Thread Number: 70289  /  Tag: Modern Dryers
Whirlpool compact heatpump dryers
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Post# 932001   4/12/2017 at 12:39 (2,564 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

Whirlpool apparently launched 2 compact heatpump dryers in the US.

www.whirlpool.com/laundry...

www.whirlpool.com/laundry/dryers...


If anyone ever has to get a compact laundry setup, I'd highly recomend these. While still small and slow, they are far gentler then normal condenser units and usually dry a little bit more evenly.

On that note, they actually updated their entire compact lineup for laundry, makeing it in line with the current EU styling.





Post# 932013 , Reply# 1   4/12/2017 at 14:05 (2,564 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)        
Surprised

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I'm surprised that Maytag doesn't have a full sized heat pump dryer in their line up.

Malcolm


Post# 932050 , Reply# 2   4/12/2017 at 17:29 (2,563 days old) by appnut (TX)        

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I noticed on their web site on Saturday.  First thing I noticed was the newly designed control panel.  I think it's called guided control panel.  I have been wondering when they'd update their frontloaders to reflect the "How to wash" control panel on their TOL TLer. 


Post# 932116 , Reply# 3   4/12/2017 at 23:19 (2,563 days old) by warmsecondrinse (Fort Lee, NJ)        

I see just one slight problem for those in older buildings. The 240/208v requirement. In many older buildings, especially in the northeast only 120v is available and venting is not.

It's a problem.

Jim


Post# 932121 , Reply# 4   4/13/2017 at 00:54 (2,563 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Yes, that is correct

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But much new construction (and there is *PLENTY* of it ) has the proper electrical requirements here in NYC. In fact many new rental or condo units have washing machines and dryers already installed, and often one or both run on 208v-240v power.

It is just the nature of the beast, especially when much new construction is rehabbing former office buildings and or commercial space into apartments. There are only a certain number of outside facing walls then, and thus you aren't going to be able to vent outdoors for everyone's dryer. Yet having a washing machine and dryer has become nearly standard requirement for those seeking to rent or buy in NYC, especially Manhattan or downtown Brooklyn. Were I paying a few to several million for an apartment you can bet it better have laundry equipment either installed or at least be able to accommodate with proper water, drain and electric connections.

Up until now many of these dryers are usually condenser. One has written before about how some swear by such units here, or swear at them. It remains to be seen how these heat pump dryers will be received.

The other trend here in NYC is that much new construction is going towards all electric apartments. That is induction for range top cooking, electric oven and or microwave along with some sort of PTAC for heating or cooling. For the latter buildings are also going with central AC and heating of various methods as well, but steam heating, once so common in NYC seems to be less and less installed in new construction.

www.nytimes.com/2011/01/02/reales...

www.apartments.com/45-st-marks-p...

Going with all electric apartments allows landlords or property owners to skip the costs of installing gas lines. It also allows them in case of rentals not to have to worry about either installing individual meters or having gas included with the apartment lease.

Of course the boom in "compact" (ok, European standard sized) front loading washing machines along with other equally similar top loaders means more and more New Yorkers are sneaking laundry equipment into their apartments, lease or building be darned. Those Whirlpool/Kenmore compact dryers that have been on sale for what seems like forever are nearly everywhere.


Post# 932130 , Reply# 5   4/13/2017 at 03:43 (2,563 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)        

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Flabbergasting that Whirlpool brings these on the market for 208-240 Volts. The European equivalent draws only 950 Watts.

www.whirlpool.co.uk/appliances-1/...

They could have easily made this a popular dryer for people in older buildings as Jim described. And then the rating of 30 Amps. Jaw dropping!


Post# 932135 , Reply# 6   4/13/2017 at 06:11 (2,563 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

That was one of the confusing things as well, they could run off 120V for sure. That's why I put so much hope into HP dryers for the US market.

Post# 932138 , Reply# 7   4/13/2017 at 06:43 (2,563 days old) by mrboilwash (Munich,Germany)        

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Must be the quickest cycle times ever in heat pump drying.
Until we hopefully get something similar here as well I guess I`ll stick to my old condenser.
Not so fond of the pricetag, it`s only a Whirlpool after all...


Post# 932140 , Reply# 8   4/13/2017 at 06:49 (2,563 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

I guess they just ported the design from the EU. And given this is just the MSRP, the price tag in the end I guess is about equal to the EU priceing.

Post# 932142 , Reply# 9   4/13/2017 at 07:05 (2,563 days old) by mrboilwash (Munich,Germany)        

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I might be wrong but I had the impression they`ve put in a really big and powerful heatpump if it has to be fused at 30 Amps in a 220 V circuit. Doesn`t sound like a ported design from the EU to me.

But if so, why not make it a full size dryer (by US standarts) ?


Post# 932145 , Reply# 10   4/13/2017 at 07:14 (2,563 days old) by logixx (Germany)        

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I'm surprised to see Whirlpool kept the Warm Rinse option on these.

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Post# 932146 , Reply# 11   4/13/2017 at 07:24 (2,563 days old) by warmsecondrinse (Fort Lee, NJ)        

Yes, I first noticed the all-electric trend about 15 years ago when the upstairs apartment of a friend was remodelled to be all-electric even though the building had both steam heat and gas lines. Instead of a gas stove there was a 2-burner smooth-top and a wall-mounted, larger than average microwave. I don't recall the heat.

I can see how all-electric saves cost for the building owner, both in construction and maintenance (PTAC attached to the unit's meter). Then there's the 'complexity' of the one-pipe steam system still very common in the northeast. It's 'complex' due to a general inability/refusal to understand that most are designed to run at 2-3 lbs. of pressure (not 10), that you can't level the pipes or the radiators, and that ignoring these 2 points leads to more frequent repairs and poor performance, not to mention noise from a system that's supposed to be virtually silent... but I digress.

My personal issue with all-electric stems from the fact that I've lived through too many power failures. I've learned I can handle damn near anything (including chopping wood for the wood stove for heat and hand-carrying water up 4 flights to fill the cistern in the attic) PROVIDED I've had my coffee and hot shower. Sorry a gas hot water heater and 2 gas burners are my personal requirements.

I can also see how rolling the cost of proper laundry hook-ups into the price of the re-hab would be a smart financial move on the part of the owner. I can just imagine the comments from a perspective buyer/renter: "You want me to pay HOW MUCH and I can't put in my own washer & dryer?!"

I noticed mention of putting the cost of the common washer/dryer into a jar atop the private one each time it's used. Now that I think about it, our building's units are priced rather low: $1.50/wash and 0.75 for half hour of drying. Perhaps to quiet the group who wants to change the co-op's rules?

Which brings me back to my building: Heat & a/c provided by air chillers (hot water in winter), gas stoves & ovens, NO 240v AFAIK, NO outside walls or windows in any kitchen or bathroom. Dishwashers ARE approved, hence the pro euro-sized washer contingent among the owners (I'm still renting). FYI, dehumidifiers are extremely common as one might expect due to the air-chillers. So, once I finally own my place and the washer/dryer ban is lifted, I'll be limited to: 120v and ventless......

Yes, Foraloysius & Henene4. I can't imagine how the market could possibly be too small to support just ONE 120v HP dryer model.

On the more technical side: A vented, electric dryer with resistance heat loses 3/4 of its dryer power going from 240 to 120v thanks to that pesky Inverse Square law. What is the average drop for condenser and HP dryers? Still 3/4 as a result of input drop or is is somewhat less due to mechanical differences?

Below is a link to a brief article on a 1935 PTAC

There was a rather extensive thread on the issues surrounding 21st century HVAC techs working on one-pipe steam systems designed nearly 150 years earlier. I believe it was in the fall of 2015 when I was recovering from heart surgery. If you cannot find it, let me know and I'll dig it up.

Once again, I've spent my morning on AW.ORG and have ignored my own tasks. It's now time for me to get ready for work...


CLICK HERE TO GO TO warmsecondrinse's LINK


Post# 932165 , Reply# 12   4/13/2017 at 09:11 (2,563 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)        

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IIRC normal high voltage in the USA is 240V. 240V x 30 Amps would be 7200 Watts. Because the motor needs probably around 200 Watts, we are left with 7000 Watts power for the heatpump. Now I don't know much about heatmpumps, but just assume that the heatpump delivers twice the amount of heat as it consumes. That would mean the heat in this dryer would be 14000 Watts. I think that would be a bit too much for a compact dryer. Instant scorching!

I don't think the heatpump in the American Whirlpool compacts would be very different from the European equivalent.


Post# 932169 , Reply# 13   4/13/2017 at 10:05 (2,563 days old) by Pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)        

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a type of dryer model i would not use since it would be a waste of electricety i would use a convenentinal dryer thats hook to an outside dryer vent 220 voltage

Post# 932175 , Reply# 14   4/13/2017 at 10:29 (2,563 days old) by mrboilwash (Munich,Germany)        

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I see it`s probably just a typo and the dryer might even run on a standard 120 V circuit at 950 Watts.

But who knows for sure ?
It could just as well be a bigger heat pump let`s say 2000 Watts. That would make for a comparable heat output of conventional US dryers. Then it would of course require a little more juice than the standard 15 or 20 Amps 120 V wiring can handle so this might explain why they could have opted for those possibly already existing 30 Amps 240V dryer outlets.
It`s just my silly speculation but one thing is certain: Americans don`t like endless cycle times.


Post# 932176 , Reply# 15   4/13/2017 at 10:40 (2,563 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        
Waste of energy

*laughs*

Boy, these things use less then 2kWh for loads of 18-20lbs. We have dryers here that dry loads of 18lbs with as little as 1.2-1.4kWh. With that amount of energy, you could run your full-size american electric dryer fo about 15 minutes. I highly doubt that that would be enough to dry such a load.




I think that 30A label is just the standard for the high-voltage lines in the US (never quite sure if that now is 208V, 220V or 240V).

And the reason no heatpump in heatpump dryers has more then 1kW I think is related to heatexhanger surface area. There is a verry thin balance in these systems, how much energy they can actually transfer.
These dryers don't dry as much with heat anymore, they use the super dry air they can produce. Best proof for that: These need about 30-45min to come up to normal operating temperature. But they still extract quite some water during that time.
Our Whirlpool dryer does not have one of the more advanced inverter heatpumps and towards the end of cycles, the heatpump tends to get louder. It seems as if it's cavitating because it can't condense enough of its refrigirant anymore.

I've been actually wondering for quite a while where the heat in these dryers comes from. They should put the same amount of energy into the system they take out of it, so the heat either comes from they water vapor that is taken out of the system or is waste heat of the heatpump. Or both.
I mean, these don't work like the ACs by having to seperate systmes they can move energy between. Both sides of the heatpump are in the same closed system, so where do they get the energy from they pu into the system?


Post# 932228 , Reply# 16   4/13/2017 at 17:13 (2,562 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Dryer's specs

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Call for 120/240v power at 30 amps for the 4.3 cubic foot model (compact). In other words this "compact" dryer requires the same electric dryer connections as any full sized version sold in the USA.


www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin...

Here is the Whirlpool "Duet" ventless dryer (one assumes just a standard condenser model), and it also has same power requirements:

www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin...

Blomberg also sells a "heat pump" dryer in the USA it seems, but cannot tell from the write up if it is such or just a condenser.

www.ajmadison.com/cgi-bin...

Download Whirlpool's manual here: www.ajmadison.com/ajmadis...


Post# 932235 , Reply# 17   4/13/2017 at 17:43 (2,562 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

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Only way to settle this debate regarding power draw for heaters is for someone to in person have a peep at rating plate.

If there was a remote possibility these "compact" heat pump dryers could run on 120v only power, would assume WP would have done so. It certainly would have increased their sales as far more persons in urban and other situations have access to 120v power over 208v-240v.



Post# 932236 , Reply# 18   4/13/2017 at 17:48 (2,562 days old) by logixx (Germany)        

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The Blomberg is a heat pump dryer, rated at 208-240V and 5 amps.

Specs: www.blombergappliances.com/compac...


Post# 932243 , Reply# 19   4/13/2017 at 18:26 (2,562 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Not to drift too much off topic

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But NYC landlords and developers are moving away from steam and perhaps centrally controlled heating (boilers) for a few good reasons.

First there is the chronic problem of keeping a steam heating plant in good order to prevent some tenants roasting while others complain they are "cold". Give everyone their own heating system and or ability to control and that solves one very large problem.

This winter was rather mild but our building more often than not had the steam cranked up very high. This was due to several older to elderly persons who constantly complained they were "cold", and some even filed complaints with the city about "lack of heat". When inspectors arrived they only had to walk into the over heated building to see this was nonsense, but there you are then.

One of the main reasons you are seeing less steam heating installed is the fact much new construction using glass curtain walls instead of full masonry of old. These steel and glass buildings are faster and cheaper to put up, but you cannot use steam heating as there isn't anywhere to run the pipes.

Leave us not forget one of our own who does in fact work for WP was kind enough to share his observations and comments regarding HP dryer:
www.automaticwasher.org/cgi-bin/T...


Post# 932266 , Reply# 20   4/13/2017 at 21:13 (2,562 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Back on topic

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Following is a pretty decent review along with comments on the WP heat pump dryers:

www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/blog...

Cannot find mention of it in owner's manual, but apparently it does seem that the WP dryers do allow for faster drying using a some sort of different method than heat pump. Another review stated on "quick" the dryer did a full load in about 45 minutes. That kind of speed simply cannot come from a pure condenser/heat pump drying system alone, especially one that handles large loads as the WP units. This tells one that there is some sort of resistance heating elements that can be used to crank up the heat where necessary. That would explain the 30amp requirements.

Furthermore WP like most others hailing heat pump technology makes much noise about heated or cooled air not being vented out of the home. Well there are great periods of the year when neither the heating nor air conditioning systems are running for most of the USA. Today for instance here in NYC the boilers didn't come on and we certainly didn't run the AC, this was with outdoor temps in the low 60's (F).


CLICK HERE TO GO TO Launderess's LINK


Post# 932294 , Reply# 21   4/14/2017 at 04:05 (2,562 days old) by logixx (Germany)        

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Yes, the Hybrid Care uses a conventional heating element to speed things up if necessary. The compact model does not.

Post# 932477 , Reply# 22   4/14/2017 at 23:34 (2,561 days old) by warmsecondrinse (Fort Lee, NJ)        
NYC Steam Heat

Complicating factors:

A dearth landlords/supers/etc. who know enough about steam heat to think that those who are cold might have radiator valves that are clogged and those who have too much heat might have too fast a valve on theirs. I'm sorry, but there's a serious problem going on when *I* know more about these one-pipe steam systems than the supposed experts. Pressurtrol set at 10psi in a pre-WWI 3-family house..... Seriously?

As a result of the Spanish flu epidemic (~1918) all new construction had to have heating sufficiently strong to keep living areas at 'X' temperature (65F?) with one window opened 'Y'(3?) inches with an outside temperature of 'Z'(15F?).
My exact numbers might be wrong (corrections, please!) but my point is not.

After the energy crisis hit in '73 the USA went on a binge of insulating, caulking, and replacing single glaze windows with double. Result? Oversized heating systems.


Jim


Post# 932506 , Reply# 23   4/15/2017 at 08:57 (2,561 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

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"I'm surprised to see Whirlpool kept the Warm Rinse option on these"

In some parts of the USA tap cold water can be quite cold indeed, especially during the colder months of the year. For such instances you want or need "warm" water for rinsing.

The SQ washing machines at local laundromat use a mixture of hot and cold water during the final rinse. That is hot water comes down through the fabric softener dispenser and cold on the other side. Am guessing this is to prevent FS from being a congealed mess and thus not dispense properly during cold weather.


Post# 932508 , Reply# 24   4/15/2017 at 09:11 (2,561 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
So funktioniert der Miele Wärmepumpentrockner Miele

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How the Miele heat pump dryer works:





What you notice at once is why these heat pump dryers are more maintenance intensive then the already so condenser dryers.

In a normal condenser dryer one removes the "condenser" to clean. With a heat pump dryer since the thing is mated to a refrigerant system, that is not possible. Hence there needs to be a good number of filters in place to keep the condenser clean.


Post# 932546 , Reply# 25   4/15/2017 at 14:42 (2,561 days old) by logixx (Germany)        

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True about the warm rinse - but how many current US front loaders offer this option? LG and Whirlpool in Europe have it, so I was surprised to see that Whirlpool didn't remove this feature for the Americanized version.

That Miele video is pretty old. Back then, every filter was two-layered, meaning you had to clean up to six filters (periodically). Today's dryers have reduced the number of filters.






Post# 932569 , Reply# 26   4/15/2017 at 18:02 (2,560 days old) by jerrod6 (Southeastern Pennsylvania)        

I guess for people without a natural gas option and venting, this may be considered, but I can't be sure the complexity of the machine would justify buying it.  Having natural gas I just can't see the benefit of switching to this.  

 

I looked at the users manual for the Bloomberg machine.  Cottons regular dry time is 145 minutes, Extra dry time is 155 minutes, Synthetics regular dry is 55 minutes - I can hang them on an upper floor in my house and dry them faster than this. 

 

I can dry a load of heavy towels(802 Gram)  in less than 45 minutes, a regular load of cottons in 25-30 minutes, and Synthetics in 20 minutes.  

 

How does humid air affect these machines, does it increase or decrease drying times?


Post# 932573 , Reply# 27   4/15/2017 at 18:23 (2,560 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Read the owner's manual for Miele heat pump dryer

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It only cautions not to place the thing in an area that is too warm/hot or cold.

As for being "worth it", well we must remember like other condenser dryers the answer isn't always cut and dry.

Condenser/vent-less dryers are meant to provide a solution to a problem; how to have a tumble dryer where venting does not allow. When compared to vented a condenser dryer of any sort including heat pump will be slower on average. Yes, there are tons of various "savings" supposedly coming from energy use, reduced wear upon textiles, environment, and so forth, but there you are.

Everything one has read so far on these heap pump dryers clearly says one would need to own the things for a very long time *and* do large amounts of laundry to make the them even remotely pay off. That is if you line dry most washing and only use any sort of dryer when weather is bad or need things in a hurry, then it could take ages before you've gotten your money back in whatever savings from these heat pump dryers.

www.ukwhitegoods.co.uk/help/buyin...

My AEG Oko-Lavamat can take one hour to almost three to do a load of washing. A full load of terry bath linen will dry in the AEG Oko-Lavatherm in about two hours or so (give or take). In the small Whilrpool compact same load would dry in about one and one half hours. Faster if one breaks up the load into two smaller batches.


Heat pump dryers are taking condenser drying to the next level. That is they deal with the problems of such dryers very reliant upon the air/weather conditions surrounding in order to work properly. Condenser dryers are popular in northern Europe, and they would be wouldn't they? Temps are often cool to cold if not usually damp. As anyone in a more temperate climate such s South of France or even New York City during a good part of the year can tell you, a condenser dryer just won't work when weather is very warm to hot and humid. Only way around this is to create the same northern European environment; that is turn on the AC.


Post# 932671 , Reply# 28   4/16/2017 at 02:23 (2,560 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

Where ever you can set up a fridge and it works, you can set up a heatpump dryer and it should work. Their drying system is designed to be as self contained as possible, so the only thing the surrounding could do is being to hot so the compressor it self overheats or to cold which can affect the heatpump as well.

"One would have to do a lot of laundry":
When we bought our HP dryer (which is fairly simmilar to this one, just the previous generation), we did some rough cut calculation. With our usage pattern (I think we estimated 200-250 loads a year) and a rough estimate of savings (about 2kWh per load) and our electricity rates (about 0.3€/kWh), we estimated we would save about 150€ a year.
The same dryer with normal condesing system was 399€ at that time, the heatpump 599€ or 699€, can't remeber.
So 2 years was all it takes to clear the cut there.

With higher unit prices and lower energy rates, this period can get far greater.


And on the topic of drying times: I think they just copied the EU verdions of those too, and there again we talk 18lbs loads in a 4ft³ dryer.


Post# 932692 , Reply# 29   4/16/2017 at 06:21 (2,560 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Our area is currently around

launderess's profile picture
Nineteen cents per kWh:
www.bls.gov/regions/new-y...

However your dryer usage is far greater than ours. If the Whirlpool is used every other week or two for one or maybe two loads that is saying something. As for the AEG Oko-Lavatherm it sees only a handful of action per year. Much of this is simply due to the climate/weather. NYC is simply too warm or even hot much of the year to make a condenser dryer work.

Linens and shirts are ironed so that takes them out of the equation.

Heavy and thick things like blankets while washed at home are taken round to the local launderette and bunged into their huge gas dryers. Some blankets are simply air dried over horses.


Post# 932705 , Reply# 30   4/16/2017 at 10:37 (2,560 days old) by logixx (Germany)        
Cute

logixx's profile picture
German average was 29 Euro Cents in 2016.

Post# 932739 , Reply# 31   4/16/2017 at 12:34 (2,560 days old) by warmsecondrinse (Fort Lee, NJ)        

EXACTLY: "It certainly would have increased their sales as far more persons in urban and other situations have access to 120v power over 208v-240v." AND lack venting.

My thinking is that since there're 120v combos using condenser drying available, Why are there no dryer only units available? One would think that the extra space made available by the lack of washing machinery would allow for either increased drying capacity and/or a larger drum. Either way throughput would increase.

I'm still not clear on why a 120v Heat Pump dryer is a no go, but that's MY lack of tech background, lol.

I understand the tech aspects of efficiency, cost, payoff period. HOWEVER, the market for 120v ventless dryers of ANY type are in a much different situation (as stated but not elaborated above). The relevant factors are:
- time & energy cost of having to leave the home to do laundry.
- monetary cost of driving to the laundromat and paying for the machines.
- prob some other factors that escape me at the moment.

------------

I realize that I'm probably the only person to own an Equator 3600 that actually performed as advertised (monthly cleaning aside), however I never noticed a decrease in performance due to warmer, more humid weather. OTOH, that might've been because whenever heat+humidity= >75F I had the a/c running.

Jim


Post# 932755 , Reply# 32   4/16/2017 at 14:27 (2,560 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        
Don't mix up things

First off, with condensers, you have to view the air stream that drys your laundry as seperated from your surrounding air. 2 seperared systems without mass exchange, only energy.


Your combo is a condenser using water to cool the condensing system.
Weather does not affect these.
The problem with these is a) they are slow due to low heating powers and b) because they use a water flow directly exposed to the hot air stream that is supposed to dry your load to condense water out of that exact air stream, condensing efficency is pretty bad. You basicly "dry" the air with water. More water stays in the air, you try to dry your load with more humid air.

Air cooled condenser dryers use the surrounding air to cool your condenser.
These are affected by surrounding temperatures. The hotter the air is that is used to cool the condenser, the less efficent is that condensing system. Thus, drying takes longer.
These dryers need heaters of 2kW or more to be abled to keep the temperture inside the dryer up enough to keep the condensing system efficent enough to dry laundry. And 2kW is to much for US 120V lines by my understanding.
Basicly, the bigger the temperature difference between outside and inside of the dryer, the better the drying results.

Heatpump dryers *should* work on 120V.
They are only affected by temperatures like any other appliance, most comparable, fridges.
They create the needed temperature gradient by the same method a AC unit does, only that they pump the heat they took out of the system right back into it.



Point I try to make: Traditional combo units with water cooled condensers don't work as well by design. Air cooled condensers need a "lot" of power and depend on the surrounding enviroment. Heatpumps solve all these problems, only that they are more complicated and expensive.


Post# 932972 , Reply# 33   4/17/2017 at 17:39 (2,558 days old) by warmsecondrinse (Fort Lee, NJ)        

@ Reply #32

Thanks for the explanation. You should be a tech writer.

I actually read up on the Equator quite a bit before buying it. I recall the emphasis the colder the water drawn during the dry cycle the quicker drying will be. In NYC the ground water is pretty cold year round so that helped. Another point was not to open the dryer unless necessary. IIRC, the heat lost by having the door open for 30 seconds would take a good bit longer than 30 seconds to rebuild. Therefore temp differential at the condenser lessens therefore efficiency drops therefore drying time increases... and probably by more than 30 seconds.

On a more abstract level, where on earth (literally) are condenser dryers used? If I understand your explanation correctly they'd only be effective housed in an extremely arid area with temps as low as the machinery could stand (below freezing?).

Thanks again,

Jim


Post# 932986 , Reply# 34   4/17/2017 at 18:35 (2,558 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

Imagine a bucket inside a bigger bucket. The inner bucket is your drum in the dryer, the outer one is the room the dryer is set up in.

With condensers, no moisture is supposed to be exchange.
If you pour water into your inner bucket, it won't fill the outer one, or vise versa.
So, it really dosen't matter much how humid the air in the room you set it up in is as there is no exchange of moisture (or matter at all, for that point).

Now, if you dump hot water into the outer bucket, there still is no exchange of water between the inner one and the outer one.
However, you do feel the inside of the inner bucked becomeing warm.
That is the idea of the heat exchanger: Allowing heat to travel while no matter is exchanged.



Now, different new picture: Imagine a white board with a line drawn in the middle. The left side is the room you set the dryer up in, the right one is the inside of your dryer.

A dot in each half represents the temperature level of the system.
You now can see that if these 2 dots are on about the same level, and draw a line conecting these two dots, the slope you see is rather flat.
If the difference is higher, the slope is steaper.

The steaper a slope is, the quicker things move from the upper position on the slope to the slower position.
Now, what runs down that slope is the heat in the heat exchanger. You want to move heat as quickly as possibly from the inside of the dryer to the outside.
The greater the temperature difference is, the quicker heat is exchanged and the more efficent the condensation process is.

This also shows you that as soons as room and dryer would reach equilibrium (the same temperature level), there would be no heatexchange anymore and thus no condensation.
The lower the room temperature is, the better the heatexchange works and the more efficent the condensing is.
That is basicly infinetly true: Cooler room, better heat exchange, quicker drying.
The only limit would be that at a certain point, the water that condenses onto the heatexchanger would freeze to its surface, which would highly inhibit the heat exchange. But before that, the heater would be to weak to keep the laundry at an acceptable temperature.

Notes their: Because normal air cooled condensers have to work across a range of ambient temperature, they usually run at 75-80C (165-175F), so the temperature difference between dryer and room always stays at a good level, independent of the room you set them up in.



Where they would be used: Europe, mainly. Most people have their dryers either in a basement (which is cooler by nature), the bathroom (during winter, the exhausted heat aids in keeping the room warm; in summer, you could struggle) or in the kitchen.
Australia does have normal condenser dryers with an aircooled condenser, but their wheather highly favors vented dryers (they do have a quite lofty way of living anyway, so air cexchanges between inside and outside most of the time anyway and because the air entering the machine is warm already, heating takes lees power) or heatpump dryers (though some models are more sensitive about ambient temperature then others).
You don't need extreme conditions go get a good condenser dryer result. Keeping this in a healthy balance however is necessary. Again, in cooler rooms like basements you won't have to worry as much.

But since the aircooled condenser dryers are just huge hot air blowers in a certain way and pump out 2-2,5kW of heat, they can be considered a spaceheater if you think about where to place it.
Bathrooms should be cosy and warm, your bedroom not. Putting up a spaceheater as the AC is running is just plain waste of energy, so running the AC while a condense dryer runs nearby is just as well.


Post# 932988 , Reply# 35   4/17/2017 at 18:41 (2,558 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

launderess's profile picture
While yes, in general you don't want to open the doors of a condenser dryer while it is running a cycle more than necessary (read try not to at all); my AEG Lavatherm has no problems recovering, long as door isn't opened for too long. The problems with Equator likely would have more to do with using 120v power which means heating is going to be rather puny.

As for where condenser dryers are mostly sold/used; we've said; northern European countries or parts of such as UK, Scandinavia, Germany, France, Poland, etc... Any place where it is mostly cool or cold for large parts of the year. Though IIRC at least one country has banned all sales of condenser ventless dryers in favor of heat pump only.

Vented or ventless will come down to what persons can install. However overall line/hang drying remains quite popular in Europe, especially in the southern/warmer areas.

erikras.com/2011/04/12/domestic-...

www.quora.com/Why-do-Amer...


Post# 932990 , Reply# 36   4/17/2017 at 18:49 (2,558 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

launderess's profile picture
Post# 933002 , Reply# 37   4/17/2017 at 19:30 (2,558 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        
Swiss

In Switzerland, all dryers intended for use in a non commercial enviroment have to meet the EU Energy Label requirements for a A-rating or better. That is something like less then 0.4kWh per kilogramm of laundry with a residual moisture content of 60% dried on the label cycle.

The only dryers that can do that are heatpump dryers or that one A-labled Crosslee vented drier that has a 8h cold air only cycle.
But I think the latter is only avaible in the UK.


Post# 933005 , Reply# 38   4/17/2017 at 19:53 (2,558 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
"8h cold air only cycle"

launderess's profile picture
Mind boggles as to why there is such a thing.


www.halifaxcourier.co.uk/news/bus...


Post# 933012 , Reply# 39   4/17/2017 at 20:18 (2,558 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

Well, it's a cheap way to make a efficent dryer.
I think sometimes they marketed that as over-night dry cycle. As it was vented, the high airflow and constant tumbling allowed for laundry that is softer then just line dried. Especially towels, I guess. And the long tumbling should reduce wrinkels. All that while only using about 1.5-2kWh. And as that cycle was sensor assisted, you were sure you'd have dry laundry in the morning.

I mean, I can see it working in certain situations. Like Whirlpools overnight Wash&Dry, it uses time that would otherwise be "wasted" as everyone sleeps.
And given that the cheapest heatpump dryers in the UK are still priced 100+£ over that dryer, they appeal as cheap and efficent.

Oh, and, it still can be used like a normal vented dryer with quick & less efficent drying if needed. Heatpump dryers (with a few exceptions) are always going to be equally efficent and slow with only a few using inverter heatpumps that would allow you to crank up the drying speed.


Post# 933017 , Reply# 40   4/17/2017 at 20:25 (2,558 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

launderess's profile picture
Well one could simply hang washing to dry, then bung it into the dryer with a damp towel for ten or so minutes, and still pretty much effects along with energy savings.

Perhaps it is just one, but never go to sleep or even out of the house leaving major electrical appliances running. The air conditioner is the one obvious exception.


Post# 933041 , Reply# 41   4/17/2017 at 22:05 (2,558 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

I've heared of quite a few people who have that mind set about applainces, but honestly, the worst that happend to me in that fieled was a sheet of backing paper igniting because it touched the ovens broil element.

While I get the idea, I just always remember myself that microwave, oven, fridge, freezer and our WiFi-router are all still plugged in an pose a simmilar hazzard of fire as my alarm clock does: Barely any.
I think the only applainces that I would never have running without me around would be the oven and hoob, simply because even if you attend them, a lot can go wrong.

In terms of floods due to defect machines I guess I understand why everybody is so carefull there, water is awesome at ruining living spaces.
In Germany, however, if I got that right, every property that is rented out has to be insured against flooding damage. These policies require the use of those burst-safe hoses and that instalations are done by professionals.


But I trust my aplainces there that they don't destroy my flat... Maybe a bit much...



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