Thread Number: 64426  /  Tag: Modern Dishwashers
Calling Combo52, timer block repair
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Post# 870673   3/5/2016 at 10:30 (2,967 days old) by chetlaham (United States)        

chetlaham's profile picture
I know you are an expert in repairing countless machines, something I lack. Please forgive me if obvious, but do I need a special tool when crimping these? And how do you go about doing it (properly) lol?


www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/G...


I plan on crimping them to new wire and inserting them in one of these:


www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/G...


Looks simple enough but Im also kind of puzzled.





Post# 870941 , Reply# 1   3/7/2016 at 03:27 (2,966 days old) by d-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area))        
Hi Robert

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The terminals you've linked to are what's known as "open barrel," and they do require a different type of crimper than the more common insulated type. You can see what they look like in the attached pictures lifted from the link provided. The tool shown is a dual crimp type, meaning it will make both crimps simultaneously (one crimp into the wire and one into the insulation), but cheaper single crimp tools are also available. As for the dual crimpers, you can find them at any number of on line vendors and prices can vary greatly, so a used pair off of eBay may be a better bet.



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Post# 870942 , Reply# 2   3/7/2016 at 03:55 (2,966 days old) by brucelucenta ()        

Wow! Guess you could go into the technical trades training business.

Post# 870954 , Reply# 3   3/7/2016 at 05:28 (2,966 days old) by chetlaham (United States)        

chetlaham's profile picture
Would these be the correct (and a good) crimper? The name sounds corny but they look like a re branded version of eclipse.



www.homedepot.com/p/Pro-sKit-Ratc...


Post# 870955 , Reply# 4   3/7/2016 at 05:28 (2,966 days old) by chetlaham (United States)        
Thanks you! :)

chetlaham's profile picture
This is exactly what I was looking for. Let me do some research and I will ask more questions. This is great info.




Post# 871006 , Reply# 5   3/7/2016 at 11:47 (2,965 days old) by d-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area))        

d-jones's profile picture

Bruce - LOL - The only reason I know anything about this is that I went through this myself a while back. I was looking for a crimper and terminals that would produce a crimp exactly like the ones found on the original wiring harnesses of my machines and this is what I came up with. I'm a bit of a stickler for details and like things to look original after a repair.

 

Robert - Yes, those are the type of tool you're looking for, but the one review that particular pair of crimpers received mentions a troublesome gap between the two ends of the crimping die. He does say with some extra care a good crimp can still be made, but according to him it's also easy to destroy the terminal with them instead, so be careful. Good price though if they work. I paid far more for mine off the Snap-On truck.

 

 


Post# 871043 , Reply# 6   3/7/2016 at 14:38 (2,965 days old) by chetlaham (United States)        

chetlaham's profile picture
What model crimper to you get for your application? Im confused if the HD version crimps both conductor and insulation or just one at a time.

Post# 871053 , Reply# 7   3/7/2016 at 15:35 (2,965 days old) by d-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area))        

d-jones's profile picture

Yes, the Home Depot crimper is a dual crimp tool and should work. Mine is a Blue Point set made for Snap-On and sold off of their tool trucks - so a bit on the pricey side.


Post# 871090 , Reply# 8   3/7/2016 at 18:14 (2,965 days old) by chetlaham (United States)        

chetlaham's profile picture
The trouble the guy mentioned, is it common for low end crimpers? I am seeing all the good ones being over $100, so I am skeptical of something that only costs $30.

Post# 871298 , Reply# 9   3/8/2016 at 12:52 (2,964 days old) by chetlaham (United States)        
How to crimp

chetlaham's profile picture
Came across what I think is an excellent explanation of the process. Even shows how to put the connector in the crimp:


www.xj4ever.com/crimping%20my%20s...


Post# 871382 , Reply# 10   3/8/2016 at 21:55 (2,964 days old) by d-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area))        

d-jones's profile picture
That's a pretty useful guide. And if you look at the crimpers used in it you can see there's a small gap between the two halves of the forming die that don't seem to cause the user any trouble. So with any luck you should have everything you need. I hope it all works out for you.

Post# 871445 , Reply# 11   3/9/2016 at 06:51 (2,964 days old) by chetlaham (United States)        
Thanks!

chetlaham's profile picture
The HD crimpers have an adjustment screw, so if worse comes to worse I can play with that to get the right outcome. I will buy at least a ton of those terminals to practice with before actually trying it out on the machine.

Post# 872511 , Reply# 12   3/14/2016 at 16:03 (2,958 days old) by chetlaham (United States)        
Removal tool

chetlaham's profile picture
I saw a removal tool for molex connectors and was wondering if such a creature existed for appliance timer blocks. That way I can removed the terminals from the older timer block and re-use the existing. If anything it will be a lot easier to do it that way rather then cutting off the old block and redoing all the terminals.


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