the circuits that light the glow coil and ignite the pilot. Strange, but as designed.

Tightening the screws from the inner door to the outer quieted it quite a bit too. Now the only aggravating noise is the actual timer dial itself!!!! Not at all tight on the spindle, it vibrates non-stop. I'm thinking a small dollop of white lithium grease on the spindle? I certainly can't think I'll find a replacement matching knob, just a small effort at the last bit of noise is all I need.

So, no cool-down on Regular or low temp, only on Wash-N-Wear, no bells or anything when it's done, but very reliable gas drying and a lighted console!

I'm a cheap date, I just go for my newest acquisition like it's the best ever seen!

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Post# 860673 , Reply# 14   1/8/2016 at 07:29 (478 days old) by Combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
Warp switch operation

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Hi Mark, on these old white Rogers glow coil ignition systems they would tend to get slower with age. The pilot burner and the Mercury pilot switch both get a little sluggish. When the systems were working perfectly they would light in less than a minute.

The warp switch is a thermal device which times out the ignition sequence it will shut the whole thing down in 4 or 5 minutes it has nothing to do with the ignition system but is really intended as a safety to shut the whole thing down if it doesn't achieve pilot ignition and switch off the glow coil within that time period.

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