Thread Number: 70339  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Miele W1926 washer & T1526 dryer I just bought
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Post# 932598   4/15/2017 at 19:51 (187 days old) by RevvinKevin (Between Mickey Mouse & the Queen Mary (So. Cal.)        

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After my honey and I stopped at an open house, we drove past a yard sale with this Miele washer & dryer sitting at the curb.   After slowing down to look I drove on, but then turned around and went back to inquire.  


The guy said he got them from a neighbor down the street and she said they worked.  This guy even told me "if they don't work, I'll give you your money back" sounds like a win-win to me.  So after going to Costco, then moving a couple things in front of the truck, fired it up and went back to the yard sale to see if they were still there.   Obviously, they were and I brought them home.  The best part (the real reason I bought them) I got both for just $45!  Following up with the guys "money back' promise, he gave me both his phone numbers.


OK, yes they are both 208 / 240 and they have a 4 prong plug.  I have the power, but only a 3 prong outlet.  The question is, how can I rewire them to work with the 3 prong outlets I have?  I believe the  4th wire is a ground, are the other 3 wires the same as regular 220V wiring for a dryer?


Also, any idea how old they might be?  Once I get them powered up I'll have access to the model/serial tags, which I'm sure are behind the doors.


Any thoughts, info or suggestions would be appreciated!




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Post# 932606 , Reply# 1   4/15/2017 at 19:59 (187 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Hello Luv!

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Good to see a post from you Kevin!

Sudsmaster has the same "three wire" plug on his Miele units, so maybe shoot him a message.

Post# 932624 , Reply# 2   4/15/2017 at 21:32 (187 days old) by nmassman44 (Boston North Shore Massachusetts)        

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I bought a power cord from Miele back when I bought the Mega Mieles that I have in Maine to convert the 4 prong power cord to 3 so the dryer can work. I wonder with this set if the washer can plug into the dryer and then the dryer into the outlet.

Post# 932627 , Reply# 3   4/15/2017 at 21:54 (187 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
No, To the best of one's knowledge

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Miele never did that whole piggy back to dryer thing, at least not from the North American laundry appliances one has ever seen.

Rather Miele did sell a outlet box that one could plug both the washer and dryer into, then plug the box into wall. A big (and expensive) splitter box really.

Cannot tell which model of the 1900 series Kevin nabbed; but here is the owners manual to the 1986.

All manuals for the 1900 series washers and their matching dryers should still be easily found on MieleUSA's website.

Post# 932644 , Reply# 4   4/15/2017 at 23:19 (186 days old) by RevvinKevin (Between Mickey Mouse & the Queen Mary (So. Cal.)        
Thank you SO much!

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Thank you for the info and the thread link Launderess!   I'm going to tackle rewiring the washer and maybe the dryer tomorrow.


I was able to download the operation manuals for the washer & dryer, thank you!


The specific models are W1926 washer and T1526 vented dryer.


I'll report back more tomorrow.



Post# 932653 , Reply# 5   4/15/2017 at 23:52 (186 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Just so you know

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Off the bat this washer must have both water hoses connected (hot and cold) even if you intend to use it as a cold fill machine. Just so you can get a "Y" adapter while out for anything else before install begins.

1900 series are probably some of the best washers Miele sent to the USA. True workhorses but also very flexible in terms of user friendly.

Post# 932816 , Reply# 6   4/16/2017 at 20:57 (186 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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I actually have a copy of the "technical information" manual for this machine.  I'll try to find the link to the site where I downloaded it.  I love my 1986.  It truly is a remarkable machine, even more so than the Asko.

Post# 932819 , Reply# 7   4/16/2017 at 21:03 (186 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        
that was fast

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Found it,


it covers the whole 1900 lineup including the 1926 and 1986.  It was very helpful for setting mine up.  There are settings in the 1986 that the USA manual did not include, but some of the manuals for other countries did, such as cold fill only vs. hot and cold hookup, water level adjustments and so on.  I don't know if the 1926 has these capabilities or not though.   I got my information from eddy1210.  The 1926 weighs as much and holds as much as my 1986 does...they are HEAVY beasts!

Post# 932820 , Reply# 8   4/16/2017 at 21:05 (186 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        
Aferim! I love my Miele.

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Using a Miele will spoil you; it handles laundry like a scientist.


Does the "RAPID WASH" option button work on all of the cycles? If so, that's a great improvement. Does anyone know the specifics of how it works.

Post# 932822 , Reply# 9   4/16/2017 at 21:24 (186 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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Also found the user manual specifically for the 1926 here


programmable functions such as high water level and 5th rinse begin on page 22

Post# 932839 , Reply# 10   4/16/2017 at 23:58 (185 days old) by RevvinKevin (Between Mickey Mouse & the Queen Mary (So. Cal.)        
An update, they BOTH work after some tinkering

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I got the washer all hooked up and started a cycle, but water started coming out of the lower front.  Turns out the pump clean out access was loose, allowing water to drain out of the pump assembly through a small hose.   An easy fix.


I changed it to "drain and spin" but the pump was silent.  Looked it up online and a new pump motor from Miele is nearly $200.  An "aftermarket" pump motor looks to be $86.


I proceeded to open the washer up and remove the pump.  I have to say I am really impressed with the quality of this washer and assembly for easy access!  Simply remove 3 screws and 3 bolts and the entire front of the machine swings open on hinges.  As for removing the pump motor assembly, disconnect the wiring (a plug), slide a red interlock tab forward, then twist the pump motor a quarter turn and it's out, no tools or hoses to disconnect!


I was thinking about trying to substitute another drain pump from I removed from another (non-Miele) washer, as I discovered the pump motor is 120V.   So with the front of the washer open I pulled the pump wire out for easier access and plugged this other pump  in as the connector was identical and it worked fine.  Just for grins I plugged in the Miele pump motor again (outside the washer) and much to my surprise, it worked!  I restarted the drain cycle a few times to make sure and it spun fine each time.  So I assume there was poor contact at the pump connection.


I reassembled the motor into the housing and set it to drain and it worked, problem solved!  WOO HOO!


I ran a 180 degree cycle with 2 tablespoon of citric acid to clean it out.  It's interesting that pressing the "Rapid wash" button knocks ONE HOUR off the cycle time!  However from what I saw in the owners manual, it reduces the number of rinses from 3 (or 4?) down to 2, plus it nearly eliminates the spin between the wash-rinses.  It drained and spun at low speed for 20 or maybe 30 seconds before starting the rinse.  Only the final spin was normal speed.  


Another thing I found interesting is, for the first 10 minutes of the wash, the tumble speed was slow, or what I assumed was "normal".  Then the next 5 - 7 minutes, each time it changed direction it started tumbling faster at first, then slowed to the "normal speed"(?) again.  THEN... for the remainder of the wash, it was the faster tumble speed!  Rinses were the slower tumble speed and duration.


Boy this thing really fills up for the rinses!  Question: is the the normal rinse water level, or is this just for the "quick rinse"?


Also, the dryer works perfectly!  So I now have a completely functional Miele washer & vented dryer for a total investment of just $45!  WOO HOO! 




Edit... I posted this before checking the thread for any replies.  THANK YOU Launderess, Greg, Mike and Ken for your comments and the info!



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This post was last edited 04/17/2017 at 00:13
Post# 932845 , Reply# 11   4/17/2017 at 00:26 (185 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Very well done! You are going to have a blast

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With those Miele laundry appliances.

It is fairly common for persons who don't know at first to remove the drain pump "filter", then have the thing leak upon replacement. Once you get it sorted it never happens again as it is "remembered".

Yes, it is likely wiring/a connection worked its way loose during all the shifting about, thus the pump motor problems. Glad you were able to get it sorted without having to pay Miele's outrageous call out prices and or worse purchase a new pump for no reason.

Also equally yes, Miele parts aren't cheap. So get used to that sticker shock. *LOL*

Pump motor 120v: With these 120v/208v-240v Miele washers IIRC only a few things require true 208v-240v power, and that may even be limited to the heaters. Most everything else runs off 120v. Sadly the way Miele has wired these units you cannot simply just hook them up to pure 120v power. That is sad because far more would be "rescued" (well the washers anyway), if people could get round that pesky 120v/208v-240v power requirement. As you've found out it is possible to wire these washers both ways; three or four prong "dryer" plugs, but that is far as things go.

First ten minutes.....

One assumes like many European front loaders the first ten minutes are so are allotted for heating. As such the periods of tumbles are slower as the wash water is brought up to the proper temperature. On my AEG Oko-Lavamat one sees the same behavior. However once the thermostat clicks off after beign satisfied, wash drum patterns change to reflect proper rhythm for cycle chosen. The slower tumbling also allows for greater saturation of wash with water, and topping up if need be should the machine sense level has dropped.

Rapid wash:

Cycle is meant for lighly soiled clothing that one needs quickly. My AEG has a similar cycle.

Great thing about your Miele w1926 is that you can use the "Rapid" wash with all three cycles (Cottons, Permanent Press, and Delicates). You also can choose to add a pre-wash with the RW cycle. See? Total user control.....

Play around with the "Water Plus" (adds slightly more water for both wash and rinse cycles), and "Gentle Wash" for your fine danties! LOL*

The W1926 is rated for a 13kg capacity, this as opposed to the standard 11kg of the 1918. So you can fit a bit more in there.....

As for the T1526 you've got yourself a nice Miele *VENTED* dryer, which is a bit better IMHO than the condenser.

If you really want to see your Miele washer shine, get yourself some Persil powder; the stuff from Germany and do a load of whites at hot to boil wash temps. You will be amazed at the results.

Post# 932846 , Reply# 12   4/17/2017 at 00:29 (185 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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I had to change the boot on mine and it was super easy!  I ordered one from England.  I had to screw my drain hose to the wall because it had so much force it jumped out of the standpipe!  My rinses always fill quite a ways up the door glass.

Post# 932847 , Reply# 13   4/17/2017 at 00:29 (185 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Rapid Wash Cycles

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Find are best for small (half of rated capacity) loads that aren't very dirty. Several dress shirts, things that were only lightly worn and so forth. This an or things that want freshening after being put away for a while.

Post# 932874 , Reply# 14   4/17/2017 at 06:08 (185 days old) by foraloysius (Groningen, the Netherlands)        

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Small correction on the capacity, the W1926 is meant for 13lbs of laundry, not kg. The W1903 and the 1918 were rated 11lbs.

The variation in tumble speed is a sequence of different parts of the washing process. The slow tumblins (40rpm IIRC) is for wetting the laundry, than a pause for soaking and then the faster tumble speed for cleaning (55rpm).

Nice set btw, happy washing!

Post# 932943 , Reply# 15   4/17/2017 at 13:53 (185 days old) by RevvinKevin (Between Mickey Mouse & the Queen Mary (So. Cal.)        

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Thank you again Launderess for all the info!   I happen to have a package of German Persil powder (don't remember which one at the moment) and I am looking forward to trying it in the Miele.  Do you have any suggestions as to what quantity to use?  I can't read the package since it's in German.


Louis, thank you for the info and capacity correction.  I was thinking "13 kg sounds like a lot!"  Later I read in the operation manual the capacity is 6 kg (13.2 lbs), which still seems like a lot for this little machine.  


I'm planning to do a load of whites and maybe a load of towels in it this weekend!



Post# 932955 , Reply# 16   4/17/2017 at 16:23 (185 days old) by Mayfan69 (Brisbane Queensland Australia)        
Looking good Kevin

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Nice set Kevin: I have a 1980's set in storage.

I don't know about you, but I found the washer to be HEAVY! A lot heavier than a lot of other front loader's.


Post# 932956 , Reply# 17   4/17/2017 at 16:31 (185 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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I also have a pack of German Persil.  I have a small round scoop that I kept from a tub of OxyClean.  That little scoop full is all I can use because with my soft water and a 190F wash it will oversuds easily.  But it does make for a very clean wash.  YMMV

Post# 933054 , Reply# 18   4/18/2017 at 00:05 (184 days old) by RevvinKevin (Between Mickey Mouse & the Queen Mary (So. Cal.)        
Update #2

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I wanted to play with this washer more today, so I did a load of towels after I got home from work.  


3 large bath towels

2 hand towels

16 wash cloths  


This filled the washer right to the top of the drum when I loaded it.  


I ran a regular 140 degree cycle, which showed 1 hr 40 mins... pretty long and I watched pretty much the entire cycle.  Personally I think the 45 min wash time is excessive.  I was disappointed that none of the 4 rinses filled with any more water then it did for the wash.   As I was washing towels I was hoping for a deep fill well up the door glass, like the "rapid wash" did yesterday.   I never really saw much water.  I did try pressing the "water plus" a few minutes after the cycle started, but it made no difference.  I'm guessing it needs to be pressed before the cycle starts?


Also discovered two issues.  #1 water was dripping from the pump housing (an O-ring perhaps) and #2 I think it's pretty safe to say the shock absorbers kaput.  The first two spins after the wash, the tub banged against the cabinet each time the speed ramped up and back down again.  The remaining spins didn't bang the cabinet, but the tub moved around a helluva lot!  


Now the $64,000 dollar question is, do any of you know where to find replacement shocks??  I searched a number of parts websites, even some in the UK and they all list many parts, belts, pumps, motors, heater elements, entire tubs, etc, but NO shock absorbers on any parts site.  I did come across some shocks listed on fleabay and Amazon, but the washers they fit were different from mine.  Also, the Miele site is useless as it doesn't list any parts at all. 




Also, can anyone date the dryer from the model tag below?  I still have not been able to find the model tag on the washer, any ideas on where it's supposed to be?   


Note on the photos: I was wearing a red shirt and it's funny the camera picked up the reflection and made the towels look pink in the photo w/o the flash.  


Thanks much in advance!


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Post# 933056 , Reply# 19   4/18/2017 at 00:15 (184 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Yes, 13lbs not 13kgs

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Cannot believe made that error. Must remember to proof read more often! *LOL*

Yes, these old Miele washers are heavy. That comes down to those cast iron tub weights Miele uses instead of the concrete block or whatever other manufactures deploy as counter weight.

Cannot say about anything afterwards, but the W700, W1000, and W1900 series washers were built to near or at commercial quality. Indeed think much of Miele's domestic washers for ages suited that claim. When you are selling washers with a life expectancy of 20 years....

All that weight makes Miele washers of old able to withstand (within reason)forces generated by unbalanced loads or such.

Other front loaders like my more modern AEG Oko-Lavamat go the other way; they try to avoid unbalanced loads and as their suspension and shock systems are not nearly as robust compared to my Miele W1070.

It took *two* grown men Miele techs to replace the suspension on my machine; cursing, moaning and probably saying many bad things about the customer (that would be Moi) who kept calling them to fix this "old" washer. *LOL*

Not sure about the 1900 series, but my Miele will only attempt to balance a load for a set amount of tries; after allotted time is over and timer switches to "spin" the machine will regardless. Have never allowed it to spin with a badly unbalanced load so don't know if it will shut off or continue.

Post# 933081 , Reply# 20   4/18/2017 at 06:04 (184 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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My model tag is on the inside back of the chrome door ring dead center. 

Page 24 of the manual tells how to activate high water level.  My 1986 has it turned on...but washing it does not fill as full unless it's on delicates.  But rinses do fill up on the glass a bit.  Also, after a few minutes of operation mine locks out any changes to the program.  Yours has that capability too if it's been set in its little microchip brain.

Post# 933082 , Reply# 21   4/18/2017 at 06:15 (184 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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what about these


This listing above says it will fit w900 series washers.  When I ordered the door boot, I found it on ebay listed to fit w900 washers.  I contacted the seller and he said it would fit American 1900 versions.  He was correct, it fit.  So...and I may be wrong so feel free to correct me...but I believe parts from Europe that say they fit w900 will fit our w19xx machines here.

Post# 933086 , Reply# 22   4/18/2017 at 06:30 (184 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Ordered my shocks from Europe

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When it was time to replace them, at least one thinks one did. *LOL*

Miele techs will install NIB parts a customer has long as they are just that; Miele and "new" as in unopened container. Then the warranty from Miele regarding service and parts is valid.

You have to know your prices though. Sometimes after currency conversion, VAT and shipping from Europe the difference between there and MieleUSA isn't that great. Of course if the parts are a give away price.

Watched tech replace the shocks on my machine and it is not something one would want to do on one's own. Newer Miele washers have removable side panels to make access easier. On these older units everything is serviced either from front or top.

Post# 933095 , Reply# 23   4/18/2017 at 07:38 (184 days old) by gizmo (Great Ocean Road, Victoria, Au)        

can you post a photo of the shocks?

If they are what I think they are, they might be repairable.

It looks a lot like a W840 I have repaired in the past.

Post# 933098 , Reply# 24   4/18/2017 at 08:11 (184 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Hello Kevin

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Just telephone MieleUSA at: 1 (866) 694-5851

Follow the prompts when asked till you reach the parts department.

Have your washing machine's model number ready and from there inquire about the shock absorbers. The rep will tell you if they are available, price and part number. If he or does doesn't give all information, just ask; they are very helpful, and I should know shouldn't I? *LOL*

Armed with the above information either go onto eBay or do an internet search using Miele part #********. You want to order *TWO* shocks because both should be replaced at same time regardless if only one is worn.

Make sure you order genuine Miele parts that will fit your machine. I stuck to the part number that matched one given by Miele and had no problems.

Once you have sorted out which is cheaper and a better choice you have two options.

Order the parts either from Miele or elsewhere and do the repair yourself.

Order the parts from Miele and have them do the repair.

Generally regardless of what a customer tells Miele when making a service call they will schedule an appointment to diagnose the problem. Tech will arrive look at and test the machine, then give a report as to issues, cost of repair and parts. Unless things have changed (again) Miele no longer will do repair work on same day; but schedule another appointment to return. Fee to come out and "diagnose" is around $125. Fee for them to return and do the work is around $80/hr. plus cost of parts.

If you have a European torx set for power tools removing and swapping out the shocks might prove an easy DIY job for someone like yourself. I chose to go with Miele's repair service, but that was just me. It is a bit of a tight squeeze inside the machine, but again these model washers were designed to be serviced from the front.

Quite honestly now you know why the washer and dryer were at "give away" price; but truth to tell the repair is a minor one on the scale of things that could have been wrong with the washer, and thus even if you end up paying a few hundred you'll still have a washing machine that is streets better than most of what is on offer today.

You can test the shocks by taking the top of machine off (very easy), and pushing down on the drum. There shouldn't be much play, if there is, well there you are then.

Another way to tell if the washer has or is having shock absorber/suspension problems is to examine round the glass porthole. If you see circular etching, scratches or marks it usually means that the machine cannot control the tub and movements are causing things to hit that glass. Sadly my Miele did this and was one of the ways the diagnoses of bad shocks was made. Tech explained what one just related; out of control drum allows excessive movements....

I personally would not use the washer at all or perhaps just for "light" loads until you sort out the shocks. IIRC the 1926 does have an out of balance system that will prevent the machine from bashing itself to bits, but you don't want to take any chances. Last thing you want is to damage the suspension springs and or their supports.

If you want to check the repair history of your washer, telephone MieleUSA and get put through to the tech support department. Give them the serial number from plate on washer, that is how Miele tracks service calls for appliances. If they get nosey just say you purchased the thing used and want to know the history.

Also from the serial number Miele tech support can give (usually) the age/when machine was made.

This post was last edited 04/18/2017 at 08:35
Post# 933099 , Reply# 25   4/18/2017 at 08:21 (184 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

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"I still have not been able to find the model tag on the washer, any ideas on where it's supposed to be?

Serial plate should be right above the porthole/rubber boot when you open the door. That or perhaps on back of door above the porthole glass.

If not there try either to the right of porthole opening (rubber boot)

Post# 933106 , Reply# 26   4/18/2017 at 08:46 (184 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Ok, did some of the work for ya.

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Friction shock dampers are $54.99 for a set of two from MieleUSA. Plus shipping and handling of course. Part number is: 09819130

Post# 933139 , Reply# 27   4/18/2017 at 13:01 (184 days old) by RevvinKevin (Between Mickey Mouse & the Queen Mary (So. Cal.)        
these old Miele washers are heavy...

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Heavy?   Pfffft, this ain't nothing!  Try moving a 1959 Lady Kenmore Combo, those BEASTS weigh almost 200 lbs MORE then this little "feather weight" Miele, LOL!!!  tongue-out tongue-out tongue-out  


Launderess my luv, thank you, thank you, thank you for all of the info and foot work (finger work?) on this!  Very much appreciated!   I tried searching with this part number (Google, ebay, Amazon) but nothing comes up at all.   So.... I just called Miele and ordered the shocks, should have them in a week.  


Also, I gave them the serial number for the dryer and she said it was first sold Jan 9, 2001.   She also suggested it was most likely built in 1999.   I assume the washer is around the same age, but will confirm once I find the info label.


Fortunately I do have some knowledge, plus the tools and ability to do most repairs myself, so no reason to call Miele service in for the repair.


Greg and Launderess, thanks for the model tag location info, I'll take a look when I get home this afternoon.


"Why the washer & dryer were at "give away" price"...

I'm sure the worn out dampers have been that way for a while.  But I'd also bet the real reason the set was "kicked out" is the pump stopped working, hence the pump drain left open.  Regardless they are still neat, though small machines, I'm glad I went back for them.



This post was last edited 04/18/2017 at 16:03
Post# 933154 , Reply# 28   4/18/2017 at 15:51 (184 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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Don't let the size fool ya!  I can fit a King size quilt in mine.  It holds more than my Asko will, and the Asko was plenty big for us.

Post# 933155 , Reply# 29   4/18/2017 at 15:59 (184 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Knackered pump motor

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Oh yes, totally forgot about that one.

Such a shame to discard that Meile set over such small beer. Even if previous owners went with Miele to do the repair total cost wouldn't have amounted to *ahem* much, as it takes less than one hour to swap out pumps.

Miele uses a different vendor for their shock absorbers than the aftermarket brands you were finding previously on the web for "900" series.

There is some debate out there as to if the Suspra shocks are better, same or worse than Miele. I personally just stuck with Miele genuine parts.

Here are some tips on replacing the friction dampers:

Right side should prove the more easy of the two. Left is a bit tight because of the pump and a few other things sort of blocking view and access. If you have the proper extensions for your Torx it makes the job a "breeze". Well almost.

While you are "in there" and or over the next few weeks or so I'd put the washer through its paces and see if anything else is wrong. The 1900 series has joined the 1000 and certainly 700 model washers as being "obsolete" by MieleUSA. That is they have reached the 20 year milestone that Miele guarantees parts will be available. As such whatever is in stock for North American warehouses is all that there is; Miele will not order anything from Germany.

Things like friction dampers, pumps and some other bits that were common across several platforms probably have stock remaining. OTOH things specific to a certain model washer may not. For instance the motor to my W1070 is out of stock.

Post# 933190 , Reply# 30   4/18/2017 at 18:58 (184 days old) by golittlesport (California)        

Yay! Congratulations on your new machines, Kevin. Great deal!! I'm looking forward to seeing them.

Post# 933373 , Reply# 31   4/19/2017 at 12:46 (183 days old) by RevvinKevin (Between Mickey Mouse & the Queen Mary (So. Cal.)        
Found the model tag

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The model / serial tag for the washer was on the backside of the washer door!  An odd place to put it, but at least it's still there.   Looks like this washer & dryer were sold together as they were both sold on Jan 9, 2001.  Again they suggested the washer was most likely built in 1999.


Launderess, thank you again for the info and thread link, interesting to read!  Also interesting the LG shocks may work.


Another question: when I was searching the parts websites for the shocks, I saw carbon brushes for the motor.  How often do these ware out and need to be replaced?  With these machines being 17-18 years old, should I be concerned about replacing them?


Rich, THANKS!  Let me know when you want to come buy and do laundry! wink laughing w3






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Post# 933388 , Reply# 32   4/19/2017 at 15:07 (183 days old) by Stricklybojack (San Diego, CA)        

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There is a thread here on AW wherein the brushes on one of these are replaced diy, saving upwards of a thousand dollars or more as i recall.

Post# 934170 , Reply# 33   4/23/2017 at 23:29 by RevvinKevin (Between Mickey Mouse & the Queen Mary (So. Cal.)        
Update #3 - good as new!

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I ordered a new pair of tub dampers / shocks from Miele and they arrived Saturday.  After getting home from work I installed the new shocks and also cleaned the drain pump seals and area it seals against, now it no longer leaks!  Now this little 18 year old Miele washer is as good as new again!


In the photo, one of the two old, worn out, useless damper, at the top, Suspa brand.   The one at the bottom is the new Miele replacement.  Yes the internal part is plastic, but hey, it works as it's supposed to and that's all that matters.  



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This post was last edited 04/23/2017 at 23:56
Post# 934173 , Reply# 34   4/23/2017 at 23:51 by foraloysius (Groningen, the Netherlands)        

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Wonderful! Congratulations!

Post# 934175 , Reply# 35   4/23/2017 at 23:59 by RevvinKevin (Between Mickey Mouse & the Queen Mary (So. Cal.)        

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Thank you Louis!  


Now all I have to do is find the bag of Persil detergent that I'm sure I have here somewhere, so I can start using it in the Miele!



Post# 934184 , Reply# 36   4/24/2017 at 04:23 by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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Glad you have it fixed Kevin!  You will love it.

Post# 939216 , Reply# 37   5/18/2017 at 14:13 by Revvinkevin (Between Mickey Mouse & the Queen Mary (So. Cal.)        
Update #4 - working great & more observations

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After I installed the new shocks / dampers, it's been working like a champ!  Though I've only run approx one load per week in it.    


Last weekend I decided to try a load of cal king sheets & 5 king pillow cases, with rapid wash & water plus.  It's interesting to note that the "water plus" option adds water 3 different times, over the duration of the wash, rather than all at once at the beginning of the cycle.


I think large thin items like sheets are best done in a larger washer.  While the drum was not stuffed, once wet there was little room for the sheets to separate and tumble.  Plus, as the cycle progressed I was still seeing evidence of suds during the 2nd high water level rinse, so after an abbreviated spin, I removed the sheets, which were wadded/balled/tangled up and put them in a larger washer for 2 more rinses before going in the dryer.  I think I'll stick to smaller, rather than larger items like this and specifically whites, in this washer.


Last week I ordered some Persil through Amazon and it arrived yesterday!  I'm looking forward to trying it on a load of whites at a 180 or 190 (degree) wash. 



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This post was last edited 05/18/2017 at 17:13
Post# 939248 , Reply# 38   5/18/2017 at 17:03 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Welcome to my world

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There have been many discussions here in the group about balling up of bed linen in front loaders (yes, a few started by Moi), and the upshot was far from settled.

For every person who reported issues, others claimed the thing never happens. Some fold their linen before going into the washer in various manners, others have various other "tricks". Long story short one doesn't have that kind of time each wash day to perform origami folding on bed linen before it goes to the wash.

Will say it seems crisp bed linens, that do not compact down much (if at all) during the wash need smaller load sizes than say flannel or even muslin.

Fitted sheets? The person who invented them ought to have been lined up and shot. *LOL*

One finds invariably things get caught in pockets of fitted sheets and when washer goes into spin things become unbalanced.

Will say that under loading seems to give better results with most front loaders have used. The Miele doesn't like this as it tends to create unbalanced loads. AEG/Lavamat thanks to more refined electronic controls does a better job. However things still tangle/ball up in that machine and often have to stop, unlock then open door, untangle and restart.

Besides speed, one reason for seeking out a wringer washer, and or doing linens with a tub and mangle is simply to get on with things. Rather than deal with long cycle times, and the near certainty that things will become unbalanced during some portion of cycle.

Happily our bed linen isn't very soiled so doing them in tubs or even the wringer isn't a huge deal.

Other thing one does is simply use the Miele's PP cycle (no spins between rinses), and after draining final rinse water chuck things into spin dryer or use one of my mangles. This is especially true of the Miele, where after spending >$300 to repair the suspension, and sums a or so before that on new shock absorbers, am doing all possible to baby the machine.

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