Thread Number: 70881  /  Tag: Modern Dishwashers
Maytag Jetclean Still underfilling after new water inlet valve replacement
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Post# 938738   5/15/2017 at 20:21 by maytaga806 (Brighton, MI)        

So, dishwasher still cleans and cycles perfectly although it is still having the surging issue. As Ive mentioned before, when it runs and recirculates the water at any time of the cycle it constantly is surging and sounds deprived of water. Water is getting to all three levels. Looks like it has plenty of water too. But it seems to be underfilling. This issue is easily temporarily resolved for each cycle by adding less than half a gallon of water to the basin after it fills each time throughout the cycle.

So we thought it was a bad inlet valve as suggested we replace it with a new one. We did, and I test ran it. It filled PERFECTLY. Started to recirculate and cycle into the pre wash and sounded absolutey perfect, no surging. Then after I ran it for about 7 minutes, I cancelled and drained it and then ran it on another rinse cycle, and then again, it started surging during the pre wash. It had just been working totally fine a minute ago! Makes NO sense. Like I said, adding water to the tub makes the surging go away.

This problem NEVER occurred until AFTER i cleaned out to the sump. I didn't hear any type of surging before I cleaned the sump and chopper out. Before water wasn't getting to the upper wash arm very well and wasn't working at full blast as it is now with the sump cleaned out from gunk in the chopper.

What the heck could possibly be the issue? Could it possibly be the float or something I did wrong in the sump assembly? The valve isn't the problem, so lets take that off the list.

Im in serious need of help. This is a 2010 style Maytag Jetclean Plus Steam dishwasher with soil sensing technology.

Post# 938744 , Reply# 1   5/15/2017 at 20:59 by washerdude (Canada )        

How high is your drain hose installed? I noticed you said you drained the unit and after that it began surging, could a possible siphon be taking place?

Post# 938846 , Reply# 2   5/16/2017 at 15:25 by maytaga806 (Brighton, MI)        

my drain hose is looped over under the sink so that water cant leave the tub during the cycle.

Post# 938897 , Reply# 3   5/16/2017 at 20:17 by cuffs054 (GA)        

Maytag, not sure if this will help, but I noticed if I run my new Fridgaire DW on any cycle except heavy it will surge and sound water starved.  I'm thinking the water saving police have something to do with it.

Post# 939048 , Reply# 4   5/17/2017 at 17:53 by maytaga806 (Brighton, MI)        

It just doesnt seem to make sense, but lemme run my dishwasher and see if that seems to help.

Post# 939136 , Reply# 5   5/18/2017 at 00:42 by cuffs054 (GA)        

Maytag, have you checked the overfill float to see if something has gotten beneath it? Also, have you checked to see if the machine is still level, front to back and side to side?

Post# 939326 , Reply# 6   5/19/2017 at 05:14 by maytaga806 (Brighton, MI)        

Yes, the machine is definitley level. We have tested for that, and I will also check under the float.

Post# 940643 , Reply# 7   5/28/2017 at 11:37 by maytaga806 (Brighton, MI)        

I really need help, I would like to be able to not have to be around the dishwasher while its on to know when to put water in it.

Post# 940649 , Reply# 8   5/28/2017 at 11:54 by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)        
Ya that would be a pain

mark_wpduet's profile picture
but at this point, I think people are mostly out of ideas so you may need to call an appliance tech or something.

Post# 940702 , Reply# 9   5/28/2017 at 19:47 by Lorainfurniture (Cleveland )        

Disconnect your supply hose and check the flow by filling a bucket. It should be a pretty intense water flow.

Dishwashers are timed fill. If the water valve was replaced then you have some sort of restriction.

About a year ago I found a dishwasher supply hose and the rubber gasket had somehow collapsed and restricted flow enough to make the dw barely work

Post# 940721 , Reply# 10   5/28/2017 at 22:00 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
I Hate To Be A Parts Changer

combo52's profile picture

But, change the tubity sensor, your Dw was very mineral-ed up and the TS may be causing an under fill condition.


Bear in mind that it is had to diagnose and fix many problems over the internet, if you send me the model # I will send you a good used TS if I have the correct one.


John L.

Post# 941941 , Reply# 11   6/5/2017 at 17:51 by maytaga806 (Brighton, MI)        

What is a tubity sensor? The fill time is approxamatley 75 seconds long, each fill. My dishwasher's model number is MDBH989AWS3 Maytag Jetclean Plus. Do you think the fill time is too short?

Post# 941962 , Reply# 12   6/5/2017 at 20:09 by Rolls_rapide (Scotland, UK)        

rolls_rapide's profile picture
A few things to check:

1: Are you sure that there is nothing blocking the wash pump impeller, like pieces of broken glass, or large seeds?

2: Are you ENTIRELY sure that the spray arms are THOROUGHLY clear of food debris? Seeds can easily lodge within spray arms.

3: Are the spray arm hubs/spindles clean and in good condition? Worn plastic parts can allow water to leak out before it gets to where it is needed.

4: Have all the parts that you removed been put back correctly? It is very easy to misalign screw threads, or flanges and seals.

Post# 941968 , Reply# 13   6/5/2017 at 20:33 by maytaga806 (Brighton, MI)        

You know what, it never made the nouse until AFTER i took the sump apart and chopper assemebly. But water wasnt getting to the upper racks anyway so.. I dont know. Plus I dont trust on doing a lot of things myself. Im not too handy. But I definity know quite a bit about these things. The chopper was so confusing to get back on but I did it and I allined it correctly I thought, but maybe not. As I add a little bit of water the surging sound goes away....

Post# 941972 , Reply# 14   6/5/2017 at 20:56 by Lorainfurniture (Cleveland )        

The turbidity sensor detects the cleanliness of the water. It won't have any impact on your fill. Let's try and look at this as logically as possible.

Problem: poor washing, unit is having cavitation issues.
2. Adding water to the unit completely resolves your issue
3. We can definitely say the unit is not letting enough water in, despite your 75 second fill.
4. What part/s control the fill system? Start with the spigot under your sink, then the supply hose and through the inlet valve (new?), passing through one more "injection tube" before entering your dishwasher. I know the timer is involved, but let's just forget about it for now as it is energizing the water valve appropriately.

5. By disconnecting the supply line at the inlet valve, you can test multiple parts at once. More than likely you will find a pathetic little trickle when you have it on full bore. Find out why and your dishwasher will work again.

Post# 941978 , Reply# 15   6/5/2017 at 21:49 by johnb300m (Chicago)        

johnb300m's profile picture
It could be something as simple as a water leak in the distribution system. If the pump at correct fill level is used to pumping at 10 gallons per minute, but there's a leak that permits 15, the pump will pump 15 and run the sump dry. Causing it to cavitate. Just a thought.

Post# 942059 , Reply# 16   6/6/2017 at 12:40 by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)        

Have you checked to see if a crumbling washer at the fill valve or crumbly parts of the old fill hose or just minerals that broke loose might have clogged the screen in the fill valve? Lots of times, installation instructions tell you to open the faucet full for part of a minute to flush junk like minerals from the hot water line out before connecting the hose to the new machine. I had that happen with an old portable dishwasher; the lining of the fill hose was crumbling and clogging the fill valve. Old dishwasher manuals used to tell you how much the dishwasher filled for each phase of the cycle. If you can find that out, or figure it out by counting fills and diving that into the total gallons used, let it fill, then disconnect the drain hose, like from the disposer or drain pipe, and measure how much water it pumps out into a bucket. Then you will know how much water it is getting per fill. Does this machine have a dispenser for the rinse fluid? Make sure that it is not leaking. Leaking rinse fluid could create suds that could keep your DW pump from building pressure. When you open the machine to add water, you could be letting the suds out of the pump making it work properly until the next fill.

Post# 942334 , Reply# 17   6/7/2017 at 19:40 by maytaga806 (Brighton, MI)        

We will check that.

So I did a reset of the control board, and now the dishwasher acts extremely different. I hit the ''Hi Temp Wash, Heated Dry" four times like they tell you to, and now ever since its been acting really strange.

The first thing it did was it didn't start washing after it filled up for the main wash. It just sat there and did nothing, so I cancelled it and restarted it and it was fine after that.

Then, just now it didn't run the full 45 minutes on the wash cycle like it usually does on the "Normal" setting. It washed for about 20 minutes this time instead, and now it drained and Its rinsing now.

I don't understand what I did wrong, all I did was reset the control board and now its acting a little funny. And also before this I should mention the dishwasher operated completely perfect, no issues other than that filling problem. Now, it still has the filling issue and now it seems like the control board is confused.

Another thing it does now that it didn't before I did the reset is that when I used to hit the start button it immediately started filling with water. Now, after I did the reset it now waits about 2 seconds to start filling after I hit the start button.

What in the hell is going on with my dishwasher? Should I turn the breaker off to it and then turn it back on when the dishwasher is off? Im just so sick and tired of worrying about this dishwasher.

Any ideas?

Post# 942351 , Reply# 18   6/7/2017 at 21:11 by Lorainfurniture (Cleveland )        

I'm not sure if it applies but on newer wp dishwashers they adapt and learn your dish habits. Basically the turbidity sensor detects how dirty the initial wash water is and adjusts the wash accordingly. Over time it will adjust the entire cycle based on multiple washes.

Typically the first cycle after a reset is a calibration cycle. Let it do its thing.

Basically there is nothing wrong. Just use it normally and the cycles will adjust back to "normal ".

Post# 942521 , Reply# 19   6/8/2017 at 18:48 by maytaga806 (Brighton, MI)        

I ran it last night on the second cycle after I did the reset, so its still typical for it to be recalibrating after a few regular wash cycles?

Post# 942606 , Reply# 20   6/9/2017 at 06:01 by Lorainfurniture (Cleveland )        

I might consider resetting one more time and let it do its thing. I emailed you the tech sheet, read it over. There likely is a paper copy of it behind you toe kick.

Before doing any of that, I would disconnect that water supply at the inlet valve and test the flow rate.

Post# 942665 , Reply# 21   6/9/2017 at 12:30 by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
lets go back and start over and try to figure a few things out......

forget about what the last dishwasher did, that may have had a different programming or time frame to allow filling.......

starting with this new one, how long is the time frame it is allowing for that valve to be open to allow it to fill? KitchenAid TT only allows 60 seconds..

second.....household water pressure.....with the aerator removed, turn on the hot water.....can it fill a gallon of water in roughly around 30 seconds?...I have extremely high water pressure, so I cant exactly give you a comparison...

next your going to want to check the water valve and supply hose to make sure you are getting proper flow and pressure to the machine.....

wondering, if you were to allow the machine to fill, then stop it, cancel and re-start the cycle....will it drain first, or allow it to add more water and continue on?....

I am just wondering if that machine is just not good for your particular application.....and that it may not be a machine error at all.....

lets just try to go step by step...and rule out a few things....obviously it runs fine if you add more water.....

most machines obviously are time fill, the overflow/pressure switch is only there for cases like mine, where it fills faster than the time allowed, and so it doesn't overflow....

lets see if we can get to the bottom of this......

Post# 942685 , Reply# 22   6/9/2017 at 15:39 by maytaga806 (Brighton, MI)        

My dishwasher is fine now, the reset calibrated. So its working normally now. Anyway, the dishwasher has a fill time of 75 seconds. and while installing the new dishwasher, we had to rip the old water line out from under the sink and install a completely new one. I honestly have thought for a while that it isnt even a machine defect, it could be my water supply.

Post# 942704 , Reply# 23   6/9/2017 at 18:18 by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture

With you doing the reset, a 20 minute main wash sounds about right for when the sensor detects low amount of soil. 

Post# 942727 , Reply# 24   6/9/2017 at 19:41 by maytaga806 (Brighton, MI)        

I just ran it, this is the third time its ran since the reset, and it completed the cycle normally. Nothing out of the ordinary, but I am definitely thinking its a issue within the water from under my sink. I doubt its the dishwasher itself.

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