Thread Number: 71636
/ Tag: Refrigerators
Fridge not cooling after repair |
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Post# 947925 , Reply# 1   7/13/2017 at 00:21 (2,451 days old) by Jed0nly (Tulsa, OK)   |   | |
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Freezer is below 30 with frost. |
Post# 947926 , Reply# 2   7/13/2017 at 01:08 (2,451 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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It may be a coincidence, but your cold control may have decided to fail, or has otherwise been impacted by the work you did. Double check to make sure the cold control's sensor bulb is firmly in place.
My '57 GE's cold control decided to fail after I turned it to "OFF" for defrosting. When I turned it back on an set it where it was before, it wouldn't stop cooling at any setting other than "OFF." That's not the same problem you're having, but controls from this period are notorious for failure. |
Post# 947983 , Reply# 3   7/13/2017 at 06:47 (2,450 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
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Post# 947992 , Reply# 4   7/13/2017 at 07:16 (2,450 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)   |   | |
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I had to replace the fan in a late '60s Frigidaire Custom Deluxe (which is how I came to know that the universal kits do work) and when I plugged it back in, I had two settings (a little like a Flair oven - all on or all off). I had inadvertently mixed up the run and heat wiring at the aftermarket defrost timer while troubleshooting. Got that sorted out and it's been -10ºF in the freezer, 32ºF in the meat keeper, 34ºF in the dairy section and 35-36ºF everywhere else ever since. As intended. (And, no, I'm not interested in lectures on how that's far colder than it needs to be and I'm wasting energy. Nonsense!) Morale of the Story: Take lots of cell-phone pictures/video, make copious notes and if it ain't broke, don't touch it. If it is broke, assume your repair is going to lead to other complications. New wine in old skins, etc. Still prefer a vintage refrigerator to any of the modern throw-away trash. |
Post# 948060 , Reply# 5   7/13/2017 at 18:15 (2,450 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)   |   | |
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Post# 948061 , Reply# 6   7/13/2017 at 18:18 (2,450 days old) by Jed0nly (Tulsa, OK)   |   | |
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The dial is now on 7. It's below 40 when the compressor shuts off, and around 50 when it kicks on. The dial has what I imagine in a "probe" along the bottom of the evaporator. Is there a way to test it to see if it works or is within tolerance? |
Post# 948075 , Reply# 7   7/13/2017 at 20:51 (2,450 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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On my '57 GE, the tubing/bulb sensor for the thermostat is in virtually direct contact with the evaporator coil (see picture).
It appears there's more distance between your control's sensor and the coil, but clearly it was designed that way. I wouldn't mess with it.
I tend not to think the configuration is a factor. If the Hotpoint's sensor was in direct contact with the coil, it seems to me that your thermostat would cut out even sooner than it already is.
You may need to retrace your heater replacement steps and see if anything was disturbed that could cause a false reading. Based on the problem you're having, it seems like maybe the old heater was closer to the cold control's sensor. That is presuming the heater is always on, which is how some of these systems worked.
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Post# 948091 , Reply# 9   7/13/2017 at 23:29 (2,450 days old) by Jed0nly (Tulsa, OK)   |   | |
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I just realized the "probe" is a capillary tube. |
Post# 948093 , Reply# 10   7/13/2017 at 23:41 (2,450 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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Oh yeah, that heater. Now I remember.
In that case, I'm going to stick with the cold control having issues. You might try moving it to the warmest setting (1?) and seeing if there's any change. If there isn't, then there probably won't be any change when you move it to the coldest point either.
Absolutely the Achilles heel of mid-late '50s GEs and Hotpoints. |
Post# 948204 , Reply# 11   7/14/2017 at 17:26 (2,449 days old) by Jed0nly (Tulsa, OK)   |   | |
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Haha! Yeah, that heater. It's working so far. I tried tapping in the control knob. I'll check it before I go to bed. And then I'll move the knob down to 1 and check it again. |
Post# 948603 , Reply# 13   7/17/2017 at 12:21 (2,446 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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I'll leave that answer to the more technical among the membership. It does sound like the trouble is in the cold control system, though.
But one other thing comes to mind. Does your fridge have a condenser fan (condenser underneath instead of mounted on the back)? If so, is it operating properly? That could be another coincidental component failure that would impact cooling capability. |
Post# 948607 , Reply# 14   7/17/2017 at 12:33 (2,446 days old) by Jed0nly (Tulsa, OK)   |   | |
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Good question. I don't think this model has one. The condenser is mounted to the back, and I don't see a fan anywhere back there. I would have to maybe check underneath to see if there is one there perhaps. |
Post# 948615 , Reply# 15   7/17/2017 at 13:48 (2,446 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
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If the coils are on the back, chances are there is no condensor fan. It still sounds like the cold control is the culprit... I found a pretty reasonable generic one for a GE Fridge through Ranco some time ago and it worked just fine. The trick is finding the original part number for the thermostat.... |
Post# 948697 , Reply# 16   7/17/2017 at 22:07 (2,446 days old) by Jed0nly (Tulsa, OK)   |   | |
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I've seen a Ranco one for about $120 that is supposed to be the one to get, but beyond that I dont know much. Guess I could pull it out to see. But again, no way to really test it other than what we've done here? |
Post# 948721 , Reply# 17   7/18/2017 at 01:32 (2,446 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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Post# 948770 , Reply# 18   7/18/2017 at 12:14 (2,445 days old) by Jed0nly (Tulsa, OK)   |   | |
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How safe do you think that is? I'm just closing the switch, right? Here it is |
Post# 948788 , Reply# 19   7/18/2017 at 13:52 (2,445 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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I don't think it's too terribly unsafe. Just be sure you clip those two leads together in a way that they can't short out against anything. Unplug the fridge, of course, before you begin.
Don't attempt to open up the cold control. It's unlikely that there's anything you can fix inside of it. Besides, parts can go flying or otherwise break, and then you're really hosed. That's what happened to me when I opened up the bad control on my GE after I had replaced it with a new one. I thought maybe I could salvage it for a spare, but I rendered it useless. |
Post# 948882 , Reply# 20   7/18/2017 at 22:37 (2,445 days old) by Jed0nly (Tulsa, OK)   |   | |
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I found some Mars part numbers to try. I have the two leads tied together. I'll let it run for a few hours and check the temp. |
Post# 948895 , Reply# 21   7/19/2017 at 00:23 (2,445 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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Post# 948926 , Reply# 22   7/19/2017 at 08:02 (2,444 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)   |   | |
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has been following this, but really, there's not much productive I could add which hasn't been mentioned already. Personally, I always either tape connectors or heat-shrink them or replace them with insulated ones when working anywhere near metal and fibreglass/rock-wool. Dratted stuff absorbs moisture and things can happen. The tip about just shorting the cold control made sense.
Whenever something like this happens to me (all to frequently), I look for the mistakes I made doing the initial repair. Something happened, or - the refrigerant level/compressor weakness had just reached the point where this was the last straw.
Both 'worst case' scenarios can be handled, though and it's just a matter of looking for people with the skills, tools and desire to help.
As for John and Paul - well, their knowledge exceeds mine by leaps and bounds. This post was last edited 07/19/2017 at 08:21 |
Post# 948956 , Reply# 23   7/19/2017 at 14:33 (2,444 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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Post# 948958 , Reply# 24   7/19/2017 at 14:46 (2,444 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
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I've done this, and if anyone could blow the house up messing about with electricity it's me... LOL This is what I did to prove to myself that cold controls on a Kelvinator and GE wall fridge were kaput. (both have found new homes, neither has caused a fire...LOL)
I actually have now built myself a test cord for situations like this with a male flat disconnect terminal on each end. It's a good little 'tool' to have for bypassing thermostats or lid switches and ensures a solid connection. |
Post# 949017 , Reply# 26   7/19/2017 at 21:50 (2,444 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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I've found the best way to track cabinet temperature is to place the thermometer or its sensor into a glass of water. It will take a while for the water temp to match that inside the cabinet, but it's less likely to fluctuate. For checking freezer temp, ice cream will work the same way.
However, I think your thermometers have served their purpose and isolated the cold control as the likely suspect. I'm not so sure that scrubbing the capillary tube will have any effect, but it will be interesting to read your report. |
Post# 949097 , Reply# 28   7/20/2017 at 10:48 (2,443 days old) by Jed0nly (Tulsa, OK)   |   | |
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Still at 37* as of this AM. I'm thinking that isn't quite cold enough. I plan to replace the door seal, but I may replace this cold control as well. It's definitely performing better than my old thermometer was telling me! |
Post# 949112 , Reply# 29   7/20/2017 at 12:43 (2,443 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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37 is considered optimum for the fresh food section. Presumably, with the fresh food portion maintaining that temperature, the freezer should be at about 0.
It could be that the cold control has gotten a little sloppy for whatever reason. I suggest careful handling going forward. With my fridge, I unplug it to defrost rather than mess with the cold control, even though it's a new replacement. I don't want to be bothered with what you're going through right now, so I don't touch the cold control. |
Post# 949129 , Reply# 30   7/20/2017 at 14:36 (2,443 days old) by Jed0nly (Tulsa, OK)   |   | |
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I unplugged to defrost when I did it. The freezer is working well, albeit already very frosty. I cannot get the freezer door to align worth a flip. But I think that's a separate post/issue. I have a few "issues", haha! |
Post# 949134 , Reply# 31   7/20/2017 at 15:47 (2,443 days old) by ken (NYS)   |   | |
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Post# 949175 , Reply# 32   7/20/2017 at 22:35 (2,443 days old) by Jed0nly (Tulsa, OK)   |   | |
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I have tried to shim and realign that freezer door, but it just sags anyway. I've taken It apart and fiddled with the latch, but I just can't get it straight. When I go in and replace the interior trim, I'll have another go at it. |
Post# 949256 , Reply# 33   7/21/2017 at 10:12 (2,442 days old) by customline (pennsylvania)   |   | |
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But with my bottom door on my '56 Hotpoint combo. I shimmed it and shook it and bent the hinges and it's still not quite there but functional.
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Post# 950844 , Reply# 34   7/30/2017 at 22:13 (2,433 days old) by Jed0nly (Tulsa, OK)   |   | |
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Fridge is still rocking at 37*. Just had to turn the dial up to 8. Bought a nice new thermometer for the fridge. Things are looking good on this item. On to my other fridge problems! Thanks guys!
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Post# 950857 , Reply# 35   7/31/2017 at 01:22 (2,433 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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Great news!
Maybe you could stick some kind of a wedge with a smooth surface (imagine a tiny door stop) in the lower left front corner of the freezer opening that would lift the door as it snaps shut and keep it from sagging. Or maybe a hemisphere shaped small plastic glide could be stuck somewhere on that bottom ledge to make the door ride up and level out. |