Thread Number: 72474  /  Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Miele w1918 washer leaking
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Post# 957715   9/15/2017 at 21:47 by Enduring (Iowa)        

I just picked up a Miele w1918 of Craigslist. It was going to be a parts machine. But I'm trying to set it up to function as a 3rd machine in my home. It has a small leak that I think I've located. Actually 2 leaks. One is the hose that goes from the dispenser assembly, and the other is leaking from the sprayers within the dispenser assembly. I can't find a schematic of the parts for this machine. I'd like to replace the hose. On Gardenweb I was informed that the intake valve is leaking, causing the dripping within the dispenser area. Several say that with the machine having sat for 3 years, using it might help free it up.

I'd like to know what that hose is called and the part number so I can order it. When I go to eBay I don't see anything lik it. I'd be appreciative of good online parts stores too.

This machine looks like my other machine on the panel, except it only goes to 170fdegrees instead of 190f. Any info on that point would welcomed too.

Thanks


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Post# 957721 , Reply# 1   9/15/2017 at 22:54 by RevvinKevin (Between Mickey Mouse & the Queen Mary (So. Cal.)        

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HI, nice machines!

Try calling Miele at 1 (866) 694-5851 and order the part through them. That's what I did for the shocks I bought for my 1926 washer.

Good luck!

Kevin


Post# 957751 , Reply# 2   9/16/2017 at 10:27 by enduring (Iowa)        

thanks revvinkevin. I just called and of course they are closed on the weekend, so I left a message. I'll be happy if they actually call me on monday. I will check with Miele to verify the part I need.

Question, about the cold water valve 3081319, related to the dispenser leaking from above. It is probably that cold water intake valve, correct??? On Gardenweb there was a comment that it might loosen up with use, since the machine has sat unused for 3 years. The cold water inlet, where the filler hose connects, did have some grains embedded into the plastic filter. The machine itself wasn't bad, as far as cleanliness. Can I take the valve off the electric connections and clean it up?


Post# 957952 , Reply# 3   9/18/2017 at 01:03 by RichNZ (New Zealand)        
Does the water drip with the power off?

Is it dripping on the main wash, prewash or softener outlets?

If the water drips when the power is off there may be debris in the valve which you could clean out.


Post# 958428 , Reply# 4   9/21/2017 at 09:06 by bewitched (Italy)        

The code should be 3182800. you can easily find it on ebay here in europe. it costs around 50€.

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Post# 958521 , Reply# 5   9/21/2017 at 22:14 by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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Post# 958688 , Reply# 6   9/23/2017 at 06:43 by enduring (Iowa)        

RichNZ, yes the water drips in the soap dispensor when the power is off. The only time it doesn't is when the water is shut down. I tried cleaning the solenoid valve by running LimeAway into the hose and let is slowly drip through the solenoid, under water pressure. But it did not work after 20 minutes of this, and running several loads since then.

Bewitched, thanks for that information. I have one on order and looking forward to getting that installed. I did make a temporary fix that is working. I had my family doubters though. I cleaned the hose well around the cracking. I used double sided 3M brand tape, (for afixing auto trim to the outside of cars). I figured it would be water proof, so I did a couple of wraps with that around each fold that was cracked. Then I wrapped the whole area with Teflon tape. The Teflon probably didn't do anything other than cover the area and maybe apply some pressure so the tape wouldn't unseal. My pictures show the Teflon tape only around one sealed crack. Ultimately I wrapped that whole area with Teflon to look tidy. It doesn't leak!



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Post# 958690 , Reply# 7   9/23/2017 at 06:49 by enduring (Iowa)        

Asko, that is the one I actually bought. Funny, I bought it before I saw your link, lol. Its on its way.

Now I have another question about the solenoid. Can I buy one off ebay from europe, and it will fit my USA water hoses? here is the one I was looking at on Ebay:


CLICK HERE TO GO TO enduring's LINK on eBay


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Post# 958697 , Reply# 8   9/23/2017 at 10:44 by bewitched (Italy)        

I think the problem is not if the hose will fit on an european valve, i think ours are powered at 220v and yours run on another voltage. if the voltage is the same then you can replace the entire assembly with an european model.

Post# 958757 , Reply# 9   9/23/2017 at 16:31 by enduring (Iowa)        

Bewitched, mine is a 220v, or is it 240v. The w1918 is a 220v or 240v. I don't understand voltage, so I can't be sure which it is 220 or 240. Is there another voltage in Europe? Sometimes I see something about a 208voltage on electrical things, but I don't even know what that means.

Here is a link to a used solenoid on Ebay with the same part number as mine. But its used, and I would prefer new.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO enduring's LINK on eBay


Post# 958762 , Reply# 10   9/23/2017 at 16:42 by enduring (Iowa)        

Here is my part number for the solenoid valve on my machine:
3801391


Post# 958765 , Reply# 11   9/23/2017 at 17:28 by RevvinKevin (Between Mickey Mouse & the Queen Mary (So. Cal.)        

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Barbara, since you have your machine opened up, look at some of the components inside, like look closely at the inlet valves, drain pump motor, etc.  Just because the machine has needs to be plugged into a 220V circuit, does NOT mean everything inside it uses 220V power.   The 220V is mainly for the heating elements.

 

I bought a W1926 washer back in April and at first the pump was not working.  When I removed it to inspect, stamped right on it was "120V".   After all, each half of the 220V power your washer plugs into, is 120V.   SO... before you order those European valves, check yours or check the wiring diagram to confirm what power they need.


Post# 958775 , Reply# 12   9/23/2017 at 18:08 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Miele washing machines prior to the 3XXX series sold in USA

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Are *NOT* pure 208v-240v machines.

Rather just like American dryers that use electricity for heating are 120v/208v-240v power (four or three prong "dryer" plug).

As posted above not all components inside the washer run on "220v" power, and yes a bulk of the high wattage goes for the heaters which are 2x 1500 watts (IIRC).


Post# 958820 , Reply# 13   9/23/2017 at 23:03 by foraloysius (Groningen, the Netherlands)        

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Officially European power is 230 Volts, but probably varies between 220 - 240 Volts.

Post# 958879 , Reply# 14   9/24/2017 at 10:07 by enduring (Iowa)        

thanks Kevin, Laundress, and Foraloysius. I have this picture of the drain pump, but it is working fine to my knowledge. The full number on the item is #261102. is this the part number? Can you tell from this number if it is 220 or 110 voltage? I am having a tough time googling this part and coming up with any information.

Kevin if I were to inspect the insides, can I tip the machine on its side to get view from bottom? I had a terrible time seeing anything with my phone/camera when I was exploring from the open front panel.




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Post# 958969 , Reply# 15   9/25/2017 at 04:45 by enduring (Iowa)        

Here is my machine manual. These notes might provide information about the voltage, since it is referenced. Do the notes make sense to anyone? I can guess the one is the serial number. Would that very top note be the date? The previous owner was Eastern European, and some of the notes written might be slightly different from what is typically seen in the US.

I can look into the solenoid later this evening when I get home from work, to see if I can find the voltage listed on the part.

Thanks.


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Post# 958990 , Reply# 16   9/25/2017 at 06:14 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
That is just the electrical and other information

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Copied down from the serial plate inside washer.

120v/240v at 60hz you already knew. That is the standard electric "dryer" connection for USA, but in this case it is for a washer.

fredsappliance.com/service/3-pro...





The 2800 watts just gives total amount of power for the heating elements.


Post# 959060 , Reply# 17   9/25/2017 at 16:12 by Enduring (Iowa)        

Miele parts department couldn't find the serial number of my machine. I'll call it "the Wisconsin machine". After 3 try's with 2 different people. That's weird. Miele did say that the w1918 takes a 240 volt cold water intake valve. Part # 03801391, for $254.21, before s&h. That's a lot more than the one in the link I posted above.

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Post# 959066 , Reply# 18   9/25/2017 at 16:53 by Enduring (Iowa)        

Thanks launderess for the very straight forward video.

Post# 959087 , Reply# 19   9/25/2017 at 18:24 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Key word to understand in part link posted above

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The cheaper solenoid is listed as "compatible", but not genuine original Miele spare. Sort of the difference between purchasing an FSP/Whirlpool part or some other generic spare part.

There is a whole world of after market parts for a wide range of European appliances on offer on that side of pond. You can ask anyone who owns a Miele appliance (including oneself) and they will tell you spares and call out charges are dear. Unlike in North America where Miele has a lock on genuine spares, there is a huge DIY following in Europe and people often looking to save some money go with non-genuine/OEM spares.

Miele naturally will tell you they cannot guarantee these aftermarket parts will perform the same and or have equal quality as their own, but they would, wouldn't they?

To best of one's knowledge Miele techs here will *NOT* install generic parts, however could be wrong. Miele techs will install OEM parts you've purchased elsewhere (I've done it) long as they are "sealed" and "new". Believe only under such conditions does MIeleUSA offer a warranty (such as it is) for parts and the call out work.

After market spares parts in Europe range from excellent/good to average or poor. Qualtex and a few others IIRC have spares that meet or exceed OEM specifications and thus are a good way to go. Indeed for some models of appliances aftermarket is the only way to go as manufactures no longer are making/stocking original spares. Well that and finding someone with NOS lying about.


Post# 959089 , Reply# 20   9/25/2017 at 18:31 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Miele and serial numbers for older laundry appliances

launderess's profile picture
It isn't uncommon for Miele techs to be unable to find any information regarding serial numbers from older units (W7XX, W10XX, w19XX), indeed no history exists for mine (W1070) prior to our purchasing and the several repairs over past years.

Miele started selling appliances in USA back in the 1980's or maybe 1990's (not sure), and from what one has been given to understand changes in computer systems/record keeping meant many early units simply aren't in system. Though they do say reaching out to Miele in Germany may turn up something.

Other thing to remember is for most of Miele's early history in USA their laundry appliances were simply European machines with certain modifications to make them work in USA (120v/60hz power). Inside many of the parts are often pretty much the same as their European cousins. This means if you can find the matching European machine (W1918 was 918 in Germany IIRC), often finding parts in Europe is easier.


Post# 959129 , Reply# 21   9/25/2017 at 21:37 by Enduring (Iowa)        

Launderess, great info. Thank you so much for all your input. Thanks for the info on the spares options. I'll check them out.

Post# 959133 , Reply# 22   9/25/2017 at 21:50 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Sometimes it pays to have the good fish (as the French say)

launderess's profile picture
Others not so much.

Have priced getting Miele parts sent from Europe to USA and sometimes after shipping, VAT and so forth there isn't that much difference. Then there are subtle things that end consumers might not know, but techs do.

When had the suspension serviced on my machine it required new springs and "handle". Well one thought springs were springs and handles were handles. Miele tech told then showed me that was not the case. The latter at least vary between those at front versus back of unit. Thank goodness didn't order ones saw from Germany.

Just so you know the 19xx series of washing machines have reached their "shelf life" far as Miele guaranteeing to keep parts in stock (20 years after model ends IIRC). So unless am mistaken the only parts for this series in the USA warehouse or otherwise on these shores are it; nothing more will be ordered from Germany.

For parts that are also used on other later washing machines this isn't a huge issue. But things specific to a particular unit (7xx, 10xx, 19xx) series are a different matter. For instance the motor for my washer is now NLA, as are various other parts.

While exhausting if one has a parts list or numbers calling Miele parts department will tell if something is in stock, and how many are left. MieleUSA parts can also tell if the thing can be or is being reordered to replenish stock.

Finally in case you had any ideas in that direction, calling Miele Canada or Mexico to obtain parts won't work. Each division of Miele North America is contractually forbidden to sell/send parts out of their own particular country. Once tried to get Miele Canada to send something from Persil that was out of stock in USA, they wouldn't and told me why they couldn't.


Post# 960967 , Reply# 23   10/6/2017 at 16:40 by enduring (Iowa)        

Thanks again Launderess. I just ordered the shockingly expensive water valve from Miele for my Wisconsin machine. Part number 3801391. Cost me $255.21 and then the expensive shipping at $22.80. I went with Miele instead of an off brand from the internet. When I communicated with one seller from Europe, they couldn't answer my questions satisfactorily, and said their valve wouldn't work on my USA machine, because it is the wrong voltage. I don't know about that.

But I have ordered from Miele so it will work. But I don't get a warranty because I'm not an authorized Miele tech, lol.


Post# 961039 , Reply# 24   10/7/2017 at 01:28 by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Voltage

launderess's profile picture
For what it is worth the pump and other parts on my Miele washer are 120v not 220v.

Ironically the electronic control module (which is from France or at least made their according to markings) is also 120v.

Again for these older 120v/220v washers and dryers sold in North America Miele made some internal changes. IIRC things are still like that for the new pure 120v washers, but instead Miele puts small transformers inside to step-up voltage where needed.

Think of your new part as an investment. With proper care that machine should last a few more decades. If and or when things do come to the worst, make sure you salvage every part possible before sending machine to rubbish. That includes the "new" water valve. Where do you think all those spare but used parts for Mile washers being sold in Europe or elsewhere come from?

As for the European parts dealers, one shouldn't be to hard on them; most are only used to dealing with their local market.


Post# 961119 , Reply# 25   10/7/2017 at 12:28 by enduring (Iowa)        

Launderess, this machine was actually bought to be a parts machine for my other 1918, lol. I ended up thinking that I should get it going too. I received my soap dispenser hose, that I bought from the UK, and I plan on putting that in place today. The patch that I used on the original has been holding its own very well so far.

The water valve will be here next week I presume.


Post# 961120 , Reply# 26   10/7/2017 at 12:30 by enduring (Iowa)        

Great advise Launderess about saving the parts from the machines. I have been planning to do just that. I love these machines.




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