Thread Number: 71012  /  Tag: Ranges, Stoves, Ovens
Nautilus Model M-1 Range Hood
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Post# 940082   5/24/2017 at 19:08 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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In my never ending quest for all things vintage, I picked up this range hood near a picturesque nuclear power plant in Pennsylvania yesterday.




Manufactured by Major Industries Inc. of Chicago Illinois. The trademark "Nautilus" was patented in 1959. Other than the model number on the hood itself, I have not found any other information on this hood. I imagine it's a 1960 model or thereabouts. I have not tested it yet, some of the wiring has been cut in the junction box (missing the lid) in some attempt to repair. So I have to sort out what wire pairs up with which.  Why another hood? I figure this would pair up quite nicely with my other Caloric Ultramatic range I got for my sister. So another repair/restoration added to the long list.

Post# 940086 , Reply# 1   5/24/2017 at 19:17 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Post# 940087 , Reply# 2   5/24/2017 at 19:22 by moparwash (Pittsburgh,PA -Next Wash-In...June 2018!)        
nice find!

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Same controls as my Rangemaster..they must of made them under different names

Post# 940088 , Reply# 3   5/24/2017 at 19:23 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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A interesting bit of information. According to the instruction decal on the hood, the activated charcoal filter can be "reactivated" once a year by placing it in the oven for at least 30 minutes, the hotter the better.  So, 400 degrees? Higher? Wish they were more specific.

Post# 940089 , Reply# 4   5/24/2017 at 19:24 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Well I'll be, I guess our hoods are kissing cousins Jerry...LOL!

Post# 940090 , Reply# 5   5/24/2017 at 19:30 by moparwash (Pittsburgh,PA -Next Wash-In...June 2018!)        

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How sweet!..

Post# 940108 , Reply# 6   5/24/2017 at 21:37 by rp2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        

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Louie, it seems like the re-activation process is trying to do what a self-cleaning oven would, but is limited to the 550 or whatever setting on a non-SC oven.


It's definitely worth a try, since the hood isn't ducted and blows the de-greased, filtered exhaust back into the room.

Post# 940111 , Reply# 7   5/24/2017 at 21:45 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Oh I definitely will Ralph. I just never heard of reactivating a charcoal filter. The Caloric oven can go up to 550F. 


I wonder if it's possible to run the charcoal filter through the dishwasher before the oven treatment? Probably dissolve the charcoal.  Never mind.

Post# 940113 , Reply# 8   5/24/2017 at 21:49 by panthera (Rocky Mountains)        
This hood is magnificent.

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The wiring is pretty easy to sort - the only tough part would be the hi/lo to the motor and that's still attached to the selector switch.

The motor 'neutral' and the lamp neutral will be be wired to the neutral in the junction box.

The hot to the switches will probably be joined at the switches and run down as one wire. Rarely, the light and fan switches will be separate and join up at the junction box just as the neutral does.

There's be a ground wire and I'd check that carefully. Back then, they tended to be ignored.

Post# 940133 , Reply# 9   5/24/2017 at 22:47 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Thanks Panthera

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Going to have to open this one up further to see what wire goes where in terms of the switch. I wonder why it was tampered with in the first place?

Post# 940189 , Reply# 10   5/25/2017 at 08:39 by panthera (Rocky Mountains)        
Good question -

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One never knows. I always check the wiring on any appliance we pick up. It's beyond words how awfully badly things were hooked up back in the day.

Post# 940208 , Reply# 11   5/25/2017 at 11:00 by pulltostart (Mobile, AL)        

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Interesting range hood in that it uses a fluorescent lamp.  First one of these I've seen.  But I also think it's interesting that the manufacturer deemed it necessary to distinguish the Off/On lamp switches with color, but didn't find reason to distinguish the fan options similarly.  Go figure.


Otherwise - a cool hood.  Congratulations!



Post# 940236 , Reply# 12   5/25/2017 at 15:57 by Iheartmaytag (Wichita, Kansas)        
Reactivation of carbon

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I do not know of any of this first hand, It is only something that I found on a forum.  I too was wondering about reactivating carbon.  Aquarium filter media is often spread out on a sheet pan and heated in the oven claiming to "reactivate". 


Below is from a chemical forum: 


"Physical reactivation: The precursor is developed into activated carbons using gases. This is generally done by using one or a combination of the following processes:

Carbonization: Material with carbon content is pyrolyzed at temperatures in the range 600–900 C, in absence of oxygen (usually in inert atmosphere with gases like argon or nitrogen)
Activation/Oxidation: Raw material or carbonized material is exposed to oxidizing atmospheres (carbon monoxide, oxygen, or steam) at temperatures above 250 C, usually in the temperature range of 600–1200 C.

Chemical activation: Prior to carbonization, the raw material is impregnated with certain chemicals. The chemical is typically an acid, strong base, or a salt (phosphoric acid, potassium hydroxide, sodium hydroxide, zinc chloride, respectively). Then, the raw material is carbonized at lower temperatures (450–900 C). It is believed that the carbonization / activation step proceeds simultaneously with the chemical activation. Chemical activation is preferred over physical activation owing to the lower temperatures and shorter time needed for activating material. "

Post# 943389 , Reply# 13   6/13/2017 at 22:36 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
I guess lightning can strike twice...

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I found yet another Nautilus Model M-1 Range hood. And this one is free. Located in Hershey, Pennsylvania. I'll be picking it up on my drive to the Pittsburgh wash-in this week. Yes, another range hood, but there is a method to my madness. My cousin has a 36" 1956 Caloric Ultramatic. And it looks mighty lonely without a range hood. smile


Anyhow, this range hood is a bit more of a challenge than the first M-1. At one point it was decided to "update" it with off white paint Apparently it was coppertone originally. And it's missing the charcoal and grease filters  Plus, it's wires were cut the same way the first M-1's were. We'll see soon enough. Still, I think this will be an relatively easy restore. And it's gonna' look so cool with the '56 Ultramatic.








Post# 943421 , Reply# 14   6/14/2017 at 10:07 by moparwash (Pittsburgh,PA -Next Wash-In...June 2018!)        

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Great find! can work on it at the wash in if you like!

Post# 943522 , Reply# 15   6/14/2017 at 22:26 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Thanks Jerry! I can bring it for "show and tell". I love show and tell.

Post# 943525 , Reply# 16   6/14/2017 at 22:31 by norgeway (mocksville n c )        
Re Flourescent Light

The Vent A Hoods used one also.

Post# 950338 , Reply# 17   7/27/2017 at 17:36 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
40" Nautilus Range Hood

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I've started on the 40" Nautilus range hood. This is for the '56 Caloric Ultramatic. Turns out, the shell of the hood is solid copper, not painted coppertone (YAY). The motor mount, fan, light assembly are painted coppertone.


The paint remover is doing short work of the rattle can job.









After some Tarnex and a LOT of rubbing. Does shine up nicely. I'm wondering if Bar Keepers Friend would be more effective.



Post# 951630 , Reply# 18   8/4/2017 at 22:34 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Some more progress...

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They couldn't be bothered to clean the hood before painting it. They actually spray painted over the grease and grime.







This post was last edited 08/05/2017 at 00:17
Post# 951639 , Reply# 19   8/5/2017 at 00:35 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Bar Keepers Friend is doing wonders...but oh my fingers.



Post# 951645 , Reply# 20   8/5/2017 at 01:14 by rp2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        

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Louie, maybe a ScumBuster by Black & Decker would relieve your fingers and elbows.


Image result for black & decker scum buster



Post# 951650 , Reply# 21   8/5/2017 at 02:11 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Now THAT'S an idea. Thanks Ralph. Now, after the cleaning I'd like to polish it. Perhaps using a drill with a polishing wheel. There are some slight discolorations on the copper. Nothing glaringly noticeable, but I wonder if they can be polished out.

Post# 951652 , Reply# 22   8/5/2017 at 02:24 by rp2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        

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Maybe something like the stainless steel "cleaner" spray that applies a sheen to the surface would make the discolorations less noticeable.

Post# 951993 , Reply# 23   8/7/2017 at 16:48 by CircleW (NE Cincinnati OH area)        

Looking very nice, Louie!

I always wear gloves when using BKF, as it will cause my skin to crack open if I don't.

Post# 957184 , Reply# 24   9/12/2017 at 01:23 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Well the Copper plated M-1 is finished.

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And it was a real ball buster. The only real issue I have is keeping it from tarnishing.

I understand polyurethane may help. Nonetheless, here it is, over my cousins 1956 Caloric Ultramatic:










Post# 957185 , Reply# 25   9/12/2017 at 01:27 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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I have to add one other thing, the Nautilus has an amazingly powerful fan. It has two speeds, "low" is far more powerful than the Kenmore hood I have on "high". And "high"? An F5 tornado. This hood in BUILT.

Post# 957186 , Reply# 26   9/12/2017 at 01:29 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Up next; The stainless steel M-1 for my sisters 1962 Caloric Ultramatic.

Post# 957277 , Reply# 27   9/12/2017 at 18:11 by CircleW (NE Cincinnati OH area)        

That turned out really nice, Louie. You might want to use a clean acrylic lacquer to protect it.

Post# 957347 , Reply# 28   9/13/2017 at 04:10 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Thanks Tom. It took a LOT of scrubbing to get all the gunk off of it. Not to mention the polishing and repolishing. I bought a spray can of clear polyurethane to coat it. Hopefully that will halt the tarnish.

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