Thread Number: 71047  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Got a Maytag wringer today
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Post# 940567   5/27/2017 at 20:33 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

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My sisters boyfriend had mentioned in the past a wringer washer in his mothers house (his older brother lives there). I was there today and he asked me if I wanted it. Its a square tub with a red agitator. Its in nice shape. Looks like low use. We loaded it in his truck and he'll bring it up tomorrow. Id guess 40s-50s. Will get the numbers off of it and some pics tomorrow.

Post# 940570 , Reply# 1   5/27/2017 at 20:37 by ea56 (Sonoma Co.,CA)        

ea56's profile picture
What a great score Ken! I hope that you have room to use this machine. You will really love the speed and simplicity of washing with a wringer washer. Even though you have to pretty much hang over the job the whole time you doing it, you can get a weeks worth of laundry done in an hour. And the finished laundry is really clean. Many people, myself included find the experience almost zen like. Hope you do too!

Post# 940575 , Reply# 2   5/27/2017 at 20:48 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

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We plugged it in before loading it and the motor hummed. I noticed the on/off lever at the bottom of the tub was in the off position. Should there have been any sound from the motor with the lever in the off position? I thought the motor may be stuck. I reached in and was able to turn the pulley/shaft. But I didn't plug it in again after that because it was already loaded at that point.

Post# 940579 , Reply# 3   5/27/2017 at 21:04 by ea56 (Sonoma Co.,CA)        

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The knob in the front pulls in and out on a Maytag wringer to engage/disengage the agitator. So when you plug the machine in the motor is on. The wringer will work as soon as you plug the machine in. The on/off switch at the bottom would be to activate the pump. If the model number has a P in it then it has a pump.

Post# 940692 , Reply# 4   5/28/2017 at 18:51 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        
Got the Maytag today

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Did a little clean up and took some pics. It would have originally had a Maytag decal on the front of the tub, correct? What model is it? Serial number has me confused. Cant make out production date comparing it to the info listed in chart on the Maytag Collectors Club site.

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Post# 940695 , Reply# 5   5/28/2017 at 19:19 by ea56 (Sonoma Co.,CA)        

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I believe its a Model N2LSP, I could be off on the order of the numbers, but its a Model N, and the P would be for pump, which it has as indicated by the on/off lever at the bottom, and the metal crook attached to the drain hose. Its'good that the wringer rolls are apart and not stuck together from years off non use. And yes, it would have had a Maytag decal on the front. This is just like the first washer I ever owned. These are great machines, and I like this model better than the TOL Model E withe the aluminum tub. I think the Model N has a larger capacity. Hope you'l have fun with it.

Post# 940696 , Reply# 6   5/28/2017 at 19:21 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Welcome to my world.

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You have a Maytag J/Commander, same as mine though from a bit earlier.

IIRC those red Bakelite agitators were from 1950 through around 1955 or so, then Maytag went to black.

Yes, there should be a "Maytag" decal on the front, also another with model and patent information below the serial number.

Glad to see the agitator came off without any issues. Often they are stuck on (as was mine), which can prove to be a huge issue in getting off.

Post# 940698 , Reply# 7   5/28/2017 at 19:29 by abcomatic (Bradford, Illinois)        

HI Ken, Welcome to the world of clean clothes, and the satisfaction of knowing you have done a week's laundry in record time. I have a Commander like the one you have with a red agitator. I took my agitator out and am using a new one. I just don't want the Bakelite one to break. Have fun washing with this. I just went by Newton, Iowa this afternoon where this was made. Have fun washing. Gary

Post# 940699 , Reply# 8   5/28/2017 at 19:35 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

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My serial number 263714Q checks out with those listed for the J on the Maytag site which are listed as 200,000 to 299,999. I thought the model number should have been indicated somewhere. This isn't my first wringer actually. I have my grandmothers 1933 Maytag which originally was gas powered. A 1927 Maytag. And a 50s? Montgomery Ward.

This post was last edited 05/28/2017 at 20:01
Post# 940701 , Reply# 9   5/28/2017 at 19:43 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Serial Number

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While dinner was on the stove did some leg work on your behalf.

Looks as if your machine was made in April 1952.

This fits with information one recalls from our parts/service manuals that state washers from 1945-1953 had a six number serial number followed by one letter.

Post# 940703 , Reply# 10   5/28/2017 at 19:50 by ea56 (Sonoma Co.,CA)        

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I totally stand corrected, yes it is a Model J, I always get the two confused! The Model N is the round round tub model. Sorry, my bad, oops. Anyway, hope you enjoy it.

Post# 940807 , Reply# 11   5/29/2017 at 15:19 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

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Thanks for the info. Plugged it in today. Looks like the motor is stuck. All it does is hum.

Post# 940815 , Reply# 12   5/29/2017 at 15:54 by ea56 (Sonoma Co.,CA)        

ea56's profile picture
Did you pull the red knob on the front out after you plugged it in?

Post# 940817 , Reply# 13   5/29/2017 at 16:00 by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor)        

wayupnorth's profile picture
My round Maytag of the same vintage just hums for a few seconds and trips the breaker. The gear case in mine is apparently seized as the agitator is locked in place.

Post# 940821 , Reply# 14   5/29/2017 at 16:56 by Dermacie (my forever home (Glenshaw, PA))        

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I have the same model mine was manufactured in June 1952. I used epoxy appliance paint to clean it up and ordered decals. And parts from Phil.

Post# 940824 , Reply# 15   5/29/2017 at 17:20 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

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I did not pull the knob out. When I heard the hum I just unplugged it. I have not tried turning the agitator.

Post# 940833 , Reply# 16   5/29/2017 at 18:14 by ea56 (Sonoma Co.,CA)        

ea56's profile picture
you did a beautiful job on the repaint of you Model J. The one I bought in 72 for $35 from the Salvation Army was like this, but mine had the black agitator, so ,it must have been built in 58' or a little later. These are the best! So simple and dependable.

Post# 940834 , Reply# 17   5/29/2017 at 18:20 by Dermacie (my forever home (Glenshaw, PA))        

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I use it once a week normally and I get all the laundry done.

Post# 940835 , Reply# 18   5/29/2017 at 18:20 by ea56 (Sonoma Co.,CA)        

ea56's profile picture
pull the knob out , thats why is humming. Its supposed to hum the motor is receiving power and is ready to power the wringer. The agitator doesn't engage until the knob is pulled out, and when you push it in the agitator disengages. I guess its the clutch so to speak that engages the transmission for the agitator. Also, be sure the pump lever is in the off position. You don't want to run the pump dry for long. And that could also be some of the humming your hearing if the pump is on.

This post was last edited 05/29/2017 at 18:36
Post# 940839 , Reply# 19   5/29/2017 at 18:44 by ea56 (Sonoma Co.,CA)        
Re: reply #17

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That's the beauty part of a wringer. Once a week, about 1 hour's worth of time and the laundry is all washed, rinsed and wrung out. Now granted, it does take longer to dry, but if you a lucky enough to have a clothesline and good weather, you hang it all up, walk away for a few hours and take down. I used to really enjoy the whole ritual.

Post# 940840 , Reply# 20   5/29/2017 at 18:53 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

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So its normal for the motor to just hum but not spin when plugged in? I grabbed the motor shaft/pulley and was able to turn it so motor isn't stuck. Pump lever is in off position. Agitator spins easily in either direction. When I heard motor hum I unplugged immediately. I didn't pull knob out. Will try that later.

Post# 940876 , Reply# 21   5/29/2017 at 21:45 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
What the man said

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Like many vintage appliances with motors Maytag wringer washers do not have an "off" and "on" switch. Plugging the thing into outlet at once starts the motor, it is then the releasing of a "clutch" or whatever that starts motion. To cease motion one reverses whatever caused it to begin (switch, lever, button...).

My Ironrite ironer is the same way, no start or on button, just plug it in, motor starts, set the thermostat.....

If you are truly keen on knowing the why and how, download service manual for Maytag "conventional" washers from the library. It goes into detail and gives explicit instructions on how the motor and everything else operates.

Post# 940887 , Reply# 22   5/29/2017 at 22:36 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Congratulations Ken! Love the red agitator! When I finally get this appliance mess here sorted out, I'd like to get 1930-33 model A.

Post# 940936 , Reply# 23   5/30/2017 at 00:36 by Stan (Napa CA)        
Somewhere around here

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is a owners manual, with operating instructions. You may need to read through it.
Manual shows where to fill. Removing agitator. Setting the tension on the rollers. Releasing tension for non operation, agitating times, draining ect.
Plug that baby in and pull the knob!
Let us know

Post# 940967 , Reply# 24   5/30/2017 at 09:52 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

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But what I'm saying is the humming sound the motor makes when plugged in is the sound of being stuck and not turning as opposed to the sound a motor makes when spinning. Even though I was able to turn the motor by hand it doesn't make the sound like an electric motor does when energized. I will have to watch it as I plug it in.

Post# 940973 , Reply# 25   5/30/2017 at 10:22 by Dermacie (my forever home (Glenshaw, PA))        

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Try YouTube their are many Maytag wringer washer videos.

Post# 940976 , Reply# 26   5/30/2017 at 11:15 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

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Ken, nothing will be known as to if this motor is operating normally or no unless or until it is plugged in and "clutch" released. If the thing then continues to "hum" and the agitator does not move *then* that is an indication something is wrong.

If the machine has been sat sitting for years or decades something very well may be "stuck" or works gummed up. But it could also be nothing more than just that; parts suffering from disuse.

Post# 940983 , Reply# 27   5/30/2017 at 12:09 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

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I know I need to play with it some more including pulling out the knob. Just trying to explain how its acting. Here is a good comparison. At 22 seconds you can hear the snap of the relay as the motor starts and then runs. Im not getting that at all with mine.

Post# 941034 , Reply# 28   5/30/2017 at 16:41 by stan (Napa CA)        
Let us know

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what happens when u plug in the machine and pull the knob.
Record/ Video it if u can.
Wel go from there..

Post# 941253 , Reply# 29   6/1/2017 at 08:11 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

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Had a little time last night to try again with pulling the knob out. Didn't make any difference. Motor makes same sound of being stuck. Guess I'll have to take it out and see what its problem is. I assume if I lay it down to get the motor out the oil would leak out of the gearbox?

This post was last edited 06/01/2017 at 09:33
Post# 941276 , Reply# 30   6/1/2017 at 10:30 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

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Was just looking now for the first time at the list of serial numbers provided by the link Laundress posted and Im a bit confused. Does the Q at the end of the serial number on mine designate a Q series machine? Would seem to make sense. But the serial number doesn't fall within the numbers listed in the chart for the Q series. It does fall within the numbers listed for a few other series though.

Post# 941281 , Reply# 31   6/1/2017 at 11:06 by e2l-arry (LAKEWOOD COLORADO)        
Hi Ken

So if I'm caught up here, you can turn the pulley by hand and the pulley and the belt move? But when you plug the machine in the motor only hums but doesn't move at all? Also try this. Pull the knob out for the agitator. Even with no power in the "on" position you shouldn't be able to move the agitator. Just a test to see if the clutch is engaging. You're better off with a bad motor than a frozen up power unit. I see motors for these from time to time on Ebay. I wouldn't pay more than $40.00 for one though. You may have to wait or see if Phil or Dave have one.

If you lay the machine down, ONLY lay it down on it's front. The only position you can use to keep the oil from seeping out. Replacing a motor is a pretty easy job.

Post# 941283 , Reply# 32   6/1/2017 at 11:13 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

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Thanks. I'll try that. I did turn the agitator in both directions with the knob in but didn't try turning it last night with the knob pulled out.

Post# 941347 , Reply# 33   6/1/2017 at 20:18 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

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Tried turning the agitator with the knob pulled out and it didn't turn so I guess the clutch is engaging as you say it should.

And to answer your first question when I turned the pulley/motor shaft I don't believe the belt also turned. I think the belt just slipped on the pulley. It wasn't easy to get a good hold on it to turn it due to the angle to get my hand in there.

Post# 941354 , Reply# 34   6/1/2017 at 22:02 by Stan (Napa CA)        
Could it be

stan's profile picture
Linkage to to clutch? When the knob is pushed in or pulled out, you should be able to feel it.
You could look under the machine and watch the clutch while pushing the knob in and back out to see what's happening.
Has the pin fallen out? Dose the linkage need to be adjusted?
Hoping its that simple, so you don't have to do a motor swap?

Post# 941415 , Reply# 35   6/2/2017 at 08:52 by e2l-arry (LAKEWOOD COLORADO)        
You could also try

Removing the belt. Plug in the motor and see if the motor spins while not hooked up. If the motor runs, it's good. While it's free, see if you can move the pulley on the power unit. If you can't then the power unit is frozen up and that's why the motor only hums when connected. That happened when I first got mine. The power unit would lock up, the motor would be overloaded and shut itself off eventually. If that's the case you need to rebuild or replace the power unit. A much bigger job then switching out the motor, but FAR from impossible. Let us know!

Post# 941424 , Reply# 36   6/2/2017 at 10:13 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

ken's profile picture
I will have time to play with it more this weekend. Would the most likely cause of a locked up power unit be from a failed seal letting water get into it?

Post# 941428 , Reply# 37   6/2/2017 at 10:42 by stan (Napa CA)        

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Water has leaked into the PU then you'd likely see a goo driping out of the weep hole on the right angle drive. It's hard to tell until the machine is full of water and running.
Check ur clutch operation, just to make sure, then try what Larry has suggested.
Keep us up to date. There's a sucsess story here :)

Post# 941431 , Reply# 38   6/2/2017 at 11:21 by e2l-arry (LAKEWOOD COLORADO)        
Could be a couple of things.

It's possible that water got in and rusted everything together. Possible all the oil leaked out as some point and it froze up. Could be a gear cracked or "chipped a tooth" and locked up. That was the case with mine.

Post# 941433 , Reply# 39   6/2/2017 at 11:36 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

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Well it got laid on its back before bringing to me and there was some oil on the truck bed when it arrived. And more ran out of the back leg after putting it upright so it definitely had oil in it. Also it didn't look at all like it had been contaminated with water.

Post# 941451 , Reply# 40   6/2/2017 at 15:33 by e2l-arry (LAKEWOOD COLORADO)        
That's encouraging!

So it's got oil. Doesn't appear to be water contaminated. Now you just need to see if you can manually move the pulley on the power unit. Make sure the agitator is in the off or neutral position. The power unit should move freely. If not it's likely a broken or chipped gear inside. That rarely happens but it did with mine.

Post# 941470 , Reply# 41   6/2/2017 at 17:35 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

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Will let you know.

Post# 941478 , Reply# 42   6/2/2017 at 18:22 by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor)        

wayupnorth's profile picture
Mine had to be put on its back to get it thru a door and it seemed everything locked up after righting it and when trying it, hum, trip breaker. My agitator is locked solid regardless if the red knob was in or out. I'll use my '48 Kenmore wringer instead. You want the Maytag, for sale for free. I am not tearing it apart and I dont want it to go to a dump. Would make a nice patio cooler for beverages. Lower the hose and melted ice is gone, Amazing!

Post# 941494 , Reply# 43   6/2/2017 at 20:41 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

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Limited though. Laid it down and loosened the bolts holding the motor to the brace and slid it over to loosen the belt. Turned both the motor pulley and the power unit pulley. The power unit pulley seemed a little stiff at first but turned easier after the first couple times around. Turned both in both directions until they seemed to be turning easy. Found that the water pump is seized.

Stood the machine up and slid the motor back very close to where it was originally and tightened the bolts. Plugged it in and the motor kicked over and ran like it should. Pulled the knob out and the agitator agitated correctly. But the wringer wouldn't turn in either direction. The handle on the wringer turns to all found positions no problem. And the wringer assembly releases and rotates like it should.

Even though I laid it down on its front oil leaked out. You can see in in pic 1 on the bottom right.

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Post# 941514 , Reply# 44   6/2/2017 at 23:14 by Stan (Napa CA)        

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You could lift wringer off the post (heavy) plug in and look down the shaft (torque coupling) and make sure it's turning. If it is then at least you know somethings wrong with the wringer head. That wringer head and its function can get complicated.. Lots of parts a pieces..
Try lubracating what you can, replace, try again.

Post# 941515 , Reply# 45   6/2/2017 at 23:23 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Good for you, don't stop now; keep going.

launderess's profile picture
Plug in the washer and let it run for ten minutes or so without agitation. Then engage the agitator for ten or whatever minutes. Am guessing this machine has been sat sitting for a very long time and things have or had seized up.

If you can drain the tub manually (simply lowering the hose to floor level) and either don't mind a bucket brigade and or have another way to drain; fill the tub with hottest water you can, then go with the above advice. Idea here is to get things softened up (in particular the various lubricants), and flowing.

Happily Maytag built these machines like tanks and to some extent over engineered them for their purpose.

Service manual (available onsite from the library), tells how to detach and dissemble the pump for cleaning, trouble shooting and or repair. If the thing is also "jammed" it could very well be years of not dissolved detergent/soap, crud and God only knows what else has dried into a mass that needs cleaning out.

Post# 941564 , Reply# 46   6/3/2017 at 08:48 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

ken's profile picture
I'll let it run and see what happens. I can tell you it did sit for many years unused. Sister's boyfriend made the comment last Saturday that his mother had the Maytag to use if the automatic developed a problem. So I couldn't begin to guess last time it was ever run.

Post# 941599 , Reply# 47   6/3/2017 at 16:41 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

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Might also be a good idea to put some hot water in the tub and allow it to sit in order to get the seals rehydrated.

You've been around vintage machines, so am sure know the drill. Hot water in tub, then after a period peek underneath to check for leaks. Though one usually choses to place machine over some sort of paper (news, old shopping bags, etc...), to ease some of the bending and scooting under.

Post# 941615 , Reply# 48   6/3/2017 at 18:14 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

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Let it run for a while today. I removed the wringer assembly and saw the shaft that supplies power to the wringer is turning. So the problem must be in the wringer assembly. Should I be able to turn the lower roller by hand? I can't at this point. Wouldn't be surprised its just stuck from sitting for such a long time.

Post# 941639 , Reply# 49   6/3/2017 at 20:07 by stan (Napa CA)        

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Normal for the lower roller to not turn when not in operation. The upper roller should spin freely.. During non operation.
Dose the wringer control handle click into all 4 positions?
As I mentioned, the wringer assembly is a bit tricky to work on, or adjust.
You'l need a service manual (with pics)

Post# 941709 , Reply# 50   6/4/2017 at 09:37 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

ken's profile picture
The upper roller turns fine. The control handle does lock into all four positions. I watched the underside of the wringer when I had it removed as I turned the control to the different positions. The sliding parts that lock/unlock the assembly in place and engage the lower roller moved freely.

Post# 941724 , Reply# 51   6/4/2017 at 11:11 by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
You have a service manual!
One of the memembers here took his wringer head apart and took pics as he went along.
If you type into the search "wringer gearbox" youl find the thread. If his email is on his profile.. And contact him..He will probably help you out. His name is Bruce.

Post# 941782 , Reply# 52   6/4/2017 at 18:43 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

ken's profile picture
Well I did a search for "wringer gearbox" and got two matches. Your comment in my thread and one from 5/2014 where "homesteadgal" got a Model 30 and had questions concerning it. But no thread covering the teardown of a wringer assembly.

Post# 941822 , Reply# 53   6/4/2017 at 23:01 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

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If right angle drive is functioning then that leaves only two main other areas IMHO. Wringer head assembly and or upper roller itself.

Am still going with one or both are "stuck" from long period of inactivity, not being lubricated and perhaps a build up of "gunk" somewhere.

Checked my wringer yesterday night and yes, the lower roller does not move but can easily turn the upper.

Thinking out of the box for a moment....

Only other thing can think of is the wringer rollers need to be "reset". That is you or someone over the years the thing sat sitting triggered the safety mechanism thus releasing tension and rollers cannot engage.

If the right angle drive is receiving power and turning, something is either binding the wringer mechanism and preventing movement of rollers, or somehow tension is not properly set.

Tend to think the wringer gears would at least make attempts and or give off some sort of sound indicating gears were "stuck".

Post# 941836 , Reply# 54   6/5/2017 at 02:43 by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
Try the search again, but type in "winger head/gearbox"
Just checked and Bruce's email is there.
Agree with Laundress..what's she has sugested is very possible. Sounds like your right angle gear is functioning..if it wasn't then you wouldnt have seen it turning when you looked down it after you removed the wringer head. Check out her links.
Somethings up with the wringer head.

Post# 942061 , Reply# 55   6/6/2017 at 12:59 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        
Thanks for the info and links

ken's profile picture
Finally found the thread from Bruce too.

Upper roller turns no problem. There is no noise when trying to engage the wringer. Lower roller is probably stuck from years of sitting without use. Will take a closer look and give it a good lube job.

Post# 942194 , Reply# 56   6/7/2017 at 02:00 by Stan (Napa CA)        
Rember Ken

stan's profile picture
The lower roller is not suppose to turn when not in use.
Somehow mechanical turning from the gear is not engaging the action of that bottom roller.
When working properly.. It's only the bottom roller that is suppose to turn. Top roller alway spins free.
I would think that if bottom roller is stuck, you hear noise when you but your not. Something is not engaging it.
Check trigger ring.

Post# 942212 , Reply# 57   6/7/2017 at 07:52 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

ken's profile picture
The wringer assembly is all the way down where its supposed to be and it must be engaging the shaft because the whole assembly spun around when the control lever was put into the unlocked position. If the "trigger ring" is the assembly underneath that slides in and out when the control lever is moved into the four positions that moves as it should. I see no damage to it.

Post# 942229 , Reply# 58   6/7/2017 at 09:35 by stan (Napa CA)        
Sliding in or out when the control lever is moved

stan's profile picture
Is a part called a "index slide"
The trigger ring is something else. I'll try and send u a pic of what I'm talking about.

Post# 942235 , Reply# 59   6/7/2017 at 10:14 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

ken's profile picture
Is that found under the cover that's under the index slide that's held on with three bolts?

Post# 942309 , Reply# 60   6/7/2017 at 17:24 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Wringer Rolls Will Not Operate - Motor Runs

launderess's profile picture
There are several causes listed in my copy of service manual; am too knackered to type the thing out.

But as have said the service manual for Maytag wringer washer can be found in the library and is worth having in any case.

Post# 943015 , Reply# 61   6/11/2017 at 12:01 by tarantulae (Colorado)        


I just got a maytag wringer washer yesterday off craigslist and had similar issues.

At first the motor only hummed, and was stalled. I eventually lifted the wringer head and it was able to turn, and the agitator worked, so i realized the wringers were stuck. I released the tension on them, and put it back in the post. With the wringer rotation unlocked, the motor could turn, i let it turn like that and provided slight resistance to it until the wringer started turning. Then I was able to lock it in a position and it still turned. I discovered that my wringer is stuck turning in one direction, changing the lever on top doesn't change the wringer rotation or stop it.

I am in the process of tearing down the wringer gearbox, the gears were covered in gritty old grease and most of the grease was sitting in a nearly solid pancake at the bottom of the gearbox. I've emailed bruce for his information and pictures, and plan to take my own as well to offer for help.

Its too bad there isn't a free copy of owners manuals or service manuals anywhere.

Post# 943036 , Reply# 62   6/11/2017 at 15:31 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

launderess's profile picture
Free? No, but our generous webmaster provides a copy of Maytag winger service manual at a very reasonable rate. Sometimes you just have to loosen the mousetrap and pay for something.

Have only the one Maytag conventional washer, but have opened my purse for at least three service/parts manual and one owner's guide.

Post# 943039 , Reply# 63   6/11/2017 at 16:12 by tarantulae (Colorado)        

Its a digital copy. The only cost is the data to send. It could even be uploaded to a file sharing site if the bandwidth costs are too much. What benefit is gained by witholding the information?

Post# 943044 , Reply# 64   6/11/2017 at 16:31 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Ok, am offically out.

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The dealer passes.

Post# 943058 , Reply# 65   6/11/2017 at 17:36 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

ken's profile picture
Thanks for the info. When you placed the wringer control lever in the unlocked position with the motor running did the whole wringer assembly want to spin? I took the wringer assembly off yesterday and planned to open it today but didn't get around to it. Please post your pics and info here and also those from Bruce if you get them from him.

Robert (our webmaster) charges for the manuals and other documents available here to offset his time and expense to scan every page of a document, which can be substantial, provided to him from other members and add to the library. The money also goes to offset the expense to operate this site. Just as the fee to become an upgraded member does.

Post# 943060 , Reply# 66   6/11/2017 at 17:56 by earthling177 (Boston, MA)        


I don't know for *sure* what the reasons to charge for the digital copy are, so I will answer as if someone asked me for my reasons.

Like everyone else, I only have 24 hours a day. My time is valuable, not free.

And if you have a collector's item, which I'm sure this owner's manual is, one has to take a lot of car in order to preserve the value of the item when digitizing it.

If you have *any* experience with scanning documents at all, you will probably agree that scanning the documents takes time and is work. Then you need to correct/photoshop the digital copy to make sure everything is clear as it's supposed to be. If I'm not mistaken, Robert then runs the documents thru OCR to make the digital copies more useful, and the items easier to search for locate.

Maybe there's someone out there that is completely bored to tears and would welcome doing all that work for free.

Me, I find myself feeling super grateful that for less than 20 bucks I can get my hands on the items immediately, most of them cost less than 10. I waste more money than that on coffee.

Have fun,
   -- Paulo.

Post# 943068 , Reply# 67   6/11/2017 at 18:54 by tarantulae (Colorado)        


Yes, when unlocked the arm wanted to spin around the entire assembly. The wringers were stuck and instead it would spin the arm. I provided small amounts of resistance to the arm (not enough to stall the motor, but enough to make it try to turn the gears) the wringer eventually started to turn and I was able to lock the index and have them turn. They are stuck turning one way and I am in the process of cleaning the gearbox out and trying to get them fully functional again. Still no word from Bruce. Photos 4 and 5 in my post here are of the wringer gear and the wringer gearbox.

Everyone else, thanks for the explanations of the manuals. My day job is in IT, so I work with a lot of wiki-style sites. I had an old motorcycle site which had a wiki for repairs and fixes, which was free to access, people freely contributed to it and such, just not sure why we don't have something like that here. I'll think about it if I get stuck on something I can't figure out how to take apart. Thankfully these are relatively simple machines.

Post# 943069 , Reply# 68   6/11/2017 at 19:19 by Dermacie (my forever home (Glenshaw, PA))        

dermacie's profile picture
I bought my service manual from eBay and it wasn't expensive and very valuable hard paper copy to have on hand. It's cost was about the same as a trip to McDonalds and has saved me time in money to keep my old wringer going.

Post# 943121 , Reply# 69   6/11/2017 at 23:00 by Stan (Napa CA)        
Trigger ring

stan's profile picture
May or may not be the problem but here a pic. Sorry for it being sideways

  View Full Size
Post# 943136 , Reply# 70   6/11/2017 at 23:54 by tarantulae (Colorado)        

That looks great Stan!

That looks like it is on the wringer side. I admitedly haven't looked at that side very much, as I assumed the clutch would be in the wringer head at the top of the post underneath the selection handle. Once I get some parts cleaner and have cleaned up the gears I'll check there.

Post# 943249 , Reply# 71   6/13/2017 at 02:56 by Stan (Napa CA)        

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Here's some troubleshooting from the service manual. Hope this helps.
As you can see You need a manual dude. (Sorry it's sideways)
Let's us know how you make out.

  View Full Size
Post# 943265 , Reply# 72   6/13/2017 at 08:15 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

ken's profile picture
Thanks for the info.

Post# 943910 , Reply# 73   6/16/2017 at 23:26 by Stan (Napa CA)        

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Any luck with your wringer/ wringer head?

Post# 943914 , Reply# 74   6/16/2017 at 23:35 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

ken's profile picture
Didn't look at it this past week. Should have some time this weekend.

Post# 943928 , Reply# 75   6/17/2017 at 02:59 by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
Mentions a slide key with regards to the selector, pinion ect
Im thinking your problem could be here.
You'd have to get the pin out of the selector, remove it, remove the head have a look inside. If it's there fix it and repack.
Just a guess.

  View Full Size
Post# 944034 , Reply# 76   6/17/2017 at 19:28 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

ken's profile picture
Thanks for the info and pic. Didn't get a chance today to look at it. Hopefully will tomorrow.

Post# 944146 , Reply# 77   6/18/2017 at 18:11 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        
Got it open today

ken's profile picture
Didn't find any bad surprises. I was able to turn the horizontal gear/shaft that turns the lower roller by hand. It was a little stiff at first. After spraying it with some PB Blaster it turned much easier. The vertical shaft and gears looked okay. Was able to turn the gears by hand but were stiff. When I turned the gears the shaft didn't turn. Used a handle from a floor jack as it has notches in it which fit the lower end of the vertical shaft where it fits with the upper end of the vertical power shaft. The shaft and gears then turned. After turning the shaft with the handle I expected it would then turn when I turned the gears by hand but it didn't. I wonder if that's correct operation? You can see the old grease in the bottom of the housing. Need to clean it out and repack with new grease. Remember seeing in an old thread the spec for the amount of grease to use. Will have to find that again as I don't remember how much is needed.

  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 3         View Full Size
Post# 944173 , Reply# 78   6/19/2017 at 00:03 by tarantulae (Colorado)        

That looks pretty similar to my wringer gears. Mine was stuck turning in one direction no matter where the lever was set. Looks like yours is stuck in neutral.

The lever has a shaft that goes vertically the length of the wringer, and I think has cams that are supposed to engage the gears depending on which way you turn it. That part seems to get stuck once all the grease pools at the bottom. I haven't yet figured out how to get back there to clean it out, but if you stick your hand in you can feel the shaft as you turn the selector.

Post# 944188 , Reply# 79   6/19/2017 at 02:57 by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
I'm looking at pic 2.
You know that whole assembly can come out and components separated cleaned ect.
Be sure it's in the swing position..There's a grove pin that has to come out first using a punch..
Do you have a manual yet?
Manual shows step by step.

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