Thread Number: 71194  /  Tag: Wanted to Buy Items
looking for a pair of washer/dryer
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Post# 942367   6/7/2017 at 22:24 (2,507 days old) by rydapt (usa)        

Hi, so I have this vintage washer dryer combo that leaks horribly and it just costs so much money and time to fix, and I think it is time to upgrade. I was wondering if I can solicit some advise from you on a pair of stackable (no need to be from the same brand) washer and dryer. I took some pictures of the closet that the old washer occupies. It is a 74-in high unit and it has a little bit of space to the sides and to the back, and quite a bit of space on top. I think I can fit a stackable pair in there unless they require a lot more space around them. Oh and this is on the second floor if that matters.

My old combo is old-fashioned and easy to use, set-it and forget-it. I don't really know how much the technology has advanced with the high efficiency models and all, but I am looking for something that is simple to use and maintain. And I am considering buying extended warranty if you think it is worth it.

what do you think about something like this?
www.sears.com/kenmore-41262-4.5-c...

I really hope I can find a consensus from you on a brand and model to buy. Many thanks in advance!


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Post# 942473 , Reply# 1   6/8/2017 at 11:46 (2,506 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
you might want to consider purchasing something close to what you already have.....

the main concern, you don't need much space side to side for most, even front to back is minimal at most......what your concern should be, is that the machine you currently have has an access panel that comes off in order to install the vent line....

in the case of FLers that stack....IS there enough room once you get the washer in there and hooked up, and then the dryer on top, can you hook up the vent and plug it in?...

remember, there wont be a panel to reach through to access.....

looks like you have space over top, just a matter if someone can hang upside down while hooking this stuff up...

just something to consider first.....

my second thought would be, if possible, a drain pan underneath to contain any leaks







Post# 942475 , Reply# 2   6/8/2017 at 11:48 (2,506 days old) by RevvinKevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land)        
What yogitunes said, plus....

revvinkevin's profile picture

 

 

Yes that Kenmore washer in the link (made by LG for Sears) is a good machine.  It will require HE detergent and can do much larger loads than your existing "stacked" washer & dryer.  Plus they are on sale at this moment!

 

Just make you do some loads in warm and/or hot (don't always wash everything in cold) ESPECIALLY if you use liquid fabric softener.  Also, leave the washer door and detergent drawer open a few inches when not in use.  This allows moisture to escape and prevents mold / mildew.

 

I hope this helps.


Post# 944306 , Reply# 3   6/19/2017 at 22:13 (2,495 days old) by Rydapt (usa)        

thanks. so this is the serial number that I found on the old machine (the kenmore). How do I find out more information about it? I am especially interested in if it is a 120 volt unit. It probably is, which means the jack it is plugging in is 120 volt. I didn't know some newer machines (or maybe most?) requires 220 volt. I can't really get to or see the jack behind the unit so I can't test the voltage directly.





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Post# 944369 , Reply# 4   6/20/2017 at 11:12 (2,494 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
that 417.99170110 is your model number.....

these usually came in two models, a medium of the line, and more top of the line with options/features.....

I don't recall a 27 unit ever built as a 110v unit, unless the dryer is gas.....most are all 220

the 24 inch came about the same as features.....but you did have a choice of 220....110 was either gas, or a full 110 unit, with either a switch to use the dryer or washer, one at a time.....some even offered, if the washer was working, the dryers heat would shut off.....

you might want to remove that center panel and have a look at what power cord is used.....you will need this information before you start looking for another machine.....

if you give them the wrong info.....there are some places that will charge you, if they have to take the unit back, and that's if they will even give you a refund.....



Post# 944371 , Reply# 5   6/20/2017 at 12:17 (2,494 days old) by rydapt (usa)        

the center panel is the slope down panel that is just under the dryer (above the lid of the washer)? I didn't know it can be opened. can it be opened from the front? thanks.

it comes as a surprise to me that it is possible to have a 220 volt jack in the house. it thought everything is 120 volt in an american built house. so little do I know. but I guess that's why I need to ask as many questions as I can. many thanks again.


Post# 944381 , Reply# 6   6/20/2017 at 13:50 (2,494 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
yeah, there should be 2 or 4 screws on that panel....

that panel aids in installation and service especially for the type of 'closet' install you have....

as I attached the video earlier....it may prove a bit difficult to install certain stackable units, and being able to hook up things like the vent lines, hoses, cords.....

as of right now, if your washer needed a new belt, the lower panel would allow access to service the unit without moving the dryer or whole unit out of place....Now, if you choose a separate washer/dryer that stack, if the washer needs service, the dryer will have to come off.....and the washer may have to be moved out of that spot.....jut something to consider...

you will note when you remove that middle panel.....how and what you will have access to.....


Post# 944400 , Reply# 7   6/20/2017 at 17:42 (2,494 days old) by rydapt (usa)        

thanks. i was able to confirm that I have a 220volt (that the unit is plugged in) and a 120 volt outlet.

so if I decide to go with a laundry center like the one that I have, can you suggest some make and models? I guess a non-HE would be best if those still exist. I don't know but I read so many negative reviews on the HE ones so I figure a non-HE is a safer bet for me. I don't have a definite budget yet but I can get to that quickly as long as I know which unit to aim for. Many thanks!


Post# 944410 , Reply# 8   6/20/2017 at 19:37 (2,494 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
a model similar to what you have, as you already know how well that fit your needs, would probably work best....

I think Frigidaire and GE have a HE model....


I would probably go with a Whirlpool ThinTwin 27", a direct drive machine, where parts are still plentiful....

Maytag made a nice one as well.....the advantage is this one comes apart for transport and installing...


not sure of your location, but check around used appliance stores, or Craigslist...

this is a Whirlpool version....


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Post# 944411 , Reply# 9   6/20/2017 at 19:38 (2,494 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
and heres a Maytag version.....

note too, for this one, you will need both that 220 and a separate 110 plug....never understood why these needed both.....


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Post# 944412 , Reply# 10   6/20/2017 at 19:46 (2,494 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
maybe a little harder to find....but this is a Frigidaire model like yours, middle access panel, and a front loader....

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Post# 944465 , Reply# 11   6/21/2017 at 10:05 (2,494 days old) by rydapt (usa)        

the front loader looks really good. do you know the model number by any chance? I see a Frigidaire GLEH1642DS that looks like that but it looks like it got discontinued.

and is there a specific line or model of the Maytag that I should look into or anyone would do?

Say if either the washer and dryer breaks and you need to replace it, is it possible to just install in a new half instead of replacing the whole unit? Assuming that you can find another working half (probably no chance), can it be done on any of these units? thanks


Post# 944489 , Reply# 12   6/21/2017 at 13:14 (2,493 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
there was only one model of that style of FLer made....specifically for an application like yours....

the Maytag is probably the only one that you could switch out either the top or bottom.....as mentioned, their separate parts for ease of moving/installing....only two styles available....there is an older digital model, which I have, and a newer electromechanical unit as I posted....

the Whirlpool may come in several models, basically about all the same, one may have a few more options than the other....I always liked the dryers with the window...

most all of them are standard capacity, but more than enough to handle a family size laundry....

you can usually find them for 300 to 400 dollars....about 1/3 of what they would cost brand new.....I paid 50 or under for mine, maybe just needing a switch or belt, and a good cleanout.....but most used places will refurbish them, and offer a warranty and installation.....you can't really go wrong


Post# 944497 , Reply# 13   6/21/2017 at 14:24 (2,493 days old) by rydapt (usa)        

I got burned by the local used appliance store in the past so I tried to stay away from them. Do you know by any chance how big in cubic feet is my old washer and dryer compartment? I found these that are closest to the ones you recommend. Can you take a look at these? I don't really see what is the difference between them except the capacities in cubic feet. Thanks! (I heard is not very reliable, maybe that is why it is the cheaper though the washer capacity is larger?)

www.bestbuy.com/site/ge-unitized-...

www.bestbuy.com/site/whirlpool-2-...




Post# 944514 , Reply# 14   6/21/2017 at 16:50 (2,493 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
well, their both going to be HE machines in one form or another....

non adjustable water levels, except for the deep water wash.....dubbed down water temps, and most likely either a spin spray for a rinse, or only a half fill....

sizes about the same as what you already have......

with anything new today, its hit or miss at how long it will last or perform...


Post# 944649 , Reply# 15   6/22/2017 at 10:34 (2,492 days old) by rydapt (usa)        

thanks for your help. I am getting very close to getting the unit that I am looking for.

so deep water wash is the closest that we get to a regular amount of water in today's machines right?

there is no different between the previous whirlpool that I posted vs this one correct? (i think the former one is long vent but it probably does not matter in my case)

www.whirlpool.com/laundry...

and do you have any recommendation for the pan? is it just something you put under the washer or does it need to be installed? thanks!


Post# 944653 , Reply# 16   6/22/2017 at 11:09 (2,492 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
well the pan is there to prevent damage from water.....some place just a pan under the machine and that's it....but if the machine should overflow, that pan will do very little of containing the water....

depending on your location, I have seen some plumb them horizontally to an outside wall.....others hook them into a regular drain pipe....

the best containment I ever seen was an actual shower stall in place, plastic walls too....this would contain water from the machine as well as drain or water line issues.....
....
my knowledge of using these types of washer, let it do what it is designed to do, even with the lower water levels.....oddly enough, your clothes will get clean...always suggest a good detergent...warm to hot temps....

'normal' usually used the least amount of water, as I found out, sheets or colors cycles gave the best results...your mileage may vary....but test around for what you find best....



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