Thread Number: 72396
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Whirlpool top load washer model number problem |
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Post# 956756 , Reply# 1   9/9/2017 at 11:23 (2,413 days old) by felix1stv (Boston Mass)   |   | |
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could just be a brocken wire on the wigwag........ |
Post# 956759 , Reply# 2   9/9/2017 at 11:54 (2,413 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806)   |   | |
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Post# 956770 , Reply# 4   9/9/2017 at 13:38 (2,413 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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looking through the back access panel.....of the wigwag, the one on the left controls spin/neutral cam bar, the one on the right turns on agitation when pushed in one direction, and drain in the other.....this wigwag oscillates back and forth whenever the motor is running....the plungers should lift or drop accordingly into the cam bars causing the shift
set machine for normal cycle and lowest water level...as the level is reached, motor comes on, agitation should begin..... is the wigwag moving back and forth? did the right cam slide back?.....in looking straight through at the cam, at the far front of the tranny, there is a rod sticking up, and the cam slides through, it should also be lifting up or down to engage agitation... or did the machine just drain? and the same thing for the spin.....advance the timer to the 'spin' portion.... right cam should slide....the left solenoid should have activated to slide the cam to engage the spin.....is any of this happening?... this vid might help some.....as in this one, the plunger is broken... |
Post# 956774 , Reply# 5   9/9/2017 at 13:51 (2,413 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Post# 956792 , Reply# 7   9/9/2017 at 15:48 (2,413 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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well, were on the right track so far......
and chances are, from your checking of the wiring and plugs, either that side of the wigwag is not functioning, or the plunger is not working.... sometimes on that plunger, the pin going through the cam bar can break off, again, not allowing it to engage.....just want to make sure its still there.... not always easy to check as one person, if you can, have a friend open and close the lid, and watch if the plunger is making any movement.... and as far as the wigwag, you have to replace it as a whole....just remember to draw yourself a diagram or take a pic of which wires go on which side.... keep us posted as to how you make out.... |
Post# 956810 , Reply# 10   9/9/2017 at 17:10 (2,413 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Post# 956812 , Reply# 11   9/9/2017 at 17:29 (2,413 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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the machine has to be running....in other words, timer set to actual spin and pulled out, lid closed...that wigwag has to be moving in order for anything to happen....
that solenoid wont activate any other way.... Glenn is correct as well.....the pressure switch and timer may be causing issues.... you checked continuity, but is there actual power coming down to that solenoid?... well, another test for the wigwag.....since you have agitation, I would flip the wires on the wigwag, just to see if spin solenoid activates.....even if for a few seconds of operation......set it to drain to allow the cam to slide out of agitation first....then switch wires....and set timer back to wash.... this goes without saying to unplug the machine while switching wires..... |
Post# 956836 , Reply# 13   9/9/2017 at 21:56 (2,413 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Post# 956886 , Reply# 14   9/10/2017 at 07:40 (2,413 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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yeah, that's sort of the pros and cons of the pressure switch....the machine must be filled to a certain amount for agitation, and lowered to a certain level in order for spin to take place....
this was just a test, but factor in of when each wire can be activated... but in any case, seems we got your machine to agitate and spin when required....sounds like your terminals are dirty or not making a good tight contact..... |
Post# 956899 , Reply# 15   9/10/2017 at 09:43 (2,412 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)   |   | |
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But that agitator - we have one in use - is one of the best ever made, by anyone. It can be maddeningly hard to track down parts for even modern appliances, much less vintage ones. I've got a 'go-to' list of newer appliance model numbers I use when I have to deal with idiot computers or even less flexible in-duh-vi-duals. It's the only solution I've ever found which works, apart from asking the wonderful people here for help. Need a shift gate for a 2016 GMC or Chevy Truck? No problem. Need one for 2006? The ***+++###@@@ behind the counter here in Cheyenne won't even look - they don't carry parts for vehicles that old. Never mind that it's the same part in production until last year, complete with the clear notation that it works in the 2006 vehicle. My go-to appliance parts store in town got a new dude recently. He won't even look for parts for anything older than 2007. Ever. Refuses, flat out. Sigh. Thank the gods for Amazon and Ebay. |