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Thread Number: 68184  /  Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Washer wont run with lid up
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Post# 909031   11/29/2016 at 18:09 by quincyman (St. Petersburg, Florida)        

Recently aquired a hardly used Whirlpool Top Load Washer and hate the fact that it won't run with lid up. Used to have a Maytag I was able to bypass the lid switch on. This machine, like many whirlpools, has no switch.

Post# 909034 , Reply# 1   11/29/2016 at 18:29 by ea56 (So. Sonoma Co.,CA)        

ea56's profile picture
If its one of the newer Whrilpools with the plastic tab on the corner of the lid and it fits into a corresponding opening in the corner of the washers top I think you can unscrew the tab on the lid ( you may need an allen wrench) and just put this tab into the opening on top of the washer.

Post# 909035 , Reply# 2   11/29/2016 at 18:32 by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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post a pic......most we have been able to by-pass...or found a way to get around it for the most part....

Post# 909044 , Reply# 3   11/29/2016 at 20:23 by quincyman (St. Petersburg, Florida)        
Pictures of it.

Thank you both. Here are two pics of the machine.

  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 2         View Full Size
Post# 909051 , Reply# 4   11/29/2016 at 21:16 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
Later DD Washer

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These are easy to bypass, just open the control panel and jump the wires to the lid switch, the nice thing about bypassing the lid switch on a WP DD machine is there is no off-balance so you don't risk washer damage like on a MT when you bypass its lid switch.


WP DD washers are a lot more rugged than MT helical drive washers in the suspension area.

Post# 909055 , Reply# 5   11/29/2016 at 21:36 by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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yeah, that's an easy one!.....

two screws on the back of the control panel.....pull forward and lift/flip up and backwards....

many choices on jumping the lid switch wires....once and done.....

Post# 909200 , Reply# 6   12/1/2016 at 07:15 by quincyman (St. Petersburg, Florida)        

Thanks. Going to do it this A.M.. Don't know why I get nervous before attempting these things. Usually very easy.
Is it obvious which wires go to the lid switch?

Post# 909214 , Reply# 7   12/1/2016 at 08:42 by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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well, you will have to unplug the machine for safety....

once you lift the console up, you will see the plug on the right hand side, its usually mounted in place, and a simple squeeze tab to remove it.....

I use a short jumper wire and slide it inside, and then wrap with tape, that way I can always put it back if needed....

would a pic help?

Post# 909998 , Reply# 8   12/7/2016 at 07:51 by Wishwash (Illinois)        

Not to hijack this thread, but what makes the Maytag suspension relatively weak?

Post# 910001 , Reply# 9   12/7/2016 at 08:06 by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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which Maytag?

are we talking FLers?....Bravos?...or DirectDrives?

Post# 910044 , Reply# 10   12/7/2016 at 16:12 by Wishwash (Illinois)        

The aforementioned helical drives. (I assume orbitals have the same suspension?)

Post# 910065 , Reply# 11   12/7/2016 at 19:02 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
All Two Belt Maytag Washers

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Are helical Drive Machines, Yes they changed to a better short stroke orbital transmission around 1990, but the earlier and later style machines still use the Helical drive system to change from agitating to spinning.

Post# 910068 , Reply# 12   12/7/2016 at 19:49 by Lorainfurniture (Cleveland )        

The maytag units had to be perfectly leveled, on a concrete floor. If they were, they would be rock solid. If not, they would constantly go off balance.

The direct drive certainly was built with looser tolerances, and rear self leveling legs. You could practically lay them on their side and they still won't go off balance.

Post# 910639 , Reply# 13   12/11/2016 at 14:38 by quincyman (St. Petersburg, Florida)        
Couldn't get top off

Sorry guys, but I couldn't get the top panel off. Undid the two screws but no matter how I tried to get control Panel off, I just couldn't seem to and was afraid I'd break something.

Post# 910640 , Reply# 14   12/11/2016 at 14:48 by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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there should have been two screws from the back side of this type of panel......sometimes a little tab keeps it in place, and you may have to use a small screw driver to hold it back, but those screws must be removed....

basically your going to put both hands on both sides, and just pull forward, and then lift then should flip up backwards....

Post# 910746 , Reply# 15   12/12/2016 at 08:13 by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
this will give you an idea of gaining access and different ways to get the control panel off....there are several setups...

Post# 910747 , Reply# 16   12/12/2016 at 08:20 by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
this is usually how we by-pass the switch.....this allows you to put it back if needed to original specs.....

don't know why we need a disclaimer....but here should unplug the machine while doing this, and your doing this at your own risk....

Post# 911135 , Reply# 17   12/14/2016 at 13:53 by quincyman (St. Petersburg, Florida)        
What Wires?

White, gray or Green? Which to do I connect?

Post# 911139 , Reply# 18   12/14/2016 at 14:25 by quincyman (St. Petersburg, Florida)        
Duhhhh, the ground was screwed into top

Finally got it done. Thanks for your help!!!

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