Thread Number: 70291  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Kenmore age.
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Post# 932022   4/12/2017 at 14:40 (379 days old) by Laundryboy (Orlando Florida )        

Hi everyone.
I'm working on my Garage kenmore. She has sprung a little leak. But I can't seem to locate it yet. But was wondering how old she is. Here are a few pics

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Post# 932026 , Reply# 1   4/12/2017 at 14:52 (379 days old) by laundryboy (Orlando Florida )        
Kenmore Help

If anyone is around Orlando, I would love some help fixing her leaks and general things... Come hang out at the pool and have a kenmore day....

Post# 932060 , Reply# 2   4/12/2017 at 18:29 (379 days old) by parunner58 (Davenport, FL)        

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Hi Christopher, I would love to assist you in fixing the machine. have not done anything other than fix computers in the past years, would enjoy something different. I'm in the Davenport area SW of Disney, and usually free Tue, Wed, and Thur.


Post# 932070 , Reply# 3   4/12/2017 at 19:22 (379 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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The serial number indicates manufacture in the 28th week of either 1976 or 1986.  I don't know Kenmore models well enough to pinpoint it.  KenmoreGuy64 probably will be along soon to clarify.

Post# 932074 , Reply# 4   4/12/2017 at 19:32 (379 days old) by Kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)        

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"KenmoreGuy64 will be along soon" - LOL, yep! I just saw this.

That's a 1986 built machine for sure, being built in week 28 as Glenn said. This is one of the later built belt-drives in our club actually. I've got machines from week 31, 32 and two from week 35, including the one I bought new but these don't seem to show up every day anymore.

We can help with the leak issues, would help to start with photos before anything is taken apart. Christopher, you are using a tightly sealed cap on the agitator, right?


Post# 932087 , Reply# 5   4/12/2017 at 21:03 (379 days old) by Washerlover (Lake County, California: Wines With Altitude)        

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I would have pegged the DOB year 1982 -- I always thought Sears used the first two digits of the model number to denote the year of manufacture. Apparently they stopped doing that by then?

Post# 932120 , Reply# 6   4/13/2017 at 00:43 (378 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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I should have figured 1986 ... it's an electronic-control model so 1976 is a smidgeon too early, but 28th week of '86 is the tail-end of belt-drive production which caused some uncertainty.

Post# 932131 , Reply# 7   4/13/2017 at 04:25 (378 days old) by Kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)        

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Todd - Kenmore model number do read that way from 1973 and earlier. But from 1974 and newer, there is an extra digit in the model number so that they decode very differently. 82294800, reading from left to right decodes as:

8 - decade
2 - 29 inch cabinet (1 indicates 24-inch)
2 - 1982 year for year of original release
9 - 90/900 series
4 - 4th model in the series (these did not always climb incrementally)
8 - Almond color
00 - engineering revision (this always starts at 00, and increments by 10)

As to the production date Glenn, yes indeed, this was toward the tail end of production. I think the earliest 27-inch large capacity direct drives were in production by week 34, as there is one in a local CL ad right now which is about the oldest I have seen. Belt drive production continued in limited form until April 1987, but seems to be limited from what I have seen from Fall 1986 to one Whirlpool model, the LA7800XP and KM's Lady K 110.82592800. I was once told by a WP employee that at least the WP model was kept in limited production on a minor assembly line at Clyde plant to produce a run of LA7800s that were kept on-hand as replacements for DD model buyers who could not be satisfied with their DD purchase, so a supply of BDs was kept on hand for a couple years until they were gone.


Post# 932132 , Reply# 8   4/13/2017 at 05:01 (378 days old) by Laundryboy (Orlando Florida )        
Hi everyone.

Hey guys.
I'll take some pics tomorrow when I get back to Florida. It seems to be dripping from the middle of the machine when it drains and spins. Then a few drops from the side as well during the wash. The hoses are all dry when I touched them during the cycle. So many hoses underneath the thing. Thanks for all the help pics to follow soon. I have the agitator on tight. I ordered the new bolt and cap for it. Would this cause a leak ?
Thanks again everyone. I'll post pics asap.

Post# 932252 , Reply# 9   4/13/2017 at 18:57 (378 days old) by Kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)        

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Let's see -

Leaks from the exact center of the machine would be coming off the transmission, specifically in the area of the agitator shaft. This gets wet only when centerpost seals are failing and water is allowed to flow under the agitator and down the center post. This could easily be hastened by a weak agitator cap, so the answer to your question is yes.

Leaks during drain and spin could indicate the tub mounted filter, but the pump could cause this too. I would have to see it.

The pump is not in the dead center of the machine, but if is leaking, water may seem to be coming from the center of the machine. Question: do you have a very long drain hose, or any kinks or restrictions in it?

Finally, leaks that come from the edges are coming from atop the baseplate. This could be from a hole in the outer tub, or a bad center gasket. The drain hose connector could also be leaking and drip from above the rear left foot. That's an easy one to find.

As you said, we will await pictures.


Post# 932344 , Reply# 10   4/14/2017 at 08:37 (377 days old) by Washerlover (Lake County, California: Wines With Altitude)        

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Gordon, thank you for the Kenmore de-coding!

Post# 932348 , Reply# 11   4/14/2017 at 09:43 (377 days old) by Laundryboy (Orlando Florida )        
I think I found it

I filled the machine and ran it thru a cycle then took pics of the leaks and think I may have found the culprit Pics to follow. Thanks again for all the help it means the world to me.

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Post# 932365 , Reply# 12   4/14/2017 at 11:30 (377 days old) by laundryboy (Orlando Florida )        

Water was squirting from this spot when the machine was upright and once I tipped it over grease and water just poured out of this spot, is it missing a bolt or something, or can I seal it up with something ? All the hoses, and pump were dry and in good shape. Should I fill it up with grease since it leaked a little when I tipped it over...

Post# 932404 , Reply# 13   4/14/2017 at 17:22 (377 days old) by Kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)        
Uh oh...

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I almost hate to write this, but that chocolate milk colored oil is fouled gear case oil. This is what happens when water mixes with oil over time. Did you wipe down the transmission cover? If not, then I suspect someone else knew this machine was developing this problem before you got it.

Foiled oil means that the center seals have failed, and that the gear case seals are allowing water to enter. I remember a case years ago where I did exactly the same thing --- tip the machine over and what seemed like a soda can full of clear water came out, followed by brown gook.

The only way to fix it is a full centerpost restoration and a new gear case. I have cleaned/rebuilt them when they had this much water in them, and they work fine afterwards, but parts get extra wear when wet like this and they may be a bit noisier then otherwise.

The machine will run this way for a long time and no, you don't need to worry about replacing the little bit of oil that leaked. It is good to have the water out of there though.

Oh yes, almost forgot, the hole atop the gear case is supposed to be there.


Post# 932409 , Reply# 14   4/14/2017 at 17:36 (377 days old) by laundryboy (Orlando Florida )        
Hi Gordon,

Hi Gordon,
So if I plug this spot with something, flexiseal or something, can I still use the washer for a while, or should I send it to the scrap pile?

Post# 932410 , Reply# 15   4/14/2017 at 17:38 (377 days old) by laundryboy (Orlando Florida )        

Oh yes I did wipe down the transmission, it was covered in grease, so I cleaned it up a little,

Post# 932419 , Reply# 16   4/14/2017 at 18:05 (377 days old) by Laundryboy (Orlando Florida )        
Inside pics.

Tub pics.

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Post# 932420 , Reply# 17   4/14/2017 at 18:13 (377 days old) by Kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)        

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We can't stop the water coming down the centerpost, and no, flex seal is not going to stop anything in this case, unfortunately.

I think I would use the machine as it is for a while unless you have an issue with the leak. Lower water levels might put less pressure on the center seals.

It would be a shame to scrap this fancy Kenmore. There are valuable parts it it, especially in the console. If the machine can be taken to someone with the skills and tools to fix it, it can be made to be like new.


Post# 932423 , Reply# 18   4/14/2017 at 18:29 (377 days old) by laundryboy (Orlando Florida )        

I def do not want to send this to the scrap pile, I will get one of those washer pans to put under it or a plastic wash tub, to catch the water.. I would like to learn how to change the gearbox and rebuild it, Im sure parts are very hard to come by for this, also the holes (rust spots) in the center post, are they suppose to be like this? or if I filled them up, would that help the leaks a little ?

Post# 932431 , Reply# 19   4/14/2017 at 19:10 (377 days old) by Kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)        

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The holes in the tub center are there from the factory. Don't worry about those but if you take the machine apart, this is a good area to scrub clean.

Parts are not hard to find for the work you need to do. The most expensive part is a bottle of oil for the gear case, which is over $25.

We can help you with a step by step. It's going to take a good while. You will need good tools, a parts source, and very probably a helper for at least one upcoming step.


Post# 932440 , Reply# 20   4/14/2017 at 19:32 (377 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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The centerpost in your picture is the neck of the inner basket.  That's not the source of the leaking. 


There's another centerpost under it that comes up from the baseplate, through which the basket spin drive shaft and transmission agitator drive shaft are fitted with seals and bearings on both.  That's what's leaking.

Post# 932458 , Reply# 21   4/14/2017 at 21:33 (377 days old) by laundryboy (Orlando Florida )        

If I can take out the inner basket, its it possible to seal up the other center post and outer basket somehow for a temp fix, until I can fully restore the machine ?

Post# 932490 , Reply# 22   4/15/2017 at 01:23 (376 days old) by Kenmoreguy64 (Charlotte, NC)        

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No sir, good thought though. The seals involved are rubber on moving steel parts. There is not a way to augment them to beef them up, not even temporarily.


Post# 932498 , Reply# 23   4/15/2017 at 06:58 (376 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

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Go get 'er , Gordon!

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