Thread Number: 69595  /  Tag: Wringer Washers
Maytag E2L Pulley Shaft Seal
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Post# 924935   3/4/2017 at 15:37 by thesnail (PA)        

Hello, everyone!

I have a 1954 Maytag E2L that occasionally drips oil from the pulley shaft.
I've bought the replacement seal, but before I replace it, I have a question.

Since this seal is keeping oil in the power unit, won't the oil just pour out when I remove the old seal? If so, would tipping the unit on it's front prevent this?

I've never done this before, so any advice is greatly appreciated.

Thank You!

Post# 925263 , Reply# 1   3/6/2017 at 09:12 by dermacie (my forever home (Glenshaw, PA))        

dermacie's profile picture
I have never done this kind of repair but their are several people who can help.

Post# 925468 , Reply# 2   3/7/2017 at 10:43 by Stan (Napa CA)        
Check Larrys thread

stan's profile picture
Search "Moving a Maytag E"
Long thread but worth the read, and lots of pics of the part envoved, and the how to.

Post# 925493 , Reply# 3   3/7/2017 at 13:29 by thesnail (PA)        

I've read that thread, but Larry replaced that seal with the transmission removed from the washer.

If possible, I'd like to change the seal without removing the transmission.
Has anyone done this? Is it even possible?

When I bought the seal, I asked Phil if this was possible, and he said that oil won't leak when the seal is removed, but he never answered whether it was possible to do without removing the transmission.

The most I've done on one of these is replace the drain hose and power cord, so a complete transmission rebuild is a bit over my head!

Post# 925617 , Reply# 4   3/8/2017 at 01:32 by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
Look through the service manual, as I forgotton..
I'll get back to you. Hopefully Larry or Geoff will stop by on this question

Post# 925796 , Reply# 5   3/9/2017 at 00:20 by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
You show a pic off the leak? If it's leaking from the power unit and that's the seal you've ordered and have to replace, then I don't see a way to do it without disassembly. Tub removal ect. But let's see what's leaking and where, and what your calling a pulley shaft leak?

Post# 925829 , Reply# 6   3/9/2017 at 10:12 by thesnail (PA)        

Attached is a photo of the leak.
The seal that I have is part # 15339, on page 3-22 of the service manual.

I'm thinking that, since the seal and the washers are installed from the outside of the power unit, that they might be removable without removing the power unit from the washer.

The instructions that Phil provided (in description) make me think that removal isn't necessary. (I did ask Phil, but all he said was that oil wouldn't leak once I remove the 5 pieces, don't know if he meant with the power unit removed or attached)

Additionally, on page 4-3 of the service manual, it says to remove and disassemble the power unit for a shifter seal leak, but for a worm seal leak to just remove the pulley and replace the seal.

Either way, if the unit is tipped on it's front, couldn't the seal be changed without oil leakage?

  View Full Size
Post# 925928 , Reply# 7   3/10/2017 at 01:20 by Stan (Napa CA)        
Not removing the p.u makes sense

stan's profile picture
Now that I see it, and see what ur trying to fix.
Is it leaking bad? Or making noise?
Think you could do it with out removal! If ur worried, call Phil again to make sure.
Keep me posted on this

Post# 925987 , Reply# 8   3/10/2017 at 09:24 by thesnail (PA)        

She doesn't make noises, but a dime-sized drop of oil ends up on the floor every week if I don't wipe it off. Not exactly a flood, but enough to be concerning.

I will double-check with Phil before doing anything.

Thank you for your help.

I will definitely keep you updated!

Post# 926014 , Reply# 9   3/10/2017 at 12:31 by Stan (Napa CA)        
Take pics

stan's profile picture
If u can when u make the repair.
Don't think anyone here has shown that replacement before.

Post# 926246 , Reply# 10   3/11/2017 at 15:10 by thesnail (PA)        

I'm probably not going to have time to work on it until next weekend.
I will certainly take pictures of the repair.

Post# 926269 , Reply# 11   3/11/2017 at 18:29 by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
Be waiting to see!

Post# 926748 , Reply# 12   3/14/2017 at 08:46 by thesnail (PA)        
Good News!!

Phil said that the seal can be replaced with the power unit attached to the washer.

Post# 927376 , Reply# 13   3/17/2017 at 00:07 by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
News for sure!
Let us know when u make the repair, and how it goes.

Post# 927698 , Reply# 14   3/18/2017 at 22:03 by thesnail (PA)        
Repair is done!!!

The new seal is installed!

I took pictures of the various steps, they are below in their own posts.

Larry's suggestion of using the square end of a socket wrench extension on the square pulley bolt worked great.

I used a pulley/flywheel puller to remove the pulley, as it was stuck to the shaft (probably never removed in its 63 years of existence).

After the clip was removed, the first washer and the spring washer practically fell off.

The second washer, however, was stuck to the seal. Gently tapping at it with a screwdriver and small mallet (one of those craft mallets that can barely drive a nail, let alone damage metal) loosened it.

The old seal was pried out using two small screwdrivers, one on one side, one on the other to bend it enough to grab it.

There is a washer behind the seal. Leave it in.

The unit will not leak oil with the seal removed.

The new seal (part number 15339-DS, what Phil has on eBay) is thicker than the original.
In fact, it replaces the clip, the first washer, the spring washer, and the second washer.

None of the parts that are removed are put back, except the pulley, belt, and the new seal.

Before installing the new seal, I wiped the oil and rubber fragments out of the power unit.

The new seal fits tightly in the power unit. You will not be able to install it completely by hand.

To install it, apply pressure with a deep socket that fits over the worm shaft, and lines up with the seal. I gently tapped the socket with the mallet until it was firmly seated.

When the seal will go no further (out-facing side should be a few mm into the power unit), clean and lubricate the worm shaft and pulley (makes it easier to remove the pulley in the future)

Replace the pulley and belt.

You are done. Enjoy your newly repaired Maytag!

Post# 927703 , Reply# 15   3/18/2017 at 22:42 by thesnail (PA)        

1: Power Unit with pulley removed.
2: Clip, washer #1, spring washer, and washer #2 removed.
3: Old Seal removed.
4: Clip, washer #1, spring washer, washer #2, and old seal.
5: Old Seal.
6: New Seal.
7: New Seal installed.

  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 7         View Full Size
Post# 927731 , Reply# 16   3/19/2017 at 04:09 by Stan (Napa CA)        
Looks great

stan's profile picture
Good job!
I'm surprised more of the Maytag guys didn't stop by on this thread?
Thanks for posting this repair, and for the pics. It will help out someone in the future.

Post# 927777 , Reply# 17   3/19/2017 at 16:25 by thesnail (PA)        
First load with the new seal!

I just couldn't resist taking that picture!

With the old seal, there would be a drop of oil hanging off the power unit after every load.
Now, it's completely dry!

I certainly hope someone will find this thread helpful. I know I sure would've!

To anyone that is hesitating about replacing this seal, go ahead and do it! It took about 4.5 hours to do, and wasn't all that bad.
Much easier than I thought it would be. Although I do have a bit of a backache from crawling underneath!

Stan, thank you for following this thread.

Post# 927826 , Reply# 18   3/19/2017 at 22:16 by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
And I must have the same washer! Mines 1954.
Is u did the work from under? You didn't tip on its front ?

  View Full Size
Post# 928019 , Reply# 19   3/20/2017 at 22:22 by thesnail (PA)        

Mine is indeed from 1954. The original owner wrote the date of purchase on the cover of the owner's manual. That date is 7/4/54.

Yes, I did the work with the unit upright.
Phil said it wouldn't leak during surgery, and he was right.
I figured that there was more potential for damage trying to lay it down and pick it up again, than there was from working on it from underneath.

Post# 928025 , Reply# 20   3/20/2017 at 22:50 by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
Was made July of that year too!
Their sisters. LOL

Post# 928359 , Reply# 21   3/22/2017 at 20:41 by thesnail (PA)        

A coincidence!

I always preferred the colors of the early '50s machines. The red wringer release, agitator, and agitator clutch handle go so well together.

Post# 932635 , Reply# 22   4/15/2017 at 22:44 by shankstr (St. Louis, Missouri)        
Late to the party

Snail, glad you figured it out. The reason you wouldn't want to lay it down is because there is a breather vent hole on the top of the cross shaft that goes from the agitator to the wringer.If you run your finger along the top you will feel the hole. 60 year old gear lube will come oozing out and you will have a mess you would rather avoid. Not to mention the only way to add gear oil to these machine is by opening the transmission. No fill tube or way to check the level. If you ever have to "pull" the transmission it's very easy to do and not complicated but messy. Only a couple of gears. You will need a special gulmite wrench which Phil has for sale or at least he used to to remove the screws in the bottom of the tub and some new gaskets.

I have 2 E2LP's that I have restored but have since moved on to vintage garden tractors :)

Post# 932637 , Reply# 23   4/15/2017 at 22:48 by shankstr (St. Louis, Missouri)        


Cross shaft goes from the transmission to wringer shaft.
Sorry, It's been a couple years since I've had to work on one and going off memory. :)

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