Thread Number: 70735  /  Tag: Refrigerators
G E WALL REFRIGERATOR electric situation
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Post# 937127   5/8/2017 at 14:46 (2,516 days old) by bt1962 (earth)        

The manual indicates i should have a wall outlet mounted way up at the top of the unit. I dont have one (who does ?? ) and i dont think i want to get one. I dont like extension cords either. Can i just buy an after-market appliance replacement cord and put it on in place of the original one ? I could then run the cord down to an outlet right below the unit . If so , what specs am i looking at for the replacement cord ? There are different gauges of cord, etc. Thanks for looking ....




Post# 937130 , Reply# 1   5/8/2017 at 14:59 (2,516 days old) by kb0nes (Burnsville, MN)        

kb0nes's profile picture
Swapping the cord would be the cleanest method, but a refrigerator uses relatively low current so an extension cord would be just fine too.

16 Gauge would be fine for either.

For what it's worth, installing an outlet box in a wall within the same stud cavity as a lower box is typically pretty easy. It is when you have to go sideways across a wall that you run into difficulty with crossing the studs.



Post# 937131 , Reply# 2   5/8/2017 at 15:07 (2,516 days old) by turquoisedude (.)        

turquoisedude's profile picture

Replacing the power cord on one of these fridges is something of a pain - you have to remove the whole panel above the refrigerator compartments.   That may not sound bad, but GE sealed the panel with some kind of goo that is not fun to work with.    

 

I second what Phil says - use a 16 gauge extension and you'll be fine!


Post# 937209 , Reply# 3   5/8/2017 at 21:06 (2,516 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

Are you guys sure?  Don't plain old table lamps typically use 14 gauge stranded wire?  I think my '57 Combination's cord is 14 gauge. 

 

Regardless, changing the cord is not a big deal.  Most replacement cords found today would have the flat low-profile plug with a third prong for a grounded outlet.  If the receptacle isn't a 3-prong type, using an adapter would be unsightly, and you may have to decide on changing the outlet or harvesting a 2-prong cord from another appliance if you have one lying around.


Post# 937211 , Reply# 4   5/8/2017 at 21:34 (2,516 days old) by Travis ()        

Ralph,

 

14 gauge is rated for 15 amps.  The highest I've ever seen my jumbo pink GE draw is 380 watts.  I have a hunch that's a 16 gauge cord.

 

Changing the cord is only a problem if the design is poor as Paul has indicated.


Post# 937216 , Reply# 5   5/8/2017 at 22:15 (2,516 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Plugging In A GE Wall Refrigerator

combo52's profile picture

Why not just put the outlet in the correct location, this is after all a Built-In Refrigerator, you do not move them for cleaning. Putting a proper outlet is the easiest part of installing this beast.

 

A 16 ga cord is plenty heavy, table lamps usually use 18ga cords, whether you change the cord or not be sure to ground this  [ or any older refrigerator ] and Do Not plug it into a GFI outlet unless you like coming home to find the GFI tripped and all the food in the freezer thawed and leaking on to the counter below.

 

These Wall Refs were not well insulated and they will completely warm up and thaw out in less than 24 hours.


Post# 937320 , Reply# 6   5/9/2017 at 10:16 (2,515 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)        
For what it's worth,

panthera's profile picture
I think a proper outlet is the best solution.if that's not possible, I'd suggest three things
First, a 14 gauge extension cord with a heavy duty receptacle. These grip tighter than regular ones.
Second, keep the length to a minimum.
Third, a single branch circuit serving only this refrigerator.



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