Thread Number: 72217  /  Tag: Vintage Dishwashers
Started working on the PINK Westy Roll-Out dishwasher
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Post# 954847   8/27/2017 at 13:21 by chachp (Conway, AR)        

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I've started to dig into the Westy Roll-Out.  It's my first time with an Impeller machine in the roll out style.

 

  • First issue:  The drawer will not stay closed.  I found out there should be a tab by the line switch that the latch goes behind and that keeps the drawer closed while it engages the Line Switch and allows the machine to run.  At first I thought it had broken off but then I noticed the line switch looks like it had been removed, the piece with the tab removed and the line switch put back on.  Not sure what that is about but I have IM's the seller asking if they have it.
  • Second issue: And I know this sounds odd but for the life of me I cannot find where to attach the power cord.  I have the service manual but it refers to the installation instructions which I do not have.  I have photographed the Fill Valve set up which I believe I can put together as it in the manual.  It all appears to be there.  But where the heck does the power cord go?  I've looked everywhere.
  • I have applied power to the Fill Valve and it sounds like it's working.  It also isn't nearly as dirty as the rest of the parts under there so I suspect it's been replaced at some point.  I'm told this house has been closed up since 1975 and nothing was used but that the power was on and the machine did run through a cycle but the water is turned off.
  • I've noticed water stains all around the top so I suspect it has been leading from there.  According to the SM there is an adjustment to make it tighter.  I will investigate.  The tub seal at the top is also soft and supple with no visible cracks.
  • The other issue though is around the pump.  I appears as though that has been leaking.  Is there any chance I would ever find a replacement for that?
  • There isn't a single crack in any hose and they are all pretty supple.

So, I don't plan to make this a daily driver but it would be fun to use from time to time.  Any help and opinions with this are appreciated.  Thank you!!


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Post# 954896 , Reply# 1   8/27/2017 at 17:20 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
Attaching a power cord to an old WH DW

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Hi Ralph, if you look at your 2nd photo you can see where the power supply attaches to this DW. This DW was meant to be direct wired but you can attach a suitable power cord if you want to run it just plugged into an outlet.

 

In your 2nd picture you can see where the power attaches, assemble a strain relief in the hole in the terminal block bracket and attach the white neutral wire on the Rt terminal and the black hot wire on the Lt terminal.

 

Also be sure to use a three wire cord of at least 14 Ga wire and attach the green ground wire to the ground connection inside this box, then install the metal cover and you should be good to go.

 

John L.


Post# 954904 , Reply# 2   8/27/2017 at 18:33 by chachp (Conway, AR)        
Thank you John!!

chachp's profile picture

 

To make sure I have this right (and not electrocute myself) I will put the cord through that hole with a strain relief and then connect the white and black wires to that terminal block along with the wires from the line switch?

 

Thank you again, Ralph.


Post# 954925 , Reply# 3   8/27/2017 at 22:05 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
Attaching a power cord to an old WH DW

combo52's profile picture

Hi Ralph, if you look at your 2nd photo you can see where the power supply attaches to this DW. This DW was meant to be direct wired but you can attach a suitable power cord if you want to run it just plugged into an outlet.

 

In your 2nd picture you can see where the power attaches, assemble a strain relief in the hole in the terminal block bracket and attach the white neutral wire on the Rt terminal and the black hot wire on the Lt terminal.

 

Also be sure to use a three wire cord of at least 14 Ga wire and attach the green ground wire to the ground connection inside this box, then install the metal cover and you should be good to go.

 

John L.


Post# 954948 , Reply# 4   8/28/2017 at 00:35 by rp2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        

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Looks like somebody needs a bump.  laughing


Post# 954968 , Reply# 5   8/28/2017 at 06:46 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
WH DW Line Switch

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Is the LS wiring disconnected ?


Post# 954982 , Reply# 6   8/28/2017 at 08:06 by chachp (Conway, AR)        
LS wiring

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It was when I got it and I was working on reconnecting it.  The thing I can't figure out is on the underside of that terminal block there is nothing connected so how does power get to the dishwasher components.  I can see how it gets to the LS but I can't seem to trace anything from there.

 

The photos are of my machine.  I can reconnect the Fill Valve and the Line Switch and was about to attach the power cord as you have instructed.  Does the underside look the way it is supposed to or should there be something connected there as well?

 

Thank you again John for the help.  This is a whole new animal for me and the Service Manual has some good information but not quite enough for this connection.  I suspect its probably outlined better in the Installation guide which I do not have.


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Post# 955046 , Reply# 7   8/28/2017 at 14:23 by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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That's a great dishwasher Ralph and I'm sure you can get this working. I had it installed in my kitchen for over two years and was quite happy with it's performance. Removing the top rack when needed made for very tall items to fit nicely, unlike most other dishwashers.

I did have trouble with the pump leaking from that flexible rubber support hose that connects the pump as well as the pump itself leaking. The when solenoid energized moves the entire pump away from the drive wheel during fill and wash, it de-energizes the solenoid during drain and pump returns to its resting spot pushing the drive wheel against the motor pulley, which turns the wheel/impeller and pumps the water out.

What I did to replace it is I took the old pump and solenoid out. Then I installed a GE Top Load washer pump (WH23x10030) connecting it to that rubber port. Since the drain solenoid is reversed (off for drain and on for fill/wash) I hooked the WH23x10030 pump to a reversing relay so it would be energized during drain and off during fill and wash. I can explain further if you need to do the same thing.



Post# 955101 , Reply# 8   8/28/2017 at 19:37 by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        

toploader55's profile picture
Love that shot of the pulley.

Good Lord those great old motors with pulleys and idlers and everythang !!!


Post# 955255 , Reply# 9   8/30/2017 at 06:50 by Chachp (Conway, AR)        
Thank you Robert

chachp's profile picture

 

I found that pump for $20 so I bought it.  I can see how it's been leaking so I figured I would get it.  Can you give me information on the Reversing Relay?  I did a search for those but way too many options.  Did you just disconnect the pressure switch all together?

 

Do you have a photo of how it looked like after you made the modification?


Post# 955331 , Reply# 10   8/30/2017 at 16:44 by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

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Hey Ralph, first of all this is the kind of relay you will need.

www.digikey.com/product-d...

Its solenoid coil is 120 volts ac, terminals 7 and 8 on the relay, which you attach the original pump solenoid wires to. You'll also need female spade connectors, 14 or 16 gauge wire, wire nuts, etc. I remember using a zip tie to fasten the relay to the pump.

As for the rest of wiring the relay I can help once you get it.

I can't seem to find any pictures of how I mounted that new pump and it was over 12 years ago. I assume that I did disconnect the pressure switch hose as long as that dishwasher is time file, which would need to be confirmed.

It looks like that rubber boot in your machine is in pretty rough shape. You may need to replace it with a bathroom sink basin drain (leaving the pop-up stopper out). You would then attach the pump to the drain tube.





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