Thread Number: 72318  /  Tag: Vintage Dishwashers
Potscrubber
[Down to Last]

automaticwasher.org's exclusive eBay Watch:
scroll >>> for more items
Post# 955902   9/3/2017 at 12:42 by Spacedogb (Lafayette, LA)        

Hey guys,
My neighbor put this dishwasher to the curb. She said it worked fine just upgraded. How well does it clean and are parts still avaliable for it?


  View Full Size



Post# 955908 , Reply# 1   9/3/2017 at 13:16 by potatochips (Nova Scotia)        

Parts should, like the pump seal, be readily available for many years.

As for cleaning? I've never experienced a Kitchen-Aid yet, but according to this forums memebers its second to it. I've had a lot of fun with the GE I have and it cleans very, very well.


Post# 955914 , Reply# 2   9/3/2017 at 13:42 by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        

toploader55's profile picture
Holy Crap !!!

Wait till Bob (appnut) sees this and Ken too.

I think this is one of the Holy Grail GE machines that can take the rust off a trailer hitch.

And is the Two Wash Arm machine ?

I'd grab it. Wee bit noisy, but a great performer. Rapid Advance and all...


Post# 955915 , Reply# 3   9/3/2017 at 13:47 by brucelucenta (Italy)        

This dishwasher is identical to one my parents had. It actually cleaned pretty well for a dishwasher without a full size spray arm under the top rack. It has the shower tower set up that GE had for many years. It is about an '81 vintage, since that was when they built the house.


Post# 955922 , Reply# 4   9/3/2017 at 14:04 by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture

That is a GSD1200,  the same one I had.  It cleans rust off a trailer hitch.  Multi-Orbit wash arm (changes water pattern over time as it continues to revolve).  I got mine May 1987 and mine had red lettering.  My mom got hers about a year or year and a half later and hers had the white lettering like this one.  I'd get it.  I think Kenmoreguy64 has one too.  He's one that's collected several so he will have parts to keep his going. I still miss mine.

 

Based upon the buttons pushed, the last cycle used was Energy Saver wash and heated dry. 

 

No, this doesn't have the little whirlybird wash arms at the end of the two arms.  That design came out mid-1990s. 


Post# 955923 , Reply# 5   9/3/2017 at 14:10 by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        

toploader55's profile picture
Bob, I meant did this machine have the full size arm under the Top Rack ?

I remembered they did that for only a year or two.


Post# 955924 , Reply# 6   9/3/2017 at 14:14 by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture

Eddie, that was only part of the PotScrubber II series and only the two TOL models--GSD1050 and GSD950.  And from the early to mid-1970s.  The first version of this GSD1200 had PotScrubber III emblazzened on the control panel and is immortalized with Debbbie Reynolds' magazine print ad campaign.  That was like 1980 or 1981.  The 1200 was the TOL until GE introduced the electronic control 2000 series. 


Post# 955930 , Reply# 7   9/3/2017 at 14:30 by brucelucenta (Italy)        

I just know that the one my parents had was about '81 or '82 vintage and did not have the "multi orbit" lower spray arm and no spray arm under the top rack. It looked just like this one on the outside. From what I remember, GE did make a model previous to this one which DID have a full size spray arm under the top rack for a short period of time. I have no idea why they stopped making it and went back to the shower tower, but they did that for several more years before finally making models with a full size spray arm under the top rack. This one had a visible timer dial and rapid advance timer.

Post# 955932 , Reply# 8   9/3/2017 at 14:34 by PassatDoc (Orange County, California)        

My parents had this one until replacing it with a KA about fifteen years ago. Cleaning action was satisfactory to good, nothing special.

Post# 955948 , Reply# 9   9/3/2017 at 16:04 by nmassman44 (Boston North Shore Massachusetts)        

nmassman44's profile picture
I had the Kenmore version of this dishwasher back in the 80's...Great machine and could clean anything thrown at it. This dishwasher does not have a wash arm under the upper rack. It uses a Power Tower that does clean rather well any items in that upper rack. This dishwasher holds a ton of dishes. The Super Upper rack is tiered and was by far the best upper rack I have ever had the pleasure of using in a dishwasher. Even the lower rack I did love. Even with the cut out for the tower, it held a lot vertically. I always loaded plates on the left side and pots and pans on the right side.
This dishwasher should have the MultiOrbit wash arm in the bottom that changes the wash pattern up. This dishwasher moves about 35 gallons a minute thru 13 total jets...7 in the bottom, 2 in the middle and 4 in the PowerShower on the top of the tank.
If these dishwashers were still made today I would have one.


Post# 955949 , Reply# 10   9/3/2017 at 16:15 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
GE Potscrubber DW From The Early 80s Till the early 90s

combo52's profile picture

With food filter and Multi-Orbit wash arm, these were by far the best performing DWs GE had ever built up to this point.

 

They still had a few serious flaws however, they did not have a spray arm under the top rack so the lower rack so the lower rack had to be loaded with some care if you wanted every thing to get clean in the top rack.

 

These DWs also had a very restricted lower rack which really limited capacity, and they used their crappy 1/6HP shaded pole motor that was also used in the cheap builder DWs that GE was famous for. These motors not only had a noisy fan and you could also hear the annoying sound of the motor speed varying as the pump was washing.

 

All that said these were pretty good DWs, and about every part you might need is still available except the timer and the program switch, but luckily these did not fail often.

 

John L.


Post# 955954 , Reply# 11   9/3/2017 at 17:25 by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture

Mike, I loaded exactly as you.  Dinner plates on left and pots/pans on the right lol. 


Post# 955961 , Reply# 12   9/3/2017 at 18:24 by Spacedogb (Lafayette, LA)        

Pics of the machine. I have since wiped it down and ran citric acid with cascade complete through it. I have a load of dishes in it right now.

  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 6         View Full Size
Post# 955964 , Reply# 13   9/3/2017 at 19:08 by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)        

toploader55's profile picture
I forgot Nate's Version of the Control Panel...

I used a 2800 on a Private Yacht I worked on back in the 80s. The 2800 cleaned really well.


Post# 955990 , Reply# 14   9/3/2017 at 21:15 by Spacedogb (Lafayette, LA)        
First impression

I'm not impressed with the Potscrubber at all. I loaded it with mostly clean dishes, I could hear the water swooshing around inside. Both top and bottom spray arms are turning freely. When I opened it up after potscrubber cycle. I found the dishes just as dirty as when they went inside.

Post# 955997 , Reply# 15   9/3/2017 at 22:15 by panthera (Rocky Mountains)        
Wow!

panthera's profile picture

These things can whoosh and move their arms when there is still a malfunction, so don't be discouraged.

First off, even Consumer Reports was forced to admit that these cleaned better than KitchenAid. We've had a few (and currently have one) and, quite honestly - they are the best dishwashers for cleaning dirty dishes on the American market.

Hands down. The Best.

Clean much better than any of our KitchenAids ever have.

 

Now, if you're interested, there's quite a bit of easy stuff you can do to make her work great again.

But - a warning: These are notorious for holding on to invisible slivers of broken glass in the sump and in the various filters. I suggest caution. If you like, I can post the most common things to clean out and check - none hard, none arduous, even if something were to be broken, it's all still available and cheap.

 

Let me know - this machine may be in a bad mood at the moment, but she's one of the best ever built and is the best at cleaning dirty dishes, period. The multi-orbital arm is so good, GE has 're-invented' it for their current top of the line series.


Post# 955998 , Reply# 16   9/3/2017 at 22:49 by Spacedogb (Lafayette, LA)        

Please post anything you can about it. I know I need to find 2 door springs cause the ones I have are rusted and I need new exterior insulation. Can't wait to get it going cause right now my Dish Drawers are washing circles around it.

Post# 956009 , Reply# 17   9/4/2017 at 03:48 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
Cleaning Problems With A GSD 1200 Style DW

combo52's profile picture

What type of soil is being left on the dishes ?

 

A good test of any DWs water distribution and mechanical cleaning ability is to put in along with a load of dishes several glasses with peanut butter smeared inside the glasses in various parts of the top rack including the corners, and see if it is all removed.

 

The most common problems with these DWs as they age are.

 

1 Under filling, usually a bad inlet valve [ water should cover the floor and be up to the main wash arm hub when fully filled for main wash. ]

 

2 Broken food chopper [ this was a very cheesy affair ] if this is not functioning water circulation will be very poor.

 

3 Drain valve in pump letting water leak past and then the DW looses water to soon, [ replace complete motor and pump, not a bad idea in any case to update pump and motor to newer style ]

 

4 Bad drain valve under filter screen in back of tank, remove and inspect, replace if deteriorated.

 

Overall these DWs can clean very well if loaded correctly, but they are nowhere as good as standard tub WP Power-Clean and KM Ultra-wash DWs from 1985-2007, see my post on my WP PC DW, and a typical load that is run several times a week for almost 30 years with hardly ever a problem.

 

John L.


Post# 956050 , Reply# 18   9/4/2017 at 09:16 by panthera (Rocky Mountains)        
Cleaning and repairing

panthera's profile picture

Actually, this dishwasher, with it's muti-orbital arm does a better job cleaning that anything else, but, heh - some of this is religion, so let's focus on what needs doing. I know it takes a big man to admit GE could do anything right compared to KA (and I'm the only person here who isn't in love with KA), so kudos to John.

 

So, John hit the high points. Here's what I'd do:

1) Check for the rather large sheet of paper tucked away (usually under the kick panel) with schematic, timer settings and instructions on how to remove and replace the sump, motor, filters, etc. If you have it, that's all you need to clean and check those areas. If you don't, the literature is in the library here. Without it, it's way too complicated.

2) Lots of little holes in the multi-orbital get filled with junk, and on some (not all!, dratted GE), you have to turn one tower of power mount the 'other' way to loosen it.

3) If the soft-food disposer is missing or thoroughly bound up with plastic or wire, it is a good idea to change it out. If the motor is long and black and there's no capacitor in sight, John's advice is good if you want to make this a daily driver. If it's kind of square and grey with a capacitor (especially if it says "SIEMENS" on it, just the rebuild kit will do fine.

4) There's a little valve at the back, under that large filter which can get gunked up. Cleaning it will make an enormous difference in performance as it lets the dirty water out. Or, if it fails, keeps it recirculating.

5) Super caution is called for when fishing through that sump. The filter is big enough to keep a VW Microbus out as one aficionado here has mentioned, but not much else - and slivers of glass are a serious danger.

6) The inner door comes off easily and make cleaning fast and easy. The two black (sometimes grey) pieces of more or less pliable rubber at the bottom corners of the door lift out for cleaning, too.\

7) Two sounds to listen for:

a) Close the soap door and run the machine. Does it open (you'll hear it)?

b) When it drains, is there a solid 'thump' and water drains out with a lot of force? If it's only a weak stream, then you've got blockage or the pump needs replacing. If there's no thump, then either a spring has come off the solenoid package for the drain or the solenoid has failed.

 

The door springs were used on models both before and after this one, you can grab them at any repair shop or clean them up a bit. Exterior insulation can wait until the rest works great. It must not block airflow, but was pretty extensive, you can see photos of it in our archives. Virtually all parts are available either at online appliance shops or can be had from other GE Dishwashers, including the ones of this series still on sale, new.

 

If you do have to replace the water inlet valve, make sure you don't disturb the overflow protection system. It's easy to pull out of position (kind of the point). Cleaning that whole assembly can't hurt, either, but pay attention to how the heating element is held by that stainless steel strap first, it's non-intuitive (or, I'm too D-U-M to get it right without pictures).

 

Hope this helps. Best dishwasher there is.


Post# 956061 , Reply# 19   9/4/2017 at 10:04 by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture

I wish I could be there with you and the dishwasher.  I could stand next to it while it's running and know pretty quickly what it's not doing correctly and why. 

 

I hadn't noticed the woodgrain look on a portion of the panel.  That might mean it's older than my 1987.  On mine, where your cycle button says Heavy Soil and Normal Soil, mine was designated Normal Soil and Light Soil. 


Post# 956080 , Reply# 20   9/4/2017 at 11:51 by Spacedogb (Lafayette, LA)        
Something in the lower arm

There is definitely something in the ends of the lower wash arm. I have included pics of that and the control panel.

  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 10         View Full Size
Post# 956090 , Reply# 21   9/4/2017 at 12:26 by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture

Oh yeah, that will definitely effect cleaning performance.  I never had anything like that show up in my wash arms.  Hopefully someone here can give you suggestions to get that debris cleared out. 


Post# 956092 , Reply# 22   9/4/2017 at 12:40 by Spacedogb (Lafayette, LA)        
Lower arm won't unscrew

I found a thread on here that said turn wash tower nut counter clockwise. Unfortunately mine will not budge.

Post# 956151 , Reply# 23   9/4/2017 at 18:35 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
Removing the lower wash arm

combo52's profile picture
You unscrew the base of the pop up tower from the top of the WA, then take out a Phillips screw and lift the WA up and out.

It looks like you have holes in the bottom of the wash arm, often on GE DWs with plastic wash arms when heat dry is used a lot the arms do this, the holes will diffidently affect washing pressure and often causes water to leak out from under the door.

Either replace the WA or patch it in a creative way.

John L.


Post# 956156 , Reply# 24   9/4/2017 at 18:47 by Spacedogb (Lafayette, LA)        

Just tried to unscrew again. It will not budge. Also checked for holes and didn't find any. I included a pic of where I am trying to unscrew. Can someone please tell me if it's the right place?

  View Full Size
Post# 956171 , Reply# 25   9/4/2017 at 21:27 by nmassman44 (Boston North Shore Massachusetts)        

nmassman44's profile picture
I will bet you that you have crap right on the water inlet screen of the pump inside the sump. It looks like you may have to take the sump cover off and have a look/see. You also have crap behind that passive filter in the back of the tank. If the check valve is working properly, you should see a clear/clean screen since all the soil gets held in the storage tank below the filter. If that piston doesn't seat or move to close the opening, there will not be enough water pressure to force the soil out of the dishwasher. Your arm looks like some crap got pulled into the pump and that had to make quite a bit of noise when it happened. As others suggested here is very good advice.

Post# 956172 , Reply# 26   9/4/2017 at 21:28 by panthera (Rocky Mountains)        
Where your finger is pointing

panthera's profile picture
Is where it unscrews- the 'wrong' way, as you noted. It's frequently very tight. Try holding the arm with one hand and then turn the part you're pointing at s if you were TIGHTENING it. It will eventually loosen. Someday.
There's a Phillips screw (regular way) in the middle which loves to fall into the pump, so careful. Be sure you don't lose the nylon fitting it sits in.


Post# 956180 , Reply# 27   9/4/2017 at 21:51 by Spacedogb (Lafayette, LA)        
Finally

Got the arm off!!! Found a piece of bone and broken glass inside the spray arm. Am I correct to understand that it had to travel through the pump to get there? Also included a pic of the arm where the to halves attach. Does mine appear to be leaking? Also included a pic of the black spotty film everywhere.

  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 4         View Full Size
Post# 956183 , Reply# 28   9/4/2017 at 22:25 by Spacedogb (Lafayette, LA)        
Self cleaning filter

Took out self cleaning filter and noticed 2 things. First the inside of the filter was filthy. Second something was blocking the little flap at bottom of filter from closing. The gray piece found blocking the filter flap is the tag of a dish towel and part of the dish towel 😳

  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 3         View Full Size
Post# 956186 , Reply# 29   9/4/2017 at 22:27 by panthera (Rocky Mountains)        
Probably not leaking

panthera's profile picture

Yes, it went through the pump. Probably didn't hurt the pump, though.

That black stuff is icky. Chlorine bleach is your friend.

Oh, side note - you have the 900 Watt heating element. If it fails, the 500 Watt is the standard replacement and it does fit, regardless of what the local yokal dealers will tell you. GE was already using both at that time, I've done two replacements with the 500 Watt so, yup - it will work.

There is a fuse in a little black box not too far from the heating element contacts. That blows sometimes for no reason, stopping the element from working. You might check that if it's out. In the potscrubber cycle, if the input water for the wash is coming in at 125F, you can expect it to rise above 135F by the end of the cycle and roughly the same for any input temperature - about 10F. The 500 Watt element will keep the temperature of the water and raise it a little bit.

I'm so glad you got the beast loose. When you put it back on, be sure not to damage the thin brownish/reddish ring at the bottom of the spray arm - it's a gasket and paper thin. Don't bother tightening the arm more than just barely finger tight - it tightens (as you have seen) over time all by itself.


Post# 956252 , Reply# 30   9/5/2017 at 11:51 by chetlaham (United States)        
One of the best

Dishwashers ever made! I am with Panthera, these could clean and then some. Forget what the GE haters say, it was only the BOLs that tainted the legacy.


Personally I would change the pump and sump boot. The new pump is much quieter, and the smaller sump reduces carry over dramatically increasing washing and rinsing performance. With some care this will feel and perform like a new modern machine out of the box- except with a much faster cycle time.

Let me know if you are doing so, I can post the parts.


Post# 956294 , Reply# 31   9/5/2017 at 16:17 by Spacedogb (Lafayette, LA)        

Just started messing with the GE again. When the dishwasher is off and empty should the plunger for the self cleaning filter be closed or open? When in drain mode water flows into the dishwasher when in drain mode and even more comes in when I push up and down on the tip of the plunger.

Thanks




This post was last edited 09/05/2017 at 15:55
Post# 956298 , Reply# 32   9/5/2017 at 16:39 by johnb300m (Chicago)        
plunger

johnb300m's profile picture
The filter plunger should be OPEN when the machine is Washing, and Off.
It should ONLY be closed when the machine in pumping to drain.

If that plunger is deteriorated in any way, you will want a new one.
The filter performance with a new plunger will be night and day.

Good luck!


Post# 956302 , Reply# 33   9/5/2017 at 17:06 by panthera (Rocky Mountains)        
John Answered the question. Is an easy fix.

panthera's profile picture

I suggest you clean the sump first, no point loosening more debris after all your hard work on the valve.


Post# 956307 , Reply# 34   9/5/2017 at 17:18 by Spacedogb (Lafayette, LA)        






Video of solenoid. Anyone know of a part number to this solenoid.


Post# 956310 , Reply# 35   9/5/2017 at 18:11 by panthera (Rocky Mountains)        
It's #WD24X10018

panthera's profile picture

It's about $11.00 plus shipping new at the site in the link. Just remember - plastic, so no force or it will, of course snap off on you.

Super easy.

Oh - since there's no electro-mechanical actuator, technically it's not a solenoid. As to 'self-cleaning', well, yeah, back when detergents had chlorine bleach, phosphates and enzymes and we washed with really hot water, they were......



CLICK HERE TO GO TO panthera's LINK

Post# 956347 , Reply# 36   9/5/2017 at 23:24 by Dustin92 (Jackson, MI)        

I wouldn't be terribly surprised if it just doesn't clean the way you are expecting it to. We had a newer version of this style machine for 12 years, and from day 1 it had issues washing dishes that were already clean. Granted, it had no filters, but still. If any trace of food went in on a single dish, it would come out ground up and splattered over all the dishes. Cups and glasses in the top rack always had crud in the indents on the bottom. We thoroughly hated that dishwasher. We have had a Kenmore Ultra wash, and a Maytag Jetclean since, soon to be on to #3, a Bosch, and none have ever left anything on the dishes.

Post# 956379 , Reply# 37   9/6/2017 at 08:14 by panthera (Rocky Mountains)        
Dustin,

panthera's profile picture

1) CR rated this system BEST - even better than KA for cleaning.

2) No filters? Seriously, dude?

 

Maybe you got stuck with one of the BOL pieces of 'builder grade' rubbish GE/Hotpoint (still) sells. They're as comparable to this as a rusted out YUGO is to a 1956 Belaire.

 

Sheesh.

 

 


Post# 956450 , Reply# 38   9/6/2017 at 19:06 by super32 (Blackstone Massachusetts)        

super32's profile picture
I had a 2800 from about 92' til about 95', largely based on CU recommendations at the time even though i had Maytag on the brain. I loved all the lights and glitter but it did not clean very well. I frequently had issues as some others have mentioned here. We were going to remodel the kitchen and keep the 2800 for the new kitchen since its was only about 3yrs old. Well needless to say it didnt make it to the new kitchen because the pump took a dump. I didnt even think of replacing the pump because i was not real happy with it in the first place. It was replaced by the illusive Maytag Intellisense, but dont even get me started on that thing either. :/

Post# 956485 , Reply# 39   9/7/2017 at 02:24 by chetlaham (United States)        

@Dustin

Apples to oranges. Late 90s early 2000s Pot-scrubbers have nothing to do with this dishwasher. Those machines were pure trash in ever sense of the word. They had zero fine filtration, greatly reduced water charge, fewer water change outs on the normal cycle, a static wash arm with only a few large holes placed mostly near the tips and a spray arm hub that limited the GPM to compensate for the reduced fills. These were simply builder and landlord machines trying to meet energy requirements on top of that.

Longevity was horrible too- 1980s perma-tuff GE's easily lasted over 30 years, the ones from the late 90s/00s would either lose the timer, pump seal or solenoid shaft seal in 5 to 10. Can't tell you how many (really ever single one) of those I've seen in the scrap pile with the drain solenoid bracket absolutely rusted or calcified beyond recognition.


Post# 956501 , Reply# 40   9/7/2017 at 08:11 by panthera (Rocky Mountains)        
That's a valid point -

panthera's profile picture

Because my interest in GE dishwashers pretty much ends in the era when they were better than KA (I can *feel* the frisson of frustrated anger that raises in the knee-jerk 'KA is BEST!' crowd everytime Consumer Reports said that or one of us echoes it...) I forget just how awful their performance in the 6σ era was/is. Dear Jack Welch - has anyone ever done so much harm to a once high-quality company?

 

So, yeah - I can believe someone hit with the low water version of that era would be unhappy. The GE Potscrubber cleans so well, in so little time, because it uses water. To pre-wash. To wash. To rinse. Yes, to rinse. To expect a GE dishwasher which had been designed to clean with lots of water to then clean with little water is just plain hopeless. Add to this the continuous reductions in phosphates in detergents of that era and the lack of good enzymes/other surfactants, well - too many factors are against clean dishes.

 

Back, however, to this beautiful machine - it does clean best of all dishwashers of its era, which, of course, means it cleans rings around the current two drops of water and four hours later - you can take out the dirty dishes.

 

I love that display - reminds me of late 1970's MIELE Dishwashers and laundry equipment.

 

 


Post# 956566 , Reply# 41   9/7/2017 at 19:31 by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        
I'll add my 2 cents worth

ken's profile picture
Our 1995 1200 Potscrubber has always been an excellent performer. Nothing ever comes out dirty. I did some needed maintenance on it a few years ago which included a new pump, sump, door gasket, upper wash arm supply hose, new inlet valve and new drain valve. I decided Id rather go that route and keep it going rather than replacing with a new machine. A full cycle is finished in 45 minutes.

Post# 956576 , Reply# 42   9/7/2017 at 20:27 by chetlaham (United States)        

@Ken: I think the OP should go that route. Good chance the mracelator is broken, grate and impeller might be fudged up from pushing glass into the wash arm and a nice new sump will make for a heck of a lot better rinsing- assuming the old one has not turned to clay from the high temps that result from 150*F inlet and a potscrubber cycle that keeps the heater going. But hey, that makes for some nice cleaning :) And unlike the 90s drama, the timers, heater and other parts kept running well past the expiration date. I am grateful you decided to keep your Potsrubber running. I'd give anything for GE to make a 2017 version of this machine.

@Panthera: Jack destroyed an empire. GE finally said lets be the best in the 80s, only to have that go through their nose in the 90s. Very sad.





Forum Index:       Other Forums:                      



Comes to the Rescue!

The Discuss-o-Mat has stopped, buzzer is sounding!!!
If you would like to reply to this thread please log-in...

Discuss-O-MAT Log-In



New Members
Click Here To Sign Up.



                     


automaticwasher.org home
Discuss-o-Mat Forums
Vintage Brochures, Service and Owners Manuals
Fun Vintage Washer Ephemera
See It Wash!
Video Downloads
Audio Downloads
Picture of the Day
Patent of the Day
Photos of our Collections
The Old Aberdeen Farm
Vintage Service Manuals
Vintage washer/dryer/dishwasher to sell?
Technical/service questions?
Looking for Parts?
Website related questions?
Digital Millennium Copyright Act Policy
Our Privacy Policy