Thread Number: 68552  /  Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Does anyone else hate the "normal" cycle on new washers?
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Post# 913053   12/29/2016 at 20:19 (2,645 days old) by ryner1988 (Indianapolis)        

ryner1988's profile picture
Hey all,

So while doing the weekly laundry, I noticed something, and wonder if this is common or if I'm in the minority here.

Ever since I got my new WTW4815FW Whirlpool washer, I tend to avoid the "normal" cycle. I don't like it much. I hate the spray rinse, rather than the deep rinse, and the temperatures are really dumbed down on that cycle. Must be the new energy standards or whatever, but all the same, that cycle stinks in my opinion. I find that "heavy duty" does pretty much the same thing and much more satisfactorily IMO.

For example, this week I did 5 loads of laundry. Towels, on "heavy duty." Socks, underwear, and t-shirts/pajamas on "heavy duty." Nicer pants, my wife's tops, my polos, etc on "casual." A small load of my wife's skirts and a couple sweaters on "delicate." And, finally, blue jeans and a couple pairs of sweats on "heavy duty." All the "heavy duty" cycles would have been my "normal" loads on an older style washer, but I just don't find it does the job anymore, especially on the rinse cycle.

Anyone else have this experience with modern washers? All in all, I really like my washer, once I found out that I should just stay away from that setting generally.

Ryne





Post# 913054 , Reply# 1   12/29/2016 at 20:33 (2,645 days old) by duke ()        

Sorry, We all have to give up some cleanliness for climate change.Learn to swallow your government changes to industry. Funky run times,dishwashers that run 4 hours,and 19 short cycles and dirtier clothes.Sure do hate you can't pay for what you want though.Perhaps buy a reconditioned older unit.

Post# 913056 , Reply# 2   12/29/2016 at 20:46 (2,645 days old) by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.)        

ea56's profile picture
Ryne your washer is essentially the same as the Maytag MVWC415EW that I recently purchased. From what I can gleen from reading the FAQ on Maytag's site the Powerwash (the equivalent of Heavy Duty on yours) and Deep Water Wash on my washer use a little more water, don't use a spray rinse and the warm and hot water settings actually provide just that, real warm and hot water, not cold and warm instead. Consequently, I also use these two cycles primarlily, unless I'm washing a large item like a bedspread, then I use Bulky. I have only used Normal for washing a small, slightly soiled load, and it did just fine for this purpose.

Take a look at Whirlpool's website and you will find out a lot about your washer. For instance, I learned that running the Clean washer cycle monthly not only cleans theh washer, it also resets the calibration so the Auto Sense feature works properly and fill to proper and adequete levels, who knew?

I too really like my washer too.
Eddie


Post# 913061 , Reply# 3   12/29/2016 at 21:11 (2,645 days old) by duke ()        

mvwc415ew -- check it--- reviewed.com

Post# 913064 , Reply# 4   12/29/2016 at 21:21 (2,645 days old) by ryner1988 (Indianapolis)        

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I did not know that about the "afresh" setting redoing the calibration. Where did you find that? Never seen that anywhere.

Post# 913065 , Reply# 5   12/29/2016 at 21:37 (2,645 days old) by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.)        

ea56's profile picture
This is where I found the info about the Affresh Clean cycle. Select not filling as symptom, then Casual, Heavy Duty, Deep Water as the cycle being used. I would imagine that Whirlpool also has a similar website as they make Maytag. Hope this helps.
Eddie


CLICK HERE TO GO TO ea56's LINK




This post was last edited 12/30/2016 at 01:59
Post# 913066 , Reply# 6   12/29/2016 at 21:54 (2,645 days old) by whirlykenmore78 (Prior Lake MN (GMT-0500 CDT.))        
Using a Speed Queen FL here:

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I never use the Normal/Eco cycle.  The Heavy Duty does basically the same thing without dumbed down water temps.  I use this with hot water and second rinse for daily loads.  My clothes have never been this clean.  For dirtier loads I use the Whites cycle and add extra rinses.  Your mileage may vary as I  am working with what is basically a commercial washer dressed up for home use.

WK78


Post# 913075 , Reply# 7   12/29/2016 at 23:08 (2,645 days old) by warmsecondrinse (Fort Lee, NJ)        

I had a GE TL with a plate in the bottom and 2 cups of water per load so I understand your pain. If the tips above don't work out, you could just do what I did before discovering aw.org:

Wash everything twice; I used vinegar as the 'detergent' in the second wash:-)

Jim


Post# 913081 , Reply# 8   12/30/2016 at 00:23 (2,645 days old) by Johnb300m (Chicago)        

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No. My Normal cycle in my front loader works fine.
My water bills are lower. My detergents/softeners last longer, and my clothes are cleaner and less beaten up.
I'm happy with my "government issue" HE washer.

If I need anything really autoclave washed, I have a 140deg SaniWash cycle.
Normal doesn't need to be boiling hot.


Post# 913097 , Reply# 9   12/30/2016 at 03:06 (2,645 days old) by washdaddy (Baltimore)        

Sadly, most of today's new washer's NORMAL cycle are most likely "eco-friendly"...a.k.a. less water use, dumbed down water temps., and clothes not being cleaned the way that we would like. This is all due to our wonderful government and it's regulations that they implemented.

Now for the most part we have to resort to "deep water" cycles or "heavy duty" to hopefully get more water into the machine and maybe even a truer water temperature.

I regrettably have to deal with what comes with the apartment that I live in and deal with that. (dumbed down temps- I just leave the machine on "HOT" which if I'm lucky is tepid at most) If I ever move into another place where I have a choice of machine I will definitely be looking for a good used machine that's in decent shape from the past.


Post# 913100 , Reply# 10   12/30/2016 at 05:00 (2,645 days old) by brucelucenta ()        

Eco friendly is good, but only to a certain point. I think in the case of HE top load washers it is WAY WAY overdone. When a washer on the normal cycle will not even clean or rinse your clothing, that is taking it way too far! I think it is ridiculous to sacrifice having perfectly clean clothes free of soap residue for the sake of having eco friendly machines. I have to admit that even my front load HE machine will really skimp on washing and rinsing on the regular or normal cycle. I too use the heavy duty cycle and add extra rinses. It does wash with a greatly reduced level of water, but seems to get everything clean and rinsed well on that cycle. But then a front load washer is designed to use much less water anyway.

Post# 913106 , Reply# 11   12/30/2016 at 07:31 (2,645 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        
Dishwashers that run 4 hours

I don't see why that bothers people.

Those dishwashers that actually run 3-4h on their rated cycles are usually so quiet that noise shouldn't be a complained.
Usually, there are at least 3-4h between meals, so not having dishes shouldn't be a problem.
If someone has to do several loads a day on a frequent basis, a normal household DW isn't ment to keep up with that workload anyways.

The only thing might be not being abled to load dirty dishes and thus not getting them off the counter.


Post# 913108 , Reply# 12   12/30/2016 at 08:02 (2,644 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
Normal Cycle on Elux617

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I have been using the Normal cycle on my Electrolux 617 Washer and I'm still trying to figure it out. Altering the soil level seems to change more factors than simply wash time. For example, the HOT wash on a Normal soil level produces the little eco-leaf. The temperature of the glass to your hand is warm, like just above room temperature. However, bumping the soil level up to HEAVY or MAX and the glass is HOT to the touch and the Eco-Leaf is off.

Malcolm


Post# 913113 , Reply# 13   12/30/2016 at 08:23 (2,644 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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each machine is going to be a little finicky in its operations, and how much you can alter it.....

first of all, before even talking about a machine, and hot water, what exactly is your heater set at?....I get real hot and warm washes because mine is set at 160....and because were in the winter season, cold water temps for many areas is going to cool that temp down fast...

I have an older Cabrio, direct drive.....you couldn't trick it by taking out the temperature sensor...but you could remove the restrictor on the hot side to allow more of that temp....faster fill times as well....

I have had both, direct drive, and belt drive of these machines, the direct drive gives better washing results....

'normal' cycles are the most eco friendly....as its what most people select without thinking......frankly, I would stay away from that one...

'colors/towels' works best for everyday loads

'sheets' adds a LOT more water....but not a full tub

not sure of all machines, but on this one, selecting 'fabric softener' allows for a filled deep rinse, not a spin spray....

but, you can allow the default spin spray, and add softener to the dispenser, it will dispense, and waterfall spray the load, then spin out....


Post# 913117 , Reply# 14   12/30/2016 at 08:32 (2,644 days old) by Pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)        
my mom and i have a ge profile dishwasher

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my mom and i have a ge profile dishwasher if you take the normal cycle with sani rinse on heat dry it takes 2 hours 19 minute to run the cycle add the bottle jet option raise the cycle to 2 hours 42 minutes and if you need the steam prewash the cycle lengh is 2 hours 69 minutes all of this is related to the energy star qualification.

Post# 913118 , Reply# 15   12/30/2016 at 08:32 (2,644 days old) by Iheartmaytag (Wichita, Kansas)        
I use the Normal cycle quite a bit

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It is my default cycle when the machine is powered up.  It is also my cycle of choice for my permanent press clothes, and T-shirts and under clothes.   Heavy cycle for bath and kitchen towels, as well as sheets and bedding. 

 

Rarely do I use the Whitest/White cycle, as I can modify the other cycles with extra rinse, steam, or extended spin.  Though I do have a sanitize option with the three main cycles, I have only used it twice.  Whitest/Whites with sanitize option is the longest cycle at about 3:30, I just don't see the benefit I will just wash the effected articles in hot wash with LCB and call it done.

 

 


Post# 913129 , Reply# 16   12/30/2016 at 09:58 (2,644 days old) by ryner1988 (Indianapolis)        
Fabric softener seleciton

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I often forget about the fabric softener selector, and that it fills the tub on what would otherwise be a spray rinse cycle. That's the main problem I have with the normal cycle, as I normally wash clothes in cold/cool water anyway, really only use hot for really soiled clothes or towels and bedding. However, my wife itches a lot so I need deep rinses in order to ensure all the laundry detergent is rinsed away.

What's frustrating is when I'll have the settings the way I like them, soil level, fabric softener selector on, etc, and someone else will use the washer and not tel me they switched the options. Ugh, I'm blind, that would be nice to know. That's why I tend to use cycles where it uses a deep rinse, no matter what.

I may give normal a try though with fabric softener selected, if it gives a deep rinse that would be the best for my everyday loads.


Post# 913135 , Reply# 17   12/30/2016 at 10:45 (2,644 days old) by mayken4now (Panama City, Florida)        

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Ryne, back to your original Question.  NO, you are not a minority.

 

IMHO Erase NORMAL off of every appliance.  No such thing.  define Normal??????????????????


Post# 913138 , Reply# 18   12/30/2016 at 11:02 (2,644 days old) by Pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)        
to have a true normal cycle

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to have a true normal cycle and true wash rinse water tempatures you would have to go with a vintage washer before 2009 and now like 1969 to 1999 and credit to members who pictures i am using as exemple i also posted exemple pictures

  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 8         View Full Size
Post# 913145 , Reply# 19   12/30/2016 at 11:43 (2,644 days old) by appnut (TX)        

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I would print a sign and put it on the wall near the washer which essentially says if the user changes options on a cycle to let you now so you can make modification again in the future to suit your needs.  I cannot believe anyone is that thoughtless to use your machine and not realize you've put in effort to put in settings you kn9ow you want and with you being blind. 


Post# 913146 , Reply# 20   12/30/2016 at 11:58 (2,644 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        
Normal cycle in Europe

Before the new energy label, the normal cycle (usually called Cottons or Boil-/Coloredwash, roughly translated) at 60C/140F was the normal labeled cycle, and some other cycles thrown in I think.

After the new label came along, manufacturers needed ways to improve efficency. Thus, they reduced temperatures on the label cycles, therefor added soak periods and extended the cycle times.
BUT they did not make that verry clear. Mieles 60C cycle for example just suddenly took an hour longer.
Some already implemented seperate cycles trimed for efficency, but didn't make it clear that the label would only apply to those cycles. Whirlpools Super Eco cycle is one of the early examples.

Then, some consumer report type magaziines acrosd Europe became aware of that fact and as a result, the EU regulations were changed.
Now, at least on laundry appliances, the cycle the energy ratings are based on are labeled with a small tag simbol.
Thus, you always know if you get the efficency trimmed or the normal cycle version.


Post# 913443 , Reply# 21   1/1/2017 at 07:39 (2,643 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

Appliance manufacturers have a sort of wink, wink, nudge, nudge deal with the bean counters at the Department of Energy that there will be a cycle labeled Normal on washers and dishwashers that will be the default setting for users and testers. It is the cycle that most washer users, ignorant of how to do the job properly, will used when they dump in white and colors and it is the cycle that will be used to get the energy rating for the appliance.

 

For dishwashers, it might not be as bad. I have watched people load their dishwashers after meals and they not only rinse every last bit of food off the dishes, they do it with hot water. It's like in the early 50s when family friends were using the early Apex, Youngstown, GE and KitchenAid machines.


Post# 913445 , Reply# 22   1/1/2017 at 08:22 (2,642 days old) by washman (o)        
Proof positive

that the government does not know what is best.


Post# 913461 , Reply# 23   1/1/2017 at 10:19 (2,642 days old) by Wishwash (Indiana)        
My take on the normal cycle.

I'm using an early model kenmore vmw. If I have a small load of cottons to wash then the normal cycle works just fine. I don't like to run a long wash time on small loads to avoid wearing them out so fast. They get plenty of rollover in the short wash time (I think 8 or 12 minutes). I also find no difference between a spray rinse and deep rinse on these smaller loads pending the load is made up of cottons that are easily soaked without agitation. I've even tried bypassing the lid lock and physically moving the clothes around while the water sprays down on them. The difference is negligible. Why waste the extra 10 gallons when they come out just fine? I wouldn't run the normal cycle on a larger load of heavy cottons or with sheets, towels etc, the rinse doesn't cut it. I find that it works fine for a small or medium load of T-shirts, socks and such.

For the heavier loads I like to use the casual cycle, again because I don't like super long wash times. My clothes aren't normally super dirty. This does stick me with a slow speed spin but I'm fine with that. I always use the heavy duty cycle for towels or work clothes for the long wash times and high speed spin. In these cases the deep agitated rinse is necessary.

I don't see the need to complain about the new generation of appliances when they are giving you more flexibility. Most of them on the market right now give you the option for the deep rinse. Those who don't like them have plenty of used or reconditioned machines to choose from.


Post# 913469 , Reply# 24   1/1/2017 at 11:52 (2,642 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        
Normal Cycle

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I used it twice on my 5 year old Miele 4842.

After programming it for WaterPlus, I use the Extra White, Custom (Make your own program), Handwash, and Express.

I also never ever use the maximum extraction speed. I think High (1,000) is plenty. Maximum Speed (1,200) just wrinkled items too much. And only load the cylinder 3/4 full. I get very nice results plus good rinsing.


Post# 913500 , Reply# 25   1/1/2017 at 14:36 (2,642 days old) by washerdude (Canada )        
My thoughts

We still use "Normal" on our front loader about 80-90%. Normal for front loaders IMO is still fine. The spray rinse on HE top loaders is what really hindered my decision to avoid buying another top load.

A "Normal" cycle on my duet takes around 36-45 minutes (timed) which includes a proper softener rinse, one that actually adds drama as many have said. Something that really bugs me is that on HE top loaders a typical cycle can be 36 minutes WITHOUT a proper rinse, but upon selecting a deep rinse or fabric softener option, the cycle times budge well over into an hour. An hour per load? I think that crosses the line even for me. An hour long cycle is what I expect for a large load in a heavy duty cycle not your typical everyday load.

Back to the spray rinse however, I can't see how in any way this is okay for people with sensitive skin. It's almost funny to see how the rinses went from full tub, to 1/4 tub and now to a spray rinse over the years. One thing I would try though if I was one of the manufacturers would be to make a disguised normal cycle and label colors or something of that nature. That cycle could use more water and help to cut down times at the same time, maybe even incorporate a spray rinse after the final rinse.

Correct me if I'm wrong though, but doesn't the model WTW4815 give a proper rinse as opposed to a spray rinse? I noticed your model has the fabric softener cup in the agitator but no option for "fabric softener."


Post# 913501 , Reply# 26   1/1/2017 at 14:52 (2,642 days old) by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.)        

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Yes the WTW4815 and the MVWC415 both have deep rinses. I have never used the 2nd rinse option on my MVWC415 and the clothes are always well rinsed. BTW the longest time I have clocked for a load was 60 mins using the Powerwash cycle, heavy soil level, hot water and presoak option. Most loads take 45 to 50 mins, which in my opinion is acceptable. My LG FL used to take a min. of 80 mins and most loads took at least 90 to 120 mins., too long in my opinion.
Eddie




This post was last edited 01/01/2017 at 17:45
Post# 913596 , Reply# 27   1/2/2017 at 09:03 (2,641 days old) by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)        
I RARELY use normal in

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my duet unless it's something really not that dirty. It is only 40 minutes long by default with 2 rinses. It's not that horrible of a cycle and uses just as much water if not more than the other cycles.

I usually use heavy duty and more soil and extra rinse - or whitest whites with more soil. Once in a while sanitary.

but looking at some of these wash times of the more modern FL washers I have to wonder why the wash times on my Duet aren't nearly as long.

For example. The longest possible time for heavy duty is 1:10. It defaults to 50 min, but by the time I chose extra rinse and more soil, it's at 1:10 - Same with whitest whites. Sanitary's max length with more soil and extra rinse is 2:30


Post# 913601 , Reply# 28   1/2/2017 at 09:56 (2,641 days old) by joeypete (Concord, NH)        

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I've used "Normal" a few time on my new Maytag and the load came out fine. On my washer you can select any water temp you want on that cycle but you can only use higher spin speeds. I'm not sure how it regulates the temp.... But honestly this machine has so many specialized cycles, the Normal cycle is bound to not get used, unless by a novice haha.

Post# 913606 , Reply# 29   1/2/2017 at 11:19 (2,641 days old) by Wishwash (Indiana)        

I have noticed that the normal cycle on my VMW dumbs down the hot setting, where heavy duty uses constant hot water. I'm fine with that - the only time I need the super hot water is on towels or whites when I also want the deep rinse. There's no need to shrink my colors.

Post# 1200354 , Reply# 30   2/27/2024 at 18:37 by GELaundry4ever (Nacogdoches, TX, USA)        
late to the party

But the normal cycle does just fine as long as I use heavy soil. At my parents' houses, this is the cycle I use for everyday loads of various soil levels.

Post# 1200426 , Reply# 31   2/28/2024 at 12:43 by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor, Maine)        

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These new machines are way too complicated. I will keep the simplicity of my 40 year old Maytags. Regular, Delicate and P Press. I select the load level and temp. I do not want a machine deciding what it thinks is best for me.

Post# 1200444 , Reply# 32   2/28/2024 at 15:19 by GELaundry4ever (Nacogdoches, TX, USA)        
simple

I agree. Simple is better. I am so sick and tired of these touch screens.

Post# 1201914 , Reply# 33   3/20/2024 at 17:06 by anthony (uk)        
no auto here

anthony's profile picture
i use a twin tub or a wringer washer .i decide how much water it uses and how hot it is .I control everything not some jumped up government

Post# 1201944 , Reply# 34   3/20/2024 at 23:41 by tolivac (greenville nc)        

YES!!!!!

Post# 1202049 , Reply# 35   3/21/2024 at 21:26 by PinkPower4 (USA)        
Normal is useful on MTmvwp575gw and especially SQ TC5...

On the Maytag mvwp575gw that has been installed per instructions, the 7-minute normal cycle is good for smaller loads of quick washes and lightly soiled everyday wear. Lots of good agitation moves the clothes down and through the water effectively. The "hot" setting for normal eco ONLY is luke warm. The deep water cycles all have tap hot. Surprisingly the spray rinse works well. You can literally wash and dry a load in about an hour especially if you use a Ninja or Panda spinner. If you want a full tub rinse, just run the normal eco again. The wash action is too rough for delicates, not long enough for or hot enough for whites (when installed per instructions). Note: I have my MT575 hooked up with a Y-hose running to cold only and control the temp through the faucets, so I have tap hot for that cycle too. It means I have to remember to set it back to cold once the wash cycle fill is complete. I can do a manual presoak by pausing the cycle, which can reduce the actual wash cycle time needed for some loads I do. I would definitely opt for the newer model with more water level control over the older model I have. I've owned this for almost six years now and have been very happy with it.

The SQ TC5's "normal" can be a super cycle! Just select normal and heavy. The water temp with heavy is whatever you set it at including tap hot. It's extra long because it includes a presoak. I use Persil stain fighter, oxi-clean, and a bit of Dawn. Whites come out clean and bright. With whites, I will run another normal cycle and add Lysol sanitizer. I really like the normal super cycle and that I can do smaller loads with less water. The suspension is better than the MT. It really does everything quite well from handwash to heavy.

My clothes seem to be lasting longer using Persil stain fighter, oxi-clean, and a bit of Dawn instead of bleach. Bleach seems to weaken the fabric. I still use it for some things though. Not only does the spin dryer get out excess residue left behind, but it allows me to dry at a lower temperature for a shorter period of time. Elastics last longer.

With that said, I would much rather have my old Whirlpool set that I owned in the 90s with the mechanical controls. It had a dual-action agitator, filled with water, and had tap hot. I could select the right amount of water for any load needed. I end up wasting water with the eco models.


Post# 1202050 , Reply# 36   3/21/2024 at 21:28 by GELaundry4ever (Nacogdoches, TX, USA)        
no deep rinse

I hate it! No deep rinse, no go!

Post# 1202056 , Reply# 37   3/21/2024 at 21:50 by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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Jerome, a deep rinse on a Normal cycle that normally runs a shower rinse can usually/possibly be had by selecting the Softener option or perhaps Extra Rinse if either or both options are offered.  AquaSmart does that, and also changes to a conventional wash (although at reduced temperature) if the Bleach option is selected.


Post# 1202073 , Reply# 38   3/22/2024 at 00:09 by chetlaham (United States)        

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Tim, I agree. I've only ever needed 4 cycles doing laundry: Normal, Casual, Handwash, and on occasion Prewash/soak. I select the temps and water level.

 

 

Permanent press (fast/slow) doesn't count as casual (slow/fast) for me, my machine doesn't have a casual cycle, so I have to improvise but other than that I can't think of why I would need more cycles or having the machine dictate fill, temps, time, cycle, ect. AWN542 could make a casual cycle with the user offered speed combo switch however after reading about timer problems (start winding not engaging) in the AWN542s I decided to get a less featured model with fewer timer increments that didn't have the same issue. Minus the lack of a slow/fast cycle in place of permanent press (which could be easily accomplished in the timer),  I have not looked back nor have I ever needed any more options, features, or cycles.


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Post# 1202089 , Reply# 39   3/22/2024 at 12:10 by RyneR1988 (Indianapolis)        

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It's funny that this thread came back up.

The washer I was talking about in the original post, a basic Whirlpool top loader WTW4816FW, died in 2022 due to what I now believe was a failed mode shifter as it was stuck between drain and spin. I have since learned that issue could have been fixed relatively cheaply, but the appliance tech over the phone told me it was the gearcase and not worth repairing. Lesson learned: Always have the appliance techs come to your house to diagnose and if they won't, find another repair tech that will.

After two used washers that didn't quite work out due to various issues, I now have the new version of the original machine in this post, which is the updated WTW4816FW3. I still don't use the normal cycle much, but I now understand better what it's mostly for, which is smaller loads of everyday clothes. It doesn't work very well for anything above a half load or so because the updated version of this washer seems to use a lower water level on normal than in any other cycle. I feel like full loads get bunched up in the bottom part of the tub and get thrashed by the lower agitator fins -- not much actual movement going on that I can perceive, just a lot of thrashing back and forth. So for full loads, which is what I normally do, I tend to use the heavy duty cycle on auto sense which seems to provide enough water for the clothes to move around effectively without resorting to the deep fill option. I do occasionally use the deep fill for really big loads of towels though. Also, a really big load in this machine isn't quite what, say, an old direct drive Whirlpool or Kenmore can handle. I can fill loosely to the top row of holes but one really shouldn't overload these machines at all because I don't think the gearbox can handle the strain.

Overall though I'm pleased with my washer. It does everything I need with little attitude, which I appreciate, and the controls are simple knobs, great for this blind guy not wanting to over-think about workarounds for touch screen controls. I still feel the normal cycle doesn't work well except in some cases, but it really is a great basic washer. I thought about getting the new Maytag commercial PinkPower mentioned above, but it was a bit out of my price range and the machine I have now performs quite similarly to it, although admittedly without the heavy-duty components in the Maytag.

Ryne


Post# 1202094 , Reply# 40   3/22/2024 at 12:46 by GELaundry4ever (Nacogdoches, TX, USA)        
normal cycle

I can use the normal cycle only if I can use the softener option if available, which I'd use anyway. I like normal cycles to be a fast/fast combination.

Post# 1202101 , Reply# 41   3/22/2024 at 14:19 by chetlaham (United States)        

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Jerome, you'll love my Speed Queen AWN412, it is fast/fast on the regular cycle. None of that slow first drain nonsense. Best machine I've ever used outside of a DC, honestly I like it better than those overrated DDs. 


Post# 1202102 , Reply# 42   3/22/2024 at 15:00 by Maytag85 (Sean A806)        

maytag85's profile picture
I think a better solution would be to have the people who work in the government have these machines for awhile, if they don’t like them, then so do we.

Post# 1202103 , Reply# 43   3/22/2024 at 15:27 by Pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)        
i wonder how the goverment would react with this washer?

pierreandreply4's profile picture
I wonder how the governments today would react with this washer, that's 1 cold water fill only especially when set to warm or hot tell you after each 30 wash to clean washer that's suppose to use tap hot water for cleaning cycle with afresh but use only cold water?

I ca say as a consumer and owning this Maytag washer since 2021 that did this once fix it self in 2022 but doing it again makes me angry and if my mom would of known that Maytag are now made by whirlpool pretty certain if she would of listen when we purchuse or new daily driver set back in 2021 we would be today with a huebsch speed queen set tr 7 or tc 5 washer dryer set model in pic mvw 6230hw


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Post# 1202170 , Reply# 44   3/23/2024 at 16:36 by Ragnboneman (Ontario)        

My wife had a set of old whirlpool washer dryer we got from her parents.
They did a decent job and ran for years until timer problems and then an oil leak caused me to think we needed a new set.

First purchased a set of High efficiency GE front loader and dryer.
The front loader ran about 5 years before developing a bearing issue and we ran it to destruction in about 4 months .
I was disappointed but felt the machines did a decent job, they did save a lot of water and I thought that was important.
Just did not last.
I did not like the fact I could not do anything to alter the wash cycles.

Next washer was Whirlpool Glass lid and wash plate.
Wife seemed to think the huge tub was a good idea.
I felt the wash was not very good.
Bearing failure after three years, I was pretty disappointed...
It was an expensive machine but it did not wash well and I was not going to put money into it

Current washer is cheapest unit whirlpool makes a Maytag ????
Its nearly identical to the Maytag MVWC415EW previously mentioned.
First break down was at 1 year exactly one week before warranty ended so it was covered.

I looked into it at this point and discovered just how cheap this machine is
Here is a link to a youtube video to give you a better idea of exactly what is under the current generation of WP washers.





There is a lot to like about this machine.
I do kid of like the tub suspension, but corners were cut.
I wonder what could have been done with a little more effort to actually dampen an unbalanced load
Next thing to look at is the splutch.
This is a really cheap thing that locks the tub to the drive motor and also contains an encoder to keep track of drum speed and position.
The trany itself is really cheap and completely non serviceable.
Motor is a normal split phase with a Chinese made oil cap .
Controls are completely electronic.
Not well made from reports I read they tend to fry relays.

That said there is a lot that could have been done to make a great washer but all the corners were cut.


All that said I don;t think this had to be a bad washer it could have been a decent reliable washer,
The agitator works pretty well all things consider.
But I know it won;t last and parts are not well made or inexpensive

What I really want is a quality replacement parts and a measure of control over the wash cycles and water levels just like the old set we had.
Maybe that will be easy to get at some point, I hope so at any rate.

TO that end I am post a link to Aliepxress.
I went looking for the Chinese parts supplier that Whilrpool uses to provide these boards and parts.
I found all kinds of aftermarket parts that in all honestly do not fit my needs.
But they give me hope that one day I can order a 20 dollar Chinese board with enough buttons and maybe a touch screen that will allow full control over all washer functions

SO you can hope..
www.aliexpress.com/w/whol...

A user customized washing machine controller that is easy to program wash cycles and provide you with trouble shooting options could be had for 100 bucks or less
I know what can be done.
Off the shelf Chinese parts with open source software.
I think its just a matter of time..


Post# 1202180 , Reply# 45   3/23/2024 at 20:22 by GELaundry4ever (Nacogdoches, TX, USA)        
chetlaham...

That's how the normal cycle should be. I'm sick and tired of that low speed spin after wash nonsense too. I didn't say permanent press. I said normal! And I am sick and tired of the early spray rinse too!

Post# 1202200 , Reply# 46   3/24/2024 at 10:58 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Slower spin after wash cycle

combo52's profile picture
Since the great majority of laundry loads contain clothing, this is really appropriate, front loading washers don’t go into a full 1200 RPM spin after the wash cycle either.

This really doesn’t make a bit of difference no testing has ever revealed a problem with using a little bit slower, spin speed after the wash before rinsing. Likewise, I’ve never had a customer complain about this either.

A significant laundry problem that is not talked about here often is that you really should not rinse all the detergent out of clothing unless you have perfectly soft water which most people don’t., Leaving some detergent behind, keeps the clothes softer it protects the machine from mineral buildup, and it makes the clothes get cleaner the next time they’re washed after they’ve been worn.

John



Post# 1202234 , Reply# 47   3/24/2024 at 21:51 by chetlaham (United States)        

chetlaham's profile picture

Jerome, get yourself an older Speed Queen, at least the control panel- it can be transplanted on a new one. Though the early spray rinse is present on most models... I think the AWN542 is the only one where its delayed sufficiently.


Post# 1202292 , Reply# 48   3/26/2024 at 11:10 by lakewebsterkid (Dayton, Ohio)        
Slow interim spin

I don’t agree. The differences between a slow interim spin and higher interim spin are larger than one would think. Rinsing is not nearly as good. This is the exact reason why I do not use TurboWash/AccelaWash on my Kenmore. The Normal cycle without TurboWash will run miles around the rinsing performed by a TurboWash cycle. Though, you should expect two rinses to perform better than one deep rinse with spray rinses. You can see similar results using either Bulky or Bedding cycles that use a higher water level, yet low interim spin speeds. Rinsing is very poor. Some of this very well could be related to detergent dosing, water quality, and soil level of clothing.

Post# 1202295 , Reply# 49   3/26/2024 at 12:35 by Mrlaundry1011 (South Wales, UK)        

In the UK it’s normal for machines to do at least 800rpm interim spins in between wash & rinse here on cotton, most machines do 1000rpm but machines like Fisher&Paykel, Bosch & Miele or LG do higher (1100rpm/1200rpm/1400rpm respectively). Mixed cycles usually do 1000rpm and synthetics (think it’s perm press in the US) usually do 1000/1200rpm

Post# 1202317 , Reply# 50   3/26/2024 at 18:29 by chetlaham (United States)        

chetlaham's profile picture

Its both ironic and funny- John mentioned that he would in part never have a Speed Queen top load washer in his top 10 washer pick in part because of poor rinsing. Now john is saying incomplete rinsing is a beneficial thing. Facts keep changing based on the thread topic. 

 

 

 


Post# 1202334 , Reply# 51   3/27/2024 at 06:30 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        

combo52's profile picture
Hi Chet, I think you need to find that quote. I did say I would never have a Speed Queen top loader in my personal laundry room and that’s still true but it had nothing to do with rinsing, It’s just a waste of water. I wouldn’t buy any top load washer today for my personal use period.

And I’ve never been a real anal nut about over rinsing because we have seven grains of hardness here if you rinse too much I’ve seen what it does I have customers that rinse again and again until there isn’t a single bubble left and they get this calcium buildup in the outer tub and end up ruining the seals in their washers.

John


Post# 1202366 , Reply# 52   3/27/2024 at 17:46 by me (Essex, UK)        

I can't stand detergent residue left in my clothing, it's uncomfortable and brings me out in rashes when I sweat.

I've always used the extra rinses button on every washing machine, I've owned or used since reducing water usage and the extra rinses button became a thing in the UK, otherwise they don't rinse thoroughly enough.

The water is pretty hard in east anglia, 340mg/l, which is apparently 20 - 21 grains per US gallon. I have to descale my current machine, usually about once a year otherwise the scale apparently creates hot spots on the element causing it to blow, with older machine which had hot fill it wasn't so much of a problem.


Post# 1202383 , Reply# 53   3/28/2024 at 04:46 by DaveAMKrayoGuy (Oak Park, MI)        

daveamkrayoguy's profile picture
Well my Normal on my literal multi-cycle washing machine I'd never noticed or have had to bear any comparison of what was the only cycle on my timer if two, the other being Permanent Press of my old machine, so to me, nothing to really say...



-- Dave



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