Thread Number: 68522  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Maytag DE806 Thanks
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Post# 912660   12/26/2016 at 13:53 by duke (lexington SC/usa)        

Just a big thank you to kenmore71 (Mark) and Beekeeknee (Brian) for the ultimate repair,modification and breakdown information of the DE806.Found this 1971 model on craigslist for 65 bucks in my hometown area of Columbia SC.Without all of the repair guidance this unit would be in the trash..I will be posting more picures concerning Mark's modifications of the electronic control.Thanks to every one of you that contribute and keep these classics spinning.-- Duke

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Post# 912665 , Reply# 1   12/26/2016 at 15:08 by rp2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        

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Great news!  We love posts like this!

Post# 912685 , Reply# 2   12/26/2016 at 19:54 by duke (lexington SC/usa)        
matching washer a806 ???

Anybody heading south near S.C. for vacation in 2017?? How about pack up that A806 preferably blue strip  or maybe a A702 .We can pay for that trouble & gasoline.Just think about it--Duke

Post# 912707 , Reply# 3   12/27/2016 at 06:09 by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

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I have the matching washer, unchecked, in storage. It can be had.

Post# 912745 , Reply# 4   12/27/2016 at 13:33 by Frigidaireguy (Wiston-Salem, NC)        

That is what this club is all about being able to help each other with not only repairs, etc. but helping each other find matching machines. I have let several go because someone had the matching dryer or washer.

Post# 912761 , Reply# 5   12/27/2016 at 16:27 by duke (lexington SC/usa)        

Thanks Goatfarmer but  1--Indiana to SC is a ways

                                            2--That word unchecked could mean disaster

                                            3--Shipping cost and potential damage

I noticed you drive a truck and if that's long haul driving ,then maybe we should talk.I am not afraid of a rebuild.I am afraid of finding the parts.

Post# 912766 , Reply# 6   12/27/2016 at 16:44 by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

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Local driving only.

Post# 912770 , Reply# 7   12/27/2016 at 17:03 by duke (lexington SC/usa)        

How peculiar it is to own a classic Maytag  A806 and never even checking to see if it works.You must be very rich.Thank you

Post# 912773 , Reply# 8   12/27/2016 at 17:32 by Travis (St. Louis)        


Vintage Maytags are still fairly common and also very easy to find parts for. Many of us keep a look out for vintage things that are local. Rescuing a washing machine is relatively easy, but hooking one up isn't as much. I have a couple of machines that I have had for years that I have never played with yet.

If you want an old Maytag, keep watching Craigslist or make friends with a local appliance dealer. Don't expect that having something shipped makes financial sense. You do it because you want that one or feel sorry for it.

Post# 912775 , Reply# 9   12/27/2016 at 17:46 by duke (lexington SC/usa)        

Sorry to disagree with you Travis,but are a garden hose Y fitting.2 washer hoses and a grounded extention cord plus a few beers in the afternoon too much too ask?Thats all it takes --P.S.-Keep your drain hose a little higher than the control panel,maybe use a Y tree branch stabbed in the ground and don't even try this if dumb.--Thanks

Post# 912787 , Reply# 10   12/27/2016 at 19:14 by Travis (St. Louis)        


Yes, for someone to offer you something for free it's too much to ask. I personally wouldn't attempt to water test a washer in my unheated garage. That's if I had room to do so. I am full up on monitor tops. I would assume that we all have quite a bit piled up.

You'll find one I am sure.

Post# 912807 , Reply# 11   12/28/2016 at 01:19 by lowefficiency (Iowa)        

I guess that means I need to work on getting out there faster, eh Kenny?   wink   

I have my DE806 all cleaned up and ready to go... just need to find the time to head east to check out your A806!  

Post# 912828 , Reply# 12   12/28/2016 at 06:45 by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

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Travis has it right. Today, it's about 25 degrees outside. Kinda tough hooking up a washer and checking it out. A washer that I'm not going to do anything with.


 No, not rich, I have a deal worked out with an appliance store to get the trade ins they don't want. I get older Maytag's offered all the time. The nicer ones, like 806's, or ones in  minty condition, go into a pole barn, along with probably a dozen or so round top refrigerators, some BD Whirlpools, a Servel gas fridge, and a few other treasures I've rounded up over the years. Travis, still have the pink Maytag's out there.laughing


Dave, I'm still looking for a gold backed 806 for ya. They are still out there, just haven't located one yet.

Post# 915566 , Reply# 13   1/13/2017 at 20:54 by duke (lexington SC/usa)        

I wanted to share my DE806 electronic changes as prescribed by kenmore71 (mark).This is a 3-3049 control that I soldered a pigtail harness to test mark's different ideas and capacitors.I am in hvac so I have plenty of wiring and I cut the silly connectors off the original harness

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Post# 915567 , Reply# 14   1/13/2017 at 21:01 by duke (lexington SC/usa)        

Notice the different circuit boards they used inside the 3-3049 black box.It's as if they are just as confused as I while trying to figure dry times.

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Post# 915568 , Reply# 15   1/13/2017 at 21:09 by duke (lexington SC/usa)        

Soldering the connections removes the doubt ,Therefore you can move on to your next guess.I will finish with what I feel are the most aggravating issues of de806 inconsistant drying with some new pictures.

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Post# 915583 , Reply# 16   1/14/2017 at 01:30 by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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I don't know if anyone told you or not, but I found that replacing the the cool down thermostat (pt. # 3-3037 or pt # off my dryer is 3-03037-2. A red wire with a black stripe went to one pole and a yellow wire with a green stripe went to the other.

I replaced it with a Supco AT021 adjustable thermostat, range 90-130 close on rise. It's been awhile since I did it but as I recall I set the stat to 100 degrees. The bell rings about 10 minutes before shut down, so unfortunately you have to look at the clock and and add about 10 minutes, more or less, depending on load. Then get the clothes out. You can adjust the cool down period with the new stat. Another brand of stat would probably work just as well, like Gemline or Robert Shaw.

I've found it makes all the differents in the world in HOH drying. Cool, less wrinkled clothes, much better lint collection for some reason (maybe less static cling?).

And shorter vent runs always seem to help. The vent run on my dryer was very short and a friend of mine commented that short run shouldn't need to be cleaned much. I checked it and it was pretty dirty. A quick run thru with the LintEater about once a year keeps things working pretty well.

Hope this helps someone and I haven't repeated myself.


Post# 915699 , Reply# 17   1/14/2017 at 19:47 by duke (lexington SC/usa)        

Thanks Brian.
Let us all get my brain right on sequence of operation-ok-Wet clothing causes power produced by brush assembly to be routed to ground.As moisture in clothing starts to dry out,voltage starts charging the capacitor atop the 3-3049 control.When the correct voltage has been stored it then fires the control and simultaneously pops the bell solenoid while moving power to the cool down stat.Stat takes over for 2 or 3 minutes until contact opens--END.Everybody chime in if I need more info.I thought I would finish my experiment with this machine today,Instead it kicked my yass all day.As I was wire tying and being extra neat, I pulled a wire free of that bell solenoid.To just look at it you couldn't tell because of that crazy smoked caramel plastic sleeve the terminals are encased in.What a saturday.

Post# 915703 , Reply# 18   1/14/2017 at 20:06 by duke (lexington SC/usa)        

Brian-Now you have my brain firing, thinking of delay on make, delay on break, relay's,adding another bell---Great idea on the cool down stat.I have them on my truck.I wonder why maytag thought about the bell ringing before it was finished running?

Post# 915709 , Reply# 19   1/14/2017 at 21:40 by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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That's exactly right, Duke. And if you get the adjustable cool down stat you can change the cool down time to your benefit. I don't know why Maytag did it that way. Maybe something to do with the brush, the charging and discharging cap? It would be better to ring when it's done.


Mark did something cool a few years back. He put a blue neon behind the gas flame logo and hooked it onto the gas valve voltage, placed it behind the blue flame logo and that way he knew when the burner was on. When I get my machine out again I'm going to hook a yellow 220 neon into the element circuit and place it behind the Maytag logo. Then I will know when the element is cycling.

Post# 915711 , Reply# 20   1/14/2017 at 22:16 by duke (lexington SC/usa)        

Excellent idea,piggyback off the load side of the running stat.

Post# 915717 , Reply# 21   1/14/2017 at 23:00 by duke (lexington SC/usa)        

DE806 Brush components-Left side of pic is new spring & brush,right side is from used 806 dryers.Look how tarnished the copper plate is.Best clean the copper plate,both sides,spring tips,carbon brush to spring area.I actually checked continuity through mine-----nothing.This little generator is sensitive NO oil NO oil just clean and very dry,band also.2nd pic shows installed.You can still get these plastic holders.

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This post was last edited 01/14/2017 at 23:27
Post# 915737 , Reply# 22   1/15/2017 at 03:00 by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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I know it's late and you're probably not up anymore but a warning on those plastic brush holders that are screwed to that drum with that bolt. It's usually best to leave them there. They have a tendency to break. Just take a little screwdriver, loosen the screw on top of the copper plate with the wire, hold your finger over the hole where the spring and wire are, move the copper plate until the spring  starts to pop out and be ready to grab it. It's so tiny and will fly away and you'll never find it. Then you can polish up the copper plate and put it back together.


I know the service techs get tired of hearing me talk about all the little OCD things I do when working on these machines and that no one has time to do that in the field, but it's fun to me to make it all look new again.


While the brush is out you can get some good metal polish out (like Flitz or Mothers Mag and shine up that copper band, get a small paint brush, compressed air and blow and brush the lint off that felt under the copper band. Just don't get it wet. It will ground it out to the housing and it won't work anymore.


I'm sure you've already pulled the drum, cleaned the blower, shaft, spider, wick and all that stuff. That's a must. When you put the cabinet back on, be sure to have it on a sturdy level floor, probably take the rubber feet off, oil the legs, level the machine up all the way around, hook up door switch and route wires, put in side screws and start to check for cabinet alignment. With and w/o the back on. Sometimes pulling on the cabinet corners while watching screw hole alignment on back cover and checking to see if the front hole opening is even all the way around will make things go better in the end. The hole alignment on the front of mine is pretty good and I can see small fibers from the front seal sticking out from around the perimeter where the hole in the cabinet meets the drum. If you want to protect your cabinet bottom, you can lay down and old quilt or blanket so the bottom won't get scratched. There goes my OCD again. Used to be called perfectionist.


I wouldn't change the drum centering unless I had to. Usually cabinet alignment can fix that problem. Then manual says: 1. With the dryer level and the back panel on, checkto see where the drum is hitting or is too close to the shroud. 2. Remove back panel. 3. Slightly loosen three bolts holding the housing to the housing supports. 4. Move drum in proper directon to corect misalignment. Center drum so the space on each side is equal and the drum is slightly closer to the shroud on the bottom than on the top. 5. Retighten three bolts holding housing. 6. Reinstall back panel. 7. Recheck drum centering. If further adjustment is necessary,  repeat above steps. Ugh. Wouldn't want to do it, but would if had to. Cabinet alignment and leveling is so much easier. If that didn't work, then I might consider housing centering.


In photo 2: There's your cool down stat.


Once I messed up one of those little brushes some how; broke it I think. So I went to Ace hardware, got the smallest brush I could find with no wire embedded in it, a short strip of black emery paper and went to work. Laid the emery paper down on a flat surface, laid the brush on it, slid it back and forth a few times while checking often to see if it would fit in the holder. Once I got the outside dimensions right, I checked it for proper length so the spring would fit down inside. Then I reassembled it. Worked perfect. Have to check often. The carbon files off quickly and makes a terrible mess. Be ready for that if you ever have to do it. You can take a damp towel and clean up all the black.


Photo 3. Yeah. Those old parts can be cleaned up and used again as long as they aren't broken.


If you really want to get into it, you can order the Maytag Halo-o-Heat dryer service manual off of Automatic Ephemera.


Looking forward to seeing and hearing more. Let us know how you're getting along.

Post# 916100 , Reply# 23   1/17/2017 at 18:12 by duke (lexington SC/usa)        

I had still been fighting dry times /controls/capacitors and excessive cursing with alcohol.The magic answer ??The brush assembly and slip ring.All of my brush components were new,so I only did a quick continuity check at the angle where accessible.Well,I opened the back up to find zero continuity between wire 20 and the top brush screw plate.I sanded around the whole ring with 400 grit,it works like a new machine now.That damned tarnished ring.Almost EVERY other component was new.The 3-3049 control,3-2528 switch,various capacitors.This is what I would do if you're in doubt of the baffle circuit.One metal strip in EACH baffle inside drum is ground,The other is in the low voltage charge circuit.Disconnect power from dryer.Disconnect wire 20 from 3-3049 control and,inside drum ,check continuity from wire 20 to 1 metal baffle strip while hand turning drum slowly.If beep from meter breaks up while turning--sand the ring.By the way,that pmpc audio capacitor puts the dry times back in sync--Thanks

Post# 916108 , Reply# 24   1/17/2017 at 19:09 by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Hi Duke,
So that copper ring was dirty and giving you trouble?

Post# 916111 , Reply# 25   1/17/2017 at 19:21 by duke (lexington SC/usa)        

Yes, but to look at it didn't register in my head.It has that pathway already made for itself running in the same place for 30 years.After much thought though, Slowly as it turns,It needs full,clean contact all the way around.

I seem to have somehow caused, or found, another problem.This dryer has starting a sound like heavy cards in bicycle spokes until it gets hot,then goes away.I broke it down & lubed as your pictures showed.Any ideas?? anybody?? Everybody?

This post was last edited 01/17/2017 at 19:41
Post# 916112 , Reply# 26   1/17/2017 at 19:45 by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)        

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Are you doing this with the back off, turning the drum and listening for sounds?

Post# 916113 , Reply# 27   1/17/2017 at 19:50 by duke (lexington SC/usa)        

No,She is powered up ,buckled up, running and vented.

Post# 916115 , Reply# 28   1/17/2017 at 19:56 by duke (lexington SC/usa)        

This sound is in the blower area

Post# 916127 , Reply# 29   1/17/2017 at 21:34 by Lowefficiency (Iowa)        

Duke, where did you find the new brush, spring, and holder? I thought I had looked for them at some point in the past, and couldn't find them for sale anywhere...

Post# 916266 , Reply# 30   1/18/2017 at 18:23 by duke (lexington SC/usa)        

Update your email on your profile page & We'll talk.

Post# 916271 , Reply# 31   1/18/2017 at 18:41 by duke (lexington SC/usa)        

I thought the big time pro maytag mechanics would have taken a guess. It is my opinion that the breaking down of the dryer ,especially the bakelite impeller and bearings,cleaning and oiling has revealed a slight bearing play causing a vibration of impeller.Heating swells the plastic bushings quieting them.I have ordered a new bearing/bushing kit for the impeller and will update with pics.

Post# 916331 , Reply# 32   1/19/2017 at 07:20 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
Noisey HOH Dryers

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Blower bearings were a common problem after a lot of use, I would also lubricate the main tub bearings, idler and motor bearings on a dryer this old if it is to get much use.


Good trick about cleaning the copper slip ring, I have also been soldering the terminals on the little circuit board for over 20 years in the field to get these finicky dryers working properly. I just solder the dryer harness directly onto the board, no need to add extra wire or another connection in the harness.

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