Thread Number: 69334
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Advice on purchasing a Maytag A612 Washer |
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Post# 921797 , Reply# 2   2/16/2017 at 15:12 (2,597 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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I'm not sure why he would have told you the 12 series was the most reliable. They are for all intents and purposes mechanically the same as Maytag washers made since the early '70s. Perhaps there were improvements in materials used in the transmissions, such as seals, etc., or timers, or other components like solenoids, hoses/fittings, but the Maytag experts here will likely express their opinions soon enough.
$50 is a good price if the machine is in proper working order. |
Post# 921865 , Reply# 3   2/16/2017 at 21:15 (2,597 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Were one of the better ones to get. When checking out a used one to buy check for
Oil leaks under the base plate
Dampers pads that are loose or black dust around the damper assembly
Machines with heavy mineral or black slimy build-ups have led a tougher life in the top of the tub and under the agitator, sometimes if they did not clean the agitator mounted lint filter you can get a good idea from that.
And of coarse heavy rust or other damage to the machine.
To get a washer like this ready for what you want it to do I would
Lubricate the motor rollers and damper pads.
Check the belts and replace if nessassary
Replace the inlet air-gap rubber and the inlet water valve.
Check and probably replace the hose from the outer tub to the pump and the bleach dispenser hose if your model has one IF THEY show any signs of getting hard.
All this said the best washer for the situation you describe would be a Whirlpool built Direct Drive washer built between the late 80s-around 2004. Whirlpool washers in this time period are not only more reliable, easier to fix but also do a much better job overall on you laundry, especially when you look ahead 10-20 years, a lot of parts for these MTs are already NLA and the WP DD washers are STILL in production.
If you get a WP machine in this time period I would look for any signs of oil leaks, and check the drive coupling between the motor and transmission and probably replace the inlet valve if it is on the older side of the time range I listed. |
Post# 929409 , Reply# 5   3/28/2017 at 12:19 (2,557 days old) by DangerBoy (Calgary, Alberta, Canada)   |   | |
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Anybody?? |
Post# 929466 , Reply# 7   3/28/2017 at 19:19 (2,557 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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The damper pads and motor slides can be lucubrated with any lubricant that is safe for polyester type plastic, which is about any lubricant including light motor oil.
If the belts look good save your money, you will be able to get belts for these washers for the next 30 years.
Yes replace the inlet valve and inlet hoses and any other internal hoses that are getting stiff-hard.
You can bypass the inlet air-gap rubber thing.
Remember replacing parts that are in good condition with new parts can make the washer worse, often new replacement parts are not as good as the orignal parts, and tearing apart a machine to install them may do more harm than good unless you are a real expert on these washers.
John L. |
Post# 929508 , Reply# 8   3/29/2017 at 02:37 (2,557 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)   |   | |
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Belt dressing? I've heard of it but what is it and isn't that more for cars? The drive belt on a Maytag is cloth covered. Would belt dressing mess that up?
I've been working on my A806 for the past few days, Replacing parts, removing parts, making adjustments; things I should have done three years ago. Guess I'll get it like I want some day....maybe. This post was last edited 03/29/2017 at 03:19 |
Post# 929517 , Reply# 9   3/29/2017 at 06:33 (2,556 days old) by Gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)   |   | |
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I've used automotive type belt-dressing spray for years with excellent results. Coincidence? |
Post# 929522 , Reply# 10   3/29/2017 at 07:21 (2,556 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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