Thread Number: 63594  /  Tag: Vintage Dishwashers
KDS-19 Akron OHIO
[Down to Last]'s exclusive eBay Watch:
scroll >>> for more items
Post# 861686   1/13/2016 at 19:13 (949 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        

akronman's profile picture
Energy Saver IV Superba. In my garage, new homeowners re-did an 80's kitchen entirely before moving in, don't know a thing about it, never used it. And it already sat in their unheated garage a a week in horrible cold, and it'll be a few more weeks until I get it inside. Free is nice. I have an Architect series KUDS-23 currently, no chrome at all nor classic KA look, I'll likely paint this white and swap it into the spot. My Chambers Range and 56 Hotpoint fridge and sink and faucet are white with chrome, this'll be great! (once I check it out)

  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 3         View Full Size

Post# 861748 , Reply# 1   1/14/2016 at 03:36 (949 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        
Shivering Cold KDS-19

toploader55's profile picture
Great Cleaner.

Best No Heat Drying will be when you use Soak and Scrub. Lots of water heating on S+S.
Heats the first Wash and Last Rinse to 150 on Normal, Heavy and Light Wash. S+S gets 4 water heats which gives the Chamber plenty of residual heat for the No Heat Dry.

More than likely the Fill Valve will be split and/or cracked. Possibly the Drain Valve too.

I would let it defrost for a couple of days then inspect the valves.

I had this happen to me when I went to pick up a KDS-18 here in Mass. during freezing weather. I specifically asked not to leave the machine outside. Well, the woman's genius son couldn't have been bothered waiting until the morning and put it outside that night.

The sump was fine, but the Fill Valve was shattered. I'm sure I have an extra valve if you need it. They're good machines. I may have more parts as well. Good Luck.

This post was last edited 01/14/2016 at 14:24
Post# 878572 , Reply# 2   4/26/2016 at 00:26 (846 days old) by StandingPilot (Cleveland)        

I just picked up a KDS 18 that was left in a frozen house, I know I need a front valve....Woman's husband died and she left to live with her daughter, she shut off all the power and all the pipes exploded, what a mess.

Post# 897219 , Reply# 3   9/5/2016 at 08:02 (714 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
This thread

akronman's profile picture
is 235 days old, but I finally brought the KDS-19 into the house!

IT was missing a door spring, I ordered one from Ebay but also stole one from the KDS23 I pulled out for this KA replacement.

2 issues so far, the seller told me last winter that she had been told when she bought the house that this dishwasher needed a water inlet valve. She's right, one of the solenoids is dead. I have a new one on order, $35, but disassembled this anyhows to see what it's like. IT turns out the metal housing is formed over the solenoids after they are put in place, so I really can't redo this myself anyways. I tested the 2 coils in the basement, one energizes perfectly, the other does nothing.

Why the double solenoids?

I poured in 3.5 Pyrex teapots of water to bypass the bad valve, it fired right up after it heated the water, seems to pump fine and sprays galore!

Pic#3 is the water inlet airgap, seems like it's leaked since Feb 1, 1980(the electric box had the installation date written on it).
Should I replace, clean up, ????? I want to do everything I can think of or find before finishing the installation. Then I will repaint it white to match the 1956 Hotpoint refridge and the 1942 Chambers range!

And yes, before any water at all, I took out the filter and cleaned it, the dishwasher removal folks 6 months ago threw the kickplate screws in there, everything. So I cleaned before any running, all seems well.

Too many buttons, too many cycles. Once I have the front door off and read the schematic, I bet I'll stick with NORMAL and the occasional POTS/PAns/Scrub/Soak, nothing else.

  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 3         View Full Size
Post# 897377 , Reply# 4   9/6/2016 at 02:19 (713 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        

toploader55's profile picture
You will get the best drying results through the Soak and Scrub as this is a No Heat Dry machine. I had one of these brand new in 1981.

The Soak and Scrub I believe has 3 water heating on the first wash, one on the next and one before the last rinse. I'm pretty sure the heating is to 150 degrees. It is Static heating so the machine will not be running during the water heating.

Great Cleaner but weak on drying every cycle except Soak and Scrub. You will have No Complaints over all.

Post# 897417 , Reply# 5   9/6/2016 at 08:28 (713 days old) by peteski50 (New York)        

peteski50's profile picture
My family had the kds19 also, as long as you use jet dry, the drying will be fine!

Post# 897428 , Reply# 6   9/6/2016 at 10:16 (713 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
Kitchenaid KDS-19 Drying Performance

combo52's profile picture

This was a great DW overall and actually dries better than the KDS-18, 20, 21 when these machines are used on Energy-Saver dry.


I used my KDSS-20 for ten years and the drying performance was miserable when used on air-dry, at least with the KDS-19 with its more powerful blower it will actually dry pretty well without the 800 watt dry heater the other machines have.


To get the best drying performance from the KDS-19 is to use the Sani-rinse option, this option heats the water in the sump to 165F and then turns on the main pump and sprays the dishes, even though the dishes never reach 165F this setting will leave the dishes much hotter than using the Soak&Scrub cycle.



Post# 897446 , Reply# 7   9/6/2016 at 11:32 (713 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Thank you

akronman's profile picture
for advice, I'll post more when the water valve comes in. Why is it double?

As for drying, I am very used to opening the top of the Mobile Maid, the front of the KDS-23, and the front of the 1982 GE to allow air-drying, I don't think it will be an issue for me.

Our Ephemera section doesn't have a Usage guide for the 19 series, but I'll wade thru the schematic inside the door a few times until I settle on mostly NORMAL, sometimes POTS PANS.

My 23 series has been a workhorse and handles some amazing baked on crud, I barely notice a difference in the racks for the 19 series, I' think I will be just fine.

With washers and dryers all being in a 100 year old basement, I never really cared about how they mix/match, etc, but my kitchen has white appliances with chrome accents, and the architect series 23 is all white white and white. So i am looking forward to repainting this, getting the classic white KA with all those chrome buttons!

Thanks again--

Post# 897447 , Reply# 8   9/6/2016 at 11:35 (713 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Advice Please

akronman's profile picture
See the pic on reply 3, pic#3, water deposits on the inlet/air gap. Anything to do?

  View Full Size
Post# 897551 , Reply# 9   9/6/2016 at 22:18 (712 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        

combo52's profile picture

Hi Mark, yes the mineral deposits at the inlet air-gap just need to be scraped and cleaned away, then see if the IAG is leaking at all during fill, if so you might need to modify it or replace it.


The dual inlet valves were used to reduce the chance that the inlet valve would ever fail to close and cause a flood. Only KA, MT and Wasteking ever used these valves in there DWs. It is hard to tell if this dual valve ever prevented many floods, but one thing for sure is that they had about twice the failure rate of single valves, LOL.

Post# 898176 , Reply# 10   9/10/2016 at 20:45 (708 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
Used water inlet valve

akronman's profile picture
Ebay used valve, $35, installed and the machine ran---for two fills only!! Then the used valve failed! I removed it, took it to the basement to inspect, and one solenoid works perfectly, the other one works if you push on the contact while energizing, so some wire or connection inside is faulty for sure. So I'll return that one.

Brainy or stupid??? I went back to the original bad valve that came with the machine, I took it apart and removed the bad spring, plunger/magnet, and the black rubber valve seat(?) leaving it as bad solenoid=always open, good solenoid works properly. It is now on the machine and I'm on my third load of dishes. Umm, brainy or stupid?

My only KA comparison is my Architect series 23 model Superba, so bear with me, and I haven't stood right next to the machine to check everything. It seems as though NORMAL wash starts with a neutral fill, while most later fills are with the motor running, pumping/spraying as soon as there's enough water. Doesn't that mean 2 different fill levels? Weird.

So far excellent cleaning, though I haven't really had any baked on/fried on/roasted on/dried on testing, and I really don't know the different cycles yet.

Question-----3 spray arms are identical with 3 holes each, then one arm has 2 holes plus a third on the bottom? What's the purpose?

Forum Index:       Other Forums:                      

Comes to the Rescue!

The Discuss-o-Mat has stopped, buzzer is sounding!!!
If you would like to reply to this thread please log-in...

Discuss-O-MAT Log-In

New Members
Click Here To Sign Up.

Discuss-o-Mat Forums
Vintage Brochures, Service and Owners Manuals
Fun Vintage Washer Ephemera
See It Wash!
Video Downloads
Audio Downloads
Picture of the Day
Patent of the Day
Photos of our Collections
The Old Aberdeen Farm
Vintage Service Manuals
Vintage washer/dryer/dishwasher to sell?
Technical/service questions?
Looking for Parts?
Website related questions?
Digital Millennium Copyright Act Policy
Our Privacy Policy