Thread Number: 72633  /  Tag: Ranges, Stoves, Ovens
Compact 30 (lights no heat?)
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Post# 959639   9/28/2017 at 15:26 by arnoldra (Gibsonville)        

Hey all, new to the forum and looking for some help. I have a Frigidaire Compact 30 that is original to my kitchen (love it) and after a little elbow grease and broken wire fixing it has been a champ.

Two days ago I went to turn on a burner and the indicator light came on for hot surface, but the burner won't heat up. In fact, none of the burners nor the oven element heat up. Everything else works fine, timer, lights, etc. I checked for thrown breaker(s). Any thoughts? Am I missing something simple?

I appreciate any help or insight anyone can offer as I really want to fix it and not lose this great vintage machine!





Post# 959651 , Reply# 1   9/28/2017 at 15:57 by rp2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        

rp2813's profile picture

Your stove may have blown its own fuse -- if it has one.  Others here who are familiar with your make may be able to advise one way or the other and where it's located.

 

It sounds like the 120v parts still work, but the 240v side of things is kaput.


Post# 959758 , Reply# 2   9/29/2017 at 00:16 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        

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You lost one of the hot supply lines, I would check the junction box where the ranges supply cable connects to your house wiring. If you find no faulty connection there test across the incoming red and black wires for 240 volts.

 

There are no fuses in your range that affect any of the heating elements,

 

John L.


Post# 959947 , Reply# 3   9/30/2017 at 17:55 by arnoldra (Gibsonville)        

Thanks for input, I swing by hardware and picked up a multimeter today, I haven't had time to pull the range out (its a drop in) to check the hookup. Will hopefully get to that in the next day or so. Thanks again for help!

Post# 962452 , Reply# 4   10/14/2017 at 09:58 by arnoldra (Gibsonville)        
not the supply to the range...

So I checked the junction box down in behind the range, I've got both legs coming in at 120v, so the issue is not the supply coming to the range. Gotta be something inside the range. I checked where the tail comes into the range, and there is no connection there, just straight wires. They go right and straight up to the front under the control panel.

Anyone know if there is a module or switch or something that they run to? That's an end of the unit I've never take apart, and even looking at it am not to sure how to get in there.

As always, any thoughts and help are greatly appreciated.


Post# 962456 , Reply# 5   10/14/2017 at 10:06 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
Still could be a power supply problem

combo52's profile picture
Question, is there 240 volts between the two hot 120 volt wires?

If there is open up the control panel and you will find a burned-loose connection where the incoming power wires connect to the range components.


Post# 962466 , Reply# 6   10/14/2017 at 10:34 by arnoldra (Gibsonville)        

Yup, I have 240v between the two hot wires. Undaunted, and with the ultimate power of a screwdriver, I dove into the control panel and figured out how to remove it all. Below is what I discovered.

Poking with a finger, nobody appears to be loose where the supply lines come into the screw terminals, but as you can see there is some 'blackening' present.


  View Full Size
Post# 962490 , Reply# 7   10/14/2017 at 14:21 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        

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I think you will find that there is a wire burned loose on the left black terminal post

Post# 962492 , Reply# 8   10/14/2017 at 14:26 by arnoldra (Gibsonville)        

There was a loose one on the left post, but then I did some tugging as well as poking and found the red wire burned in two just below where the wires come into the control panel area, with a whole bunch of scorched insulation. I fixed both broke wires, put it all back together (took longer to figure out how to take it all apart than anything) and then discovered that the right rear burner is now dead.

Figured it was something I did, rechecked everything, and checked voltage on both leads going into that burner when on and I have 120v on both wires. That would be a dead coil right?

Thanks for all input, I really appreciate everyone's help.


Post# 962503 , Reply# 9   10/14/2017 at 14:55 by speedqueen (Harrison Twp, Michigan)        

Put the multi-meter on the resistance setting and with one wire disconnected from the coil put it in series w/ the coil and check for continuity.

Post# 962533 , Reply# 10   10/14/2017 at 15:58 by sudsmaster (East of SF, West of Eden, California)        

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I have a Compact 30 and had to replace one of the burner controls. I was a bit surprised at how all that old cloth covered wiring is squeezed into the small space of the control panel, with a lot of it in contact with metal. I didn't see any signs of shorts or arcing, but it's something I keep in mind if the range starts acting up. And I take extra care to make sure no liquids are spilled in that area. I guess the range was designed and built in an era where it was acceptable that a price be paid for a smaller than traditional form factor.





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