Thread Number: 68592  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
1978 GE automatic washer
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Post# 913522   1/1/2017 at 17:46 (2,642 days old) by Floyde (Los Angeles, CA)        

I have a 78 GE washer. I got some socks for Christmas and notice just in a week with a few washing they are showing lots of wear.

I felt the agitator and its smooth for an almost 40 year
Old machine.

Are these really rough
On items? Any hints also one
Sock is missing and I don't
Think it could have got behind the plastic guard.

I guess this is the mystery of the socks!

Happy New Year 🎊


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Post# 913548 , Reply# 1   1/1/2017 at 21:32 (2,642 days old) by appnut (TX)        

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These are very aggressive washers, but not as bad as Direct Drive Whirlpool products (aka shredmores). 


Post# 913557 , Reply# 2   1/2/2017 at 01:17 (2,642 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)        

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What fabric are these socks made of?

Post# 913565 , Reply# 3   1/2/2017 at 02:26 (2,642 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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I was wondering the same thing. It appears the wear is occurring only in certain areas.

Post# 913567 , Reply# 4   1/2/2017 at 03:40 (2,642 days old) by brucelucenta ()        

Top load washer = wear & pilling on clothing As far as the sock, it could have gone over the top of the tub and got pumped right down the drain.

Post# 913577 , Reply# 5   1/2/2017 at 05:39 (2,642 days old) by chetlaham (United States)        

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This is a good washer that will last you for some time if taken care of. I personally would go for a ramp agitator as flat vanes are a no-no in my book, but ultimately its up to your personal preferences. You could use low speed though if you plan on keeping the straight vane agitator, but verify that the low speed still works. I've seen a lot of 2 speed clutches with the sifter broken off.

As for the sock it could be anything. Sometimes we are already missing one when we toss in a dozen pairs on to realize it when sorting.


Post# 913588 , Reply# 6   1/2/2017 at 08:17 (2,641 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
GE FF Washer And Socks

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First the washer did not eat the sock, the clearances are too small for a sock to go through the pump, the first sock that goes over the tub will jam the pump in the first complete cycle you run.

 

The wear in your picture is in the heal and ball of the foot area, this is NOT caused by the washer but rather from normal wear and tear, if you are unhappy about this return the socks to place of purchase.


Post# 913591 , Reply# 7   1/2/2017 at 08:30 (2,641 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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Post# 913642 , Reply# 8   1/2/2017 at 14:29 (2,641 days old) by Floyde (Los Angeles, CA)        
Thanks everyone.

Yes, both speeds work on the washer. It was in a vacation home in Palm Springs so gently used. I love the way it cleans, maybe it is just bad socks. LOL! I have a 1979 Maytag A806 but GE cleans much better. I didn't think the sock could make it over the plastic guard. Is that what it's for in the first picture?

Post# 913654 , Reply# 9   1/2/2017 at 15:27 (2,641 days old) by rapunzel (Sydney)        

I second combo52's comment.

Post# 913693 , Reply# 10   1/2/2017 at 19:06 (2,641 days old) by ken (NYS)        
This is

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what will happen if a sock gets into the outer tub. It wont go through the pump but seize it. I bought an 83 FF a couple years ago that was advertised as wouldn't spin. This was the cause of the trouble. Removed the sock and worked fine after.

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Post# 913695 , Reply# 11   1/2/2017 at 19:10 (2,641 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
socks

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mine all look like that, it's wear inside your shoe, not your washer.

Post# 913714 , Reply# 12   1/2/2017 at 23:00 (2,641 days old) by Floyde (Los Angeles, CA)        
Would a sock???

Get over that plastic rim around the tub? What is that plastic guard for??


Post# 913717 , Reply# 13   1/2/2017 at 23:13 (2,641 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)        
rarely

akronman's profile picture
INCREDIBLY rarely. That plastic guard does its job, almost every Filter Flo goes to its grave without ever losing a sock over the edge. If the machine is running well while you're still missing a sock, then look elsewhere, not inside the machine. I have found small socks inside pant legs and shirt sleeves weeks later.

Post# 913805 , Reply# 14   1/3/2017 at 16:51 (2,640 days old) by bendixmark (Winchester Mass)        
Wear

First I would rule out sabotage.I third our esteemed Johns theory of cheap Walmart socks or cheap shoes from Walmart eating the cheap socks.i think every thing they have there sux. Is there any chance you or someone else is being a bonehead when loading this washer?When the machine is agitating there should be all water on top with everthing submerged.A GE ramp agitator would be a definite improvement far gentler. Some of these GE machines were famous for having a stingy high water level I used to adjust them all the time.That may be part of the problem.I have had socks get past that guard on service calls dozens of times. I don't get that shredmore term for the DD drives I never had that problem when I had one once again it gets down to the loading.

Post# 976159 , Reply# 15   12/30/2017 at 15:42 (2,279 days old) by oldgranola (seattle)        
have the same model/year

I also have an 1978 GE large capacity automatic washer. That agitator and tub look identical. Yes it can be hard on cloths. I usually use 'gentle cycle' setting. Also, there is a plastic bushing under the base of the agitator. Mine has become warn and cracked allowing the agitator to pop up and catch cloths on it. This is actually why I am here trying to replace or fix that bit. But the model and SN plates are long gone. The identical dryer tho is DDE7206MAL SN SD2 320398G which is 1978.

Request please: could you please let me know your exact model number and serial number? I can use that to more easily find parts.

In the mean time I intend to use JBweld to exoxy some marine tape to build up that bushing so it may hold the agitator cone better. Will also work on the warn rubber bushing on the top of the shaft...can't get the coupler off.see pic of bushing with agitator cone and agitator coupler top of shaft w/o rubber adaptor. Cheers, happy new year!


CLICK HERE TO GO TO oldgranola's LINK


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Post# 976188 , Reply# 16   12/30/2017 at 17:44 (2,279 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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this part should fit your splined tranny....part#WH01X1944

as for the agitator hub cover, you may have to search around, or ask these sellers at SenecaRiverTrading, they may have one in stock, just not listed....

these parts are most standard and interchangeable for almost the whole run....


CLICK HERE TO GO TO Yogitunes's LINK on eBay


Post# 976189 , Reply# 17   12/30/2017 at 17:45 (2,279 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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forgot to include the diagram......

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Post# 976193 , Reply# 18   12/30/2017 at 18:14 (2,279 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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also, that control panel you posted is more along the lines of 1990ish...

Post# 976319 , Reply# 19   12/31/2017 at 13:08 (2,278 days old) by oldgranola (seattle)        
thank you yogitunes!

Thank you yogitunes! I'll give that a try and use the diagram parts no's. Looks about right. Still think its 1978 as the paired dryer SN SD2 32038G means 1978 and internal looks identical to the OP:>)

Tried to 'repair' the hub cover or bushing with tape and epoxy and build up the top rubber gasket but the hub cover won't hold onto the base broken tab so again the agitator cone wouldn't stay on. So thanks again for the link and info as I probably have to replace those parts.


Post# 976321 , Reply# 20   12/31/2017 at 13:30 (2,278 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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once that rubber has broken from the shaft, there is no getting it attached again, heaven knows I have tried...

you have to pull that metal part off the shaft, clean the splines and add some grease, ready for the new one.....

that adapter is what holds the agitator locked down and in place....

inside your control panel should be a pamphlet with useful information, especially how to adjust the height of the agitator, pump out times, and other helpful hints...

keep us posted...


Post# 976324 , Reply# 21   12/31/2017 at 13:38 (2,278 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
this might be of interest to you....and only 95.00 for the set....for one they work, or used as parts machines for yours.....

this is closer to the control panel of a 1979-82...no matter what, the base units have never changed....

this unit is standard capacity....


CLICK HERE TO GO TO Yogitunes's LINK on Seattle Craigslist


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Post# 979188 , Reply# 22   1/20/2018 at 16:04 (2,258 days old) by oldgranola (seattle)        
Thanks again Yogi!

Hi Yogi,
The link to your ebay above wasn't accessible. But I did find the boot hub shown on your diagram wh8x292 on ebay from Philip0 Keene in VT still in original old dusty GE plastic bag, even says USA on it 1999. It fit. I also glued the splined rubber part of the 'adapter' using pliobond general purpose adhesive. So far 8 washes on gentle including towels. I think that boothub is critical to keeping the agitator from rocking and so prying itself off the adapter on top of the shaft. Maybe it doesn't really need that much apposing force to keep the agitator on? If it does come off again, I'll have to get a multi-arm puller of some sort such as for pulling wheel hubs off shafts. Cheers



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