Thread Number: 64433  /  Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Stuck spanner nut -- Maytag LAT2600AAE
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Post# 870766   3/6/2016 at 00:32 (2,945 days old) by RoseRed ()        

Hello, hoping to get help.

Purchased a Maytag LAT2600AAE that had been sitting unused for close to 2 yrs. Gave it a test run and it seems to be running ok. What I did see was that it had fabric softener/detergent all over the tub ring. Removed the front and flip up the top and saw that it was going to be much more than just scrubbing the tub ring.

Removed the tub ring, and agitator, found a mound of hard white stuff in the center all up to the spanner nut. Wire brushed the area and cleaned it best I could. Got the spanner wrench and banged clock wise, but the nut won't budge. The part (spanner washer) under the spanner nut is rusty so I think that is part of the problem. Sprayed some PB-blaster on the spanner nut and letting it sit over night. Will try banging it out again in the morning.

The filter at the bottom of the spin tub was covered with and "glued" on by the white stuff, but I was able to pry it off, and took a couple of hrs of soaking in vinegar and scrubbing to get it clean. There is white residue covering the bottom of the outer tub and caked on white residue between the spin basket and the concrete counter weight.

If I can't get the spanner nut and spin basket out to give both tubs a good cleaning, would adding something like LemiShine to a hot wash break up the stuff stuck to the inside of the tubs to clean it out. I've also read adding a quart of bleach to a tub full of hot water and letting it soak for 1 hr than let the cycle complete. The same procedure is followed but the second time with 1 quart of vinegar.

I welcome any help in getting this washer cleaned up and doing laundry.





Post# 870840 , Reply# 1   3/6/2016 at 13:19 (2,944 days old) by RoseRed ()        

Been spraying PB-blaster/WD-40 and hammering the spanner nut till my ears hurt. Still won't budge. Said to husband that I needed a cold chisel to try and cut it out. He already was not happy that I bought a used machine. Said to take it as a loss get rid of it and go buy a new washer. Was thinking of calling in one of the local repairman to have him do the job, but I'm sure husband would not go for that either.

Post# 870841 , Reply# 2   3/6/2016 at 13:20 (2,944 days old) by Askodude ()        

Can't you -carefully- heat it up with a torch? It helped removing a stuck pedal on a Shimano bike crank for me.

Post# 870847 , Reply# 3   3/6/2016 at 14:27 (2,944 days old) by vacerator (Macomb, Michigan)        
My dad used

Liquid wrench penetrating oil. W-D40 should also do it. Let it soak in a few days before heating it up.


Post# 870848 , Reply# 4   3/6/2016 at 14:29 (2,944 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

Yeah, a blow torch/dryer will often help with freeing up stuck parts.

 

Others will have to confirm one way or another, but could the spanner nut have a reverse thread?

 

You might try punching applicable terms into the "Super Searchalator" option at the top right of the forum index page, below the regular search field, to see if there are any old threads with helpful information.


Post# 870850 , Reply# 5   3/6/2016 at 14:36 (2,944 days old) by RoseRed ()        

@Askodude

I don't have a torch and husband doesn't want me to spend any more money on the machine. I have to make do with what I have on hand.


Post# 870859 , Reply# 6   3/6/2016 at 15:10 (2,944 days old) by RoseRed ()        

@vacerator
I think I remember seeing a can of Liquid Wrench in the storage shed. Will look for it and try that.

@rp2813
From previous readings, with this Maytag the spanner nut is loosened to the right (clockwise). I'll recheck. Blow dryer is that meaning a hair dryer? I do have one that blows quite hot air.



Post# 870863 , Reply# 7   3/6/2016 at 15:30 (2,944 days old) by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture

Connie, where in Texas are you?


Post# 870864 , Reply# 8   3/6/2016 at 15:31 (2,944 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

Yes, a hair dryer.  It's worth a try using the hottest setting.


Post# 870917 , Reply# 9   3/6/2016 at 22:22 (2,944 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        
the spanner nut is loosened to the right (clockwise)

rp2813's profile picture

If that is true, then it sounds like it is a reverse thread.


Post# 870931 , Reply# 10   3/7/2016 at 01:25 (2,944 days old) by nickatnight ()        
Left-Hand Thread

One of our local experts has confirmed you should be tapping your spanner wrench in the clock-wise direction, for this particular washer.


Post# 870946 , Reply# 11   3/7/2016 at 04:40 (2,943 days old) by brucelucenta ()        

This post has been removed by the member who posted it.



Post# 871001 , Reply# 12   3/7/2016 at 11:23 (2,943 days old) by RoseRed ()        

@appnut
I am way down south, in the RGV.


I want to try something before going any further. I tested the washer in place where it had been sitting unused for approx. 2 yrs, after the seller's father went into a nursing home. Used cold low water settings. Don't yet know how the washer is going to function with a full load of water.

I've been working on it in my back porch. I am thinking of connecting the water supply hoses to the washer. Connecting the hot to a garden hose going to the hot water supply in the laundry room. The cold to the outside garden hose. I have 2" pvc pipe and an elbow that I can use to rig up a drain. Normally one should not use an extension cord to power a washer but I would need to use one to reach the electrical outlet. I have a 9 ft. 14 gauge appliance cord. Would it be ok to do like 3 hot wash runs using the appliance cord. I don't want to set the washer up in the laundry room at this time, in case the pump or something else goes and end up with water running out of the washer in the laundry room.

I'm thinking the hot water with 2-3 cups of vinegar may also help to loosen up any sediment that may be "gluing" the spanner nut in place.



Post# 871005 , Reply# 13   3/7/2016 at 11:36 (2,943 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
Depends on if the extension cord is heavy enough for the length.  I had trouble with running some Maytags (A206 and A608) via (too light of) an extension cord, the motor had trouble under load getting up to speed to drop out of the start winding.

I'd expect PB more likely to help than a vinegar soak.


Post# 871094 , Reply# 14   3/7/2016 at 18:51 (2,943 days old) by RoseRed ()        

@DADoES

The appliance cord is 15 Amp/125 Volt. Would this be sufficient?


Post# 871356 , Reply# 15   3/8/2016 at 19:38 (2,942 days old) by RoseRed ()        

Success, success - the spanner nut is off. Had a trip to Lowes today and since I was there checked what they had and bought a can of WD40 Specialist rust release penetrant spray. Sprayed the nut and about half hr. later pounded on it a bit, sprayed again. This time waited maybe 2 hrs and gave it another go. At about the 3rd or 4th hit it broke free.

Don't know if it was the WD40 Specialist itself or the combination of penetrants used. I am just so glad the spanner nut is off.

Now to the spin basket, it looks to be stuck at the center. Is it ok to spray the center area?


Post# 871878 , Reply# 16   3/11/2016 at 10:54 (2,939 days old) by RoseRed ()        
mounting stem

When the inner tub was removed, part of the tannish/brownish part that wraps around the mounting stem came up stuck to the inner basket. What is left on the mounting stem looks to be falling apart. Does this mean the entire mounting stem/seal needs to be replaced?



www.repairclinic.com/PartDetail/T...


Post# 871884 , Reply# 17   3/11/2016 at 11:52 (2,939 days old) by vacerator (Macomb, Michigan)        
Connie,

My dad always changed every seal or part that touched an old one. New parts work best with other new parts.
But, if your rubber seal looks good, with no tears, or wear, if you can get just the cork gasket, why not?
Once dad was rebuilding an old belt drive Whirlpool spin tube and clutch. He used new oil lite bearings. I asked why. He told me because even thought hey bleed oil as they spin, if they are worn too thin to fill up the space between the agitator shaft and spin tube, both would wear faster, and would be loud.
As he did not have a micrometer to measure their thickness, he replaced them.
Good as new!


Post# 871932 , Reply# 18   3/11/2016 at 16:26 (2,939 days old) by RoseRed ()        

After spending quite some time chipping away at the concrete like calcified layer covering the bottom and sides of the outer tub, the problem with the cork gasket and still not knowing whether the washer is going to work, decided to throw in the towel.

Thanks to all who gave me advice on this venture.


Post# 871994 , Reply# 19   3/12/2016 at 03:26 (2,939 days old) by nickatnight ()        
Dang............

The wife & I, both engineers, tune in for the science and, don't forget, the Quest.

For only $49.55 + tax + a little more labor, we would all have known for sure.

All kidding aside, our direct-drive Whirlpool wasn't in much better shape. I revived it to help avoid complaints about washing shop towels in the new daily driver.

Anyways, good luck to you.


Post# 873673 , Reply# 20   3/21/2016 at 13:06 (2,929 days old) by RoseRed ()        

Hello again. After a few days of rest, I picked up the towel again. Finally got both tubs all cleaned and went on to clean and re-greased the motor glides. The transmission pulley was covered with greased on linty gunk that looked like cat fur. Removed the pulley and cleaned it.

Does the center in the transmission pulley need to be re-greased? If so, what kind of grease and how much to put on?

Locally I can't find Zoom Spout oil to lube the pump. Would the blue label 3-IN-1 SAE 20 motor oil be ok/safe to use?

www.3inone.com/products/motor-oil...

Do the motor and pump pulleys need to be lubed?


Post# 873678 , Reply# 21   3/21/2016 at 13:36 (2,929 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

I don't think blue 3-in-1 (basically motor oil) is the same as Zoom (turbine oil), but for your purposes it might not matter. 

 

I found Zoom at my local ACE Hardware.


Post# 873922 , Reply# 22   3/22/2016 at 17:38 (2,928 days old) by RoseRed ()        
rp2813, thanks for the tip

Tracked down the nearest ACE hardware and called them up. Yes, they did have Zoom oil. Approx. 43 mi. round trip, purchased two bottles.

The washer is up and washing, but since I am not familiar with this type of washer I am not sure if the washer is running right.

Is the spin basket and transmission suppose to move little by little clockwise following each counter-clockwise stroke of the agitator?

At the start of the drain/spin there is like a chirping sound from either the pump or underneath where the pulleys/belts are. The sound goes away as the spin gathers speed.

At the end of the spin cycle the spin basket coasts till it stops.


Post# 874508 , Reply# 23   3/26/2016 at 13:04 (2,924 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Maytag LAT2600AAE

tinkr's profile picture
I have the same washer. The coasting to a stop after spinning... mine coasts to a stop. As for advancing while agitating opening the lid stops the machine, So I can't help you there.
This is a very durable machine 15 years old (approx) and very heavy use and still running fine.
So fixing it will pay you back in years of service.
I will be repairing mine if it gives up the ghost before I do.


Post# 874512 , Reply# 24   3/26/2016 at 13:14 (2,924 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

I'm pretty sure the term for the basket movement you've described is "indexing" but I don't know whether it's something your machine is supposed to be doing or not.  Maytag experts here can advise if any of them happens to visit this thread.


Post# 874547 , Reply# 25   3/26/2016 at 23:14 (2,924 days old) by RoseRed ()        
coasting to stop

@tinkr

Would you please, please check if your washer also slows/coasts to a stop when the lid is raised during the spin cycle. Also if it starts filling for the rinse before the spin tub has completely stopped.


@rp2813

After a few loads the spin tub quit the in-step clockwise rotation. Now with each stroke of the agitator it just shifts approx 1/4" clockwise and shifts back. Hoping this is now normal.


Post# 874548 , Reply# 26   3/26/2016 at 23:21 (2,924 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        
Indexing

rp2813's profile picture

Sounds like the mechanism just needed to sort things out.  The tub is behaving normally now, per your description.

 

I've been around various makes of machines that start the rinse fill before the spinning tub comes to a complete stop.  I can see how that would assist with the braking action.


Post# 874594 , Reply# 27   3/27/2016 at 10:46 (2,923 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
slows/coasts to a stop

tinkr's profile picture
Yes it slow to a stop and it does start filling before it completely stops.
the tub stops washing when I open the lid so I can't inform you on the indexing.


Post# 874623 , Reply# 28   3/27/2016 at 18:09 (2,923 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
Spin should come to a full stop within ~5 seconds.  Sounds like the brake package isn't functioning quite properly.


Post# 874898 , Reply# 29   3/29/2016 at 20:21 (2,921 days old) by RoseRed ()        

@tinkr

Thank you for taking the time to check on the spin/brake function of your washer.

I'm really liking the wash/agitate action of this Maytag.


Post# 875215 , Reply# 30   4/1/2016 at 08:24 (2,918 days old) by RoseRed ()        
Question on pump pulley

How easily should the pump pulley spin/rotate?

Post# 875247 , Reply# 31   4/1/2016 at 17:27 (2,918 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture

should spin very easy



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