Thread Number: 66717
/ Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Calling US Top Loader Experts!! Whirlpool TL Service help please! :-) |
[Down to Last] |
Post# 893783   8/13/2016 at 17:19 (2,784 days old) by ServisChris (Southampton, Hampshire UK)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
Hello, I was wondering if any American Top Loader experts could give me any info about how this machine comes apart. I got this off of a client in the week however they had cross threaded the inlet hoses meaning I cant put an inlet hose on the valve and use the machine.
I was wondering if anyone could tell me how the machine is built..how do I get it apart to change the inlet valves, Ive never worked on a top loader so this is a first for me! Or if anyone has a service manual for one I'd appreciate being shown one! I have attached a picture however I havent got the model number to hand and its only a pic of it in my workshop. Will grab it later on. Thanks in advance Chris |
|
Post# 893788 , Reply# 1   8/13/2016 at 18:12 (2,784 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
2    
The console flips back (hinged at the top corners), disconnect the lid switch harness, two spring clips beneath are removed that anchor the outer cabinet (front/sides/top) to the rear panel, then the cabinet tilts forward and off the base. The rear panel remains 'standing' in place. Appears the console on your model is anchored to the top either by screws at the back corners of the endcaps, or by clips under the front corners. Look for the screws first. They're long and need to be unscrewed fully but the plastic tabs hold them in place so you don't necessarily have to take them completely out. Pull the console slightly forward then tilt it back. Probably clips if no screws. Slip a putty knife or other thin blade under the console and press to the rear to release the clips while lifting on the console at the same time. When setting the cabinet back in place, there are upward-turned tabs at the rear corners of the base frame that fit into slots on the base edge of the side panels to stabilize the panels. Sometimes is a bit tricky to get aligned. Don't forget to reconnect the lid switch. |
Post# 893809 , Reply# 3   8/13/2016 at 21:12 (2,784 days old) by chetlaham (United States)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 893815 , Reply# 4   8/13/2016 at 23:06 (2,784 days old) by paulinroyton (B)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
www.4whirlpool.co.uk/washing-mach... |
Post# 893816 , Reply# 5   8/13/2016 at 23:13 (2,784 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
|
Post# 893922 , Reply# 7   8/14/2016 at 18:12 (2,783 days old) by ServisChris (Southampton, Hampshire UK)   |   | |
Checkrate/Likes
 
     
Hi all
@ DADoES Thanks for the pics and the info. It actualy looks and sounds simpler than I thought, that may change though when I actually change the valves haha! Yes, these machines were sold over here and made for the UK's supplies so the inlet valves are standard 3/4inch fittings and the machine is made for a 220V imput rather than the 110V imput like over in the US. It's still made in the US though! We do have water meters and as it so happens our house is on one so I wont use it all that often. :-( Shame cos it looks like a really good machine. I will try attempting to take it apart tomorow and see how far I get, Thanks for all you imput and sorry if this seems like a brief response! Chris |