Thread Number: 72303
/ Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Newbie to Forum and Just Bought My First Speed Queen
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|Post# 955783   9/2/2017 at 19:36 (291 days old) by pumpkina (California)  || |
I just found this forum today and signed up.
Four days ago, I bought a Speed Queen. Delivery should be by the end of next week.
It's a top-loader with mechanical dials. Here's the model number:
and a link to specs:
I'm willing to do preventive maintenance (eg tub cleaning), but I don't want the drama of I'm having with current washer.
I run about one load per week with some clothes very dirty due to working on my car and the house.
I live in an area prone to rust (eg hand tools rust quickly), but it's not cost-effective to run a dehumidifier. My current washer and dryer has some surface rust, probably due to dings/scratches (although my Samsung had a circular rust spot on top, so I must have set something obnoxious on there).
I'm the type of person who wants my appliances to last a long time, and I've been through a Maytag Neptune and a 4 year-old leaking Samsung front loader (not covered by the recall/class action lawsuit).
What are common problems with this model?
I read about the leaking tub seal replacement repair and it's pretty intimidating! How common is that? Is there anything I can do to reduce the chance of having to do that repair?
The washer needs two special tools:
725P3 which is a kit including the hex nut wrench, spring hook, and two agitator hooks
294P4 or TJ294P4 (agitator drive bell puller) for Drive Bell 39508P
They're a bit pricey. Any inexpensive places to find them?
The drive bell looks like a generic 4" gear puller would work. Any thoughts on that?
How hard is it to get the agitator hex nut off?
Is there a problem with using anti-seize on the hex nut threads?
Should I loosen the hex nut right after the warranty expires, then put anti-seize on the threads? Ditto with anti-seize on any other components?
Are there any other special tools I should have?
Any suggestions about rust prevention?
After the 3 year warranty expires, what sort of additional preventive maintenance should I do?
Are there parts that I should have on hand and/or replace on a preventive basis, like having a spare tire for the car?
Replacement motors are pricey. Have you rebuilt them or had a motor shop do that? If so, where do you find replacement bearings and carbon brushes?
Is the motor brush kit/assembly part number 927P3P used in this motor?
Ditto with transmissions. There is a pricey ($70) transmission rebuild kit, p/n RB150004, S/N9501 that contains two (silicone?) tubes 24 oz of transmission fluid, CW Trans F-94, 27243P for $22 and a rectangular block. I presume that synthetic car automatic transmission fluid and automotive gasket sealer would be more than adequate?
I suppose Youtube has videos on repairing Speed Queen dryers. Any ones in particular that I should study?
I bought the TL on my Visa, so I get an extra year extended warranty. They told me that if I have a problem during the extended warranty period, I can get any professional appliance repair person (eg independent shop), to provide a written diagnosis. Submit the diagnosis, warranty card, and receipt to them. Actually, I can submit the latter two on-line to make things easier. They'll reimburse me cash and I can either repair it myself, have a tech repair it, or buy a new unit.
I've never deal with a credit card extended warranty. Any suggestions for dealing with extended warranty service?
|Post# 955811 , Reply# 1   9/3/2017 at 00:11 (291 days old) by tolivac (greenville nc)  || |
Most appliance motors in washers and dryers are "disposable" or recycled-the end bells of the motor are welded or riveted to the stator frame.You can replace the start switch assembly on the back of the motor.Same with start caps.The part # you mention may be the start switch assembly for the motor.
|Post# 955845 , Reply# 2   9/3/2017 at 06:19 (290 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)  || |
From a guy that has been repairing washers for over 40 years
Keep the outside of the machine clean, wipe up any spilled laundry detergents etc, when adding detergent to the washer just measure and poor, do not sprinkle powered detergent around the agitator [ you are not baking a cake ] LOL
Wash full loads in as hot a wash water as possible, use plenty of good detergent.
Do Not do extra deep rinses on a regular basses, doing so puts the machine through 50% more wear for each load washed and rinsing away all the beneficial properties of detergents puts the main water seal at greater risk.
I would do NOTHING in terms of maintenance with this washer [ just use it ] You just bought one of the most durable TL washers ever built, the most likley parts to fail are the timer, the belt, the inlet valve and possibility the transmission drive pulley.
Speed Queen has built MILLIONS of these machines, other parts will be around probably long after you are going to want or need this washer.
|Post# 955885 , Reply# 3   9/3/2017 at 11:00 (290 days old) by pumpkina (California)  || |
For my washer, the Speed Queen motor part number is 202544P. I looked at Speed Queen's part list on pages 16-17:
I'm not seeing a start switch on the motor or as a separate part. Are you sure that this motor has a start switch?
Also, I did NOT receive an e-mail notification of either of your responses. Is there a setting that I can set to receive e-mail notifications of responses to my post?
John L, what are the benefits of washing full loads with hot water as much as possible?
Should I do the rinse with cold or warm water? Why?
This washer uses a spin-drain operation. Out of curiosity, what are the pros and cons of that operation?
There appears to be no detergent dispenser. Do I just put the detergent directly into the tub? Is powdered HE detergent okay, or must I use only liquid, as required by my old washer?
In addition to avoiding the extra rinse cycle, is there anything else I can do to protect the tub seal?
When you wrote that the belt wears out, is that the idler belt (p/n 202972, pages 18-19 of above link), the agitate and spin belt (p/n 38174 on page. 16-17), or both?
The tub seal bell (part number 39508P) is 4" long and 3" wide.
According to the parts list, a special tool, 294p4, is needed to pull the agitator drive bell.
A 6" gear puller should fit over the 4" x 3" agitator drive bell. Instead of paying $81 for a 294p4 tool, would a generic 6" gear puller work?
Finally, is the timer something I can test, or is the only way to tell if it works is ruling out everything else and replacing it?
|Post# 955940 , Reply# 4   9/3/2017 at 14:53 (290 days old) by mrsalvo (New Braunfels Texas)  || |
Pumpkina, welcome to our forum, there are many great members here who are extremely knowledgeable of all facets of washers / dryers, more so than I. Congratulations on your new Speed Queen purchase and hope you will have many years of trouble free operation. I bought the same model washer as you did about 2 years ago.
All rinses are cold.
The pros of a spin drain is that the dirty wash water floats away from the clothes when draining and not through them. The only con that I know of is that there is a tremendous amount of water draining through the outlet pipe, some homes may not be plumbed for that amount.
I haven't had any problems with my washer, I just follow the users manual recommendations. Don't overload it and try not to use the 2nd rinse to much, as John stated above. One reason I selected this washer was I wanted to make sure my clothes were completely rinsed since I have developed skin allergies to many detergents and the fast cycle times. I've been very pleased with my machine, and I keep it clean.
|Post# 955942 , Reply# 5   9/3/2017 at 14:57 (290 days old) by pumpkina (California)  || |
I appreciate your comments
|Post# 956248 , Reply# 6   9/5/2017 at 11:26 (288 days old) by 48bencix (Sacramento CA)  || |
Speed Queen recommends a service every 5 years. I am not sure what they do. Probably replace the belt and lube the spring attachment points. Also they recommend to replace the hoses at that time.
Otherwise keep the cabinet clean with a damp cloth and also the lid and areas around the tub. I do not use fabric softener to keep the inside of the agitator cleaner. I also used Jubilee Kitchen Wax on the cabinet.
I got the same machine and I like the knob controls.
|Post# 956288 , Reply# 7   9/5/2017 at 15:05 (288 days old) by pumpkina (California)  || |
By hoses, do you mean the water supply line hoses, the drain pump hoses, or both?
I presume that anything rubber would need regular replacement. Does anyone replace belts as preventive maintenance?
|Post# 956312 , Reply# 8   9/5/2017 at 18:16 (288 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)  || |
Most washer manufactures suggest changing the hot and cold inlet hoses every 5 years, even t6hough these hoses have an expected life of 30 -50 years, they only suggest changing them so they can say [ we told you so ] just in case they fail.
All other rubber parts will last 25-50 years including the drain hose, the only exception is the drive belts in the TL washer and the dryers, these need replacement when they either fail or show signs of failure, this will range from 5-30 years.
|Post# 956314 , Reply# 9   9/5/2017 at 18:24 (288 days old) by rp2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)  || |
|Post# 956403 , Reply# 10   9/6/2017 at 11:46 (287 days old) by pumpkina (California)  || |
As to the 30-50 year life expectancy of water supply hoses, do you mean the water supply hoses that have steel braids, or the ones without steel braids?
I uses steel braided water hoses. I also turn off the water supply to the water supply hoses when I'm not using the washer to prevent any chance of those hoses exploding. Am I correct to presume that doing this will make my water supply hoses last almost indefinitely?
|Post# 956441 , Reply# 11   9/6/2017 at 18:16 (287 days old) by Frigilux (The Minnesota Prairie)  || |
Yeah, c'mon John; tell us what you think of stainless steel braided hoses!😈
pumpkina-- I also turn off the hot and cold faucets when laundry is finished. Cheapest insurance there is against a hose or inlet valve failure. The faucets on my lines require only a quarter-turn. Easy peasy.
|Post# 956448 , Reply# 12   9/6/2017 at 18:58 (287 days old) by pumpkina (California)  || |
My house and the laundry faucet are 1950s era with galvanized steel drain pipes. The laundry sink and water supply are integrated and they don't make these faucets any more. See attached photo, which makes the faucet look black, when in fact it's actually battleship gray.
In 2012, a retired contractor friend rebuilt the faucet, which then leaked, and warned that it would be unduly expensive to upgrade the faucet to a 21st Century set up.
That said, I have no leaks and have to turn both levers about 4-5 times to turn on and off the water to the washer.